Samsung D7000 & D8000 Settings/Calibration Thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Rather than have people post calibration settings in the general owner's thread where they'll get buried, I figured I'd start a new thread specifically for calibration settings. I figure it makes sense to have people post their settings for both the D7000 & D8000 models since they essentially use the same panel. If anyone tries any of the settings that are posted here, please report back. It will be interesting to see how well the settings transfer between individual sets and sizes.

My PN64D8000 was calibrated by Gregg Loewen from Lion AV. He did a great job and kept me informed about what he was doing every step of the way. The gray-scale and colors ended up spot on.

Here are the settings that I ended up with after the calibration. I've also attached the before and after charts for reference.

Edit: I replaced my settings with the latest collaborative table that shows my settings along with settings from zoyd, cue03, and LarryInRI

TiVoHD zoyd cue03 LarryInRI
64D8000 51D8000 64D8000 64D7000
Mode Movie Movie Movie Movie
Peak White 30ftL 27.8ftL
Cell Light 20 15 20 15
Contrast 96 80 95 80
Brightness 54 54 53 66
Sharpness 0 0 5 0
Color 50 50 50 44
Tint 50/50 50/50 50/50 48/52
Black Tone off off off
Dynamic off off off
gamma -1 -1 -1 0
RGB Only off
Flesh Tone 0 0 0
Edge Enhance off off off
Motion Light off off off
xvYcc off off off
Color Tone warm2 warm2 warm2
Digital Noise off off off
mpeg Noise off off off
Color Space
Red_r 48 39 43 36
Red_g 6 6 6 50
Red_b 6 5 5 50
Green_r 20 20 14 60
Green_g 54 50 50 50
Green_b 3 6 1 20
Blue_r 3 1 3 40
Blue_g 3 3 0 20
Blue_b 50 41 47 50
Yellow_r 53 51 48 50
Yellow_g 53 51 50 50
Yellow_b 6 7 5 2
Cyan_r 17 18 15 20
Cyan_g 52 48 49 46
Cyan_b 52 48 51 46
Magenta_r 47 41 44 40
Magenta_g 8 6 6 3
Magenta_b 57 48 48 47
White Balance
r-offset 26 22 25 28
g-offset 25 26 25 22
b-offset 22 25 25 22
r-gain 13 30 25 28
g-gain 25 25 25 24
b-gain 29 27 30 24
10-point
r1 0 -1 1 0
g1 0 -1 0 0
b1 0 0 1 1
r2 0 2 -4 0
g2 0 1 -3 0
b2 0 2 -4 0
r3 1 0 1 0
g3 0 0 1 0
b3 0 -2 0 0
r4 0 1 0 0
g4 0 0 1 0
b4 0 -1 1 -1
r5 0 0 2 -1
g5 1 1 2 0
b5 2 -3 3 1
r6 -2 0 1 -1
g6 0 0 1 0
b6 0 1 2 1
r7 1 1 0 0
g7 2 1 0 0
b7 2 2 0 0
r8 -2 -1 -1 0
g8 0 0 -1 0
b8 0 1 -1 0
r9 0 -1 0 0
g9 2 -1 0 0
b9 -2 1 -1 0
r10 0 1 1 0
g10 2 0 0 0
b10 -2 3 -3 0

LL
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post #2 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 11:32 AM
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Thanks TiVoHD for setting up this thread.

Updated 03/29/2012

I have switched back to a movie mode calibration only due to some unusual behavior found in the Cal D/N saturation tracking. (see post here). The following settings were derived using custom APL patterns for both gray scale and color and then the color calibration was tweaked using the Argyll CMS/DispcalGUI software to minimize dE over a range of luminances and saturations. For D8000 only.

