PNxxD550 advanced calibration unlocked!/Calibration Thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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Plasma Flat Panel Displays > PNxxD550 advanced calibration unlocked!/Calibration Thread
janos666's Avatar janos666 01:10 PM 06-12-2011
I need only one active input (for my PC), the hard part is to get another (which would be the idle), not that where I put the others (there are no others, I don't have any players or boxes around, only one lonely PC).

But I think I already explained that and it's only my personal problem. I only mentioned it because I am not sure if it will work on the EU model because there are differences, like the disabled Expert menu. (And I only mentioned why I couldn't test it yet... and it's ridiculous how hard it is for me to get a 1$ DVI->HDMI adapter...)

eXgo's Avatar eXgo 01:16 PM 06-12-2011
i see. i think i did read that previous EU models that this hack worked for before.. had been since disabled in the SM for future models.. this is back in the C series of yesteryear btw.. but we don't know yet i guess.
janos666's Avatar janos666 07:21 PM 06-12-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by jahozafat View Post
For example: I stupidly hit the HDMI calibration under ADC/WB. It messed up my color and contrast pretty bad and it said failure next to HDMI calibration. Factory Reset did nothing to fix it. I found the settings it changed and reverted it to the the original by looking at the pictures here. I finally was able to fix it 100% by displaying the correct 8x8 checker board pattern on my PS3 while connected to HDMI 1 and running the HDMI calibration again. Finally it said success again next to HDMI calibration.
I did this too.

However, I found that it's actually a good idea to manually fine-tune those settings.

My calibrated grayscale looks even better after I did this.
Not if the factory settings weren't nice but there was either a very mild black or white crush whatever contrast/brightness setting I tried.

I used nothing else but a full-screen 0% black image. I started from 255-155-255-0-0-0 and I lowered the first three values until the black became black.

The only thing I am not sure about if the last three values should be risen until black would go off again or it should be kept at 0-0-0. But black starts to become gray at 3, so I the valid limit is [0;2], and it doesn't make any noticeable change on the gray gradient if I set it to 2, so I kept it at 0.

-> I talked about the RGB (PC) mode settings here, I didn't mess up the YCC mode yet. May be the YCC mode acts differently and I don't feel the need to readjust these settings for that mode.

---

I will probably set the RGB settings to 128x8 in the SM and use the 10p system only, because I couldn't figure out how to change the picture mode while the SM is active, and it's useless to set up the RGB Gains in the SM while it's in the Dynamic mode, the Movie mode will act differently (I tried).

And I will consider to use the Movie mode for games too because the RGB mode is not too nice. It shows some very noticeable colorizations on the grayscale, however it doesn't feel too slow. (I wouldn't play CS:S with it but I don't play that a long time ago.)

---

It will be funny to do the 10p grayscale and gamut calibration without a nice GUI like CalMan, but I need the adaptive sensor mode for my colormunki, so I will use ArgyllCMS and copy the measurements to my excel sheet for visualization.
mallu2u's Avatar mallu2u 09:24 PM 06-12-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by spectrumbx
My order is in and will be here in a week.
I will try to take some before and after pictures.

Have you tested the DLNA and WIFI features?
K, will try soon
jahozafat's Avatar jahozafat 01:45 AM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post
I did this too.

However, I found that it's actually a good idea to manually fine-tune those settings.

My calibrated grayscale looks even better after I did this.
Not if the factory settings weren't nice but there was either a very mild black or white crush whatever contrast/brightness setting I tried.

I used nothing else but a full-screen 0% black image. I started from 255-155-255-0-0-0 and I lowered the first three values until the black became black.

The only thing I am not sure about if the last three values should be risen until black would go off again or it should be kept at 0-0-0. But black starts to become gray at 3, so I the valid limit is [0;2], and it doesn't make any noticeable change on the gray gradient if I set it to 2, so I kept it at 0.

-> I talked about the RGB (PC) mode settings here, I didn't mess up the YCC mode yet. May be the YCC mode acts differently and I don't feel the need to readjust these settings for that mode.

---

I will probably set the RGB settings to 128x8 in the SM and use the 10p system only, because I couldn't figure out how to change the picture mode while the SM is active, and it's useless to set up the RGB Gains in the SM while it's in the Dynamic mode, the Movie mode will act differently (I tried).

