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#1 ·
Rather than have people post calibration settings in the general owner's thread where they'll get buried, I figured I'd start a new thread specifically for calibration settings. I figure it makes sense to have people post their settings for both the D7000 & D8000 models since they essentially use the same panel. If anyone tries any of the settings that are posted here, please report back. It will be interesting to see how well the settings transfer between individual sets and sizes.


My PN64D8000 was calibrated by Gregg Loewen from Lion AV. He did a great job and kept me informed about what he was doing every step of the way. The gray-scale and colors ended up spot on.


Here are the settings that I ended up with after the calibration. I've also attached the before and after charts for reference.

Edit: I replaced my settings with the latest collaborative table that shows my settings along with settings from zoyd, cue03, and LarryInRI

TiVoHDzoydcue03LarryInRI
64D800051D800064D800064D7000
ModeMovieMovieMovieMovie
Peak White30ftL27.8ftL
Cell Light20152015
Contrast96809580
Brightness54545366
Sharpness0050
Color50505044
Tint50/5050/5050/5048/52
Black Toneoffoffoff
Dynamicoffoffoff
gamma-1-1-10
RGB Onlyoff
Flesh Tone000
Edge Enhanceoffoffoff
Motion Lightoffoffoff
xvYccoffoffoff
Color Tonewarm2warm2warm2
Digital Noiseoffoffoff
mpeg Noiseoffoffoff
Color Space
Red_r48394336
Red_g66650
Red_b65550
Green_r20201460
Green_g54505050
Green_b36120
Blue_r31340
Blue_g33020
Blue_b50414750
Yellow_r53514850
Yellow_g53515050
Yellow_b6752
Cyan_r17181520
Cyan_g52484946
Cyan_b52485146
Magenta_r47414440
Magenta_g8663
Magenta_b57484847
White Balance
r-offset26222528
g-offset25262522
b-offset22252522
r-gain13302528
g-gain25252524
b-gain29273024
10-point
r10-110
g10-100
b10011
r202-40
g201-30
b202-40
r31010
g30010
b30-200
r40100
g40010
b40-11-1
r5002-1
g51120
b52-331
r6-201-1
g60010
b60121
r71100
g72100
b72200
r8-2-1-10
g800-10
b801-10
r90-100
g92-100
b9-21-10
r100110
g102000
b10-23-30
 
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1
#529 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/0


Huttala,


Reduce the red, green, and blue levels by the same amount in the #8 interval of the 10 point adjustment. This will increase the gamma in that interval. Sometimes when you get near the bright whites, you may find that adjusting the interval one lower works better. For example, to adjust the 80% point, you may need to use the 7th interval.


Larry

Thanks alot!! Now my gamma curve is straight at 2.2! And delta e is under 2-3 from 20-100 ire aswell.


The picture is amazing, even tho it feels a little dark, guess im used to to high brightness.
 
#530 ·
Hi all ...


So i have used all the calibrated settings in this thread and i must say, that the Samsung UE55D8005 Edge Led has an overall better PQ than the PS59D7005 ...


I replaced the UE55D8005 for the PS59D7005 because the UE55D8005 had alot of clouding, but i would have kept the UE55D8005 if i knew that this Plasma had a yellow tint to it and horrible white levels ... It´s like the whites are greyish especially when the PC is connected and a browser is open. Looks terrible :0(


I cant seem to get rid of this yellow tint this plasma has. No matter what settings i throw at it, the yellow tint is there. Is there anyone else in here, that are experiencing "Greyish whites" and "Yellow tint" ?


Regards :0)
 
#531 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSleeper /forum/post/20619777


Hi all ...


So i have used all the calibrated settings in this thread and i must say, that the Samsung UE55D8005 Edge Led has an overall better PQ than the PS59D7005 ...


I replaced the UE55D8005 for the PS59D7005 because the UE55D8005 had alot of clouding, but i would have kept the UE55D8005 if i knew that this Plasma had a yellow tint to it and horrible white levels ... It´s like the whites are greyish especially when the PC is connected and a browser is open. Looks terrible :0(


I cant seem to get rid of this yellow tint this plasma has. No matter what settings i throw at it, the yellow tint is there. Is there anyone else in here, that are experiencing "Greyish whites" and "Yellow tint" ?