Mode Movie
Average gamma (fixed APL) 2.3
Peak White 35 ftL
Cell light 16
contrast 91
brightness 56
sharpness 8
color 47
tint 51G/49R
black tone off
dynamic off
gamma -2
flesh tone 0
edge enhance off
motion lighting off
xvYcc off
color tone warm2
digital noise auto*
mpeg noise off
Custom color space
Red_r 40
Red_g 7
Red_b 8
Green_r 21
Green_g 47
Green_b 0
Blue_r 0
Blue_g 2
Blue_b 48
Yellow_r 50
Yellow_g 48
Yellow_b 8
Cyan_r 20
Cyan_g 50
Cyan_b 50
Magenta_r 39
Magenta_g 7
Magenta_b 48
White Balance
r-off 22
g-off 25
b-off 22
r-gain 18
g-gain 25
b-gain 27
10-pt intervals
1 0,0,1
2 3,2,2
3 3,2,2
4 0,0,-1
5 0,1,-4
6 1,2,1
7 1,3,1
8 3,4,2
9 -1,0,1
10 -1,2,3

05/11/2012
Here is an alternative (see discussion here) which uses an approach to gamma calibration which is designed to avoid crushed blacks.

After feedback from LarryinRI and experimenting with the inverse BT.709 (camera) function mentioned at the beginning of that thread, I've decided to abandon it. There appear to be some cases where it's a good match to the video material but not as a general rule. After more feedback in the gamma discussion thread I've decided to try a BT.1886 recommended function curve and those calibration results are below if you'd like to try it out. (It's very similar to LarryinRI's custom gamma curve)

update 05/24/2012
Reflects adjustments based on calibrating to color checker patterns.

Mode Movie
Average gamma 2.2 (variable 2.1-2.3)
Peak White 35 ftL
Cell light 14
contrast 95
brightness 55
sharpness 0
color 49
tint 50G/50R
black tone off
dynamic off
gamma -1
flesh tone -3
edge enhance off
motion lighting off
xvYcc off
color tone warm2
digital noise auto*
mpeg noise off
Custom color space
Red_r 38
Red_g 5
Red_b 6
Green_r 18
Green_g 45
Green_b 4
Blue_r 2
Blue_g 3
Blue_b 40
Yellow_r 50
Yellow_g 49
Yellow_b 8
Cyan_r 18
Cyan_g 46
Cyan_b 48
Magenta_r 35
Magenta_g 4
Magenta_b 44
White Balance
r-off 25
g-off 26
b-off 20
r-gain 15
g-gain 27
b-gain 26
10-pt intervals
1 2, 1, 3
2 2, 3, 3
3 -1, 0, 1
4 -5,-4,-3
5 -4,-3,-6
6 -4,-3,-5
7 -4,-3,-4
8 -2,-1,-2
9 -2,-2,-3
10 -3,-2,-1

Bright room: contrast 95 cell 20 brightness 53 gamma 0 [48ftL]
Medium light: contrast 95 cell 14 brightness 55 gamma -1 [35ftL]
Dark room: contrast 95 cell 11 brightness 56 gamma -1 (or -2 if really dark) [28ftL]

*The noise filter does a good job of cleaning up average to poor SD material. Turn it off for good quality source.





Average dE94=0.92, max=1.44


Tracking chart at 75% luminance - 75L/100S Average dE94=1.4, max=2.1

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post #3 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 11:47 AM
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Tried the settings and they look great but running contrast and cell light that high right out the box scares me. I will revisit these once the break in periods over
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post #4 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 12:27 PM
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I was wondering if either of you could post your 3D settings? Are they the same? Also any preferred Xbox 360 settings?

edit: Zoyd I just updated my settings with the small tweaks you made from your first post...Still looking great, will you keep updating/editing that post?
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post #5 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvanVanVan View Post

I was wondering if either of you could post your 3D settings? Are they the same? Also any preferred Xbox 360 settings?

I have my 3D settings set the same. I would crank up the cell light for 3D if I didn't already have it at the highest setting.

These settings seem just as good with my Xbox 360.
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post #6 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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One thing I forgot to mention is to make sure you have the Screen Size set to Screen Fit. I thought that the 16:9 setting would be the same, except with a little overscan cropped from the edges. That's basically true, but it forces the TV to scale the remaining pixels to it's native resolution of 1920x1080, so you no longer get true 1080p (or 1080i for that matter). Gregg showed me a test slide that showed all kinds of banding with the TV set to 16:9. It looked perfect when we changed it to Screen Fit.

