Official Pioneer Kuro Reddish Tint Problem Thread - Page 27 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: Does your Kuro have a reddish tint to the blacks?
KRP-500M/KRP-600M - NO 7 15.91%
5020FD/6020FD - NO 3 6.82%
111FD/151FD - NO 5 11.36%
101FD/141FD - NO 4 9.09%
Other/Older Model (please post) - NO 4 9.09%
KRP-500M/KRP-600M - YES 9 20.45%
5020FD/6020FD - YES 7 15.91%
111FD/151FD - YES 4 9.09%
101FD/141FD - YES 2 4.55%
Other/Older Model (please post) - YES 0 0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 44. You may not vote on this poll

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post #781 of 2691 Old 03-15-2012, 11:55 AM
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I thought it may be worth mentioning that a guy in another forum claims to have solved red tint without the reset. He had 8000 hours on his tv and all he did was change VOL YKNOFS D from 128 to 80.

He says that the blacks are matching the bezel again. Maybe worth a try for anyone who didn't reset.
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post #782 of 2691 Old 03-15-2012, 12:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroud View Post

I thought it may be worth mentioning that a guy in another forum claims to have solved red tint without the reset. He had 8000 hours on his tv and all he did was change VOL YKNOFS D from 128 to 80.

He says that the blacks are matching the bezel again. Maybe worth a try for anyone who didn't reset.

Thanks Stroud, I might give that a try if I ever get around to messing with it haha. If anyone else tries this please let us know if it works!
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post #783 of 2691 Old 03-15-2012, 12:18 PM
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I can just access the service menu through controlcal and navigate with my regular remote control to those settings and change 'em? Or do I have to send commands from my PC to the Kuro which would be more complicated

If so I can do this like tonight or tomorrow since I already got the cables and CC (e-lite 5020FD with a pretty bad case of red tint near the bezel), please let me know if there's any tricky part in this so I won't mess everything up lol

KRP-500M | Kuro 9G 5020FD + e-lite mod | B&W 683 Fronts | B&W 685 Center | B&W DM601 S3 Rears | HSU VTF3 MK3 Sub | Yamaha RX-V663 AVR
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post #784 of 2691 Old 03-15-2012, 12:30 PM
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Lay off the acid?

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post #785 of 2691 Old 03-17-2012, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroud View Post

I thought it may be worth mentioning that a guy in another forum claims to have solved red tint without the reset. He had 8000 hours on his tv and all he did was change VOL YKNOFS D from 128 to 80.

He says that the blacks are matching the bezel again. Maybe worth a try for anyone who didn't reset.

I did try it, I might of even suggested it, yes it worked as far as the black where awesome.... but with artifacts clearly visible on a white screen.

keep us posted as to what happened with your TV as the hours build up.
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post #786 of 2691 Old 03-17-2012, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragnarok666 View Post

I did try it, I might of even suggested it, yes it worked as far as the black where awesome.... but with artifacts clearly visible on a white screen.

keep us posted as to what happened with your TV as the hours build up.

So if you get artifacts by adjusting that then you fix one thing and mess something else up. What did you do to get rid of the artifacts?
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post #787 of 2691 Old 03-22-2012, 12:36 PM
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Hello first timer here.

I have a Krp-500a (uk) - and have done the pulse and hour reset. :-)

I have the sparklies pink/white which i expected i would get.

I have a fair idea on how to rid them but i was wondering if someone could possibly help with some specific voltages apart from the vol sus - rstp, that could help a krp owner such as myself as i realise they seem to behave a bit differently than the other 9g's after reset.

Any help would be fantastic

Thank you
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post #788 of 2691 Old 03-26-2012, 12:06 PM
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Lol, Anybody ?
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post #789 of 2691 Old 03-27-2012, 01:17 AM
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Hi Stu,
I think you are going to have to scan back through this, and other similar threads, and collect all the info from other members who have done the reset. Check the "red tint to blacks" thread where people have listed the changes they have made. Each person appears to require different adjustments, there is no one fits all. You will probably have to note down ALL of your settings first, then try each suggestion, with the safety net of being able to revert if they make matters worse. Be aware that you may see some changes in the first few hundred hours, as the set adjusts believing that a new panel has been fitted.
Regards, Mike.
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post #790 of 2691 Old 03-27-2012, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_mike View Post

Hi Stu,
I think you are going to have to scan back through this, and other similar threads, and collect all the info from other members who have done the reset. Check the "red tint to blacks" thread where people have listed the changes they have made. Each person appears to require different adjustments, there is no one fits all. You will probably have to note down ALL of your settings first, then try each suggestion, with the safety net of being able to revert if they make matters worse. Be aware that you may see some changes in the first few hundred hours, as the set adjusts believing that a new panel has been fitted.
Regards, Mike.

