Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 109 - AVS Forum
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post #3241 of 3305 Old 05-07-2013, 03:27 PM
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This is what a lot of people are missing this big , day and night difference. I noticed that same thing on my D6500. Default movie mode was way too red/pink giving this warmish redish tint to the entire picture and shadows were bluish purple. After calibration it just looks fantastic. I love watching Tin Tin on it. It has incredible pop in the bright/daylight scenes , not to mention vivid accurate colors. It truely is a refrence disk.
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post #3242 of 3305 Old 05-08-2013, 01:52 PM
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My red was too orange and the gray scale was awful, way too much red in the high RGB and way too much blue in the low RGB. Once the Gray scale and gamma were set it improved the set 1000x. Then when the correct colors were dialed in I was gobsmacked what I had been missing out on.

I was always a bit sceptical about people stating the difference as night and day but it truely is smile.gif

I also agree with you about TinTin, a very high quality transfer.

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post #3243 of 3305 Old 05-08-2013, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buttonsw View Post

My red was too orange and the gray scale was awful, way too much red in the high RGB and way too much blue in the low RGB. Once the Gray scale and gamma were set it improved the set 1000x. Then when the correct colors were dialed in I was gobsmacked what I had been missing out on.

I was always a bit sceptical about people stating the difference as night and day but it truely is smile.gif

I also agree with you about TinTin, a very high quality transfer.

Once you go accurate, you never go back, switch to Normal or Standard I should say and you can definately tell it's too blue, specially in the skin tones and shadows. Doesn't look as natural as movie mode .
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post #3244 of 3305 Old 05-12-2013, 10:05 AM
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Just a quick question to either Zoyd or Larry, I've calibrated my D8K to 34 Ftl which is quite bright at night with the lights off, can I just drop the Cell light a few notches or will that mess with the Calibration? As far as I remember the Cell light only adjusts the Luminance so It shouldn't mess with the colours?

Cheers

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post #3245 of 3305 Old 05-12-2013, 11:10 AM
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If I remember correctly the Cell Light won't effect your calibration but changing the contrast will. I would leave cell light at max, this has been mentioned many times before but having Cell Light at 20 or Max is the best place to set it . It has something to do with the panel putting out maximum brightness when the ABL kicks in. I would adjust contrast, and re do the calibration if i were you. wink.gif
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post #3246 of 3305 Old 05-12-2013, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by hungro View Post

If I remember correctly the Cell Light won't effect your calibration but changing the contrast will. I would leave cell light at max, this has been mentioned many times before but having Cell Light at 20 or Max is the best place to set it . It has something to do with the panel putting out maximum brightness when the ABL kicks in. I would adjust contrast, and re do the calibration if i were you. wink.gif

Thanks Hungro, I'm happy generally with the Calibration at 34ftL but wouldn't mind just notching down the cell a few notches when watching in a completely dark room, it's probably only about 20% of the time so as long as the Calibration isn't screwed I'll do that.

Thanks Again smile.gif

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post #3247 of 3305 Old 05-13-2013, 07:31 PM
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So my pn64d7000 died on me a few weeks back, looks like it overheated and killed the board that houses the inputs. I had the screen flushed mounted to the wall which was possibly the culprit.

Got the tv repaired, fast forward a few weeks and I've been playing with the settings. I've tested several of the calibrations minus the really detailed adjustments and double checked them with my blu ray tuning disk. I can't put my finger on it, but I feel like the picture appears softer and not as sharp as before, usually with tv (I have Comcast). I've tossed in some good 1080p blu ray material and its better but for some reason I feel like they tv has lost some of its detail.

I'm not sure why I notice this, not sure if its just a mental thing as they tv had to be repaired or b/c I've been watching alot of led LCD tvs.

Any thoughts on what I could be missing or a setting that is off? The tv says its getting 1080i at 60hz from the cable box.

Many thanks.

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post #3248 of 3305 Old 05-13-2013, 07:44 PM
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I forgot to mention I have not updated the firmware on the tv and I'm not sure if the repair shop did it or not.

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post #3249 of 3305 Old 05-30-2013, 03:58 AM
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I have had to subscribe here as I have used one of the calibrations for my 46D8000 from the first page of this thread.