I realize that the Pixel Shift function isn't available with Screen Fit, but that's a small price to pay for no loss in resolution.
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post #7 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 01:02 PM
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Wow great tip, I can really notice how much better it looks with screen fit...it's looks like Zoom is turned on with 16:9...thanks
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post #8 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvanVanVan View Post

I was wondering if either of you could post your 3D settings? Are they the same? Also any preferred Xbox 360 settings?

edit: Zoyd I just updated my settings with the small tweaks you made from your first post...Still looking great, will you keep updating/editing that post?

That was after 50 hours of use, I'll update again in a week or two along with a 3D calibration although I don't expect it to be much different and I've just copied over those to the 3D settings for now. As far as gaming settings there is a "game mode" available under system->general but I don't know what it does.

edit: definitely use screen fit, 16:9 overscans 2.5% so you lose ~25 vertical pixels of resolution.

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post #9 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 01:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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it's interesting that your calibrator did the red desaturation mostly via r-gain rather than via the CMS.

Yeah, I doubt that either method is better. Just different ways to arrive at the same result.
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post #10 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

One thing I forgot to mention is to make sure you have the Screen Size set to Screen Fit. I thought that the 16:9 setting would be the same, except with a little overscan cropped from the edges. That's basically true, but it forces the TV to scale the remaining pixels to it's native resolution of 1920x1080, so you no longer get true 1080p (or 1080i for that matter). Gregg showed me a test slide that showed all kinds of banding with the TV set to 16:9. It looked perfect when we changed it to Screen Fit.

I realize that the Pixel Shift function isn't available with Screen Fit, but that's a small price to pay for no loss in resolution.

Does anyone know with any certainty what the "small price" of no pixel shift actually means? Would you advise that we wait a few weeks after purchase to move to Screen Fit?
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post #11 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItzMe View Post

Does anyone know with any certainty what the "small price" of no pixel shift actually means? Would you advise that we wait a few weeks after purchase to move to Screen Fit?

Can you tell those of us who are following this thread in order to achieve accurate picture quality, but aren't versed in the (processing?) features, what "pixel shift" is?
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post #12 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zetherin View Post

Can you tell those of us who are following this thread in order to achieve accurate picture quality, but aren't versed in the (processing?) features, what "pixel shift" is?

pixel shift is the orbiter function, it occasionally will shift static images on the screen to avoid image retention. If you use screen fit this is disabled because you can't maintain 1:1 mapping and shift the image around at the same time. I don't use the orbiter even when the display is new, I just avoid too many static images and if there is one for awhile like a box score, I'll switch channels occasionally to scrub the screen. image retention is really not an issue with the new phosphors unless you really try hard.

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post #13 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

pixel shift is the orbiter function, it occasionally will shift static images on the screen to avoid image retention. If you use screen fit this is disabled because you can't maintain 1:1 mapping and shift the image around at the same time. I don't use the orbiter even when the display is new, I just avoid too many static images and if there is one for awhile like a box score, I'll switch channels occasionally to scrub the screen. image retention is really not an issue with the new phosphors unless you really try hard.

Oh ok, so it's just a feature that helps prevent image retention. It has nothing to do with picture quality.

Thanks.
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post #14 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Oh ok, so it's just a feature that helps prevent image retention. It has nothing to do with pixel quality.

Correct. Just leave it set to Screen Fit and don't leave static images on the screen for hours on end and you'll be fine.
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Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

Correct. Just leave it set to Screen Fit and don't leave static images on the screen for hours on end and you'll be fine.

No news or ESPN channels?
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post #16 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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No news or ESPN channels?

Just don't worry about it. I've had plasmas for many years, and I've never seen a hint of IR let alone burn-in. Worst case, you start to notice some IR and you run the built-in patterns to get rid of it.
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post #17 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whackawookie View Post

Tried the settings and they look great but running contrast and cell light that high right out the box scares me. I will revisit these once the break in periods over

It looks like TiVoHD's was calibrated for a room with lot's of ambient light. I plugged those number's into my set and got 50 ftL peak white output. The settings I use are for a mid-dark room (dark walls and small windows) with peak white at 30 ftL.

