Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 3305 Old 08-13-2011, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post


Thanks,

Those are the factory defaults. It looks like they were left untouched when the calibration was done.

Larry

Thanks Larry, I am going to follow up with Chad who did my calibration. Is there a reason why they would not have been adjusted?
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post #812 of 3305 Old 08-13-2011, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by R3ddlight View Post

Your just like me, I usually upgrade to a tv every 2 years. I think you already got me on positive side to get it isf calibrate. Now I'm just waiting for my break in period. Still searching for a isf certified in my area. I'm live in the twin cites of MN. What are the price quote for a isf calibration? Thanks a bunch.

Just google hdtvbychadb. He does tours to MN, definitely the calibrator to get since it services our area. Just be patient, it took 2 months to have it done, but worth the wait. The price was fair to me since it's not only science but also the art of the calibrator.

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post #813 of 3305 Old 08-13-2011, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bajanjack View Post

Thanks Larry, I am going to follow up with Chad who did my calibration. Is there a reason why they would not have been adjusted?


Whatever Chad did, he certainly corrected the color gamut. The attachment is a snip from the calibration report that you posted. The left one is pre-cal and the right one is post-cal. You can see how the color dots (the TV) are brought into the squares (the specification.) The slightly off spec cyan is typical for the D7000.

Larry
LL
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post #814 of 3305 Old 08-13-2011, 07:32 PM
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Hey guys, can anyone tell me how to set the peak white setting? I've searched and found nothing..
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post #815 of 3305 Old 08-13-2011, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Nkon View Post

Hey guys, can anyone tell me how to set the peak white setting? I've searched and found nothing..


Download and burn the AVSHD calibration disk here. Download the manual here.

Adjust the peak brightness so that level 234 or higher flashes on the white clipping screen. This is described on pages 4 and 5 in the manual.


Larry
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post #816 of 3305 Old 08-13-2011, 08:17 PM
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Hey guys, I'm a noob to the pn51D8000. I have only had my set on for about 7 hours (awesome btw). I followed the calibration settings on page one and the picture looks unbelievable.

Question: what is this "break-in" period that everyone is talking about? Should I not have used calibration settings just yet? Also, how do I adjust the peak white setting (sorry, I know I've asked this twice already). And is there anything else I should know? This is my first plasma, and I know the basic regarding IR... just want to know if there is any specific to this set I should know.
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post #817 of 3305 Old 08-13-2011, 08:33 PM
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Nkon,

Michael TLV, an ISF/THX video instructor, uses this method for setting peak level.

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Originally Posted by Michael TLV View Post

Greetings

Contrast rules ...

1. No clipping (See all the way to 254-255 ... or best you can do with display)
2. No discoloration ... or color shifting. Near whites look pink or yellow or something not gray for instance.
3. Eye fatigue considerations. (Usually not a big deal when dealing with projectors since they tend to be not as bright most of the time versus too bright) Rule of thumb is ... if it hurts your eyes ... the contrast is too high. (Turn down iris first if applicable before turning contrast down.) This is not about setting it to some specific number.

regards


WRT the break-in period (the first 100 or so hours): Just don't abuse the screen. Don't leave it on a channel with a bright static logo for too long. Don't play video games. Use common sense.

Larry
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post #818 of 3305 Old 08-13-2011, 08:41 PM
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Thanks Larry for all your help!
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post #819 of 3305 Old 08-14-2011, 07:03 AM
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So would you guys advise to mess with any settings from start?
Or is it best to leave factory settings for the first 100hrs?
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post #820 of 3305 Old 08-14-2011, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post


Whatever Chad did, he certainly corrected the color gamut. The attachment is a snip from the calibration report that you posted. The left one is pre-cal and the right one is post-cal. You can see how the color dots (the TV) are brought into the squares (the specification.) The slightly off spec cyan is typical for the D7000.