The one used is right at the bottom of the calibration list - the others were tried but they were nowhere as good as the personal calibration I made and have used since I got the D8000 over a year ago.

When I looked at the calibration, before changing the D8000 to it, I was not too keen on the suggested 49 colour and 53-56 brightness or the -3 flesh tone; and Gamma -1... I thought, are you kidding?

It just seemed like a disaster and I almost didn't do it at all.

This calibration * update 05/24/2012 Reflects adjustments based on calibrating to color checker patterns left me stunned.

My D8000 is not going to be the same D8000 the calibration was done on, so I had to shift colour to 54, and even then, there was nowhere near the colour shift I had expected.

When I looked at the 10pt Intervals with all those negative values on every one except the first two, all I thought was what a complete joke this was going to be.

First thing I did was Lord of the Rings on Blu-ray - and by that I mean the Extended Edition with the "Peter Jackson *new colour technique". It just never looked right, but I was not going to change it when everything else was good.

Suddenly, Middle Earth looked exactly how I think it should look. I get why Peter Jackson did that change to the colour.
And shadow detail - I just could not believe it. It was inky black, but there was much more than twice as much detail than I could ever get out of the D8000 than I thought was possible without stripping depth and colour out of it completely and flattening it out.

I have one word for this calibration; if my calibration (at the end of this post) works for your D8000, then this new calibration is going to seriously make your day.

This calibration is highly, highly, highly recommended if you have just the right D8000 in comparison to my own calibration. It just makes everything look exactly how it should look no matter how much you'd like to think it should look like anything else that LCD is supposed to do - that is, give light output and oodles of colour.
You think when you first try it that it isn't right, and then you watch LOTR Extended Edition and are simply knocked on your ass.

I am simply stunned by this calibration - I have a new kind of D8000 that is not supposed to be able to do this.

And the greyscale makes my previous one look like I should go see an Optician pronto.
It's perfect. It almost sparkles when I have a black and white photo on the screen - which doesn't even make sense, I know. But it does; it sparkles.

Dear zoyd, I THANK YOU SO VERY VERY MUCH.


---

My own personal calibration I use is this (using HDMI/DVI):

Movie
14
87
45
0
50
50/50

Warm2
Gamma +1

Colour Space - Custom
51 0 2
5 57 0
0 1 64
53 55 0
0 56 58
52 0 57

WB
26
25
23
26
25
12

10P
0 0 0
0 0 0
-1 0 -1
-1 0 0
-1 0 1
-2 0 1
1 0 0
1 0 0
0 0 -4
0 0 -10
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post #3250 of 3305 Old 05-30-2013, 11:56 AM
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As long as you're happy, that's great!

We do however make it a point here to warn people to balance their expectations when copying calibrations or trying to do it by eye, which in both cases is highly unlikely to get you anywhere near a proper calibration. These sets vary so widely that it's impossible to judge a calibration by the 10 point values, which is why it's generally pointless to copy them since they are so set-specific. The best advice for D-series plasma owners without meters is to stick with the settings which are common amongst all the calibrations posted here, but leave 10pt off, color on auto and maybe play with 2pt white balance if you're so inclined (Larry has posted a technique).
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post #3251 of 3305 Old 05-30-2013, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

As long as you're happy, that's great!

We do however make it a point here to warn people to balance their expectations when copying calibrations or trying to do it by eye, which in both cases is highly unlikely to get you anywhere near a proper calibration. These sets vary so widely that it's impossible to judge a calibration by the 10 point values, which is why it's generally pointless to copy them since they are so set-specific. The best advice for D-series plasma owners without meters is to stick with the settings which are common amongst all the calibrations posted here, but leave 10pt off, color on auto and maybe play with 2pt white balance if you're so inclined (Larry has posted a technique).

Like I said, if my previous calibration produces good results on anyone's D8000 (46-51"), then it's likely this calibration will.

In other words, my calibration working on your D8000 very well would mean that they have similar characteristics, so it would follow that this calibration will.

I still can't quite believe what this calibration from zoyd is doing to my D8000. You know the film Alien: Requiem on Blu-ray, that film is an absolute darkened mess on my calibration. I can't see anything, it's just so dark with no shadow detail; yet with this new calibration from this thread, well... it's now a film I would watch. It's been collecting dust ever since I bought it (it's a pretty good film).

