The Official Panasonic GT30 Settings Thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 1307 Old 02-11-2012, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tjkl View Post

MrVizio,

These numbers are offsets. -9 means you reduce whatever value you have by 9 (click Vol- on the remote 9 times while on the value).

Thank you. I already know to be careful and write my original settings down.

Just curious, what mode do you put the SM into? When I entered mine it was in Vivid by default.
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post #542 of 1307 Old 02-11-2012, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DR.DTS View Post

I'm just getting around to playing more XBox on the GT30. I was a bit skeptical until I had more time on the set. I didn't start playing till i reached the 50 hr mark. I've mainly played Batman:AC since it doesn't have any stationary images (score counters). I did finally play Gears 3 last night.

I tried Game and while it was good a bit to vibrant much like Vivid. And Cinema didn't seem bright enough. So last night with Gears I used the THX settings with zero adjustments and actually thought it looked really good. In fact it looked better than it ever did on the Sony LCD we had. I may toy around some more but THX looked just fine.

+2. Really digging THX for games. And you can always increase the brightness if you want more light or are in a brighter room. So far 75 for games, for me, looks great.
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post #543 of 1307 Old 02-11-2012, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by datman View Post

Yea it has been a problem with this shutter thing. My BD player @ 24p is fine. I had 1st thought it was my OB graphics and I ordered a Sapphire Radeon HD5450 and will install that on Tuesday. It should help with outer issues I'm having with PDVD 11.

Are you familiar with reclock? I have never been able to use it because it never worked with the OEM TMT3 that came with my xonar hdav 1.3 it is said to give me lossless audio to the analogs. When I tried reclock with PDVD 11 it confirmed I also get LL audio but the color calibration was way off but the motion was better. So I decided to uninstall Zoomplayer and all its programs and the color was better, still over saturated but watch able.

I ended up lowering the color from 45 to 30 and it looked pretty good. The motion was near 100% I could only see defects now and then and my wife would even see them. She preferred this picture to the TMT3 player we had just watched. So try reclock its free and see if it helps.

Thanks for this post. Will DEF try Reclock. I have an older Nvidia graphics card on the downstairs PC. It has HDMI out, but I'm probably going to upgrade it since that computer is used primarily for watching stuff.

I did try changing the card to 24hz from 60hz. And it helped out a bit. And the TV recognized it as a 24p source. But then you have to deal with a stuttering mouse. Plus, not everything I watch is 24p, though the majority of it is.
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post #544 of 1307 Old 02-11-2012, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MrVizio View Post

Thank you. I already know to be careful and write my original settings down.

Just curious, what mode do you put the SM into? When I entered mine it was in Vivid by default.

Picture mode does not matter, you can make the adjutment in Vivid. Temperature should be Warm.
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post #545 of 1307 Old 02-12-2012, 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by gadianton View Post


One question I have is which 3d glasses are the best to use. Is there any consensus?

Thanks.

I just realized that my previous reply on 3D glasses should have suggested searching a different thread, not this one. Try a search of Official Panasonic GT30 Series Discussion Thread [No Price Talk] http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1325398
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post #546 of 1307 Old 02-12-2012, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by RobMeyer1 View Post


I just realized that my previous reply on 3D glasses should have suggested searching a different thread, not this one. Try a search of Official Panasonic GT30 Series Discussion Thread [No Price Talk] http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1325398

Thanks. I'd like to get the Panasonic ones, but I can't find anyplace that has them for a decent price. I'll check out that thread.
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post #547 of 1307 Old 02-12-2012, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by MrVizio View Post

+2. Really digging THX for games. And you can always increase the brightness if you want more light or are in a brighter room. So far 75 for games, for me, looks great.

EDIT: I meant CONTRAST to 75. NOT brightness.
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post #548 of 1307 Old 02-12-2012, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by tjkl View Post

Picture mode does not matter, you can make the adjutment in Vivid. Temperature should be Warm.