Thanks for the info.

Have you done the reset ?

Thanks
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post #791 of 2691 Old 03-27-2012, 10:29 PM
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Has anyone done the reset and tried running through the flowchart described in the SM?
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post #792 of 2691 Old 03-28-2012, 01:46 AM
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Hi Stu,
No, I have not done the reset, my panel does not exhibit any red tint, but I do have slightly elevated MLL - but that's only visible in a dark room, not the best way to watch TV unless you like eye strain! I use low level ambient lights, or rear of panel mounted LED bias lights for Blu-rays.
If you can download a copy of the Service Manual it has a flow chart for panel replacement, and guides for adjusting various voltage levels to correct for problems on fully black and fully white screens. It also shows how to enable the panels internal test patterns.
BUT, do make sure to note all your current settings before making any changes.
Best of luck, Mike.
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post #793 of 2691 Old 03-28-2012, 04:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_mike View Post

Hi Stu,
No, I have not done the reset, my panel does not exhibit any red tint, but I do have slightly elevated MLL - but that's only visible in a dark room, not the best way to watch TV unless you like eye strain! I use low level ambient lights, or rear of panel mounted LED bias lights for Blu-rays.
If you can download a copy of the Service Manual it has a flow chart for panel replacement, and . for adjusting various voltage levels to correct for problems on fully black and fully white screens. It also shows how to enable the panels internal test patterns.
BUT, do make sure to note all your current settings before making any changes.
Best of luck, Mike.

Hi Mike and thanks for your reply.

I like to use light behind screen also it does help like you say with eye strain.

Thanks for the advice with the flow chart by the way sounds perfect for what i may need. But i need to wait until i can borrow some equipment as i dont have my own laptop etc i am waiting to see someone with regard to that.

I would like to download service manual but cant find one for the 500a only (500m). Could i ask your opinion if it would matter a great deal if i downloaded the manual for the monitor instead of my plasma screen tv with regard to the flow chart and patterns ?...

Thanks again for your advice Mike,

Regards
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post #794 of 2691 Old 03-28-2012, 11:56 AM
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Hi Stu,
I have the 500M monitor, so the manual was fine for me, but I would suggest downloading a copy and then compare the menu structure described in it against your actual menus for the 500A, if they are the same or very similar then you are good to go!
Regards, Mike
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post #795 of 2691 Old 03-28-2012, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_mike View Post

Hi Stu,
I have the 500M monitor, so the manual was fine for me, but I would suggest downloading a copy and then compare the menu structure described in it against your actual menus for the 500A, if they are the same or very similar then you are good to go!
Regards, Mike

Hi again Mike cheers for the reply,

I have managed to find a link for the A version so will be hoping to download soon. I suspect they will be the same or very similar.

I post on the other LX5090 red tint to blacks thread also, and discovered earlier tonight the red tint is still there just like it was before - but ONLY on PC mode !. When i switched back to video all was black again lol.

Strange find it was i must say mate...

Cheers Mike
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post #796 of 2691 Old 03-28-2012, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

Hi again Mike cheers for the reply,

I have managed to find a link for the A version so will be hoping to download soon. I suspect they will be the same or very similar.

I post on the other LX5090 red tint to blacks thread also, and discovered earlier tonight the red tint is still there just like it was before - but ONLY on PC mode !. When i switched back to video all was black again lol.

Strange find it was i must say mate...

Cheers Mike

Stu is this after you did the reset?
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post #797 of 2691 Old 03-28-2012, 01:54 PM
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Yes it is, sorry forgot to mention it there, did reset about a month ago.

Couldnt believe my eyes until i switched back again a few times
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post #798 of 2691 Old 03-28-2012, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

Yes it is, sorry forgot to mention it there, did reset about a month ago.