And I will consider to use the Movie mode for games too because the RGB mode is not too nice. It shows some very noticeable colorizations on the grayscale, however it doesn't feel too slow. (I wouldn't play CS:S with it but I don't play that a long time ago.)

---

It will be funny to do the 10p grayscale and gamut calibration without a nice GUI like CalMan, but I need the adaptive sensor mode for my colormunki, so I will use ArgyllCMS and copy the measurements to my excel sheet for visualization.
I decided to play around with those settings in my PC Mode as well. You're not kidding when you say it's hard to mess with it while in SM Dynamic mode.

I then for the heck of it tried the PC Calibration with the Checker pattern I used to get for HDMI Calibration to get that to Success. Of course on PC Calibration I got failure lol. I noticed that the Pink square that shows up was off of one of the checkers by a couple of pixels so I tried editing the image and moved the image up two pixels and voila I got Success.

I did notice however that it changed my values a bit:

My Default ADC Result PC Values
1st_Y_GH 326
1st_Y_GL 17
1st_Cb_BH 326
1st_Cb_BL 16
1st_Cr_RH 326
1st_Cr_RL 16
2nd_R_L 196
2nd_G_L 196
2nd_B_L 196
2nd_R_H 15
2nd_G_H 15
2nd_B_H 15

Changed ADC Result PC Values with my edited Pattern after successful PC calibration:
1st_Y_GH 330
1st_Y_GL 17
1st_Cb_BH 326
1st_Cb_BL 16
1st_Cr_RH 335
1st_Cr_RL 16
2nd_R_L 198
2nd_G_L 198
2nd_B_L 198
2nd_R_H 15
2nd_G_H 15
2nd_B_H 15

I decided to keep the second set of values. I really can't tell the difference between the two but I figure I can always change them back to the defaults.

Everyone keep in mind that the default ADC Results are different for each input type.

For example the default HDMI ADC Results are:
1st_Y_GH 0
1st_Y_GL 0
1st_Cb_BH 0
1st_Cb_BL 0
1st_Cr_RH 0
1st_Cr_RL 0
2nd_R_L 134
2nd_G_L 134
2nd_B_L 134
2nd_R_H 49
2nd_G_H 49
2nd_B_H 49

Don't try this at home. I don't know what any of this stuff really means.
janos666's Avatar janos666 09:28 AM 06-13-2011
The HDMI trick works on the EU models too!

I connected my real HDMI output to port 4 and the fake device is connected to port 1. This way I can select port 1 in the OSD and everything seems to work as before.
Bobdlux's Avatar Bobdlux 10:42 AM 06-13-2011
I just traded in a d490 for this one yesterday. I wanted to thank everyone in this thread who has supplied information. The picture is phenomenal in my opinion! Thank you all very much!
obveron's Avatar obveron 11:45 AM 06-13-2011
Does this change the input lag of the TV at all?
eXgo's Avatar eXgo 02:34 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post

The HDMI trick works on the EU models too!

I connected my real HDMI output to port 4 and the fake device is connected to port 1. This way I can select port 1 in the OSD and everything seems to work as before.

great janos.

To all that have a PS3 and is doing this hack.

Please test the following.

Crossmatch the ports you need.. making sure the ps3 is crossmatched. (crossmatching only really is of total use if you are using 4 ports)

Idle port still applies if you are using say 2 or 3 its essentially still a crossmatch because you need the opposite side for it to work *idle port* and if you crossmatch the idle port.. the idle port will function.. and so on and so forth.

In this thread. the term crossmatching is to denote the unusual problem we have when needing a port to function correctly. you need a matched port on the other side.. (cross-match). the crossmatching is normally fine because we usually have all the devices on and plugged in via hdmi in the chain and of course having the (idle port).. so if all devices function correctly and the idle port is working then crossmatching is fine.

but.. when you have an idle port and another link in the chain(ps3-hdmi) that turns off.. it can cause issues with crossmatching. (e.g. the port crossmatching to the ps3 will cease to function.. causing a chain problem...

this can be moot if you just crossmatch the port to an port that doesn't need to be used all the time.. and again.. this may not be an issue to all.. and just my bug.

it's just good to hash this out.. i was going to post more about the crossmatching but needed to figure out some more things first. now i have posted it we can see what if any other issues we have.

you an see the crossmatch for your ownself by plugging in each port via hdmi. then checking all sources. now unplug each one and you see that they are all matched to one another.

The crossmatching theory that i have found negates the idle port.. because if you have all 4 ports plugged in and HOT WIRED to a LIVE SOUCE... All Ports Function Fine!

