The Official Panasonic GT30 Settings Thread - Page 45 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1321 of 1335 Old 12-31-2014, 10:37 AM
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Panny GT30 Repair Summary

This post is a repair summary for GT30 chassis gathered from posts scattered throughout this thread.



Tne main part numbers for GT30 chassis. The bold items are boards needed for the "7" blink-of-death repair:
P1 -- NOAE6KL00005
P2 -- NOAE6KL00009
A --- TXNA1NVUUS
SC --TXNSC1NVUU
SS -- TXNSS1NVUU
SS2 - TXNSS21NVUU
SU -- TXNSU1PAUU
SD -- TXNSD1PAUU
C1 -- TXNC11PAUU
C2 -- TXNC21PAUU
C3 -- TXNC31PAUU

You should d/l the PDF showing trouble-shooting techniques for the VT and GT chassis. Mandatory reading; link is here

Pics of the "7" blink boards:

SC Board:


SD+ SU Boards:


Not considering using eBay will probably limit important sources for repair. The following search shows a lot of Panny boards:
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/panasonic-sc-board

Here's a video link showing Panny GT30 repair. This is directly applicable.


The video troubleshoots a TC-PxxGT30 that has failed with "7" blinks. It's good for general info showing how to replace the SC board.

The drawback is there is no mention of testing the SU and SD boards before replacing the SC board. As you read in my post (#1285), my SD board was also shorted so it COULD have blown the new SC board.

Hope this summary helps Nic and Kenny with their repair.

Regards . . . Jim

------------------------------------------------------

GT30 "Custom" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6392

GT30 "THX" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6393
GT30 "Vivid" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6402


 

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post #1322 of 1335 Old 12-31-2014, 11:46 AM
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Talking Sources for SC & SU/SD Boards . . .

Spent about 1/2 hour looking for sources of the "SC" board and it looks bleak!

I could only find one source for a SC board here. It's in China and shipping is $44, making the bottom line $173.

Couldn't find any sources for "SU" and "SD" boards!

If you are "handy" at soldering and, more importantly, UN-SOLDERING, then a repair kit (apx $30) will get the job done.

When I repaired my GT30, there were more sources b/c the TV was just recently out of production.

It could be problematic to get boards . . . post if some sources are found.

Update: 1/1/15 . . .
Found that Amazon has Panasonic "SC" replacement board. The new board is here. There are 15 left in stock but the price for each board is $555.19.

Update: 1/3/15 . . .
Found a pair of scan buffer (SU, SD) boards on Ebay here.
Price is $175.00

Do a "google" search and there is a number of other sources for the SU and SD boards. Some prices are ridiculous!

Regards . . . Jim

------------------------------------------------------

GT30 "Custom" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6392

GT30 "THX" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6393
GT30 "Vivid" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6402


 


Last edited by JForge; 01-03-2015 at 09:44 AM.
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post #1323 of 1335 Old 01-06-2015, 01:31 PM
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NickGordon, I noticed that when you click on your link for the screw set, the name of the name comes up as "Panasonic XYN3+F6FJ-18PK Stand Screw Kit". "Stand" screw? Did you order this set from Encompass? Are they the screw set for the circuit boards and not the stand?
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post #1324 of 1335 Old 01-07-2015, 12:03 AM
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Not Nic but . . . after I clicked on his link, the "bag" of screws is called "Panasonic Stand Screw Kit".

If you inspect the bag, there's a lot of screws that are external screws and not for the internal boards.

As I wrote, new screws are NOT needed . . the original ones work perfectly when tightened properly.

Regards . . . Jim

------------------------------------------------------

GT30 "Custom" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6392

GT30 "THX" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6393
GT30 "Vivid" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6402


 

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post #1325 of 1335 Old 01-12-2015, 09:32 AM
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JForge your vivid settings are spectacular on my 65gt30. Thank you.
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post #1326 of 1335 Old 02-20-2015, 02:21 PM
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I am new to this site but it has already been a huge step in helping me troubleshoot my "7 blinks of death" on my TC-P50GT30.

I have a very stupid question for you. In the troubleshooting guide they ask to check for a short circuit while resistance testing SU/SD/SC boards. I have gotten two opposing descriptions of what to look for. One person says set my multimeter to continuity mode and if it doesn't beep then there is a short. The other source says there should not be a flow of current in this instance and a beep would mean that one of the components has failed, and that is the "short".

What I am asking is what does a beep in continuity mode mean when I am resistance testing my SU/SD board (one probe to ground on SU or SD, the other to TPSC1 or VF-5V on SC)? Thanks again, sorry to ask such a basic question but I want to be sure I am doing things properly.
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post #1327 of 1335 Old 01-22-2016, 11:17 AM
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Dave_O
I've been digging through your thread on the calibration settings for this tv. I just bought this used yesterday. I had one before but it died on me and I had used the calibration settings from ******************* website which looked great but now I have this tv (my old tv was TC-P55GT30. Don't know what the difference is but the remote is different) and I need to calibrate it but it already has the 2.2 firmware and the link for the 2.1 firmware takes me to panasonic's page but their link to download it is dead.

What do I do? Do you have your latest settings for this tv?

Thanks for your time.
(Wouldn't let me PM you due to 0 post count. I've been a long time lurker but never posted)

Kimo
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post #1328 of 1335 Old 01-29-2016, 02:14 PM
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Had my A-board replaced today for flaky HDMI inputs. I see that I lost my settings, which were only user level anyway, so no big deal. Anything else I should check? Appears to have come with firmware 2.2. I've applied Dave_O's settings for brighter rooms.

