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PNxxD550 advanced calibration unlocked!/Calibration Thread

258K views 779 replies 183 participants last post by  jack54 
#1 ·
Welcome!

For Posterity in this thread.. if you could post your firmware version and country purchased as well. that would be great! My firmware is 2011/02/11_001007.(CAN) you can check the firmware version from "menu, support---software upgrade"


The D550 series is IMO the best panel for the PQ/BUCKS! It has virtually the same panel as the higher end models of the Samsung '11 lines. Series 5,6,7,8.


The only thing the 6,7,8 series have is AR filter/RealBlackFilter/10pt Calibration/Smart TV Functions.


We now have a way to unlock the 10point advanced calibration on our awesome mid range TV's in the D550 series. This makes IMO our sets a high range set. With this we can have virtually the same PQ as the highest end set. Better color accuracy and grayscale.


I am not talking about blacks... that is another thing.. but imo it's totally subjective unless you have the panels side by side.. and even then.. i think it's 50% wishfull thinking and 50% placebo. lol..


anyways..


onto the instructions.. eh?
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USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. I, AND NO-ONE ELSE IN THIS THREAD ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY MISHAPS WITH YOUR SET.
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Turn off display and punch in the following "Mute - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power" to enter service menu.


Enter the Option menu.


Highlight the set name it should say D550. click left until you come upon D7000. Select it and then exit option menu back to main menu.


Now if you want you can enable Cal-Day, Cal-Night. this will give you 2 more picture modes so you can store some more settings for PQ.


it is in the Expert menu. Enable the d/n and then exit to main menu.


Now shut off display. and turn back on.


You now have extra options as the d7000 d6500/d6900 d8000 have.


The only catch is.. the hdmi ports get muddled and you have to crossmatch them for them to work.. crossmatching is explained below.. basically you need all 4 ports plugged in for crossmatching to function 100% and give you all ports working fine.. if you don't have access to 4 devices to use hdmi with.. then you can use the "idle port" fix that is explained below and in this thread as well. previously it was thought that you couldn't have all ports working maybe only 3 and the using of the idle port.. but when full crossmatching is applied.. the is totally negated and we can indeed use all 4 ports fine and dandy!

The HDMI ports get crossmatched to the port names in the source menu.

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Crossmatching Explained.. Further information about Idle ports and Crossmatching to obtain and use all 4 ports on your SET


Crossmatch the ports you need.. Note--((the ps3 on my set when turned off ceases to function via HDMI this causes a break in the chain and screws ups the crossmatch/idle port. (total crossmatching Gives you the total use of all 4 ports)


Idle port still applies if you are using say 2 or 3 its essentially still a crossmatch because you need the opposite side for it to work *idle port* and if you crossmatch the idle port.. the idle port will function.. and so on and so forth.


In this thread. the term crossmatching is used to denote the unusual problem we have when needing a port to function correctly. you need a matched port on the other side.. (cross-match). the crossmatching is normally fine because we usually have all the devices on and plugged in via hdmi in the chain and of course having the (idle port).. so if all devices function correctly and the idle port is working then crossmatching is fine.


but.. when you have an idle port and another link in the chain(ps3-hdmi) that turns off.. it can cause issues with crossmatching. (e.g. the port crossmatching to the ps3 will cease to function.. causing a chain problem...


this can be moot if you just crossmatch the port to an port that doesn't need to be used all the time.. and again.. this may not be an issue to all.. and just my bug.


it's just good to hash this out.. i was going to post more about the crossmatching but needed to figure out some more things first. now i have posted it we can see what if any other issues we have.


you an see the crossmatch for your ownself by plugging in each port via hdmi. then checking all sources. now unplug each one and you see that they are all matched to one another.


The crossmatching theory that i have found negates the idle port.. because if you have all 4 ports plugged in and HOT WIRED to a LIVE SOUCE... All Ports Function Fine!


Hence the Crossmatching.


so... there it is.

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You need 2 HDMI plugged in to have 1 HDMI. You need 3 HDMI plugged in to have 2 Sources. and last but not least.. you need 4 HDMI plugged in to have 3 sources..


This is the catch.. it's not a big deal.. because with HDMI splitters and AVR's.. it isn't a problem.. but for some it may be an issue.. You have to have an actual HDMI LIVE WIRE plugged in.. as in it has to be SOURCE TO SOURCE.


