Official Pioneer Kuro Reddish Tint Problem Thread - Page 61 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: Does your Kuro have a reddish tint to the blacks?
KRP-500M/KRP-600M - NO 7 17.07%
5020FD/6020FD - NO 3 7.32%
111FD/151FD - NO 5 12.20%
101FD/141FD - NO 4 9.76%
Other/Older Model (please post) - NO 3 7.32%
KRP-500M/KRP-600M - YES 7 17.07%
5020FD/6020FD - YES 7 17.07%
111FD/151FD - YES 4 9.76%
101FD/141FD - YES 2 4.88%
Other/Older Model (please post) - YES 0 0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 41. You may not vote on this poll

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post #1801 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 02:47 AM
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Why did you reset, all you needed to do was adjust RST P and YKNOFSA D confused.gif

It had problems with the black level aswell and this sorted it, just do the adjustments and stop the jaw, defo gotta go, tara.
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post #1802 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 03:54 AM
 
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umm because stu and ice said it needed a reset, not just voltage changes. And none of them ever mentioned RST P.
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post #1803 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 04:11 AM
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First post here.
FYI i have the european lx5090 but with exactly the same voltage values as Somelogin. Only exception is rstp: 001.
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post #1804 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 04:49 AM
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I also had some issues with image retention after reset. However it faded away into the black after lowering YKNOFSA D.

Made my first reset six months ago with good result. However I did not manage to get down to 0.00058flL. So i last friday did another reset according to Ice's guide here (I had 756 hours on my display since last reset). Now i'm using the recommended settings (YKOFS1 113, YKOFS3 124) and now I honestly cannot tell if the TV is on or off smile.gif

I doubt that your panel is wrecked, i would recommend to do another reset, use the recomended settings and play with RSTP/YKOFSAD
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post #1805 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 08:15 AM
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Which kuro model do you have?
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post #1806 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddrain1 View Post

Which kuro model do you have?

Who you asking there fella?
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post #1807 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 11:43 AM
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Yours Rob but I just realized you posted it earlier. Somelogin I had a poor black level with mine to and a very small amount of reddish tint in my 111fd. I did not reset. I changed my rst p from 5 to 1 and yknofsad from 128 to 95. It's back to being the kuro it should be. If I reverse them back it goes back to the bad mll. Not trying to push you. You can do whatever you want, I don't take responsibility. Just telling you what happened with mine because it seems like yours situation is similar.
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post #1808 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

Also, that tv has about 8,000 hours and the second one ahs about 10,000. Each sold to me by people estimating way less hours on them, of course. But not what I consider high for so many years since they bought them. If I owned it as long as they did, it would have at least 20,000 each.

Didn't I tell you not to buy a kuro with out seeing it person and checking the hours? This is the exact reason why. You've been got. Those hours are way too high. They've probably been used hard which is why it has elevated black levels. You don't listen when people tell you things.

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post #1809 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 03:03 PM
 
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Originally Posted by saprano View Post

Didn't I tell you not to buy a kuro with out seeing it person and checking the hours? This is the exact reason why. You've been got. Those hours are way too high. They've probably been used hard which is why it has elevated black levels. You don't listen when people tell you things.
If kuros can't take being used a few hours a day without going to crap black levels, then they really can't be called some of the best displays ever. I use the display "hard" too, and if it's so great it should be able to take way more than that. I have another tv with around 25,000 hours, which didn't magically turn to a bad tv. Only the luros.

Todd, but stu said most who do it that way end up having artifacts later and on the 111 I already apparently messed up changing voltages is not doing much, so the only one I could try it on with no reset is my second one and I hate to risk both tvs going crazy. Snd Rob keeps making suggestions, but won't explain why, such as why only voltages need to be changed, yet he did a reset on his. I think people who are saying what to do just tried a bunch of trial and error and give their results and think they will work on all tvs.
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post #1810 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 08:02 PM
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I'm not saying they can't handle being used for thousands of hours. They can. As D-Nice once said--these TV's are made to be run into ground.

But buying one with that many hours already on it is risky imo. You don't know how it was used. There's a reason they lied to you about the hours.

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post #1811 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 09:21 PM
 
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The reason is the fewer hours the better. They only estimated, anyway. But one of them was a way off estimate. You will NOT find a used elite with much fewer hours or they'll be asking nutty prices like that 101 on ebay for around $5k.
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post #1812 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 09:25 PM
 
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There are too many pages to go through in this topic. Which pages start much of this voltage discussion? The guides obviously did not work, so I need to see what others advised. And RST P is not talked about much at all and I am hesitant to change that one.
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post #1813 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 09:32 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

As I've said before, you guys really should not be touching voltage controls because you do not know what you are doing... nor do you really know what the do and/or impact. But again, it is your display.
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post #1814 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 09:47 PM
 
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Just reading pages 22 and 23 did it for me. I guess I won't try changing anything on the second elite. Notice, both d-0nice and pioneer techs said the reset and voltage changes will cause the tvs to be worse later on than when you started. Too bad this topic wasn't shorter or someone summarizing these reasons not to do it, where I wouldn't have seen only the ones claiming the service manual said to do this etc. The service manual does not say to do this. It says when replacing parts to reset a few things. Like I said, I guess the one I reset is ruined. Always trust your gut on that type of thing, no matter how many claim differently. I knew form looking at it that it was ruined. And people even disagree on whether to raise or lower RST P. D-0nice pretty much said raising it makes black levels worse, not better, and others claimed you need to raise it on a reset tv.
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post #1815 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 10:00 PM
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A bit of help please from the guys that have done the reset a couple of times, Stu you've probably run into this issue.

