Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 39 - AVS Forum
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post #1141 of 3305 Old 09-28-2011, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob67 View Post

Larry,

Have you (or anyone) calibrated the set independantly for DirecTV? I used a combination of your settings (Cal Day) and CNET (movie) with great results on PS3 Blu Ray.

But, I ordered Thor on DTV PPV and noticed it was real dark, almost to the point of crush.

Has anyone used the HDNeT test screens for tweaks?

I have the 59D7000

I have compared the HDNet test screens using settings produced by the Spears & Munsil BluRay calibration disc as well as the AVS Rec709 disc. Also, if you Google the HDNet test screens you will find, as I did, that they are not very helpful for anything beyond brightness setting and to a lesser degree, contrast. They are no good for color adjustments because the color bars you have to compare are neither adjacent to each other nor flashing.

When I put the settings derived from these BluRay discs into my DirecTV input and look at the HDNet test screens, it looks good: faint "10" in right lower box => brightness setting is good, and faint "0" in left lower box => contrast is not too high.

I guess I should include the screens that help with sharpness setting. Any pattern that shows black lines against a light background lets you easily see the white ghosting artifact running along the black line that too high sharpness setting produces. You need to get up close to the TV.

So the HDNet test screens are of limited value, but what value they do have confirms settings derived from better discs and over various inputs. (As does watching the TV.)

I should also mention that my DirecTV boxes are all HR24s, and I do not see this black issue mentioned in LarryInRi's post above and discussed in several other places. One of my 2 HR24's connects to my TV with component, and the other one passes through my Denon AVR which performs no video processing. This absence of any difference includes looking at the HDNet test screens with component and HDMI. Like I already said brightness setting is the ONE thing the HDNet test screens do fairly well.

My set is a 51" D8000, August build.

Also, I have tried the settings ryu4000 posted and done by Chad B and on my set they look REALLY good. I tried some of the earlier settings posted and they did not work for my TV, but I have not compared the called for settings of Chad B to the earlier ones to see what the differences are.
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post #1142 of 3305 Old 09-28-2011, 09:40 PM
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I do not recommend copying settings for these Samsungs.

It became obvious early in the model year that the D8000 settings did not work well when applied to the D7000. Now after having two 64D7000 panels, it is obvious that even within the same model, the optimum settings are different for each one. And I don't mean just a little different. The two panels that I had were quite different -- with the settings from the first one visibly wrong when applied to the second unit.

The offset method that D-Nice developed for the Pioneer and Panasonic plasmas worked quite well. I can attest to that for two different model Panasonics that I owned. But since there is no easy way to use that offset method on these Samsungs, I suggest that the only thing that one can do, lacking a meter, is to try the various settings that have been posted and select the one that suits you best.


EDIT: kjgarrison, if the HR24 is connected via component the black level is correct. The problem only exists when connected by HDMI. Also, I suspect that your Denon is decoding the EDID correctly. The latest Samsungs, some Panasonics, and even the mightly KURO do not decode it properly.


Larry
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post #1143 of 3305 Old 09-28-2011, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob67 View Post

Larry,

Have you (or anyone) calibrated the set independantly for DirecTV? I used a combination of your settings (Cal Day) and CNET (movie) with great results on PS3 Blu Ray.

But, I ordered Thor on DTV PPV and noticed it was real dark, almost to the point of crush.

Has anyone used the HDNeT test screens for tweaks?

I have the 59D7000

Quote:
Originally Posted by ksigdawg View Post

I was starting to think I was one of the only people having problems with the DirecTV Picture Quality... Every day I have been trying to adjust my 64D8000 to make the PQ look better, but it's like an uphill battle. Some channels look OK, others look terrible... If anyone has good #'s for DirecTV please post! Thanks!

(I am pretty sure my wife will go crazy if she sees the Picture Settings menu pop up one more time...haha)

Quote:
Originally Posted by alexmanny01 View Post

I would also like to know what are some good settings for directv.

If anyone can provide it would be great.
Thanks

There is a lot of variability in what you get on D* channels. There ARE NO "settings" that make everything look the same, much less look both the same- and good. Some shows look amazing, and most on the major networks look quite good. But some of what is shown on other so called HD channels is absolutely NOT actually HD material.

If you're like me, you'll just not enjoy watching shows that don't look right and you'll stop watching them.
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post #1144 of 3305 Old 09-28-2011, 09:49 PM
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I've had two d7000. Started with a 59" and have now moved up to the 64".