Regards :0)


Plasmas can not reproduce the vibrant white that you see on LCD tvs. It's inherent in the way they work. Here's a quote from a review of a Panasonic plasma tv:


Just as plasmas sometimes have a hard time with maintaining a consistent black level, there's also the frequent problem of maintaining a consistent white level. Most plasmas will dim their peak brightness as the amount of white on the screen decreases. The thing is, plasmas get hot, and a white pixel is the hottest of them all. If every pixel was producing its brightest possible output, the whole TV might melt. Who knows? It could be apocalypse. Anyway, it doesn't do that. The whites get dimmer, as you can see in the chart below


Link: http://www.televisioninfo.com/conten...and-Whites.htm


It's a tradeoff that you have to decide upon. There are positives and negatives for both LCD and plasma tvs. Neither ones can do everything perfectly. I'm ok, with the white dimming, I don't watch anything that has a lot of white color in it. I'm much more interested in the vivid color and inky black that my PN64D8000 can reproduce. I don't have any issues with the yellow tint.
 
#532 ·
I recently did a calibration on my Samsung using an eye one display. I am by no means a pro, but I did see an improvement in my picture after i calibreated it. Below are my settings. I want to upload my calibration files, but it says it's an invalid file. it's from the HCFR software. Any ideas how i could upload this? Thanks in advance



PICTURE- MOVIE

CELL LIGHT- 13

CONTRAST- 95

BRIGHTNESS- 55

SHARPNESS- 45 (20 FOR BLU-RAY)

COLOR- 55

TINT- 51/49

BLACK TONE -OFF

DYNAMIC CONTRAST- OFF

GAMMA- 0

COLOR SPACE- CUSTOM

RED- 60,40,35

GREEN- 75,55,23

BLUE- 35,0,68

YELLOW- 40,42,37

CYAN- 90,45,44

MAGENTA- 65,20,50

COLOR TONE-WARM 2

DIGITALNOISE- AUTO

MPEG NOISE- AUTO

HDMI BLACK LEVEL - LOW

FILM MODE- AUTO 1 OR CS

RED OFFSET- 34

GREEN OFFSET- 25

BLUE OFFSET-23

RED GAIN 35

GREEN GAIN- 25

BLUE GAIN-36


10 PT.

INT. 1- 0,0,1

INT.2- -1,0,0

INT. 3- -1,1,-1

INT. 4- 0,0,-1

INT.5- 3,2,0

INT.6 - 1,0,-1

INT.7 1,1,-2

INT.8- 2,2,-3

INT.9- 2,1,-4

INT. 10- 4,1,-5
 
#533 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by NJPapi1977 /forum/post/20611463


Dynamic is like spray painting the screen. It is horrible with crushed blacks and looks like a kids finger paint.


Warm 2 is the best by far. It needs to grow on your eyes. Right now your eyes are use to fake color paints. Give it time and you will learn to appreciate the accuracy and detail that Warm 2 offers.


Many try it and turn it off the next day. That is not what should be done.

When I use Warm 2 (along with the other LarryInRI settings) on my D7000 it makes the whites look almost yellow... like a really off-white color.


Am I so used to a poor setup that I don't realize what color "white" is supposed to be? If I were to hold up a piece of printer paper next to the screen, the paper is definitely more "white"....
 
#534 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by scud133 /forum/post/20621802


When I use Warm 2 (along with the other LarryInRI settings) on my D7000 it makes the whites look almost yellow... like a really off-white color.


Am I so used to a poor setup that I don't realize what color "white" is supposed to be? If I were to hold up a piece of printer paper next to the screen, the paper is definitely more "white"....

The chance of someone else settings dialing in perfect on your set is very unlikely. You need to have your set calibrated.
 