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post #18 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

It looks like TiVoHD's was calibrated for a room with lot's of ambient light. I plugged those number's into my set and got 50 ftL peak white output. The settings I use are for a mid-dark room (dark walls and small windows) with peak white at 30 ftL.

Yup, my family room has a lot of ambient light during the day. It definitely may be too bright for some. Reducing the cell light would probably be enough to dial that down.
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post #19 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 03:39 PM
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I am using zoyd's settings and the tv looks great. However I do have a great deal of ambient light during the day is there a way for me to save both settings and switch back and forth depending on time of day? I know the C8000 had a day/night setting but I haven't seen this on my 51 D8000.
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post #20 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pato79 View Post

I am using zoyd's settings and the tv looks great. However I do have a great deal of ambient light during the day is there a way for me to save both settings and switch back and forth depending on time of day? I know the C8000 had a day/night setting but I haven't seen this on my 51 D8000.

From buzzard767:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=5027
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post #21 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
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From buzzard767:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=5027

that only works for the 7000 series. You can store all of the settings except 10 pt in standard mode as well if you need a 2nd preset.

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post #22 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 04:07 PM
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Would any of these settings work on last year's C8000 sets?
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post #23 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

that only works for the 7000 series. You can store all of the settings except 10 pt in standard mode as well if you need a 2nd preset.


zoyd,

Did you consider the D7000. If so or if no, why?

Thanks,
Larry
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post #24 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
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zoyd,

Did you consider the D7000. If so or if no, why?

Thanks,
Larry

I was ready to get it and was overruled by my wife who liked the looks of the D8000 better.

@JCUMV Hard to say since we don't know how much has changed. If they use phosphors with different efficiency and/or different driving schemes then these setting likely won't work well. Won't hurt to try them though.

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post #25 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 06:03 PM
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TiVoHD and zoyd:

Is there any reason why -1 Gamma was chosen? I've noticed that the -1 Gamma in your calibrations seem to make the screen a little bit too dark. Setting it back to 0 seems to be easier on my eyes and produce a better picture.
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post #26 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 06:06 PM
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Trying out TiVoHD's settings on my 64D8 for a while.

Jesus this TV is amazing.
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post #27 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 06:43 PM
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Great post TivoHD, just plugged in all your numbers.

Although I see two options missing. What do you show under Picture Options for HDMI Black level and Film Mode? Should Cinema Motion be turned on?
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post #28 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zetherin View Post

TiVoHD and zoyd:

Is there any reason why -1 Gamma was chosen? I've noticed that the -1 Gamma in your calibrations seem to make the screen a little bit too dark. Setting it back to 0 seems to be easier on my eyes and produce a better picture.

The -1 gamma produces a measured gamma of 2.22, which is what calibrations aim for to accurately reproduce the luminance scale that was encoded in the source material. Some argue for a slightly higher gamma of 2.3 or even 2.4 which would appear even darker.

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post #29 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

The -1 gamma produces a measured gamma of 2.22, which is what calibrations aim for to accurately reproduce the luminance scale that was encoded in the source material. Some argue for a slightly higher gamma of 2.3 or even 2.4 which would appear even darker.

Interesting, thanks for the response. I suppose this is one of those times where my eyes don't agree with expert opinion. The Dark Knight, for instance, and keeping in mind it's a rather dark movie to begin with, is almost unbearable to watch with the settings above and -1 gamma for me. If I don't up it to 0, the blacks just overtake the film.
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post #30 of 3305 Old 05-07-2011, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Zetherin View Post

Interesting, thanks for the response. I suppose this is one of those times where my eyes don't agree with expert opinion. The Dark Knight, for instance, and keeping in mind it's a rather dark movie to begin with, is almost unbearable to watch with the settings above and -1 gamma for me. If I don't up it to 0, the blacks just overtake the film.

For a movie like that you'll lose black detail if there is any ambient light, it really was designed for a pitch black theatre.

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