Both sizes OOTB in Movie mode have "yellowish" whites. In all other modes, the whites look white.

Has anyone else experienced this?
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post #1145 of 3305 Old 09-28-2011, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

I do not recommend copying settings for these Samsungs.

It became obvious early in the model year that the D8000 settings did not work well when applied to the D7000. Now after having two 64D7000 panels, it is obvious that even within the same model, the optimum settings are different for each one. And I don't mean just a little different. The two panels that I had were quite different -- with the settings from the first one visibly wrong when applied to the second unit.

The offset method that D-Nice developed for the Pioneer and Panasonic plasmas worked quite well. I can attest to that for two different model Panasonics that I owned. But since there is no easy way to use that offset method on these Samsungs, I suggest that the only thing that one can do, lacking a meter, is to try the various settings that have been posted and select the one that suits you best.


EDIT: kjgarrison, if the HR24 is connected via component the black level is correct. The problem only exists when connected by HDMI. Also, I suspect that your Denon is decoding the EDID correctly. The latest Samsungs, some Panasonics, and even the mightly KURO do not decode it properly.


Larry

Certainly could be that my Denon AVR is doing what you suggest, even though all video processing is OFF and it is in standby. Easy enough to find out. I'll connect the HR24 directly to the TV.
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post #1146 of 3305 Old 09-29-2011, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

But since there is no easy way to use that offset method on these Samsungs.

May be it would help to reset the WB calibration settings in the SM.

When I received my TV, the base WB settings where adjusted for whatever target. I kept those settings for the break-in period but I reset them to 8x128 before I did my first thorough calibration.

A technician replaced my main-board last week and I found that the WB settings are at their defaults (all 128) but the Movie mode WB settings are exactly the same.

May be that procedure could be reproduced on these TVs (more or less), like:
- Reset the base WB settings in the SM to 128
- Turn ON the TV and don't change anything
- Start the built-in "scrolling bars" and let it run for 200 hours
- Copy the settings

I skipped the first one (actually I did it later...) and I didn't copy anything (I have a spectro), but I did a synthetic break-in with the scrolling bars as described (yes, the default dynamic mode is fine for doing this). It saved me the trouble to be paranoid in the first few hundred hours and may be to limit the brightness to uncomfortable levels while playing games during this time (which also extends the break-in period...), etc...

"DIY certified hobby-calibrator" (based on ChadB's "warning signs" list
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post #1147 of 3305 Old 09-29-2011, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post

May be it would help to reset the WB calibration settings in the SM.

When I received my TV, the base WB settings where adjusted for whatever target. I kept those settings for the break-in period but I reset them to 8x128 before I did my first thorough calibration.

A technician replaced my main-board last week and I found that the WB settings are at their defaults (all 128) but the Movie mode WB settings are exactly the same.

May be that procedure could be reproduced on these TVs (more or less), like:
- Reset the base WB settings in the SM to 128
- Turn ON the TV and don't change anything
- Start the built-in "scrolling bars" and let it run for 200 hours
- Copy the settings

I skipped the first one (actually I did it later...) and I didn't copy anything (I have a spectro), but I did a synthetic break-in with the scrolling bars as described (yes, the default dynamic mode is fine for doing this). It saved me the trouble to be paranoid in the first few hundred hours and may be to limit the brightness to uncomfortable levels while playing games during this time (which also extends the break-in period...), etc...

What IS your TV? I thought these settings were not accessible in these sets.
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post #1148 of 3305 Old 09-29-2011, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

What IS your TV? I thought these settings were not accessible in these sets.

D550 (I changed the model number to D7000 to unlock 10p gray and 6p gamut calibration features.)
I can change the base ADC/WP settings. I think this sub-menu is available for every models and only the Advanced (and Expert for EU models) sub-menu is hard-locked.

"DIY certified hobby-calibrator" (based on ChadB's "warning signs" list
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post #1149 of 3305 Old 09-29-2011, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallen234 View Post

I've had two d7000. Started with a 59" and have now moved up to the 64".

Both sizes OOTB in Movie mode have "yellowish" whites. In all other modes, the whites look white.

Has anyone else experienced this?

I get this too, I eventually just went with "relax" mode

No subwoofer I've heard has been able to produce the bass I've experienced in the Corps!