Thanks.
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post #549 of 1307 Old 02-13-2012, 09:55 AM
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Tjkl,

So I finally ventured into the service menu and applied your settings. Now my TV is bricked. JK!!!

You know, they looked good, but I'm not quite sure what they did. I reverted back to my default settings simply because I didn't immediately notice a big enough difference to keep them. Plus, all displays are unique.

In all fairness, I didn't give them a very long run.

I've reread your SM settings post a few times, but could you explain in real world/practical terms what exactly they did to improve your PQ?

Basically, what was bugging you that motivated you to go through the trouble to change them.

Thanks
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post #550 of 1307 Old 02-13-2012, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrVizio View Post
I've reread your SM settings post a few times, but could you explain in real world/practical terms what exactly they did to improve your PQ?

Basically, what was bugging you that motivated you to go through the trouble to change them.

Thanks
MrVizio,

You are right in that all displays are unique, and even more, each person is unique in their color perception and preferences.

After 2.1 upgrade, I thought that the THX mode was a little on the green side to my eyes. So, I ran the grey scale measurements with i1 Display 2 sensor and ColorHCFR. It showed that the RGB levels were quite off, and so I tried to adjust them. Other than being a little greenish to me, the THX mode with default settings is very good.

Just FYI, I'm attaching a calibration report with pre-calibration RGB levels and post-calibration graphs.

 

THX.pdf 233.5205078125k . file
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post #551 of 1307 Old 02-13-2012, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MrVizio View Post

First you can see the wall with the TV (2nd image). It's about 13 ft. from the corner to the end of the fire place.

Then there's the adjacent wall with the big window (1st image), which is about 12 ft from the corner to where it dips into the dining area.

The opposing wall is completely useless (3rd image). You enter, followed by a big bulge from the bathroom, then the door to garage and the stairs.

I have about 15 feet available from the current TV "nook" to where the bar/kitchen begins.

Hope this all makes sense.

Thanks everyone.


if it we me, I would have covered the top half of the wall with Drywall, sturdy enough to handle a 65 inch. AND keep the lower half open to slide in a Rack or shelving to house the amps, recivers and players so all will be flush against the wall. might as well put in youe speakers flush mounted on the wall.
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post #552 of 1307 Old 02-14-2012, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by tjkl View Post

MrVizio,

You are right in that all displays are unique, and even more, each person is unique in their color perception and preferences.

After 2.1 upgrade, I thought that the THX mode was a little on the green side to my eyes. So, I ran the grey scale measurements with i1 Display 2 sensor and ColorHCFR. It showed that the RGB levels were quite off, and so I tried to adjust them. Other than being a little greenish to me, the THX mode with default settings is very good.

Just FYI, I'm attaching a calibration report with pre-calibration RGB levels and post-calibration graphs.

Awesome, thanks!
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post #553 of 1307 Old 02-14-2012, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jcmusika View Post

if it we me, I would have covered the top half of the wall with Drywall, sturdy enough to handle a 65 inch. AND keep the lower half open to slide in a Rack or shelving to house the amps, recivers and players so all will be flush against the wall. might as well put in youe speakers flush mounted on the wall.

This is what I'm leaning towards. Just not sure how to get around the fireplace switches.
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post #554 of 1307 Old 02-14-2012, 11:42 PM
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I assume Ken's settings are good for the St30 panny as well? I havent made up my mind yet on which set to get yet.
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post #555 of 1307 Old 02-15-2012, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by danny001 View Post

I assume Ken's settings are good for the St30 panny as well? I havent made up my mind yet on which set to get yet.

I've had both sets, and although they are similar, I'm not so sure Ken's GT30 settings will translate accurately over to the ST30. You could always go the D-nice route.

Also, keep in mind, the new 2.1 luminance patch isn't available for the ST30 models (AFAIK).