Also I noticed there's some discrepancy between sharpness setting to 0 or 50 depending where you read. Any recommendations for that?
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post #1329 of 1335 Old 02-01-2016, 03:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drawz View Post
Had my A-board replaced today for flaky HDMI inputs. I see that I lost my settings, which were only user level anyway, so no big deal. Anything else I should check? Appears to have come with firmware 2.2. I've applied Dave_O's settings for brighter rooms.

Also I noticed there's some discrepancy between sharpness setting to 0 or 50 depending where you read. Any recommendations for that?
Do you mind my asking, did the HDMI ports go out or was it another issue? I have a p55GT30 and slowly over the years for some reason the 4 HDMI ports have become looser and looser. They do work, but I'm at the point where I have to use some type of clamp to keep them in place.
I know there wasn't any damage done where cords were pulled, port metal was stretched etc. It was really gradual over the years they've gotten looser now to the point where they won't hold on its own without my having to rig something to keep them stable.

Thanks
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post #1330 of 1335 Old 02-01-2016, 03:43 AM
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Loose HDMI ports

Quote:
Originally Posted by drawz View Post
Had my A-board replaced today for flaky HDMI inputs. I see that I lost my settings, which were only user level anyway, so no big deal. Anything else I should check? Appears to have come with firmware 2.2. I've applied Dave_O's settings for brighter rooms.

Also I noticed there's some discrepancy between sharpness setting to 0 or 50 depending where you read. Any recommendations for that?
Do you mind my asking, did the HDMI ports go out or was it another issue? I have a p55GT30 and slowly over the years for some reason the 4 HDMI ports have become looser and looser. They do work, but I'm at the point where I have to use some type of clamp to keep them in place.
I know there wasn't any damage done where cords were pulled, port metal was stretched etc. It was really gradual over the years they've gotten looser now to the point where they won't hold on its own without my having to rig something to keep them stable.

Thanks
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post #1331 of 1335 Old 02-11-2016, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat-ball View Post
Do you mind my asking, did the HDMI ports go out or was it another issue? I have a p55GT30 and slowly over the years for some reason the 4 HDMI ports have become looser and looser. They do work, but I'm at the point where I have to use some type of clamp to keep them in place.
I know there wasn't any damage done where cords were pulled, port metal was stretched etc. It was really gradual over the years they've gotten looser now to the point where they won't hold on its own without my having to rig something to keep them stable.

Thanks
The HDMI connection was flakey, but only occasionally. A little jiggle of the cable would revive the signal when I started having dropouts. The ports were a little loose, but not terrible. The new board seems to have fixed the problem.
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post #1332 of 1335 Old 02-12-2016, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drawz View Post
The HDMI connection was flakey, but only occasionally. A little jiggle of the cable would revive the signal when I started having dropouts. The ports were a little loose, but not terrible. The new board seems to have fixed the problem.
Interesting. Mine are really loose. either way, it sounds like the end result is going to be the same- I need to replace the board.
thanks for the feedback
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post #1333 of 1335 Old 03-12-2016, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slyck68 View Post
I am new to this site but it has already been a huge step in helping me troubleshoot my "7 blinks of death" on my TC-P50GT30.

I have a very stupid question for you. In the troubleshooting guide they ask to check for a short circuit while resistance testing SU/SD/SC boards. I have gotten two opposing descriptions of what to look for. One person says set my multimeter to continuity mode and if it doesn't beep then there is a short. The other source says there should not be a flow of current in this instance and a beep would mean that one of the components has failed, and that is the "short".

What I am asking is what does a beep in continuity mode mean when I am resistance testing my SU/SD board (one probe to ground on SU or SD, the other to TPSC1 or VF-5V on SC)? Thanks again, sorry to ask such a basic question but I want to be sure I am doing things properly.
My multimeter has a "continuity" mode where it "beeps" if a short is detected. For MY meter, it takes a bit of time for the beep to occur if a short is detected, so I prefer using it in the normal "ohms" mode (low resistance range of "200 ohms"). So if the meter shows a short, then the board is bad and needs to be replaced.

Put the negative lead on the ground pad and slowly scan the pins on the SU and SD boards. A beep or meter showing low resistance means the board is bad!
Hope that helps.

Regards . . . Jim

------------------------------------------------------

GT30 "Custom" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6392

GT30 "THX" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6393
GT30 "Vivid" Settings: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6402


 

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post #1334 of 1335 Old 03-21-2016, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drawz View Post
The HDMI connection was flakey, but only occasionally. A little jiggle of the cable would revive the signal when I started having dropouts. The ports were a little loose, but not terrible. The new board seems to have fixed the problem.
Did you replace the board yourself, or did you have someone do it for you?
I'm fairly competent with computer hardware but have never touched the inside of a tv. I got a quote for $500 (that includes $175 to come out to fix it) which is more than I want to spend (more than 1/3rd of what I paid for it in 2012). That said, I'd prefer to keep my plasma.

I've been looking for an A-board for my tv and haven't had much luck yet but I assume they're out there if I decide to do it myself.

thanks for the feedback.
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post #1335 of 1335 Old 04-13-2016, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat-ball View Post
Did you replace the board yourself, or did you have someone do it for you?
I'm fairly competent with computer hardware but have never touched the inside of a tv. I got a quote for $500 (that includes $175 to come out to fix it) which is more than I want to spend (more than 1/3rd of what I paid for it in 2012). That said, I'd prefer to keep my plasma.

I've been looking for an A-board for my tv and haven't had much luck yet but I assume they're out there if I decide to do it myself.

thanks for the feedback.
FYI- A new A-board did the trick. sucked but definitely better than buying a new LED.
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