Must..stop...buying...every bluray release...
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post #1150 of 3305 Old 09-29-2011, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post

May be it would help to reset the WB calibration settings in the SM.

When I received my TV, the base WB settings where adjusted for whatever target. I kept those settings for the break-in period but I reset them to 8x128 before I did my first thorough calibration.

A technician replaced my main-board last week and I found that the WB settings are at their defaults (all 128) but the Movie mode WB settings are exactly the same.

May be that procedure could be reproduced on these TVs (more or less), like:
- Reset the base WB settings in the SM to 128
- Turn ON the TV and don't change anything
- Start the built-in "scrolling bars" and let it run for 200 hours
- Copy the settings

I skipped the first one (actually I did it later...) and I didn't copy anything (I have a spectro), but I did a synthetic break-in with the scrolling bars as described (yes, the default dynamic mode is fine for doing this). It saved me the trouble to be paranoid in the first few hundred hours and may be to limit the brightness to uncomfortable levels while playing games during this time (which also extends the break-in period...), etc...


Yes, I agree with what you say. That's why I said "no easy way." But... there are very few here that have any understanding of the items in the service menu. Most of the users here are complete novices. The service menu in the Samsung is much more dangerous for the pure and innocent to go wandering in than the Panasonic. I do not want to be responsible for bricking anyone's Samsung.

Larry
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post #1151 of 3305 Old 09-29-2011, 03:12 PM
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I know. The serious things (HDMI Calibration, MICOM Upgrade, etc) should be hidden by default (like many of the SM settings are hidden which aren't even dangerous or anyhow useful for any --novice or advanced-- users) and on the other hand, the Advanced mode should be available after you hit Factory and 3Speed. There would be less accidents and less mad advanced users here.

"DIY certified hobby-calibrator" (based on ChadB's "warning signs" list
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post #1152 of 3305 Old 09-29-2011, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post

...on the other hand, the Advanced mode should be available after you hit Factory and 3Speed. There would be less accidents and less mad advanced users here.

I think this is a bug, doesn't make sense that they would have two layers of security for this given the other more dangerous adjustments that are unlocked. Think I'll send a bug report to samsung engineering.
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post #1153 of 3305 Old 09-29-2011, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallen234 View Post

I've had two d7000. Started with a 59" and have now moved up to the 64".

Both sizes OOTB in Movie mode have "yellowish" whites. In all other modes, the whites look white.

Has anyone else experienced this?

It's not Movie mode that is doing this. It's the warm color temp that's doing this. If you change it to cool or standard, you'll see a major difference in whites.

HD = Heaven
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post #1154 of 3305 Old 09-29-2011, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sn1ffb0 View Post

It's not Movie mode that is doing this. It's the warm color temp that's doing this. If you change it to cool or standard, you'll see a major difference in whites.


And, of course, by doing this you move far away from the specification for a calibration -- which is the purpose of this thread.


Larry
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post #1155 of 3305 Old 09-29-2011, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

And, of course, by doing this you move far away from the specification for a calibration -- which is the purpose of this thread.


Larry

Watching sports looks much better with the standard color temp imo. I use cal-day for this and cal-night for movies.

HD = Heaven
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post #1156 of 3305 Old 09-30-2011, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

I have compared the HDNet test screens using settings produced by the Spears & Munsil BluRay calibration disc as well as the AVS Rec709 disc. Also, if you Google the HDNet test screens you will find, as I did, that they are not very helpful for anything beyond brightness setting and to a lesser degree, contrast. They are no good for color adjustments because the color bars you have to compare are neither adjacent to each other nor flashing.

When I put the settings derived from these BluRay discs into my DirecTV input and look at the HDNet test screens, it looks good: faint "10" in right lower box => brightness setting is good, and faint "0" in left lower box => contrast is not too high.

I guess I should include the screens that help with sharpness setting. Any pattern that shows black lines against a light background lets you easily see the white ghosting artifact running along the black line that too high sharpness setting produces. You need to get up close to the TV.

So the HDNet test screens are of limited value, but what value they do have confirms settings derived from better discs and over various inputs. (As does watching the TV.)

I should also mention that my DirecTV boxes are all HR24s, and I do not see this black issue mentioned in LarryInRi's post above and discussed in several other places. One of my 2 HR24's connects to my TV with component, and the other one passes through my Denon AVR which performs no video processing. This absence of any difference includes looking at the HDNet test screens with component and HDMI. Like I already said brightness setting is the ONE thing the HDNet test screens do fairly well.