What size were you looking at getting?
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post #556 of 1307 Old 02-15-2012, 03:54 AM
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55 inch on both gt30 and st30 whichever I choose Mr. Vizio. I'm leanin toward the gt30 cuz I was in a bb and they had gt30 that just looked beautiful wasn't pic perfect due to lighting but it was damn close.
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post #557 of 1307 Old 02-15-2012, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by danny001 View Post

55 inch on both gt30 and st30 whichever I choose Mr. Vizio. I'm leanin toward the gt30 cuz I was in a bb and they had gt30 that just looked beautiful wasn't pic perfect due to lighting but it was damn close.

I responded to your original post/thread about LED vs Plasma blacks,

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post21647723

but I'll cut and paste the relevant parts here:

Danny,

... in a very dark environment the ST30 would probably suffice. But I would urge you to consider the GT30 as it can go a bit brighter (if need be - via the 2.1 luminance patch), plus games look fantastic to me on THX mode.

Right now Best Buy is selling the 55GT30 for $400 dollars more than the 55ST30. But if you check Frys website you will see that they are selling the 55GT30 for just $100 dollars more than BB is selling the 55ST30.

I would go to BB and have them price match the great price on the 55GT30 that Frys is offering.

For $100 more I would HIGHLY recommend the GT over the ST. THX alone is easily worth it, especially if you never plan on having the set pro calibrated. Also, the bezel looks nicer.

Hope this helps some, and good luck.
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post #558 of 1307 Old 02-15-2012, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrVizio View Post

This is what I'm leaning towards. Just not sure how to get around the fireplace switches.

What is your concern? How to turn the fireplace on/off if you build around it, or the location of the switch?
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post #559 of 1307 Old 02-15-2012, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Aliens View Post

What is your concern? How to turn the fireplace on/off if you build around it, or the location of the switch?

I guess both. These two things. I'm not very experienced as a handyman, but I'm always willing to give it a shot. Still, I may have to hire someone.
LL
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post #560 of 1307 Old 02-15-2012, 08:17 AM
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Okay, here is what I would do.

Resale. Before I start any project that is the first thing I think of. Will what I’ve done be practical for a potential buyer and, if not, what do I have to do to restore it to its original appearance.

I see no reason to build up or use a mount. Fireplace switch and gas valve solved. I believe someone suggested building a stand and sliding it in the alcove. You’d have the TV on top and your equipment on shelves below. That is about as simple as you can get and I would agree with that; only I would do something a little different. I would extend the stand a foot beyond the fireplace and run it to the end of the wall where you have your table. I think a 4X8* sheet of ¾” Luan would be long enough. Remove the table and place your sub (I believe that is what I see by the table) in the corner. The top of that shelf extension would be flush with the windowsill. The shelf should be wide enough to place your lamp and whatever else you’d like on it. On the shelf below you could store CDs, DVDs, place your front R speaker and sub, or whatever you like there. That would make that area less cluttered and more open. The rear of the stand that is tucked into the alcove would need to be secured because it would be front-heavy. By extending the front of the stand, this would allow you to shift the TV toward the window and away from the fireplace giving you a little more balance on that wall. The only thing I don’t like about this idea, and you and your wife may agree, is that with it being extended by a foot it would not be flush with the fireplace. A little design creativity on that end could soften that look so that it wouldn’t be so squared.

When you’re ready to move; remove the screws holding the rear in place, slide it out, patch the holes, and you are done. Just my 2 cents.

*This would be one solid piece that would be notched to slide into the alcove. Materials to do this entire project would be somewhere between 50 and 100 dollars.
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post #561 of 1307 Old 02-15-2012, 09:41 PM
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What happens to the picture when it's set to either off/photo/graphics?
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post #562 of 1307 Old 02-16-2012, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aliens View Post

Okay, here is what I would do.

Resale. Before I start any project that is the first thing I think of. Will what I've done be practical for a potential buyer and, if not, what do I have to do to restore it to its original appearance.