Hence the Crossmatching.

so... there it is.

I am going to post this in the first part of the thread now that I have confrmed this.

so. I have found that when the PS3 turns off.. i lose the port on the menu and thus also the loss of the crossmatched port. (the port tied to it.).

when the PS3 is turned on again.. the matched port came back.

I haven't done enough testing in regards to this issue.. but what i did was crossmatched it to a port that I didn't need all day every day.. ya dig?

thanks all whom have been contributing to this thread. we are already at page 4!!!

keep up the calibrations and settings.

oh, and Janos, did you miss that question i posted to you in the official pdxxd550 thread?

I was wondering if you use the game-mode function in the general menu?

thanks

dex

edit:: first post updated with crossmatching theory for use of all 4 ports..
eXgo's Avatar eXgo 02:35 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by obveron View Post

Does this change the input lag of the TV at all?

this? as in the hack?

are you speaking of input lag in general? like pushing buttons on remote?

or input lag via PS3 or X360?

thanks

specifics are good
janos666's Avatar janos666 04:50 PM 06-13-2011
I spent almost two hours with calibration. I wasn't sure if it worth it when I finished.


I spent a lot of time playing with the Custom Color Space setup and now I can't really notice any differences between Custom and Auto with my naked eyes on real-life image contents (sometimes it's hard to tell if it's Auto or Native if there is no either saturated green or red on the display...).

But the sensor said I adjusted this 6 points of the gamut with ~1 dE2000 precision, and my favorite "6-axial CMS fault test" says the processing is not perfect but acceptable (probably causes less errors than the differences which it is supposed to compensate...) and my Custom mode setup seems to cause slightly less artifacts. So, may be it wasn't superfluous to do.


The 10p gray balance was an easier job but it wasn't too fast either (many points...).

I am not sure if it worth it or not because I can still see some imperfections when I am staring at the 8-bit gray gradient test pattern.
10 points are simply not enough to make it "perfect" and the proper solution for this is an internal hardware LUT. Ohh... or a 3DLUT to take care about the Gamut as well.

However, these small imperfections can't ruin the overall high picture quality feeling when I watch a real movie or play a game.


I used the PC mode for games, because it's better than Game mode. It fully reproduces the RGB 4:4:4 input, not like any other modes and I didn't measure it but I think it's at least as fast as Game mode or even faster if there is a difference (It would be logical if it does even less processing -- no RGB->YCC and yet another YCC->RGB steps -- but who knows what really happens inside the "black box"...).

However, now that I spent so much time with calibrating the Movie mode, I gave it a chance again because I suspected (from the mouse movements on the Windows desktop during the calibration) that the last firmware update (1018) may reduced the input lag of the Movie mode. (It also made the OSD smoother!)

And I decided to use the Movie mode for games as well, because after all those fine tunings which I made today for the Movie mode, it's definitely more accurate than PC mode and the 4:2:2 chroma sub-sampling doesn't look that bad now. (I think I saw something else --which is gone now-- and I declared it it as chroma sub-sampling artifact because it could have been...)

And I don't play games like CS:S since 2006, so may be I am not the person to judge about it without objective measurements, but I think the input lag is acceptable with the Movie mode too. (But I have the 1018 firmware and I am sure it was slower at the first day I set it up, that's why I was a "PC mode fan".)


-------

I do not recommend to copy my settings (of course, you are free to do so...), I just place them here to see how does it differs from other's settings...

I used a 23.976Hz Full Range RGB signal with CinemaSmooth but CS doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference with 60Hz. (And I prefer the correct cadence over the slightly higher contrast ratio...)

First I reset my WB calibration settings in the SM to 128x8. (I couldn't touch the movie mode values however.)

Then I used the 8x8 (inverted) checkerboard to freshly run a HDMI calibration. (I played with it because I could improve the PC mode with this but the results of the automatic calibration looks fine with the normal YCC mode...)