My set is a 51" D8000, August build.

Also, I have tried the settings ryu4000 posted and done by Chad B and on my set they look REALLY good. I tried some of the earlier settings posted and they did not work for my TV, but I have not compared the called for settings of Chad B to the earlier ones to see what the differences are.

Interesting. I know my main receiver is a HR22-100 so I am not sure how that compares to the HR24 units in terms of HDMI settings.

I currently pass my PS3 and DTV receiver through my Onkyo AVR and up to my D7000 via a single HDMI to input 1. There is no processing at the AVR. I have my set dialed in with CNET calibration settings on Movie Mode on Input 1 on the set. I just got the Blu Ray Thor movie from Netflix and in doing a direct comparison, the first 10 minutes of the film (mostly dark and night scenes) look fantastic on the BR disk. Shadow detail is superb.

When I switch over to the 1080p/24 DTV pay per view version (same input and calibration settings, mind you) the dark scenes are totally crushed and I have to majorly boost contrast and brightness to see anything. This greatly affects the picture in a negative way.

I am not sure if there is some setting on the DTV receiver I can change? Not sure. The only thing I can think of is to calibrate one of the CAL modes for DTV and the only option I have is use the HDNet test pattern to get it somewhat better than I had.
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post #1157 of 3305 Old 09-30-2011, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

It appears that the black level problem exists with all the HR24 boxes. And it appears to be a problem with the TV not being able to decode the EDID (extended display identification data) properly. The most mentioned TV brands that seem to have this difficulty are some Pioneers (KURO included), some Panasonics, and the recent Samsungs.

Here's what got me interested in this: We had two HR23-700 models -- one in the living room and the other in the bedroom. The living room unit died and was replaced with an HR24-500. The black level problem was immediately apparent. The colors looked fine. (This is an HDMI problem. Black levels using component connections are not affected.)

I did some extensive experimenting over the long weekend and determined that, for the Samsung, changing the HDMI Black level is detrimental to the gamma. Significantly reducing the Brightness, however, corrects the problem while maintaining the properly calibrated gamma. I used both my i1 LT and i1 Pro meters in order to measure both black level and colors accurately.

Just to define what I mean by "significantly reducing the Brightness": For my D7000 where originally the Brightness was set at 64, I had to drop it to down to 44.

Larry

Quote:
Originally Posted by NJPapi1977 View Post

So Larry, for direct tv hd boxes we should put hdmi black level at normal and reduce brightness to compensate for the washed out look

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

NJPapi1977,

Yes, but for HR24 boxes only.

Larry


So, I guess I am not sure if my issue is the same with my HR22-100. RE: my post above.

My blacks are crushed in the film and I am not sure if lowering the brightness solves my issue. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the PPV film to test any longer.

I will play around with the test pattern I recorded and see if that needs changed.
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post #1158 of 3305 Old 09-30-2011, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob67 View Post

So, I guess I am not sure if my issue is the same with my HR22-100. RE: my post above.

My blacks are crushed in the film and I am not sure if lowering the brightness solves my issue. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the PPV film to test any longer.

I will play around with the test pattern I recorded and see if that needs changed.


The black level problem only exists with the HR24 and maybe only the HR24-500 when used with the current Samsungs, some Panasonics, and the KURO. (Some Sony LEDs also, I think.) I made this clear when I first mentioned it.

It is a problem that most probably is caused by the TVs not decoding the extended display identification data (EDID) properly.

Larry
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post #1159 of 3305 Old 09-30-2011, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

The black level problem only exists with the HR24 and maybe only the HR24-500 when used with the current Samsungs, some Panasonics, and the KURO. (Some Sony LEDs also, I think.) I made this clear when I first mentioned it.

It is a problem that most probably is caused by the TVs not decoding the extended display identification data (EDID) properly.

Larry

You did make that clear, thank you. You said to see your original post re: DTV receivers, which is why I asked.
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post #1160 of 3305 Old 10-02-2011, 11:42 PM
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How do they interact, or how should they be integrated?
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post #1161 of 3305 Old 10-04-2011, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunar69 View Post

Firstly... thanks to all the experts here for their invaluable advice!!