For instance.. i have my devices as so.


HDA1-HD DVD player. Plugged into port 2. it shows up in menu as port 4


I have my PS3 plugged into port 3 and it shows up as port 2 in menu.


I have my pc plugged into port 4 and it shows up in menu as port 1 DVI/PC.


Now because of the crossmatch between ports.. We in this thread have determined that you need what we have coined as an IDLE port.


My "idle" port is port 1 on the back of the unit. It presumably would have been port 3 but i haven't tested it as i have no sources left.. It is simply plugged into the "HDMI OUT" port on my AVR. I have currently decided to matrix all the sound to 2.1 through my AVR via Optical from my TV. This is easier for me now.. when i get a better AVR and Better Player e.g Top of the line Samsung, or the like with Analogs.. i an do HD sound.. but it is what it is..


I dug around the threads and found these to be my favorite settings for the set.


They were from the d8000 calibration thread you will no doubt parse and see below.


The set was calibrated by CHAD. He is a very good calibrator by virtue of his reputation on AVS and elsewhere.


Here are my Advanced Calibration Settings.

Mode:Movie

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Cell Light---20

Contrast---95

Brightness---53

Sharpness---5 (((I prefer 20)))

Color---50

Tint---50/50

Black Tone---off

Dynamic---off

Gamma--- *(-1)* I prefer 0 or +1 i think it was calibrated for very dark room?

Rgb Only---off

Flesh Tone---0

Motion Light---off

xvYcc---off

Color Tone---warm2 (i prefer warm1) Standard for 3d settings.

Digital Noise---off

Mpeg Noise---off

I choose to run cinema smooth for BD's.

----------------

Color Space

_______

Red_r-----43

Red_g-----6

Red_b-----5

_______

Green_r-----14

Green_g-----50

Green_b-----1

_______

Blue_r-----3

Blue_g-----0

Blue_b-----47

_______

Yellow_r-----48

Yellow_g-----50

Yellow_b-----5

_______

Cyan_r-----15

Cyan_g-----49

Cyan_b-----51

_______

Magenta_r-----44

Magenta_g-----6

Magenta_b-----48

________________

White Balance

----------------

r_offset-----25

g_offset-----25

b_offset-----25

r_gain-----25

b_gain-----25

g_gain-----30

________________

10 Point Calibration

-----------------------

r1--------(1

g1-------(0

b1-------(1


r2-------(-4

g2-------(-3

b2-------(-4


r3-------(1

g3-------(1

b3-------(0


r4-------(0

g4-------(1

b4-------(1


r5-------(2

g5-------(2

b5-------(3


r6-------(1

g6-------(1

b6-------(2


r7-------(0

g7-------(0

b7-------(0


r8-------(-1

g8-------(-1

b8-------(-1


r9-------(0

g9-------(0

b9-------(-1


r10-------(1

g10-------(0

b10-------(-3




For 3d. I use this mode. but turn on dynamic contrast to high. black level to max. make sure the gamma is +1 and brightness is at 60.


Hope this works for u.


It took me 2 hours to calculate and find all these things and type out.



enjoi. and please keep this thread alive and post!!! and contribute.


Hopefully we get more interest in this and lots more folks.


I will post Blwn's settings and others below soon. so we can hopefully get some good info and contrast between what we find good with our advanced calibration settings for this set.
 
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#27 ·
I did this last night. I had my avr plugged into 4 and was trying to figure it out. I then took a different device (hd cable box) and plugged it into 2. When I did that 4 began to work. But I still could not get 2. He has the ports all right in what he says earlier. Easiest way I can think to explain it is you will always need one idle port. Something that you do not use plugged in to make it the rest them work.
 
#28 ·
I think the problem is that the TV won't let you choose an inactive port (which isn't connected to any devices - powered on or off doesn't matter).

So after the renaming you want to select 2, but the TV doesn't let it for you because the algorithm which checks if it's available (has a connected device) disables it.

So, I think all four ports should work if you have four devices.

If you have a PC then it probably has many digital outputs which can be connected directly or through a simple passive adapter. -> I already ordered a very cheap DVI->HDMI adapter and I have a cheap HDMI cable at hand...
 