And here are my user menu settings (I borrowed the template from the first post):

Mode:Movie
-------------
Cell Light---20
Contrast---95
Brightness---54
Sharpness---18
Color---50
Tint---50/50
Black Tone---off
Dynamic---off
Gamma--- 0
Rgb Only---off
Flesh Tone---0
Motion Light---off
xvYcc---off
Color Tone---warm2
Digital Noise---off
Mpeg Noise---off
----------------
Color Space
_______
Red_r-----50
Red_g-----42
Red_b-----31
_______
Green_r-----78
Green_g-----48
Green_b-----0
_______
Blue_r-----10
Blue_g-----11
Blue_b-----50
_______
Yellow_r-----48
Yellow_g-----50
Yellow_b-----43
_______
Cyan_r-----100
Cyan_g-----44
Cyan_b-----45
_______
Magenta_r-----49
Magenta_g-----48
Magenta_b-----50
________________
White Balance
----------------
r_offset-----25
g_offset-----25
b_offset-----25
r_gain-----39
b_gain-----25
g_gain-----29
________________
10 Point Calibration
-----------------------
r1--------(0
g1-------(0
b1-------(+1

r2-------(-1
g2-------(0
b2-------(+1

r3-------(-1
g3-------(0
b3-------(0

r4-------(-1
g4-------(0
b4-------(+2

r5-------(-1
g5-------(0
b5-------(-1

r6-------(-2
g6-------(0
b6-------(-1

r7-------(-2
g7-------(0
b7-------(+2

r8-------(0
g8-------(0
b8-------(+1

r9-------(+1
g9-------(0
b9-------(-2

r10-------(0 (-> Why the hell would anybody change this if he used the Gains earlier?)
g10-------(0
b10-------(0

----

These are for 2D, I didn't calibrated the 3D mode yet. But that mode doesn't have 10p gray scale and I guess I could start from these Color Space values there. But it's not that easy to place an operating glass between the panel and the sensor and I don't have any 3D movies at hand which I didn't watch already (before the renaming).


----


I think I would be able to make it clear for you how the HDMI ports behave now (your crossmatch issue) but not in English.
obveron's Avatar obveron 05:01 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by eXgo View Post

this? as in the hack?

are you speaking of input lag in general? like pushing buttons on remote?

or input lag via PS3 or X360?

thanks

specifics are good

I'm wondering if theses hacked ISF modes add lag to the HDMI inputs affecting gaming, PS3, 360, PC etc.
eXgo's Avatar eXgo 05:47 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by obveron View Post

I'm wondering if theses hacked ISF modes add lag to the HDMI inputs affecting gaming, PS3, 360, PC etc.

no they do not.
eXgo's Avatar eXgo 05:57 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post

I spent almost two hours with calibration. I wasn't sure if it worth it when I finished.


I spent a lot of time playing with the Custom Color Space setup and now I can't really notice any differences between Custom and Auto with my naked eyes on real-life image contents (sometimes it's hard to tell if it's Auto or Native if there is no either saturated green or red on the display...).

But the sensor said I adjusted this 6 points of the gamut with ~1 dE2000 precision, and my favorite "6-axial CMS fault test" says the processing is not perfect but acceptable (probably causes less errors than the differences which it is supposed to compensate...) and my Custom mode setup seems to cause slightly less artifacts. So, may be it wasn't superfluous to do.


The 10p gray balance was an easier job but it wasn't too fast either (many points...).

I am not sure if it worth it or not because I can still see some imperfections when I am staring at the 8-bit gray gradient test pattern.
10 points are simply not enough to make it "perfect" and the proper solution for this is an internal hardware LUT. Ohh... or a 3DLUT to take care about the Gamut as well.

However, these small imperfections can't ruin the overall high picture quality feeling when I watch a real movie or play a game.


I used the PC mode for games, because it's better than Game mode. It fully reproduces the RGB 4:4:4 input, not like any other modes and I didn't measure it but I think it's at least as fast as Game mode or even faster if there is a difference (It would be logical if it does even less processing -- no RGB->YCC and yet another YCC->RGB steps -- but who knows what really happens inside the "black box"...).

However, now that I spent so much time with calibrating the Movie mode, I gave it a chance again because I suspected (from the mouse movements on the Windows desktop during the calibration) that the last firmware update (1018) may reduced the input lag of the Movie mode. (It also made the OSD smoother!)

And I decided to use the Movie mode for games as well, because after all those fine tunings which I made today for the Movie mode, it's definitely more accurate than PC mode and the 4:2:2 chroma sub-sampling doesn't look that bad now. (I think I saw something else --which is gone now-- and I declared it it as chroma sub-sampling artifact because it could have been...)

And I don't play games like CS:S since 2006, so may be I am not the person to judge about it without objective measurements, but I think the input lag is acceptable with the Movie mode too. (But I have the 1018 firmware and I am sure it was slower at the first day I set it up, that's why I was a "PC mode fan".)


