Official Pioneer Kuro Reddish Tint Problem Thread - Page 85 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: Does your Kuro have a reddish tint to the blacks?
KRP-500M/KRP-600M - NO 6 15.00%
5020FD/6020FD - NO 3 7.50%
111FD/151FD - NO 5 12.50%
101FD/141FD - NO 4 10.00%
Other/Older Model (please post) - NO 3 7.50%
KRP-500M/KRP-600M - YES 7 17.50%
5020FD/6020FD - YES 7 17.50%
111FD/151FD - YES 4 10.00%
101FD/141FD - YES 2 5.00%
Other/Older Model (please post) - YES 0 0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 40. You may not vote on this poll

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post #2521 of 2687 Old 04-10-2014, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

Have you some sort of problem Makaveddie.

I haven't ever said the tint won't ever return to that 500A.

Just that it was there slightly after 200hrs from new - riddled after 1K or so hours.

And after my resets and tweaks - which was six btw. Hasn't returned in 1500hrs

But you do go out of your way to state, matter of fact, that red tint WILL return if one simply reduces RSTP with no evidence whatsoever. Admittedly, you reset your display without even tweaking the voltages beforehand, so anything you say with regards to simply tweaking voltages is false. You're misleading people into bypassing tweaking and diving straight into reset.
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...And in all truth - lowering only RSTP is only temporary, if say it did work on your screen. Just hides it for a while. Once it comes back and RSTP is at such a low number, 3, 2 or 1 for example. After that there is nowhere to go with RSTP. Then you would have to start looking at other voltages and it will start snowballing. I won't recommend tweaking, I won't recommend reset. I would recommend hiring a pro firstly - if that's not possible then completely up to you

No problem here, pal. Just don't think its fair for you to bash a red tint / black level reducing method that you have no first hand experience with.
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post #2522 of 2687 Old 04-10-2014, 10:54 AM
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It's called reading forums for years on the subject - and people who only lower RSTP to rid the red tint get the tint back. Not to mention people who have already.

I am not arguing with someone who knows nothing about anything and thinks he is great because he rips off someone else's numbers behind their back.

You have no experience full stop Makaveddie - let's not kid about.
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post #2523 of 2687 Old 04-10-2014, 11:07 AM
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It's called reading forums for years on the subject - and people who only lower RSTP to rid the red tint get the tint back. Not to mention people who have already.

I am not arguing with someone who knows nothing about anything and thinks he is great because he rips off someone else's numbers behind their back.

You have no experience full stop Makaveddie - let's not kid about.

So you don't think I've been reading those same forums/threads? Bottom line is all the reading in the world does not replace first hand/hands on experience. You've reset one panel that you don't even own anymore. I've tweaked two and reset one. Do the math. You've never tweaked a display yet you come in here and state the method is flawed in the long term. Please, show me posts from people who have experienced a rise in black level or return of red tint after lowering RSTP and S1, S3 and S4 (specific to these voltage combinations).

Never have I said that I am the end all be all when it comes to tweaking. You sure do seen to imply that you are though. If you weren't part of Pioneer's engineering team then you don't know squat and are no better than me or anyone else in this thread. Plus, its hard to value the opinion of someone who acts like a 50 inch display is as equally immersive as a 65 inch display if one sits closer to it. I guess I should start sitting 2 inches from my Galaxy S4 and bypass purchasing an OLED display.

But keep acting like you're the subject matter expert, its pretty amusing.

As far as ripping someone else's numbers, anyone could have easily done it with before and after captures. Seems like I was the only one who thought about it though. Plus, no one will ever know if that is the correct method or if there is more to it. I really don't care if it is or isn't. All I know is that it's worked on my displays and on others with fantastic results and no issues whatsoever .

This is my last reply on the subject, as I can now feel the frustration that vinnie97 feels when engaged in a discussion with you.
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post #2524 of 2687 Old 04-10-2014, 11:13 AM
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Yeah whatever big baby. Boo hoo. Two months ago you didn't even know what 60VS was or was used for.

Crack on with your KURO reader crap no one cares.
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post #2525 of 2687 Old 04-10-2014, 11:16 AM
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Yeah whatever big baby. Boo hoo. Two months ago you didn't even know what 60VS was or was used for.

Crack on with your KURO reader crap no one cares.