And the colour blue is better than I thought my D8000 would ever achieve from my own calibration. It's just incredible.

zoyd's calibration just happens to turn my D8000 into a new display I never knew existed, so if anyone gets very good results from my calibration, head straight to zoyd's without hesitation.

I've settled with 53 brightness, gamma -1 and 54 colour - it's balanced to be all things in daylight and night time.

I also did not know that 10p effects the greyscale in terms of shadow detail and black or grey - I thought it was only colour. Very surprised about that.
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post #3252 of 3305 Old 05-30-2013, 02:15 PM
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And the most bizarre thing about this, because I didn't realise, is I have the 46D8000 LCD - not a Plasma.

I have used 51D8000 Plasma settings from zoyd for my 46D8000 LCD.

Maybe other 46D8000 LCD owners should try this out...
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post #3253 of 3305 Old 05-30-2013, 02:23 PM
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Sorry, I'm having difficulty following because none of your posts have made clear what you consider to be a "calibration", or how it's being performed.
In this thread, we would only refer to settings as a "calibration" if in fact they were based on measurements.

If you're experiencing crushed shadows, then a simple run through a good test disc like AVS HD 709 should correct that for the most part, along with a tweak in gamma depending on your viewing conditions.

A fan of the Alien series, but not so much AVP, if that's what you're referring to. wink.gif
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post #3254 of 3305 Old 05-30-2013, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCracknell View Post

And the most bizarre thing about this, because I didn't realise, is I have the 46D8000 LCD - not a Plasma.

I have used 51D8000 Plasma settings from zoyd for my 46D8000 LCD.

Maybe other 46D8000 LCD owners should try this out...

It's great that you're happy but it's 100% pure luck. Sharing settings between sets is dicey enough, and between models (and in this case technologies!) really is a waste of time. But good for you that you ended up with a picture that you like. Just please don't use the word 'calibration". What you're doing isn't even remotely related.

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.
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post #3255 of 3305 Old 05-30-2013, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by willieconway View Post

It's great that you're happy but it's 100% pure luck. Sharing settings between sets is dicey enough, and between models (and in this case technologies!) really is a waste of time. But good for you that you ended up with a picture that you like. Just please don't use the word 'calibration". What you're doing isn't even remotely related.

I would reset your Movie Mode to defaults and use a set up disk like GCD or AVS 709HD to set up your basic picture settings ie: Contrast , Brightness, Color/Tint, Sharpness and turn off any enhancements like dynamic contrast, black tone. Do not touch 2pt white balance or 10 point. That is my suggestion smile.gif, there is no harm in copying settings but there is no gaurantee that it's close to accurate. In order to calibrate requires a use of a accurate meter, end of story.
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post #3256 of 3305 Old 06-19-2013, 10:51 AM
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I'm curious: have any D7000 owners measured black levels over time? CNET did an article showing a rise from 500 to 900 hours. I'm currently at 740 hours and don't see any change but if it's gradual, I doubt that I would (by eye). My meter isn't accurate at these levels.

And a follow-up question: in the CNET article Katzmaier writes that a recalibration can bring back the original black level. Any idea what he means? Simply adjusting Brightness and maybe rechecking/readjusting gamma?

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.
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post #3257 of 3305 Old 06-19-2013, 02:04 PM
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Willie,

I have well over 2000 hours on my 64D7000 and the MLL has been consistent at 0.0075 to 0.008 ftL. My meter is accurate down to a bit below 0.005 ftL.

Larry
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post #3258 of 3305 Old 06-19-2013, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Willie,

I have well over 2000 hours on my 64D7000 and the MLL has been consistent at 0.0075 to 0.008 ftL. My meter is accurate down to a bit below 0.005 ftL.

Larry

Thanks, Larry. Your MLL matches Katzmaier's post-rise MLL. Perhaps his initial lower reading was a fluke or maybe it varies between sets. Anyway, I was just curious since I can't measure my own set.

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.
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post #3259 of 3305 Old 06-19-2013, 03:11 PM
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Willie,

Keep in mind that for this series the MLL is greater for the smaller size panels. If I remember correctly, the MLL for the 51 inch D7000/D8000 is about 0.012 to 0.015 ftL.