Couldnt believe my eyes until i switched back again a few times

The D-Sub/PC input will always have slightly more elevated MLL than any of the other inputs due to the content that will be displayed. Pioneer had to raise the reset voltage which in returns slightly raises the MLL due to all the static imagery that will most likely be displayed on that input. They wanted to be more safe than have to deal with IR or Burn in. The reset voltage can be a little lower on all the other inputs due to mostly motion non static imagery being displayed. Plus, the black you see after a reset is no were near the proper MLL in which the display needs to properly operate. (.001 for all 9G and .0006 for the KRP-500's) Being the original to reset, it is safe to say my panel still runs properly, deep blacks, and no hit of red tint. I now have over 1300 hours and pulse counts in the billions. I had to make multiple voltage changes along the way, along with multiple internal test patterns, only watching sources that filled the screen, and many nights taking measurements with my meter. The first 500 to 600 hours your panel is going to go through so many changes and adjustments you will be adjusting in circles. The best you can do is to raise your VOL SUS up about 10 or 15 values, VOL RST P up 20 values, and VOL YKNOFSA D up 20 values until you reach about 500 hours. Once you start accumulating hours and pulse counts you will need to lower back all your values to original factory values and only adjust your VOL YKNOFSA D up until perfect picture is achieved. Based on measurements from my Display 3 Pro you can raise your VOL YKNOFSA D all the way to value 188 with out changing your MLL of .001 (I would not recommend raising it that high but I was testing limits). However raising your VOL RST over value 056 will change your MLL of .001 to .002 and resurface your red tint. I am currently running all factory voltage values accept for VOL YKNOFSA D which is at 148 (factory value of 128). Good rule of thumb is to use test pattern MKRS19 to test if your VOL YKNOFSA D is set to low and MKRS23 to test if is set to high. Good Luck to all and hope everyone is still enjoying there displays.
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post #799 of 2691 Old 03-29-2012, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mascior View Post


The D-Sub/PC input will always have slightly more elevated MLL than any of the other inputs due to the content that will be displayed. Pioneer had to raise the reset voltage which in returns slightly raises the MLL due to all the static imagery that will most likely be displayed on that input. They wanted to be more safe than have to deal with IR or Burn in. The reset voltage can be a little lower on all the other inputs due to mostly motion non static imagery being displayed. Plus, the black you see after a reset is no were near the proper MLL in which the display needs to properly operate. (.001 for all 9G and .0006 for the KRP-500's) Being the original to reset, it is safe to say my panel still runs properly, deep blacks, and no hit of red tint. I now have over 1300 hours and pulse counts in the billions. I had to make multiple voltage changes along the way, along with multiple internal test patterns, only watching sources that filled the screen, and many nights taking measurements with my meter. The first 500 to 600 hours your panel is going to go through so many changes and adjustments you will be adjusting in circles. The best you can do is to raise your VOL SUS up about 10 or 15 values, VOL RST P up 20 values, and VOL YKNOFSA D up 20 values until you reach about 500 hours. Once you start accumulating hours and pulse counts you will need to lower back all your values to original factory values and only adjust your VOL YKNOFSA D up until perfect picture is achieved. Based on measurements from my Display 3 Pro you can raise your VOL YKNOFSA D all the way to value 188 with out changing your MLL of .001 (I would not recommend raising it that high but I was testing limits). However raising your VOL RST over value 056 will change your MLL of .001 to .002 and resurface your red tint. I am currently running all factory voltage values accept for VOL YKNOFSA D which is at 148 (factory value of 128). Good rule of thumb is to use test pattern MKRS19 to test if your VOL YKNOFSA D is set to low and MKRS23 to test if is set to high. Good Luck to all and hope everyone is still enjoying there displays.

Thanks for the advice mascior, most detailed info i have seen yet by far. Will use for future ref for sure, as i knew mll after reset wasnt true to my normal panel operation. My only goal here is to have "normal black" level, but keeping red tint at bay of course.

Thanks again...
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post #800 of 2691 Old 04-04-2012, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragnarok666 View Post


I did try it, I might of even suggested it, yes it worked as far as the black where awesome.... but with artifacts clearly visible on a white screen.

keep us posted as to what happened with your TV as the hours build up.

Did you try adjusting VOL SUS up a bit on a white screen ?, i'm guessing the artifacts were pink...
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post #801 of 2691 Old 04-08-2012, 05:17 AM
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For mascoir.

I got the chance yestetday to borrow equipment to try and change voltages, a couple of pointers you mentioned helped as did a couple i experimented with. My blacks seem cleaner now with higher brightness settings than before, pink sparkles reduced also, will keep trying whenever i get a chance.