#535 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by scud133 /forum/post/20621802


When I use Warm 2 (along with the other LarryInRI settings) on my D7000 it makes the whites look almost yellow... like a really off-white color.


Am I so used to a poor setup that I don't realize what color "white" is supposed to be? If I were to hold up a piece of printer paper next to the screen, the paper is definitely more "white"....


Typical printer paper is loaded with blue fluorescent dyes. A better comparison method is to use a pile of talcum powder as a reference. If your whites still look yellow then my settings will not work for your TV. (I have expressed doubt about sharing D7000 settings a number of times in this thread.)


Larry
 
#536 ·
Please forgive me for being off topic, but I need advice. I want a 64D7000 my wife wants a led un60d6400 because the whites look whiter and brighter in the stores. I like the blacker blacks of the plasma. After calibration of the d7000 do the whites equal the whites of the led?
 
#537 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrobnett /forum/post/0


Please forgive me for being off topic, but I need advice. I want a 64D7000 my wife wants a led un60d6400 because the whites look whiter and brighter in the stores. I like the blacker blacks of the plasma. After calibration of the d7000 do the whites equal the whites of the led?

Not quite... Whites are always tough for plasma
 
#539 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/20625867


After calibration, the whites of an LCD and the whites of a plasma are identical. If they are not, the calibrations were done incorrectly.


Larry

Are you saying that i can make Fullscreen whites on my Plasma looks just as vivid and bright as on a Edge Led ? (now they are greyish when displaying whites in fullscreen)


With at calibration ...


:0)
 
#541 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSleeper
Are you saying that i can make Fullscreen whites on my Plasma looks just as vivid and bright as on a Edge Led ? (now they are greyish when displaying whites in fullscreen)


With at calibration ...


:0)
And why do you care about full-screen whites? A properly calibrated plasma at recommended peak white output will have the same color of white as a properly calibrated lcd. 99% of the whites in normal broadcast and movie material will appear exactly the same on either of these displays.
 
#543 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/20629506


zoyd,


On my D7000, I find that ABL kicks in at about 35 ftL. If I remember correctly, you found the same on your D8000.


Larry

yes but that depends on pattern. A better measure is when ABL kicks in as a function of APL. I've found that when set for peak white of 30 ftL that ABL kicks in on the D8000 above an average video level of 53% (gamma = 2.2). APLs of this level are not common, most daylight material I've tested runs between 30-40%. If you calibrate for 40 ftL (or god forbid, higher), that level will decrease to the point where it could affect normal material, but I just don't agree with people who think that kind of brightness level is necessary unless they live in a solarium in which case they should stick with lcd's.
 
#545 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd /forum/post/20629610


yes but that depends on pattern. A better measure is when ABL kicks in as a function of APL. I've found that when set for peak white of 30 ftL that ABL kicks in on the D8000 above an average video level of 53% (gamma = 2.2). APLs of this level are not common, most daylight material I've tested runs between 30-40%. If you calibrate for 40 ftL (or god forbid, higher), that level will decrease to the point where it could affect normal material, but I just don't agree with people who think that kind of brightness level is necessary unless they live in a solarium in which case they should stick with lcd's.


zoyd,


I read your discussion on HDJ about the experiments that you performed. (Nice work, BTW.) I don't remember what method you used to set the peak white level? I think it was with the large APL pattern but I can't seem to be able to find it now to confirm.


Quite a while ago I remember seeing other measurements of average video levels for movies where it was only about 15%.


I think the problem that TheSleeper and others are having is that they are viewing these sets in a store environment and looking at displays that are being pushed to the point where the ABL kicks in. You know -- the look-at-me marketing technique.



Larry
 
#546 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/0


zoyd,


On my D7000, I find that ABL kicks in at about 35 ftL. If I remember correctly, you found the same on your D8000.


Larry

I've been playing with the settings to try to minimize ABL from kicking in and out so often, but have not found the right combination. It appears to be more of a function of the mix of patters and colors on the screen than anything else (a screen with many small patterns or objects has less propensity to kick in ABL than a screen with few and big patters.) Does any of the calibrations in page 1 prevent/minimize ABL?