Larry

Thanks Larry. I have been exchanging emails with Chad, he is trying to figure out what happened. All of the other settings from his calibration seem fine. He asked me to confirm I was checking in 2D and movie mode, which I did. There have been no firmware changes since the calibration. The one strange coincidence is that the color space settings were not saved in his original email to me. Chad is a good guy and I'm sure he'll get this resolved. He is positive he had adjusted the color space settings. How they are now at factory default still remains a mystery. I guess I just needed a source of stress!
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post #821 of 3305 Old 08-14-2011, 04:38 PM
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I was watching Robin Hood last night at 24fps played from my PS3 and I noticed that Cinema smooth was turned on on picture settings. I turned it off and I didn't notice any difference in picture.

Can anyone tell me what if any noticeable difference there is between it on or off?

Also is it an available option with all content? This is the first time I remember seeing it as an option?

I'm using Tivo's calibration settings and there is no mention of whether it should be on or off.

Thanks
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post #822 of 3305 Old 08-14-2011, 06:24 PM
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Hello all. I am new to this forum and I'd like to ask a couple of questions.

First, I bought a PN59D8000 from Best Buy and it's supposed to be delivered on Tuesday. While there, they were trying to convince me to pay an additional $200.00 for a calibration. Do I really need to pay someone to calibrate the tv if I want a perfect picture?

When a professional calibrator calibrates a tv, are they doing anything different than I could do by changing the picture settings via the tv menu? Since theres so much subjectivity to a perfect picture, how could someone know what's best for what I like?

Also, I've done a lot of reading on multiple forums regarding the cinema smooth problems in the 2010 Samsungs. I have only seen one comment that said Robert someone said that the issue had been fixed in the 2011 models. Do any of you have any insight to this? Has the problem really been resolved?

How about the bubbling issue?

Thanks so much for your help.

Samsung TV - PN59D8000 - wall mounted
HW50ES projector w/electric Elite 120" ceiling mounted screen (drops in front of plasma)
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post #823 of 3305 Old 08-14-2011, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post

Hello all. I am new to this forum and I'd like to ask a couple of questions.

First, I bought a PN59D8000 from Best Buy and it's supposed to be delivered on Tuesday. While there, they were trying to convince me to pay an additional $200.00 for a calibration. Do I really need to pay someone to calibrate the tv if I want a perfect picture?

When a professional calibrator calibrates a tv, are they doing anything different than I could do by changing the picture settings via the tv menu? Since theres so much subjectivity to a perfect picture, how could someone know what's best for what I like?

Also, I've done a lot of reading on multiple forums regarding the cinema smooth problems in the 2010 Samsungs. I have only seen one comment that said Robert someone said that the issue had been fixed in the 2011 models. Do any of you have any insight to this? Has the problem really been resolved?

How about the bubbling issue?

Thanks so much for your help.

Do NOT pay for a BB calibration is my opinion. A BB calibration IMHO is not a pro calibration, a BB cal is what you can basically do yourself as you describe. You can do a protype calibration as well, unlocking the ISF modes, etc but the pro should have better equipment and will give you numbers to input specific your panel.

CS enabled will increase MLL, its not really a problem, you might not even notice unless you are watching in darkness. A samsung Rep told Robert that, but the rep was incorrect...nothing new there with reps.

Peeling can be fixed in the field with a new panel and oring kit install. As for what existing inventory might still have the issue, it's hard to say. Samsung will take care of you in the field if you so happen to have a peeler.

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post #824 of 3305 Old 08-14-2011, 07:17 PM
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Wow, thanks so much for the quick response!

How would I unlock the ISF modes? How would I know if my settings were correct? Is it just up to me on how I think the settings should be, or do the professionals measure something to determine the best settings? If they do measure something, what is the name of the "something" that they measure?

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post #825 of 3305 Old 08-14-2011, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post

Wow, thanks so much for the quick response!

How would I unlock the ISF modes? How would I know if my settings were correct? Is it just up to me on how I think the settings should be, or do the professionals measure something to determine the best settings? If they do measure something, what is the name of the "something" that they measure?

search for the service menu.. it's a bunch of keys pressed while the TV is off.. offhand I dont have it memorized. Each time you enter the service menu it clears settings and be careful in there too.. tread lightly.

yes the pro will use various meters to read you panel and make the necessary changes and plug in the values into what ever mode you want calibratied.. ISF day/night, movie etc. The procalibrators will make changes in greyscale and color and adjust light output.