OK STU pid. Keep ducking and dodging.
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post #2526 of 2687 Old 04-10-2014, 06:25 PM
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Stu,

I tried lowering Red Low per your advice and that improved the reddish tint on my 500M a bit so thanks for that. Come this weekend, I'm still going to try the voltage tweaks and see if that helps even more.

I don't understand why certain Kuros are affected with "red tint" I have a 101fd with 2,000 hours and absolutely NO tint... Has anyone been able to research which build dates are producing the most units affected, or is the tint issue totally ramdom regardless of build date? In other words, which build dates are considered "good" and which build dates are considered "questionable"?

My 500M has two dates: One on the inside of the panel - top right corner = Nov. 2008 and one on back of the panel = April 2009.

My 101 FD = Dec 2008 inside top right corner and March 2009 back of panel.

Wtf?

- Jaymz

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post #2527 of 2687 Old 04-10-2014, 06:43 PM
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the date on the exterior is the assembly date, on the inside is the panel manufactured date.

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post #2528 of 2687 Old 04-10-2014, 06:52 PM
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the date on the exterior is the assembly date, on the inside is the panel manufactured date.

Cool, thanks for the info Vega! Good to know.

But does anyone know if certain dates coincide with the red tint issue?

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post #2529 of 2687 Old 04-10-2014, 10:53 PM
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Stu,

I tried lowering Red Low per your advice and that improved the reddish tint on my 500M a bit so thanks for that. Come this weekend, I'm still going to try the voltage tweaks and see if that helps even more.

I don't understand why certain Kuros are affected with "red tint" I have a 101fd with 2,000 hours and absolutely NO tint... Has anyone been able to research which build dates are producing the most units affected, or is the tint issue totally ramdom regardless of build date? In other words, which build dates are considered "good" and which build dates are considered "questionable"?

My 500M has two dates: One on the inside of the panel - top right corner = Nov. 2008 and one on back of the panel = April 2009.

My 101 FD = Dec 2008 inside top right corner and March 2009 back of panel.

Wtf?

What is the current rstp value on your red tint afflicted panel?
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post #2530 of 2687 Old 04-10-2014, 10:57 PM
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What is the current rstp value on your red tint afflicted panel?

I'm not too sure at this point...I haven't accessed the service menu yet. I will do so this weekend.

- Jaymz

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post #2531 of 2687 Old 04-11-2014, 03:02 AM
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Hi Alpha-Dog,

When you reduced low red to reduce the tint slightly it's obviously drifted (the calibration numbers originally) which is perfectly normal on any plasma or display tech after x amount of hours. Accessing the ISF control and playing with red gamma may reduce the effects further And/or service menu red low - but it's much more complicated playing with service menu RGB's without proper calibration equipment, than just user menu white balance manual controls which of course has its limitations if all is not well. Do you have calibration equipment/software ?, something i will hopefully be investing in sooner rather than later... But that's not to say you haven't got red tint due to incorrect voltage driving drifting which it sounds like you may (probably) have

If it is very slight - then lowering YKNOFS3D would perhaps help too
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Hi Alpha-Dog,

When you reduced low red to reduce the tint slightly it's obviously drifted (the calibration numbers originally) which is perfectly normal on any plasma or display tech after x amount of hours. Accessing the ISF control and playing with red gamma may reduce the effects further And/or service menu red low - but it's much more complicated playing with service menu RGB's without proper calibration equipment, than just user menu white balance manual controls which of course has its limitations if all is not well. Do you have calibration equipment/software ?, something i will hopefully be investing in sooner rather than later... But that's not to say you haven't got red tint due to incorrect voltage driving drifting which it sounds like you may (probably) have

If it is very slight - then lowering YKNOFS3D would perhaps help too

Hi Stu

Thank you for all the helpful info, I'll definitely access the service menu and give this a go over the weekend. Hopefully it further helps wink.gif I'm by no means a pro and I don't have any calibration discs or tools. Therefore, I can honestly say that I won't be messing around with Isf controls or the service menu red low. I think tweaking voltages is my safest bet as I can always put them back to default if something doesn't look right.

And to answer your question, the red tint is only slight at this point and it's only affecting the right side of the screen...which obviously makes it more noticeable because the middle to left side look totally normal. Hopefully that makes sense? Is it possible that I'm nit-picking this too much or maybe even over-exaggerating? I suppose, but with all the complaints on this thread, I doubt it.