-------

I do not recommend to copy my settings (of course, you are free to do so...), I just place them here to see how does it differs from other's settings...

I used a 23.976Hz Full Range RGB signal with CinemaSmooth but CS doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference with 60Hz. (And I prefer the correct cadence over the slightly higher contrast ratio...)

First I reset my WB calibration settings in the SM to 128x8. (I couldn't touch the movie mode values however.)

Then I used the 8x8 (inverted) checkerboard to freshly run a HDMI calibration. (I played with it because I could improve the PC mode with this but the results of the automatic calibration looks fine with the normal YCC mode...)

And here are my user menu settings (I borrowed the template from the first post):

Mode:Movie
-------------
Cell Light---20
Contrast---95
Brightness---54
Sharpness---18
Color---50
Tint---50/50
Black Tone---off
Dynamic---off
Gamma--- 0
Rgb Only---off
Flesh Tone---0
Motion Light---off
xvYcc---off
Color Tone---warm2
Digital Noise---off
Mpeg Noise---off
----------------
Color Space
_______
Red_r-----50
Red_g-----42
Red_b-----31
_______
Green_r-----78
Green_g-----48
Green_b-----0
_______
Blue_r-----10
Blue_g-----11
Blue_b-----50
_______
Yellow_r-----48
Yellow_g-----50
Yellow_b-----43
_______
Cyan_r-----100
Cyan_g-----44
Cyan_b-----45
_______
Magenta_r-----49
Magenta_g-----48
Magenta_b-----50
________________
White Balance
----------------
r_offset-----25
g_offset-----25
b_offset-----25
r_gain-----39
b_gain-----25
g_gain-----29
________________
10 Point Calibration
-----------------------
r1--------(0
g1-------(0
b1-------(+1

r2-------(-1
g2-------(0
b2-------(+1

r3-------(-1
g3-------(0
b3-------(0

r4-------(-1
g4-------(0
b4-------(+2

r5-------(-1
g5-------(0
b5-------(-1

r6-------(-2
g6-------(0
b6-------(-1

r7-------(-2
g7-------(0
b7-------(+2

r8-------(0
g8-------(0
b8-------(+1

r9-------(+1
g9-------(0
b9-------(-2

r10-------(0 (-> Why the hell would anybody change this if he used the Gains earlier?)
g10-------(0
b10-------(0

----

These are for 2D, I didn't calibrated the 3D mode yet. But that mode doesn't have 10p gray scale and I guess I could start from these Color Space values there. But it's not that easy to place an operating glass between the panel and the sensor and I don't have any 3D movies at hand which I didn't watch already (before the renaming).


----


I think I would be able to make it clear for you how the HDMI ports behave now (your crossmatch issue) but not in English.

Good Stuff bud.

Yup, I understand the crossmatch issue.

My friend came over and calibrated my set with his tools..

no point in posting settings beyond the starting values of which i allready posted.

my set looks great for PQ. he gave me 3 custom modes movie, cal-day-night. and i am using pc mode for gaming too.

Game Mode isn't that great for me.

I am mostly playing FF XIII and MK9, SSFIV and MvC3 . I also play CS:S

but haven't in a while. I got a Clevo X7200 gaming laptop with dual GTX480 and I7930 processor. it's not a bad laptop. lol, it costed 3x as much as my TV.. funny cuz i was going to buy a VT25 waybackwhen.. but i opted for this laptop now.

still i have the issue with ps3 though. but i just crossmatched it to a port i don't need much.

This set gets easy IR/Burn in.

I don't know how u would use a PC on it ... if you watch even 1 channel for 1-2 hours.. you get a ticker IR'ed into the bottom corner which takes up to 6 hours to get rid of.

I am scared to watch pc on it. .i just use it for watching 3d sbs.

jeeze.. i am scared to play games..

I watched a 2:40:1 movie and now i have uneven phosphor burn age because of the black bars on the top.

I think i will maybe start playing games after 600 or so hours.. with even phosphor aging.

funny i had a CRT barco 1209 fully calibrated and never had any phosphor problems with this.

hey, janos do you have any of those so-called brightness pops?

and did you measure your blacks with a meter?

you have the 51" right?
Renegade4x4's Avatar Renegade4x4 06:09 PM 06-13-2011
First time post but longtime reader on here. I switched to d7000 tonight and used my laptop as the idle input. It worked fine and i have all the options! I switched it back until i find a better solution than always having the laptop hooked up as idle. Right now everything goes through my receiver so only one input is used. My idea is similar to anothers on here. I am buying a HDMI splitter and going to split my dvr. One is going to my receiver (as usual) and the other is going to the idle port. This should solve this issue right?