I recently received a PN51D8000 and would like the 'experts' advice (zoyd if he has the time!) on using the X-Rite i1Display Pro for the plasma TV calibration as well as profiling my LCD monitors for photographic applications. I'm on a budget and the $1000+ equipment you guys use is outta my league! And thanks to zoyd and others for the tables of settings... so far they work great on my 51".

w_w_w.xrite.com/product_overview.aspx?ID=1454

Thanks,
Marty

Don't know about photographic applications but I've used the i1Display and it does a decent job. Mine has an offset with respect to the i1pro for white balance and measurements of red but it's relatively minor and well worth the investment if you enjoy getting into DIY calibrations.
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post #1162 of 3305 Old 10-04-2011, 07:49 PM
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Just purchased a 64D8000 (delivery tomorrow). Reading this thread with great interest. One real dumb question, are the settings described by Cue, or others, completely achievable by NOT going into some advanced service menu? Meaning, can I get to these just by going through the normal on screen (consumer ready) menus?
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post #1163 of 3305 Old 10-04-2011, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by GBFreek View Post

Just purchased a 64D8000 (delivery tomorrow). Reading this thread with great interest. One real dumb question, are the settings described by Cue, or others, completely achievable by NOT going into some advanced service menu? Meaning, can I get to these just by going through the normal on screen (consumer ready) menus?

Yes no service menus needed.
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post #1164 of 3305 Old 10-04-2011, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

Don't know about photographic applications but I've used the i1Display and it does a decent job. Mine has an offset with respect to the i1pro for white balance and measurements of red but it's relatively minor and well worth the investment if you enjoy getting into DIY calibrations.


Zoyd, I'm not sure to which meter Marty is referring. The link that he included is for the x-rite i1 Display Pro -- but is that the one that interests him? He says he is on a budget.


As you know but others may not:

The x-rite "i1Display Pro", the SpectraCal "OEM i1Display", and the ChromaPure "EyeOne Display 3" are the same. These are colorimeters They come without software needed to calibrate a TV display. (These cost about $250.) None of these work with the free HCFR software.

The above are not to be confused with the ChromaPure "i1 Display 3 PRO" and the "SpectraCal C6" which are the same unit but married to specific software for calibration. (These bundled meter/software combos cost about $450.)

But the ones mentioned above are different from the "i1 LT" and the "i1 Display 2" (aka the i1 D2). The LT and the D2 meters are identical, the difference being only with the included software. (These cost about $125.) They can be used with the free HCFR software.)

Adding even more to the confusion is the x-rite "i1 Pro" which is a spectroradiometer. (It now costs about $800.) It can be used with the free software.

Then there is the SpectraCal "i1Pro Enhanced Spectroradiometer" that is bundled with software. (It costs about $1000.)

Of course we can't neglect the ChromaPure "X-Rite i1Pro-Display 3 Combo" which is a bundle containing a "i1 Pro" spectroradiometer, a "Display 3 colorimeter", and software. (Cost is about $2500.)


Probably I have left some combinations out or gotten some items wrong. Feel free to correct me and add even more to the chaos.


Larry
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post #1165 of 3305 Old 10-05-2011, 04:41 AM
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You forgot the "EyeOne SpectraDisplay SuperPro (Non-OEM) with optional Moon Rock diffraction grating".

Thanks



Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Zoyd, I'm not sure to which meter Marty is referring. The link that he included is for the x-rite i1 Display Pro -- but is that the one that interests him? He says he is on a budget.


As you know but others may not:

The x-rite "i1Display Pro", the SpectraCal "OEM i1Display", and the ChromaPure "EyeOne Display 3" are the same. These are colorimeters They come without software needed to calibrate a TV display. (These cost about $250.) None of these work with the free HCFR software.

The above are not to be confused with the ChromaPure "i1 Display 3 PRO" and the "SpectraCal C6" which are the same unit but married to specific software for calibration. (These bundled meter/software combos cost about $450.)

But the ones mentioned above are different from the "i1 LT" and the "i1 Display 2" (aka the i1 D2). The LT and the D2 meters are identical, the difference being only with the included software. (These cost about $125.) They can be used with the free HCFR software.)

Adding even more to the confusion is the x-rite "i1 Pro" which is a spectroradiometer. (It now costs about $800.) It can be used with the free software.

Then there is the SpectraCal "i1Pro Enhanced Spectroradiometer" that is bundled with software. (It costs about $1000.)