Thanks again
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post #802 of 2691 Old 04-08-2012, 03:48 PM
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If anyone in Dfw tx want's to help me out and make some cash for fixing my red tint on my krp-500 let me know! I don't have the equipment and don't know of any calibrators that are available anytime soon!
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post #803 of 2691 Old 04-14-2012, 02:52 AM
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What's up with this thread ?,

Has everyone just accepted that they have an afflicted red black panel ? - or is it just that has everyone has gone away, and "fixed" their own tint problem ?
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post #804 of 2691 Old 04-14-2012, 08:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

What's up with this thread ?,

Has everyone just accepted that they have an afflicted red black panel ? - or is it just that has everyone has gone away, and "fixed" their own tint problem ?

I was going to do some of the service menu stuff that other people had some success with but D-Nice STRONGLY suggests not messing with any of these tweaks so I have kind of decided just to live with it . I am hoping to get a new/larger TV this year anyways which will be my main display so I won't be using the 500M that much so it will kind of be out of sight out of mind lol
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post #805 of 2691 Old 04-15-2012, 04:26 AM
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I was wondering if I could ask D-Nice about the differences with people's panels after reset ?. Some posts that I have read report having no sparkles after reset, while nearly all have the sparkles afterwards, myself included with my 500. Is there maybe a specific voltage within factory adjustment that perhaps some folks are getting lucky with ?. Or is it most probably a combination of a couple of voltages

Thanks
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post #806 of 2691 Old 04-15-2012, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

I was wondering if I could ask D-Nice about the differencess

Of course you can ask. However prior to asking you should all of his posts to this thread.
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post #807 of 2691 Old 04-15-2012, 05:22 AM
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Of course you can ask. However prior to asking you should all of his posts to this thread.

Fair enough yeah. Like everyone else trying to understand some stuff on this issue is all. I could read through everything everywhere and maybe miss something, or maybe not fully understand what was being said in a post. That's the only reason I asked.
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post #808 of 2691 Old 04-16-2012, 02:19 AM
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Just thought that I'd give you all an update on my 5090H red tint issue (it's a story with a happy ending )

First a quick bit of background information.

I have a 5090H which is now 2.5 years old (still 2.5 years left on the warranty), I had it professionally calibrated at around 800 hours and the dreaded red tint started to creep in around 5 months after that.
At first, it was only noticeable in the lower right hand corner of the screen (when viewed from the front) but it gradually started to spread over the rest of the screen over the next 12 months or so.

It was basically driving me to distraction and I even tried installing behind screen bias lighting, but that didn't really have much effect.
In short my viewing pleasure was severely disrupted and I could only watch the TV when the main lights in the room were on, else my eyes were always drawn to the red tint.

I've been scanning the forums since I first noticed the issue the best part of 2 years ago hoping for some sort of resolution and the couple of months have provided a wealth of knowledge on the subject
I'd written off actually contacting Pioneer about this as person after person has been given the cold shoulder by their customer services team (in the UK anyway).

I didn't want to reset the pulse / hour meters yet (not until I tried everything else that is) and was excited to see another member having good results with simply tinkering with a couple of the panel adjustments settings, so after purchasing a working USB to DB9 cable (this was more trouble than you might imagine as it took three attempts to get a functioning one) I was ready to start playing.

My panel details were as follows;

Panel Hours = 7824
VOL SUS = 128
VOL OFFSET = 113
VOL RSTP = 034
VOL XPOFS1 = 085
VOL XPOFS2 = 063
VOL YKNOFS1 D = 138
VOL YKNOFS3 D = 128
VOL YKNOFS4 D = 149
VOL YKNOFSA D = 128

Going off the information I had read, I'd be looking at adjusting VOL YKNOFSA D and possibly VOL RSTP (although looking at where my panel had self adjusted to I wasn't sure I'd need to do this).

So with a black test image on screen and the lights off I start reducing VOL YKNOFSA D and it's like watching time roll backwards.
The red tint begins to reduce from the entire screen, then to be concentrated in the lower right hand corner then eventually to be eradicated completely.

The amount I had to reduce VOL YKNOFSA D confirms my suspicion that my panel was badly affected and I had to dial the VOL YKNOFSA D all the way down to 60.

Now my TV is performing like it was new again (better in fact) - With no light in the room (complete blackout) as long as there is some light (to constrict your iris a little) on the screen (to constrict your iris a little) it's not possible to see where the screen ends and the bezel begins
With the bias lighting switched on the screen is indistinguishable from bezel even with a black test image.

I've only run the TV like this for a couple of days so far, but as yet I've noticed no side affects from the adjustment (and I'm actively looking for them) and I'm close to calling the whole thing a complete success!