Larry
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post #3260 of 3305 Old 06-19-2013, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Willie,

Keep in mind that for this series the MLL is greater for the smaller size panels. If I remember correctly, the MLL for the 51 inch D7000/D8000 is about 0.012 to 0.015 ftL.

Larry

Yup, I thought of that. His reading actually goes the other way unless I'm completely misunderstanding. He got 0.0061 at 500 hours and 0.0083 at 900 hours.

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.
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post #3261 of 3305 Old 06-19-2013, 03:40 PM
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Willie,

I'm afraid that now I am lost. What long term testing did cnet do on the Samsung D series? Link?

Larry
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post #3262 of 3305 Old 06-19-2013, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Willie,

I'm afraid that now I am lost. What long term testing did cnet do on the Samsung D series? Link?

Larry


Also in my original post (#3256): http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20085475-1/long-term-plasma-tv-tests-show-color-black-level-changes-but-no-major-issues-yet/

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.
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post #3263 of 3305 Old 06-19-2013, 04:27 PM
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Oh, that ridiculous article.

He took three measurements on a D8000 and two on a D7000. Then he assumed a trend. That is just nonsense.

Even worse he then stated that the apparent rise in MLL was not in fact a rise at all. He forgot to readjust the Brightness control before taking the last measurement on the D8000. When he did, he concluded that there really was no change at all.

Such a bunch of rubbish.

Larry
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post #3264 of 3305 Old 06-19-2013, 06:42 PM
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No need to hold back wink.gif

So on your set MLL has been constant. I also haven't seen a rise mentioned anywhere else. Thanks!

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.
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post #3265 of 3305 Old 06-19-2013, 07:02 PM
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Hi willie,

That's right, there has been no evidence of mll rise in either samsung or panasonic displays beginning with the 2011 models. My own D8000 (51") has about 2500 hours and hasn't budged from it's tweaked 0.007 ftL level.
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post #3266 of 3305 Old 06-21-2013, 07:25 PM
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.008 ftL on my 57D7000 with ~800 hours.

smile.gif
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post #3267 of 3305 Old 07-09-2013, 05:50 AM
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Figured I'd ask in here since the official thread has been dormant for awhile.

Has anyone noticed cracking forming inside the plastic trim around their PN64? I've owned this set since 2011 and its just started happening now. Ill take some pictures when I get home later, but its INSIDE the plastic frame. You can run your nail across the front and back and not feel the crack, it seems to be inside the plastic. On my set its in the trim at the lower right of the TV, and is affecting about a 4" section of the plastic trim. It was 3" but this morning when I looked it seems to have grown. Is this a known issue that Samsung is aware of. I was thinking of calling Samsung but since the TV is out of warranty I'm not sure they'd even do anything about it.
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post #3268 of 3305 Old 07-09-2013, 06:11 AM
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Haven't seen any reports of that - but the clear trim is most likely acrylic (nice looking, but cheap). This material has a tendency to form stress fractures for a variety of reasons. Frequent cleaning is a common contributor to ESC, which could be your problem, but accelerated aging as a result of heat (while not above the service temperature of acrylic, these sets do get hot) and maybe the presence of a small crack or craze when the set was manufactured could just as easily be it. Unfortunately, once the crazing begins, it tends to accelerate the effects of environmental attack.

Wouldn't waste my time with Samsung CS.
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post #3269 of 3305 Old 07-09-2013, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

Haven't seen any reports of that - but the clear trim is most likely acrylic (nice looking, but cheap). This material has a tendency to form stress fractures for a variety of reasons. Frequent cleaning is a common contributor to ESC, which could be your problem, but accelerated aging as a result of heat (while not above the service temperature of acrylic, these sets do get hot) and maybe the presence of a small crack or craze when the set was manufactured could just as easily be it. Unfortunately, once the crazing begins, it tends to accelerate the effects of environmental attack.

Wouldn't waste my time with Samsung CS.

I don't clean the bezel with anything other than an occasional swiffer dusting every once in awhile. Could it be a coincidence that this internal cracking started after I got my new SVS subwoofer?
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post #3270 of 3305 Old 07-09-2013, 06:37 AM
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That seems unlikely to me. Unfortunately, you'll have to live with it regardless (there's simply no substitute for a good sub wink.gif).
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