Chris
eXgo's Avatar eXgo 06:15 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade4x4 View Post

First time post but longtime reader on here. I switched to d7000 tonight and used my laptop as the idle input. It worked fine and i have all the options! I switched it back until i find a better solution than always having the laptop hooked up as idle. Right now everything goes through my receiver so only one input is used. My idea is similar to anothers on here. I am buying a HDMI splitter and going to split my dvr. One is going to my receiver (as usual) and the other is going to the idle port. This should solve this issue right?

Chris

why not just matrix the sound through the tv? and use the hdmi out as the idle port. and direct connect other devices to set?

also you could use component for a connection since it does 1080i and hdmi on the same unit to be idle.

or read my crossmatch post and connect 4 devices so it works for all 4.

the hd sat box is my current idle port trick.. although i am using all 4 ports as of now.

i am using the sat box for hdmi but watching on component since it outputs all simultaneously.
spectrumbx's Avatar spectrumbx 06:17 PM 06-13-2011
Can we get some pics from others?
This thread is great and all, but we need to get a good sense of what we are getting and if it is worth it.

All I need is great 2D PQ for a light controlled room.
In my mind, I think TVs with none of those tricks to minimize glare have a greater potential for better PQ in a controlled setting (just go LCD if lighting is an issue as half a glare is still a glare).
eXgo's Avatar eXgo 06:43 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by spectrumbx View Post

Can we get some pics from others?
This thread is great and all, but we need to get a good sense of what we are getting and if it is worth it.

All I need is great 2D PQ for a light controlled room.
In my mind, I think TVs with none of those tricks to minimize glare have a greater potential for better PQ in a controlled setting (just go LCD if lighting is an issue as half a glare is still a glare).

i agree

janos.. you have done this. please post some pics bud.

and other please post some pictures for our thread.
janos666's Avatar janos666 06:46 PM 06-13-2011
I am still not sure what exactly "brightness pop" is.

The ABL works as it works on almost any plasma which I saw. There is also a slight floating black effect sometimes. (Well, was with PC mode, I didn't notice it since I use Movie for games too.)


I just posted the settings to show how huge the differences are between those and my color space settings. But my settings are very close (visually) to Auto, so I think I set it up correctly. Because of this, I am not sure if those settings give you a good starting point.


I posted some measurements in the "official D550 topic" (about a month ago?).


I did a hard break-in with the built-in scrolling gradient. I constantly ran it for a few days. And it still wasn't enough, I had some long lasting IR in the first few weeks. But now I can do whatever I want, everything fades away after ~20 minutes which I can cause with normal usage (like playing with HUDs or writing long forum posts...).


----------------

@spectrumbx

Photos simply make no sense! (Don't even start arguing, they DO NOT!!!)
You should have a calibrated camera and display (with a gamut which is wide enough) and 3D CMS to reproduce the colors. And it still won't make that possible what you expect from those pictures. They can't help in this!

Or did I misunderstand that? I can make some photos of the unlocked menu items if you wish. (Well, tomorrow, it's time to sleep...)
eXgo's Avatar eXgo 06:48 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post

I am still not sure what exactly "brightness pop" is.

The ABL works as it works on almost any plasma which I saw. There is also a slight floating black effect sometimes. (Well, was with PC mode, I didn't notice it since I use Movie for games too.)


I just posted the settings to show how huge the differences are between those and my color space settings. But my settings are very close (visually) to Auto, so I think I set it up correctly. Because of this, I am not sure if those settings give you a good starting point.


I posted some measurements in the "official D550 topic" (about a month ago?).


I did a hard break-in with the built-in scrolling gradient. I constantly ran it for a few days. And it still wasn't enough, I had some long lasting IR in the first few weeks. But now I can do whatever I want, everything fades away after ~20 minutes which I can cause with normal usage (like playing with HUDs or writing long forum posts...).