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post #826 of 3305 Old 08-14-2011, 07:40 PM
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Sweetmeat,

Contrary to what spdntrixi said, at your level of understanding I do NOT recommend that you go into the service menu at all. You can brick your new TV.

Larry
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post #827 of 3305 Old 08-14-2011, 08:02 PM
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Larry -

Is their any calibration that's only available through the service menu and not in the tv picture settings menu? I'm trying to determine if accessing the service menu is required to get the best calibration. If not, I've done many self calibrations through the tv menu, using settings provided by CNET.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Samsung TV - PN59D8000 - wall mounted
HW50ES projector w/electric Elite 120" ceiling mounted screen (drops in front of plasma)
Receiver - Yamaha RX-A3000
Front Speakers - B&W CM9, Center - B&W CMC2, Surrounds - B&W CM5
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post #828 of 3305 Old 08-14-2011, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdntrxi View Post


search for the service menu.. it's a bunch of keys pressed while the TV is off.. offhand I dont have it memorized. Each time you enter the service menu it clears settings and be careful in there too.. tread lightly.

yes the pro will use various meters to read you panel and make the necessary changes and plug in the values into what ever mode you want calibratied.. ISF day/night, movie etc. The procalibrators will make changes in greyscale and color and adjust light output.

Thanks - I found the key sequence in this thread.

Samsung TV - PN59D8000 - wall mounted
HW50ES projector w/electric Elite 120" ceiling mounted screen (drops in front of plasma)
Receiver - Yamaha RX-A3000
Front Speakers - B&W CM9, Center - B&W CMC2, Surrounds - B&W CM5
SVS PB12+, SVS PB13 Ultra
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post #829 of 3305 Old 08-14-2011, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post

Larry -

Is their any calibration that's only available through the service menu and not in the tv picture settings menu? I'm trying to determine if accessing the service menu is required to get the best calibration. If not, I've done many self calibrations through the tv menu, using settings provided by CNET.

Thanks in advance for your help.


For the D8000 and D7000, accessing the service menu is not needed to do a complete and accurate calibration. All the required controls are available in the user menu.

Larry
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post #830 of 3305 Old 08-15-2011, 08:11 AM
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I'm on the fence on whether to buy an Eye-One LT or i1-2 and attempt to calibrate my 59D7005 myself. There aren't any professional calibrators near where I live, so I'd have to do it myself.
However, I'm rather happy with the picture as it is with factory settings, movie mode, contrast and brightness set with test patterns and all 'enhancers' off etc...

Only thing that I feel could do with a bit of improvement is the blacks and esspecially the shadow detail.

If I adjust the brightness so that the black level is acceptable, I seem to loose too much shadow detail. Increasing the gamma to +1 helps a little, and increasing it further to +2 brings out the missing detail but makes the image too washed out. I see that in most of the settings the gamma is set -1, that makes my set crush the blacks unless I increase the brightness but then the blacks are often too gray.

I've been using LOTR: Fellowship of the Ring EE, Disc 2, Chapter 7, time 00:19:50 as a test scene. That scene is where the fellowship is in the mines of Moria, in that scene they're walking on a ledge that has some ladders and ropes descending down.

What I'd like to know is that those who've had their sets professionally calibrated, how much detail can you see in the lower half of the screen on that scene?
With my unprofessionally adjusted settings, I can barely just see the ledge on the left of the screen if I look for it, but most of the detail on the rock wall and the lower part of the ladders is lost unless I pump up the brightness too high.
Has your calibrations brought out shadow detail while at the same time preserving deep blacks or even made the blacks deeper?
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post #831 of 3305 Old 08-15-2011, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mot67 View Post
I'm on the fence on whether to buy an Eye-One LT or i1-2 and attempt to calibrate my 59D7005 myself. There aren't any professional calibrators near where I live, so I'd have to do it myself.
However, I'm rather happy with the picture as it is with factory settings, movie mode, contrast and brightness set with test patterns and all 'enhancers' off etc...

Only thing that I feel could do with a bit of improvement is the blacks and esspecially the shadow detail.

If I adjust the brightness so that the black level is acceptable, I seem to loose too much shadow detail. Increasing the gamma to +1 helps a little, and increasing it further to +2 brings out the missing detail but makes the image too washed out. I see that in most of the settings the gamma is set -1, that makes my set crush the blacks unless I increase the brightness but then the blacks are often too gray.