I see no reason to build up or use a mount. Fireplace switch and gas valve solved. I believe someone suggested building a stand and sliding it in the alcove. You'd have the TV on top and your equipment on shelves below. That is about as simple as you can get and I would agree with that; only I would do something a little different. I would extend the stand a foot beyond the fireplace and run it to the end of the wall where you have your table. I think a 4X8* sheet of ¾ Luan would be long enough. Remove the table and place your sub (I believe that is what I see by the table) in the corner. The top of that shelf extension would be flush with the windowsill. The shelf should be wide enough to place your lamp and whatever else you'd like on it. On the shelf below you could store CDs, DVDs, place your front R speaker and sub, or whatever you like there. That would make that area less cluttered and more open. The rear of the stand that is tucked into the alcove would need to be secured because it would be front-heavy. By extending the front of the stand, this would allow you to shift the TV toward the window and away from the fireplace giving you a little more balance on that wall. The only thing I don't like about this idea, and you and your wife may agree, is that with it being extended by a foot it would not be flush with the fireplace. A little design creativity on that end could soften that look so that it wouldn't be so squared.

When you're ready to move; remove the screws holding the rear in place, slide it out, patch the holes, and you are done. Just my 2 cents.

*This would be one solid piece that would be notched to slide into the alcove. Materials to do this entire project would be somewhere between 50 and 100 dollars.

Now you're talking. This is what I was thinking about. Glad you brought it up: Resale.

I need to really think about what you wrote here before I respond further. Great stuff.
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post #563 of 1307 Old 02-16-2012, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by stang323 View Post

What happens to the picture when it's set to either off/photo/graphics?

I don't know exactly what is taking place, but I can tell you the results.

It seems that anything other than Low-Panel Brightness creates a great deal of "white-crush". So if you want to use Custom Mode and switch it to MID or High Panel Brightness to give yourself a much brighter image, the whites become very harsh and overblown.

Switching to either "Graphics" or "Photo" resolves this issue.

It can only be done if the source is connected via HDMI, and it can be set individually for each HDMI port.

Basically, it gives that nicer, smoother image you get with Cinema and THX with the ability to increase the TVs light output.
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post #564 of 1307 Old 02-16-2012, 12:33 PM
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I apologize in advance for my ignorance...am a total newbie, but here goes...

I have a March 2011 build 50GT30 (took delivery in Dec):

I have not applied the 2.1 "Luminance" patch -- should I do this? What is it for exactly? I have also not yet applied the 2.2 firmware upgrade...it sounds as if the 2.1 patch is not bundled in w/ the 2.2 upgrade -- is this true? Why wouldn't they include both in 2.2?

Also, I have not had my A-board replaced and do not see any discernable flunctuating brightness in THX mode (at least I do not think I do). I have not yet experimented with other modes/settings. Is the flunctuating brightness issue only in certain modes or all? Does the fbr issue affect all March 50GT30 builds or are some without issue? Should I schedule my A-board to be replaced regardless??

Any help in setting me in the right direction is much appreciated. Thanks!
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post #565 of 1307 Old 02-17-2012, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by steven_jc View Post

I apologize in advance for my ignorance...am a total newbie, but here goes...

I have a March 2011 build 50GT30 (took delivery in Dec):

I have not applied the 2.1 "Luminance" patch -- should I do this? What is it for exactly? I have also not yet applied the 2.2 firmware upgrade...it sounds as if the 2.1 patch is not bundled in w/ the 2.2 upgrade -- is this true? Why wouldn't they include both in 2.2?

Also, I have not had my A-board replaced and do not see any discernable flunctuating brightness in THX mode (at least I do not think I do). I have not yet experimented with other modes/settings. Is the flunctuating brightness issue only in certain modes or all? Does the fbr issue affect all March 50GT30 builds or are some without issue? Should I schedule my A-board to be replaced regardless??