Thanks,

Durny1
 
#547 ·
Durny,


Simply put, the automatic brightness limiter (ABL) is triggered when the average picture level (APL) exceeds some value. That value is hard wired in the TV. All plasmas use some sort of ABL.


There are no settings to defeat the ABL in the Samsung. Actually, I don't know that you would want to do so since the heat generated by the screen is a direct function of the APL. You don't want to melt your panel, right?



If you've got your TV hooked up to a computer, you can see where APL occurs by displaying a small very bright white box and gradually making the box larger and larger until the brightness of the white starts to dim a bit.



Larry
 
#548 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/20630775


Durny,


Simply put, the automatic brightness limiter (ABL) is triggered when the average picture level (APL) exceeds some value. That value is hard wired in the TV. All plasmas use some sort of ABL.


There are no settings to defeat the ABL in the Samsung. Actually, I don't know that you would want to do so since the heat generated by the screen is a direct function of the APL. You don't want to melt your panel, right?



If you've got your TV hooked up to a computer, you can see where APL occurs by displaying a small very bright white box and gradually making the box larger and larger until the brightness of the white starts to dim a bit.



Larry

Larry, have you changed any of your settings or are they still the same?
 
#549 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/0


Durny,


Simply put, the automatic brightness limiter (ABL) is triggered when the average picture level (APL) exceeds some value. That value is hard wired in the TV. All plasmas use some sort of ABL.


There are no settings to defeat the ABL in the Samsung. Actually, I don't know that you would want to do so since the heat generated by the screen is a direct function of the APL. You don't want to melt your panel, right?



If you've got your TV hooked up to a computer, you can see where APL occurs by displaying a small very bright white box and gradually making the box larger and larger until the brightness of the white starts to dim a bit.


Larry

Thanks for taking the time to respond, Larry. But maybe something else then is going on; the effect seems to me more a result of relative change rather than a result of APL. With parameters all off (i.e. Dynamic Contrast, Eco stuff, etc. ) and Brightness/Contrast/Cell Light dialed down, the fluctuation still occurs. In some cases I can predict when it is going to happen, such as when people's faces in the foreground slowly pan into the picture.


Durny1
 
#550 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/20630609


zoyd,


I read your discussion on HDJ about the experiments that you performed. (Nice work, BTW.) I don't remember what method you used to set the peak white level? I think it was with the large APL pattern but I can't seem to be able to find it now to confirm.


Quite a while ago I remember seeing other measurements of average video levels for movies where it was only about 15%.


I think the problem that TheSleeper and others are having is that they are viewing these sets in a store environment and looking at displays that are being pushed to the point where the ABL kicks in. You know -- the look-at-me marketing technique.



Larry

That's right, I used the large APL patterns. Movies do tend to be at lower video levels but probably above 15%. I measured the opening of Blade Runner and that ranged between 10-15%. By the way if you want to try this it's easy with the i1pro and HCFR. Fix your i1pro on a tripod and display a full screen 50% pattern. Move the i1pro away from the screen until you see the signal fall off and then move it back slightly to recover. This will be 6-8 feet away depending on screen size. The i1pro is now sampling a large area of your display where you can measure APL. Play the movie and record the luminance values using the free measures histogram plot. Convert luminance to video level using the gamma for your display assuming you are below the ABL threshold.
 
#551 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Durny1 /forum/post/20631074


Thanks for taking the time to respond, Larry. But maybe something else then is going on; the effect seems to me more a result of relative change rather than a result of APL. With parameters all off (i.e. Dynamic Contrast, Eco stuff, etc. ) and Brightness/Contrast/Cell Light dialed down, the fluctuation still occurs. In some cases I can predict when it is going to happen, such as when people's faces in the foreground slowly pan into the picture.


Durny1

The only time you should see any level shifting (gamma shifting) should be either at high APL (brightness limiter) or going from typical to low (or vice versa) APLs. Here is a plot from a thread on HDJ showing the "stable gamma" range on my D8000 with cell 20, contrast 70 and gamma=2.2

 
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