I've been using LOTR: Fellowship of the Ring EE, Disc 2, Chapter 7, time 00:19:50 as a test scene. That scene is where the fellowship is in the mines of Moria, in that scene they're walking on a ledge that has some ladders and ropes descending down.

What I'd like to know is that those who've had their sets professionally calibrated, how much detail can you see in the lower half of the screen on that scene?
With my unprofessionally adjusted settings, I can barely just see the ledge on the left of the screen if I look for it, but most of the detail on the rock wall and the lower part of the ladders is lost unless I pump up the brightness too high.
Has your calibrations brought out shadow detail while at the same time preserving deep blacks or even made the blacks deeper?

The i1 LT and the i1 display 2 are the same meter. The difference is that the i1 display 2 comes with some photo editing software that you will not use to calibrate a TV. I recommend buying which ever you can get the cheapest. I decided to do a DIY calibration after a bad experience with a Best Buy calibration. I purchased an i1 display 2 and used the free colorHCRF and the avshd disk for patterns. It is also very helpful to read grayscale for dummies and the basic CMS calibration guide, grayscale for dummies actually has a step by step guide for doing a calibration with the exact set up I used. I highly recommend that you either do a DIY calibration or get a professional one. You will see a definite improvement in all aspects of picture quality, including shadow detail and the deepness of the blacks. I do not own LOTR on BD but I am sure that you will see better shadow detail in the scene you are talking about with a calibrated picture vs one that you adjusted by eye.

AVSHD disk
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496
Grayscale For Dummies
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
Basic CMS calibration guide
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=852536
colorHCRF
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php
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post #832 of 3305 Old 08-15-2011, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post
For the D8000 and D7000, accessing the service menu is not needed to do a complete and accurate calibration. All the required controls are available in the user menu.

Larry

The tech who did my calibration from Best Buy said that he could access more controls in the service menu than I could in the user menu, he also said that I could change whatever settings in the user menu that I wanted and it would not have any significant effect on the picture since he had done the calibration in the service menu. I am positive that the guy had no idea what he was talking about, which is why I am attempting to do a calibration myself. I am still fine tuning my set and have attached graphs and the .chc file. I am having issues with the gamma being too high in the 90% window. Do you think that increasing the contrast would help or should I stick to adjusting the 10 pt white? All of my delta Es are below 3 and the colors are getting closer but still need some tweaking.
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LL
LL
LL

 

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post #833 of 3305 Old 08-15-2011, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bhambengal View Post
The tech who did my calibration from Best Buy said that he could access more controls in the service menu than I could in the user menu, he also said that I could change whatever settings in the user menu that I wanted and it would not have any significant effect on the picture since he had done the calibration in the service menu. I am positive that the guy had no idea what he was talking about, which is why I am attempting to do a calibration myself. I am still fine tuning my set and have attached graphs and the .chc file. I am having issues with the gamma being too high in the 90% window. Do you think that increasing the contrast would help or should I stick to adjusting the 10 pt white? All of my delta E's are below 3 and the colors are getting closer but still need some tweaking.
I'm glad you cam forward and talked of your bad experience with BB. There is nothing to use in the SM for calibrating these Samsungs. Everything is in the user menu. The only reason for going into the SM is to unlock the cal-day/night modes. Then you must use the User menu to calibrate those modes. Of course you cannot change whatever you want in the user menu and have no affect on the calibration. What mode did he calibrate? Stay in the 10 pt and raise RGB together to make gamma lighter/lower. Also posting settings would help with your questions. What is contrast, brightness, gamma etc set at. What mode are you trying to calibrate?

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post #834 of 3305 Old 08-15-2011, 03:49 PM
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bhambengal,

Yes, there are pages of additional adjustments listed in the service manual but they are not at all needed to perform a full calibration. If the calibrator did nothing more than use the chess/lattice pattern method in the service mode to set the white balance, he did not perform a complete job.


Try adjusting the #10 region of your 10 point controls and see whether or not that can help reduce the high 90% point in the gamma curve. Sometimes using the #8 RGB adjustments ganged will change the 90% gamma region.