Any help in setting me in the right direction is much appreciated. Thanks!

I'm not qualified to tell you exactly what the Luminance patch does, but in practical terms it improves the image quality. For me it brightened things up a bit and improved color when using mid or high panel brightness.

It's kind of hard to explain, but I absolutely recommend it.

Yes, as odd as it may seem, the 2.1 patch must be installed, then the 2.2 firmware must be re-applied over it. If you have any specific questions about this process I'll be happy to answer them. Or you could just search this thread.

I would say that you should get the new a-board just to be safe. It's free and every person has said it is a very quick, pain-free deal. One member said the tech didn't even turn off his van.

But it's up to you.

There's no harm in applying the patch and updates now, but they will have to be applied again after you switch the boards out.
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post #566 of 1307 Old 02-17-2012, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven_jc View Post

I have not applied the 2.1 "Luminance" patch -- should I do this? What is it for exactly? I have also not yet applied the 2.2 firmware upgrade...it sounds as if the 2.1 patch is not bundled in w/ the 2.2 upgrade -- is this true? Why wouldn't they include both in 2.2?

Any help in setting me in the right direction is much appreciated. Thanks!


The main part of the so-called 2.1 Patch as some call it is that it opens up accessibilty to the Pro Settings. Some including Dave_O who many here have and use his settings had to re-calibrate after the patch. It's an easy process and with a good connection both can all be done in around 15 or so minutes. Just follow the instructions of DL to a SD card, doing the 2.1, let the TV update and then do the current firmware over the internet or whatever is best.
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post #567 of 1307 Old 02-19-2012, 05:50 AM
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Panasonic's website is selling the 65gt30 for less than they're selling the 65st30. So is BB. Frys is selling the 65gt30 for $400 less then the 65st30!!!

What is up with these prices?

Anyone have any idea why the better TV is selling for less? MUCH less at Frys.

I'm confused.
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post #568 of 1307 Old 02-19-2012, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrVizio View Post

Panasonic's website is selling the 65gt30 for less than they're selling the 65st30. So is BB. Frys is selling the 65gt30 for $400 less then the 65st30!!!

What is up with these prices?

Anyone have any idea why the better TV is selling for less? MUCH less at Frys.

I'm confused.



If i were still looking for a set I couldn't care less what's up...I'd run, not walk to either getting or ordering the set.

One reason is not long back there were "sales" on some of the S30's and ST30 larger sets. There really hasn't been much on the larger GT or VT ones. Also the 2012 models are getting closer.
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post #569 of 1307 Old 02-19-2012, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by DR.DTS View Post

If i were still looking for a set I couldn't care less what's up...I'd run, not walk to either getting or ordering the set.

One reason is not long back there were "sales" on some of the S30's and ST30 larger sets. There really hasn't been much on the larger GT or VT ones. Also the 2012 models are getting closer.

I hear ya. The thing is Frys has it for 1,699 right now. I paid 2200 at BB. I'm still within my return policy. Not sure if BB would match that price as it's a one day sale.

The real question is: is it worth the hassle of returning than re-buying to save 500 bucks, lol.

It would seem like an easy yes, but the TVs so damn big.

Hmmm............

Am I allowed specific price talk here? Ooops, if not.
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post #570 of 1307 Old 02-22-2012, 10:50 AM
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I hear ya. The thing is Frys has it for 1,699 right now. I paid 2200 at BB. I'm still within my return policy. Not sure if BB would match that price as it's a one day sale.

The real question is: is it worth the hassle of returning than re-buying to save 500 bucks, lol.

It would seem like an easy yes, but the TVs so damn big.

Hmmm............

Am I allowed specific price talk here? Ooops, if not.

Don't know about your area but in the NE BB has a 30 day price match policy. You don't have to take your set back just your reciept and the store add and they will refund you the difference. Hope this isn't to late to help you.
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