What voltage should I increase to eliminate pixel misfires(purple) when changing to a light colour after being black for extended periods, eg calibrating with small windows or black bars on 2.35:1 content.
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post #1816 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

There are too many pages to go through in this topic. Which pages start much of this voltage discussion? The guides obviously did not work, so I need to see what others advised. And RST P is not talked about much at all and I am hesitant to change that one.

Just to clarify. The burn it continues or the damage is done?
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post #1817 of 2691 Old 01-20-2014, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

If kuros can't take being used a few hours a day without going to crap black levels, then they really can't be called some of the best displays ever. I use the display "hard" too, and if it's so great it should be able to take way more than that. I have another tv with around 25,000 hours, which didn't magically turn to a bad tv. Only the luros.

Todd, but stu said most who do it that way end up having artifacts later and on the 111 I already apparently messed up changing voltages is not doing much, so the only one I could try it on with no reset is my second one and I hate to risk both tvs going crazy. Snd Rob keeps making suggestions, but won't explain why, such as why only voltages need to be changed, yet he did a reset on his. I think people who are saying what to do just tried a bunch of trial and error and give their results and think they will work on all tvs.

Hate to agree with this. Even using the old somewhat common plasma half-life estimate of 60,000 hours or so, 10k hours ought to be just broken in.
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post #1818 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 12:32 AM
 
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Just to clarify. The burn it continues or the damage is done?
Both. Every time I turn it on, it's constantly having everything on the screen at least temporarily burn in, which I guess would be called IR still, but it looks worse than what I call IR. And then a whole bunch of stuff is still burnt in from weeks ago so that's not just minor IR.
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post #1819 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 01:02 AM
 
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as I mentioned before, the burn in is not the only issue, now, either. While trying to fix that by lowering a voltage I was told to lower, it started having a lot of white noise which nothing fixes.
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post #1820 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 02:22 AM
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Raising VOL-SUS will help misfiring.
@ somelogin you are just a lost cause, you will not do anything people say and afaic your finished with me, no wonder people are not willing to help you, i really think unless you do stuff your advised to do then its time you said goodbye to this thread.
Your name isn't Steve and you really live in Manchester eh????
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post #1821 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 05:16 AM
 
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I did follow advice, thus why my tv is broken. So you're saying you know more than D-nice or Pioneer techs, who all recommended not to do any of this? If you so badly want me to do everything you say, show me credentials. Otherwise, you should not think someone is going to just randomly change voltages because someone on a forum tells them to. I was crazy enough to do it before and you see what I got from it, a tv where everything burns in instantly.

I already DID do everything people said, thus my current situation. smile.gif
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post #1822 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 07:14 AM
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Has anyone tried adjusting the Red panel degradation correction in the service menu. I can't help but think that this was improperly set up at the factory causing the red phosphor wear differently than the others. My Red was set at 3 while blue and green are at 0. I remember a while ago someone posting that they had their set calibrated by Dnice and he saw whatever was going to cause the reddish tint eventually and changed it. Even though the set was newer and the reddish tint didn't happen yet.
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post #1823 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddrain1 View Post

Has anyone tried adjusting the Red panel degradation correction in the service menu. I can't help but think that this was improperly set up at the factory causing the red phosphor wear differently than the others. My Red was set at 3 while blue and green are at 0. I remember a while ago someone posting that they had their set calibrated by Dnice and he saw whatever was going to cause the reddish tint eventually and changed it. Even though the set was newer and the reddish tint didn't happen yet.

What is the setting called in service menu?
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post #1824 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

Both. Every time I turn it on, it's constantly having everything on the screen at least temporarily burn in, which I guess would be called IR still, but it looks worse than what I call IR. And then a whole bunch of stuff is still burnt in from weeks ago so that's not just minor IR.

Seems like your panel is messed up. You tried all the settings etc and nothing helped. Sorry for your loss.
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post #1825 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 08:39 AM
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The settings is called red level for panel degradation correction
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post #1826 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddrain1 View Post

The settings is called red level for panel degradation correction

I don't recall ever seeing that setting. Do you know which menu it is located exactly?
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post #1827 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 09:22 AM
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I believe it was in the Panel Function(+) It might have been called R-Level in the menu. there is a 0-7 setting. Mine was on 3 were blue and green were 0.
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post #1828 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddrain1 View Post

I believe it was in the Panel Function(+) It might have been called R-Level in the menu. there is a 0-7 setting. Mine was on 3 were blue and green were 0.

Thanks I'll take a peak and adjust it. On a nonreset panel.
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post #1829 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 10:01 AM
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I also found in the Service menu under Panel Function(+) there is a setting called Full Black. The Options for that are either Mode 1 or Off. Does ayone know what this does?
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post #1830 of 2691 Old 01-21-2014, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddrain1 View Post

I believe it was in the Panel Function(+) It might have been called R-Level in the menu. there is a 0-7 setting. Mine was on 3 were blue and green were 0.

Mine was also set at 3 for Red Level. I do believe it is set at 3 vs 0 for blue and green because red on plasma degrades quicker that any other color. Thus a slower degrade number. the higher the number, the slower the degrade.

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