Also, for a better calibration, do a color run using the 75% windows instead of the 100% to see how that makes the gamut look. (This has nothing to do with the gamma problem.)

EDIT: Don, sorry to step on your response. You beat me by a minute.


Larry
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post #835 of 3305 Old 08-15-2011, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

bhambengal,

Yes, there are pages of additional adjustments listed in the service manual but they are not at all needed to perform a full calibration. If the calibrator did nothing more than use the chess/lattice pattern method in the service mode to set the white balance, he did not perform a complete job.


Try adjusting the #10 region of your 10 point controls and see whether or not that can help reduce the high 90% point in the gamma curve. Sometimes using the #8 RGB adjustments ganged will change the 90% gamma region.


Also, for a better calibration, do a color run using the 75% windows instead of the 100% to see how that makes the gamut look. (This has nothing to do with the gamma problem.)

EDIT: Don, sorry to step on your response. You beat me by a minute.


Larry

No prob Larry. You added info that I did not. It's all good.

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post #836 of 3305 Old 08-15-2011, 04:03 PM
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Proud new owner of a 64D8000. I got it for taking a 60D8000 LED back for the horrible vertical banding and terrible viewing angle. My question is, is break-in still really needed on a plasma? If so, how long before i'll be ok to play video games & watch ESPN, TNT, and other channels with static images? Thanks in advance.
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post #837 of 3305 Old 08-15-2011, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walmat View Post

I was watching Robin Hood last night at 24fps played from my PS3 and I noticed that Cinema smooth was turned on on picture settings. I turned it off and I didn't notice any difference in picture.

Can anyone tell me what if any noticeable difference there is between it on or off?

Also is it an available option with all content? This is the first time I remember seeing it as an option?

I'm using Tivo's calibration settings and there is no mention of whether it should be on or off.

Thanks

Hey there, Cinema Smooth should properly display 24fps video content. The only noticeable improvement (minor, at best) is smoother panning shots (beginning shots of Braveheart come to mind).

Some folks on here claim a higher brightness when it is engaged, thus messing up accurate gamma. But honestly, I can't see any negative difference with it on or off. So I leave it on.

I have a 59D7000 with CNET's settings dialed in. I watch in a dedicated theater room. Loving it!
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post #838 of 3305 Old 08-15-2011, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob67 View Post

Hey there, Cinema Smooth should properly display 24fps video content. The only noticeable improvement (minor, at best) is smoother panning shots (beginning shots of Braveheart come to mind).

Some folks on here claim a higher brightness when it is engaged, thus messing up accurate gamma. But honestly, I can't see any negative difference with it on or off. So I leave it on.

I have a 59D7000 with CNET's settings dialed in. I watch in a dedicated theater room. Loving it!

Thanks for your response. I couldn't tell any difference with CS on or off but I'll keep it on as you've said.
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post #839 of 3305 Old 08-15-2011, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

bhambengal,

Yes, there are pages of additional adjustments listed in the service manual but they are not at all needed to perform a full calibration. If the calibrator did nothing more than use the chess/lattice pattern method in the service mode to set the white balance, he did not perform a complete job.


Try adjusting the #10 region of your 10 point controls and see whether or not that can help reduce the high 90% point in the gamma curve. Sometimes using the #8 RGB adjustments ganged will change the 90% gamma region.


Also, for a better calibration, do a color run using the 75% windows instead of the 100% to see how that makes the gamut look. (This has nothing to do with the gamma problem.)

EDIT: Don, sorry to step on your response. You beat me by a minute.


Larry

thanks for that... one of the first things I did was enable the service menu before I looked at anything else... so I never even seen what was available in the normal screens

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post #840 of 3305 Old 08-15-2011, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post


Let us know if you figure out what is causing it. It would definitely be good to know so that we can avoid losing settings. I've heard that activating the Day/Night option on the D7000 can cause some volatility, but that's not even an option on the D8000.

Don't worry about the Service Menu. You really don't need to go in there for anything (unless you want to activate Day/Night on a D7000). As soon as you enter the Service Menu your settings get reset.

Is this really true? I thought I read in another thread that the D8000 does have day/night settings?

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