#29 ·
Hmm...kind of shocked that so many people are surprised that the set can be changed via service menu considering samsungs are notorious for allowing SM changes to unlock features. Not only that, but unlocking the features on the D550 have been known about since early march.


Anyway, anyone have any calibration reports they'd like to post? I'm curious as to how well this set competes with the ST30.
 
#30 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by maygit /forum/post/20542426


Hmm...kind of shocked that so many people are surprised that the set can be changed via service menu considering samsungs are notorious for allowing SM changes to unlock features. Not only that, but unlocking the features on the D550 have been known about since early march.


Anyway, anyone have any calibration reports they'd like to post? I'm curious as to how well this set competes with the ST30.

were not surpised.. it's just that before people thought it wouldn't work because of the HDMI port issues. and there is only 2 posts in that thread about it.. and then nothing.


i knew this had been done on other models of yesteryear.


i did read of others doing it.. but then nothing.. i assume they did and couldn't figure out the HDMI issue.. which i did. that is all.
 
#31 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by laststop311 /forum/post/20541330


ok so what you are saying exgo with 2 sources you plug them in hdmi port 2 and 4 on the tv? Than you can plug a third in port 3 on the tv? Does hdmi port 1 work too?


or you saying the thing you plug in port 4 doesnt actually work it just enables port 2 and 3 to work so port 1 and 4 dont work but port 2 and 3 do work?

Blwn is Correct. I have 3 ports hooked up. I have access to any 2 i choose so i just use one as an idle port.



I am loving my set now BTW!! it's awesome.
 
#32 ·
Exgo,


Thanks for the help. I am about to buy a 550 TV and I have an HDMI receiver that I plug the DTV and PS3 into so there will only 1 HDMI connected to the TV. If I plug in a device to another HDMI port that I dont plan on using, does that device have to be powered on all the time for the primary HDMI port to work?


Would just plugging in a cable trick it since I have extra HDMI cords.


What dummy device would you suggest if that is necessary.


Oh and good job on this one man.
 
#33 ·
I am thinking you could use your AVR plugging in to circumvent the process.


I think blwn has done this.. but i have to re-read what he wrote in page 1.


I don't think the device has to be on. but it has to have an EDID signal.


but.. more testing just needs to be done.


the thing is.. it's totally doable. and this is great!


i'm sure more workarounds will be found.
 
#34 ·
I was thinking you can get an hdmi splitter for next to nothing. Hdmi cords are cheap.

This is what I am going to do. I prefer everything to run through my avr so I'm gonna split off my hd cable box. Run one to my avr the other to port 2 on my tv. Then the cable that runs from my avr to my tv will go in port 4 and viola. Easiest route I think IMO.
 
#35 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blwn281 /forum/post/20543682


I was thinking you can get an hdmi splitter for next to nothing. Hdmi cords are cheap.

This is what I am going to do. I prefer everything to run through my avr so I'm gonna split off my hd cable box. Run one to my avr the other to port 2 on my tv. Then the cable that runs from my avr to my tv will go in port 4 and viola. Easiest route I think IMO.

i decided to use another source.. my Laptop thru hdmi.


I was using my laptop with HDMI as the idle port.. but needed it because this set won't play some of my SBS h264 mkv ac3 files for 3d.. so i play through my laptop.


I plugged port 1 into the avr output port.. with nothing plugged into my avr inputs.. and then port 3 i plugged in my laptop.


voila! i have my 3 sources working great!
 
#36 ·
A cable between two HDMI ports won't do the trick, I just tried (and I only want to inform you to don't waste your time...).


I don't think it needs an EDID but connection between some pins only. Something which could be emulated by connecting the pins with a simple resistor.
This is a DVI->D-sub(VGA) adapter which emulates a display (so the OS turns on the GPU).
 
#37 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 /forum/post/20543925


A cable between two HDMI ports won't do the trick, I just tried (and I only want to inform you to don't waste your time...).


I don't think it needs an EDID but connection between some pins only. Something which could be emulated by connecting the pins with a simple resistor.
This is a DVI->D-sub(VGA) adapter which emulates a display (so the OS turns on the GPU).

i just have 3 devices plugged in.


then use the output on my AVR (hdmi out) to cover the idle port so i can have 3 hdmi ports working.


I am just matrixing the sound through the d550 to my avr through optical.. and have analog 5.1ch going from HDA1 to my AVR for lossless sound.