Of course we can't neglect the ChromaPure "X-Rite i1Pro-Display 3 Combo" which is a bundle containing a "i1 Pro" spectroradiometer, a "Display 3 colorimeter", and software. (Cost is about $2500.)


Probably I have left some combinations out or gotten some items wrong. Feel free to correct me and add even more to the chaos.


Larry


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post #1166 of 3305 Old 10-05-2011, 05:43 AM
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When i'm using the AVS HD Calibration disk i'm not able to set the video black point to 17 unless i use contrast = 90, brightness = 80 & cell light = 14 that gives me video black = 17 and fl a bit over 30 measured with OEM i1display pro In Calman v4

So how come that all the configuration settings are talking about settings of contrast between 80-95 but the brightness only in the area of 55-65.

If i'm using that kind of settings it gives me a video black point of 20-21.
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post #1167 of 3305 Old 10-05-2011, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Zoyd, I'm not sure to which meter Marty is referring. The link that he included is for the x-rite i1 Display Pro -- but is that the one that interests him? He says he is on a budget.
...
But the ones mentioned above are different from the "i1 LT" and the "i1 Display 2" (aka the i1 D2). The LT and the D2 meters are identical, the difference being only with the included software. (These cost about $125.) They can be used with the free HCFR software.)
...
Larry

Larry... I was referring to the i1 Display Pro @ $269.
I checked the xRite web site and they say the i1 Display2 is discontinued [ http://www.xrite.com/ph_product_over...ction=overview ] but it is still available on the web. I assume this is the one you speak of:

http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Displ.../dp/B000JLO31M

If I get this (with the included i1Match software) will I be able to calibrate my D8000? Also, can I use it with the free HCFR software you mention? BTW, a pointer to this free software would be appreciated... thanks!

Marty
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post #1168 of 3305 Old 10-05-2011, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunar69 View Post

Larry... I was referring to the i1 Display Pro @ $269.
I checked the xRite web site and they say the i1 Display2 is discontinued [ http://www.xrite.com/ph_product_over...ction=overview ] but it is still available on the web. I assume this is the one you speak of:

http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Displ.../dp/B000JLO31M

If I get this (with the included i1Match software) will I be able to calibrate my D8000? Also, can I use it with the free HCFR software you mention? BTW, a pointer to this free software would be appreciated... thanks!

Marty

yes, that's the one I was referring to. I haven't used any of the other combos that Larry so nicely summarized so there might be better alternatives but the display2 + HCFR software found here is the best low cost calibration solution IMO. i1Match is used to calibrate white balance and gamma for your laptop display.
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post #1169 of 3305 Old 10-05-2011, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jespermart View Post

So how come that all the configuration settings are talking about settings of contrast between 80-95 but the brightness only in the area of 55-65.

The correct value for those user menu controls depend on many things:

- The ADC calibration settings in the Service Menu (they are usually correct and exactly the same for all units but it can be messed up).
- The WB calibration settings in the Service Menu, especially "Sub Contrast" and "Sub Brightness".
- Other (currently hidden and uncontrollable) Service Menu settings.

- The Gamma setting (I have to increase my brightness significantly when I use negative values)
- The 10p adjustments (I have to change the Brightness by +/- 1-2 after the 10p calibration, because it affects the things just like the Gamma control).
- Sometimes the Cell Light control can also affect things.

- And may be I miss something from this list, so it depends on many other things...

Take a look at my settings here (don't copy it for your device, just note the high brightness coupled with the negative Gamma value, especially with the 60Hz Movie mode).

"DIY certified hobby-calibrator" (based on ChadB's "warning signs" list
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post #1170 of 3305 Old 10-05-2011, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jespermart View Post

When i'm using the AVS HD Calibration disk i'm not able to set the video black point to 17 unless i use contrast = 90, brightness = 80 & cell light = 14 that gives me video black = 17 and fl a bit over 30 measured with OEM i1display pro In Calman v4

So how come that all the configuration settings are talking about settings of contrast between 80-95 but the brightness only in the area of 55-65.

If i'm using that kind of settings it gives me a video black point of 20-21.


The D7000 seems to require a higher setting of the Brightness control than the D8000. Settings in the mid 60s are not unusual for the D7000. Your setting is quite a bit higher than any that I have seen. Try adjusting it so that the black level so that the "19" bar just flashes when viewed from your seating position.

EDIT: And as janos pointed out, the white balance levels and gamma setting have a significant effect on the proper Brightness setting.


Larry
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