Originally Posted by LarryInRI
Funny you should ask. Yes, on June 28th I did another calibration on my 64D7000 using a lower cell light, a higher contrast, and a gamma of 0 instead of +1.I still maintain that settings from the D8000 should not be used for the D7000.
Thanks so much, Larry! I've been lurking at this forum ever since I got my first plasma set, and I was really excited to come across this thread when I upgraded this week. I was even more excited to see that one calibration-sharing member (you!) had the exact set I picked up, since I opted for the D7000 instead of the D8000. Really appreciate you sharing your results.
Our set will end up in a room that is very bright during the daytime thanks to two large windows with white blinds and full windowed door, so hopefully this will work out well.
Currently halfway through a 100-hour break-in at the moment. My first plasma was a Panasonic (late 2006), and I did no break-in on it and noticed a lot of really annoying IR after about 6 to 8 months. Thanks to the "marching ants" issue I had, I got the set replaced with a new model year Panasonic in February 2008. The IR was so annoying on my first set that I did a 200 hour break-in on the new one just to be absolutely certain things were settled in well, and I have never even noticed the first hint of IR. (consequently, my parents got a 42" Panasonic plasma in 2006 when I got my 50" and never ran any break-in on theirs. When I went over to their house last Christmas, I could very clearly see that the picture was dimmer in the center portion of the screen and brighter on each side. Looks like lots of SD content caught up with them, but they don't seem to have noticed so I didn't point it out to them).
This time around, I have company over about 96 hours into getting the set hooked up and playing the break-in disc, so I wanted to try and increase the break-in results a bit. I set my brightness, contrast, and cell light to their maxes and have been letting it run. I had read here previously (though it was back in 2008) that running at full brightness would help break-in better, but the negative was that if your DVD stopped looping, you might end up with really bad IR from the DVD stand-by screen if you didn't catch that it had stopped. Not a problem here, but the screen is very warm and I'm not sure how I feel about that. I haven't noticed any peeling of the RBF that folks have mentioned (knock on wood), but I'm worried I'll be pushing my luck letting it run straight for another 40+ hours. After reading about the ABL and APL from you (which was all new info to me), do you think it would be smart to dial back the brightness, etc. during the last half of the break-in? Or does it even really matter, and I shouldn't worrying about changing anything until I'm ready to sit down and actually view some real content this weekend?