Since my ps3 doesn't do lossless it doesn't matter for me.. so i can just go thru the tv for 2.1ch or thru optical that gives me 5.1 dd .
 
#40 ·
This is how I set it up. And when in use hdmi 4 is used as if it where hdmi 2. 2 does not work for signal. 4 will if you if you have 2 hooked up to some sort of hdmi power (idle source). Basically you have to give hdmi 2 a signal even though nothing will come through on your screen to make hdmi 4 work.
 
#41 ·
basically.


if you plug 2 in.. you can have 1 device.


plug 3 devices in you can use 2 device.


plug 4 devices you can have 3 device.


the 4th is just used as an idle.. as in.. something you have access to use. but don't need.. like a HD SAT box or cable box.. that has component and hdmi.. just use it for idle..


then in turn you have access to any of the 3 ports that aren't the idle one.


and vice-versa if you only have 2 devices then you need a 3rd device ((idle))plugged in so u can use both 1,2.


but of course the actual labels of the ports get messed up.. so u have to re-label them.


basically plug 4 devices in.. then check what ones are working in the source menu.


then mix and match so u have all the devices on the ports that you need.
 
#43 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 /forum/post/20552036


A quick question for those who renamed their TVs:

Did it unlock any other 3D formats like checkboard or interlaced?

those are legacy. pretty much only old tv's support those formats now.


so no.


top bottom/ sbs 2d-3d.


it unlocked advanced 10pt


but it did unlock a 3d CMS. I am looking into the firmware situation now.


I want to see if i can put the actual firmware from a 7k on this unit.


i need to analyze it first and stuff. but it might be totally doable. and if that is so.. then we can have all the functions of the smart tv etc.


so???



Has any one else done this??


how is the calibration looking?
 
#47 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blwn281 /forum/post/20553600


It really is possible. Especially to a 6500. They are made with the same panel. The rest is just software. You already can unlock the 10pt Cali and more. When you go to the menu (help) it looks just like the samsung smart. Please figure this out lol

yes, i am going to investigate the firmware. I just have to wait until they release one for the d550 and d6500 so i can hex them up and.


i have allready convinced 2 friends to get this set over the more expensive ones.


since my friend that is a calibrator has light controlled room like me.. Now that we have 10 point advanced pro calibration options and expert patterns.


w00t!



it's up to us buds!


let's keep this thread alive! We all with these sets are on to something big! we have something that is as good as the 3k models and now it is inching to them minus the AR filter.. but pq wize with the Advanced Calibration! we are on to something HUGE..


We HAVE to keep this THREAD alive buds!!!! Get more attention and folks experimenting.. We need more enthusiasts to get on board the d550 train.


but for now we have a small and loyal following.


I will update the main post when we all get going with our calibrations.. and results. I need to get my friend over with his calibration tools.. It would be also great if one of us could get a professional calibrator to calibrate with 10pt calibration ya digs?


it's up to us.. We will pave the way for lots of folks who will hopefully google this thread in the future or on this site because they are researching the best set on the market for CASH/PQ. and come here and read our results.


for the future!!!



-dex
 
#48 ·
There. I updated and cleaned up the first post in the thread with detailed instructions and detailed info on the HDMI port crossmatch issue.


Also added detailed calibration settings for the best settings i've found.. with a couple tweaks you can use if you wish. Also added my best 3d settings too.


enjoi.
 
#49 ·
I'm really interested in giving this a go, as soon as I find a second active hdmi source to unlock a port to use for my bd-d6500.


Do you all think that the settings work work well for the 51 inch. I have read that they may be slightly different from the larger panels.


My screen looks so damn good after I did a few minor tweaks with my untrained eye in the standard menus. I can't wait to see what even better looks like.
 
#50 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by staylorist /forum/post/20554034


I'm really interested in giving this a go, as soon as I find a second active hdmi source to unlock a port to use for my bd-d6500.


Do you all think that the settings work work well for the 51 inch. I have read that they may be slightly different from the larger panels.


My screen looks so damn good after I did a few minor tweaks with my untrained eye in the standard menus. I can't wait to see what even better looks like.

i have the 51" bud. it's awesome!


just wait until you see what the full isf calibrated settings look like when you key in the one at the first post of the thread.


i kid you not. it will BLOW YOU AWAY!.
 
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