I'm currently a very happy bunny

Macca
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post #809 of 2691 Old 04-16-2012, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the report BigMacca! That is very encouraging and makes me feel like trying what you did. I don't have a problem with just adjusting one value especially when I can always just set it back to what it was. I didn't really want to do a full reset though.

What test image did you or are others using? I was wondering what test black image I could use. I was under the impression you needed to do that as opposed to just a blank input with no signal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMacca View Post

Just thought that I'd give you all an update on my 5090H red tint issue (it's a story with a happy ending )

First a quick bit of background information.

I have a 5090H which is now 2.5 years old (still 2.5 years left on the warranty), I had it professionally calibrated at around 800 hours and the dreaded red tint started to creep in around 5 months after that.
At first, it was only noticeable in the lower right hand corner of the screen (when viewed from the front) but it gradually started to spread over the rest of the screen over the next 12 months or so.

It was basically driving me to distraction and I even tried installing behind screen bias lighting, but that didn't really have much effect.
In short my viewing pleasure was severely disrupted and I could only watch the TV when the main lights in the room were on, else my eyes were always drawn to the red tint.

I've been scanning the forums since I first noticed the issue the best part of 2 years ago hoping for some sort of resolution and the couple of months have provided a wealth of knowledge on the subject
I'd written off actually contacting Pioneer about this as person after person has been given the cold shoulder by their customer services team (in the UK anyway).

I didn't want to reset the pulse / hour meters yet (not until I tried everything else that is) and was excited to see another member having good results with simply tinkering with a couple of the panel adjustments settings, so after purchasing a working USB to DB9 cable (this was more trouble than you might imagine as it took three attempts to get a functioning one) I was ready to start playing.

My panel details were as follows;

Panel Hours = 7824
VOL SUS = 128
VOL OFFSET = 113
VOL RSTP = 034
VOL XPOFS1 = 085
VOL XPOFS2 = 063
VOL YKNOFS1 D = 138
VOL YKNOFS3 D = 128
VOL YKNOFS4 D = 149
VOL YKNOFSA D = 128

Going off the information I had read, I'd be looking at adjusting VOL YKNOFSA D and possibly VOL RSTP (although looking at where my panel had self adjusted to I wasn't sure I'd need to do this).

So with a black test image on screen and the lights off I start reducing VOL YKNOFSA D and it's like watching time roll backwards.
The red tint begins to reduce from the entire screen, then to be concentrated in the lower right hand corner then eventually to be eradicated completely.

The amount I had to reduce VOL YKNOFSA D confirms my suspicion that my panel was badly affected and I had to dial the VOL YKNOFSA D all the way down to 60.

Now my TV is performing like it was new again (better in fact) - With no light in the room (complete blackout) as long as there is some light (to constrict your iris a little) on the screen (to constrict your iris a little) it's not possible to see where the screen ends and the bezel begins
With the bias lighting switched on the screen is indistinguishable from bezel even with a black test image.

I've only run the TV like this for a couple of days so far, but as yet I've noticed no side affects from the adjustment (and I'm actively looking for them) and I'm close to calling the whole thing a complete success!

I'm currently a very happy bunny

Macca

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post #810 of 2691 Old 04-16-2012, 07:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroud View Post

I spoke to a friend in another forum and he said that all of his voltage setting were at stock levels apart from VOLYNOFSA D which he had raised by 20. His set is at 800 hours after reset so I did the same, put VOLRST P back to where it was before I changed it (23) and raised VOLYNOFSA D by 20. That got rid of the red tint once again and I have left as is. Still a perfect picture and everything is great (no sparkles, black crush or red tint). I am now at 400 hours past reset.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMacca View Post

So with a black test image on screen and the lights off I start reducing VOL YKNOFSA D and it's like watching time roll backwards.
The red tint begins to reduce from the entire screen, then to be concentrated in the lower right hand corner then eventually to be eradicated completely.

The amount I had to reduce VOL YKNOFSA D confirms my suspicion that my panel was badly affected and I had to dial the VOL YKNOFSA D all the way down to 60.

Macca

I find it interesting that you guys adjusted VOL YKNOFSA D in opposite directions to reduce the red tint. Any idea why this occurred? I would think you would always have to either increase it or decrease it. Stroud what value is your VOL YKNOFSA D set to now and what was it before?
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Pioneer , Pioneer Pdp 6020fd 60 Inch Class Kuro Plasma Hdtv , Lcd Hdtv , Pioneer Pdp 5020fd 50 Inch 1080p Kuro Plasma Hdtv , Playstation 3 160gb System
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