----------------

@spectrumbx

Photos simply make no sense! (Don't even start arguing, they DO NOT!!!)
You should have a calibrated camera and display (with a gamut which is wide enough) and 3D CMS to reproduce the colors. And it still won't make that possible what you expect from those pictures. They can't help in this!

people like photos. we aren't arguing.

i am going to post some
joe801's Avatar joe801 06:49 PM 06-13-2011
So I just did the unlock and used different settings from user's on here. But the one problem I'm having is. I need to have another source on. For another source to work. Am I doing something wrong? I followed everything that was written on the first page.
eXgo's Avatar eXgo 06:52 PM 06-13-2011


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i posted some.. they look like crap the way the get interpolated through imagecrap.us...

with the flash the colors are more represent.. but still.



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cummon guys.. humour the peeps that want pics..

i know they don't mean nothing.. but people like em.



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eXgo's Avatar eXgo 06:55 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe801 View Post

So I just did the unlock and used different settings from user's on here. But the one problem I'm having is. I need to have another source on. For another source to work. Am I doing something wrong? I followed everything that was written on the first page.

if u read the thread you would have known that this is the idle problem (crossmatch)
spectrumbx's Avatar spectrumbx 07:47 PM 06-13-2011
@janos666
Yes, between the camera and the display used to view the picture a lot of the information will be lost or skewed.
However, you are underestimating the power of the brain to equalize things.

@eXgo
Try this (you will need a tripod):
- turn the lights on in the room or try during day time
- pause the TV on some HD material (need a clear image)
- switch your camera to manual
- select a slow ISO (100 or 200)
- select a small aperture (like f/8)
- now try to find the slowest shutter speed that does not cause any blur

Or, you can try the aperture priority (Av) mode on your camera.

Note: I don't really know what I am talking about, but I figure it can't be worst that the pics you are taking.

Thanks bud for all your efforts.
eXgo's Avatar eXgo 08:43 PM 06-13-2011


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millertime50's Avatar millertime50 08:45 PM 06-13-2011
i switched my 59D550 today to the d7000.. i used the settings in the first post.. wow what a differance.. Thanks for posting all this info... i tryed to use one HDMI to my Denon reciver to have the one you do not use, but it would not work.. i had to hook up my extra blu-ray player.. i found with my reciver you can not use the anynet or it kepts swiching it to differant HDMI ports then you want when i switch it to run the blu-ray player i want to use.. but anywy it all works..,. Thanks agin..........
Blwn281's Avatar Blwn281 08:59 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by eXgo View Post


cummon guys.. humour the peeps that want pics..

i know they don't mean nothing.. but people like em.
]

Could you not use something better than a horrible game that vancouver should have won they'll just have to take it at home
eXgo's Avatar eXgo 09:17 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime50 View Post

i switched my 59D550 today to the d7000.. i used the settings in the first post.. wow what a differance.. Thanks for posting all this info... i tryed to use one HDMI to my Denon reciver to have the one you do not use, but it would not work.. i had to hook up my extra blu-ray player.. i found with my reciver you can not use the anynet or it kepts swiching it to differant HDMI ports then you want when i switch it to run the blu-ray player i want to use.. but anywy it all works..,. Thanks agin..........

no... thank you!


for reading the thread and follwoing throughl.

Please post your hack and firware version.. and your settings too... oh and if you have any brightness pops that talks are talking about at death..

some do.

i have older FW from early FEB. /11'

GOOD Blaks too!
staylorist's Avatar staylorist 10:17 PM 06-13-2011
I'm still unable to try this because I don't have a second HDMI source.

I was thinking of making an HDMI dummy plug that folding at home folders use to trick their graphics cards into thinking that there is a monitor plugged in, but I don't know if it will work and I'm afraid of frying something in my TV.

So Anynet doesn't work with this? Damn I love that feature.
eXgo's Avatar eXgo 10:21 PM 06-13-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by staylorist View Post
I'm still unable to try this because I don't have a second HDMI source.

I was thinking of making an HDMI dummy plug that folding at home folders use to trick their graphics cards into thinking that there is a monitor plugged in, but I don't know if it will work and I'm afraid of frying something in my TV.

So Anynet doesn't work with this? Damn I love that feature.
try getting a 20$ dvd player with hdmi?

use the out port on your hdmi on your AVR. worked for me.

or use a receiver that has HDMI and Component.

run both and use the hdmi to do the idle port and wath tv with the component; no change in PQ
Tags: Panasonic , Samsung Ln40d550 40 Inch 1080p 60 Hz Lcd Hdtv , Lcd Hdtv
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