- Jaymz

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post #2533 of 2687 Old 04-11-2014, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

Hi Alpha-Dog,

When you reduced low red to reduce the tint slightly it's obviously drifted (the calibration numbers originally) which is perfectly normal on any plasma or display tech after x amount of hours. Accessing the ISF control and playing with red gamma may reduce the effects further And/or service menu red low - but it's much more complicated playing with service menu RGB's without proper calibration equipment, than just user menu white balance manual controls which of course has its limitations if all is not well. Do you have calibration equipment/software ?, something i will hopefully be investing in sooner rather than later... But that's not to say you haven't got red tint due to incorrect voltage driving drifting which it sounds like you may (probably) have

If it is very slight - then lowering YKNOFS3D would perhaps help too

Hi Stu

Thank you for all the helpful info, I'll definitely access the service menu and give this a go over the weekend. Hopefully it further helps wink.gif I'm by no means a pro and I don't have any calibration discs or tools. Therefore, I can honestly say that I won't be messing around with Isf controls or the service menu red low. I think tweaking voltages is my safest bet as I can always put them back to default if something doesn't look right.

And to answer your question, the red tint is only slight at this point and it's only affecting the right side of the screen...which obviously makes it more noticeable because the middle to left side look totally normal. Hopefully that makes sense? Is it possible that I'm nit-picking this too much or maybe even over-exaggerating? I suppose, but with all the complaints on this thread, I doubt it.

No i don't think you are exaggerating whatsoever tbh - it's there and it's highly distracting as soon as there is no ambient lighting i know i had a terrible case of the red tint that couldn't be cleared with just voltage adjustments without introducing severe side effects. So a reset was my only option (and i had someone help me with that decision who is into video as a profession help me make that decision beforehand originally, after reset i was on my own though he couldn't or would not help with voltages - but luckily mascoir had a good (imo) grasp and it was a starting point for my own tweaks afterwards. Reset is the last resort - for the most extreme examples of the red tint only. If a little tweak here if there of a voltage or voltages clears it then that is the simplest way imo.

Basic calibration disks and patterns is all i use atm until i get some 'real' gear. Greyscale patterns are handy for low end RGB near black- and then high. And some clipping patterns help also for contrast, and rgb colour that shouldn't be there - mostly high colours if keep raising contrast up click by click until max until it's clean/white/grey looking only i find.

Good luck with the tweaks keep in touch smile.gif
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post #2534 of 2687 Old 04-11-2014, 06:58 AM
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If the tint is coming from one side or one area it is the red tint monster. Hitman made a good point that there are three types of red tint....

"As mentioned but there is 3 types of red, the normal reddish/purple from the PDP filter, calibration drift in the lower end or the red tint syndrome." Hitman

If the entire screen is plum/red slightly you most likely need a calibration. A tweak will help to if your panel takes it. Lowering blacks will/can remove red tint.

I agree with Stu on this. Once you have spotted red tint it's very hard to look past it. That's my experience as well.
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post #2535 of 2687 Old 04-11-2014, 07:22 AM
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I'll add that in my case on my 151, the red tint began on the bottom right of the screen at @ 500 hrs, and by 1000 hrs the entire screen had a red tint to it. By 2500 hours the tint was invading the pictures blacks.

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post #2536 of 2687 Old 04-11-2014, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

Reset is the last resort - for the most extreme examples of the red tint only. If a little tweak here if there of a voltage or voltages clears it then that is the simplest way imo.

This 100%

I'll use my recently purchased 141fd (4700 hours) and the 600M that I declined to purchase due to red tint and high hours (14800 hrs) as examples.

The red tint on the 600m was more pronounced at the top of the screen but it also filled the entire screen. This was easily visible on the 5% window from the AVSHD709 disc. During regular content, the red tint was undetectable, except for the top part of the screen where the ailment was more pronounced. Luckily, the gentleman that was selling it allowed me to try to tweak it out. RSTP was initially set to 36. I lowered it to 1 and saw some improvement, however, combi mask 9 was littered with magenta sparkles (best use of combi 9 is to have the 5% window up, as the magenta will appear in the black area, while the window area was magenta free). Despite the artifacts, I proceeded to reduce S1, S3 and S4 to minimum values and reduced R-LOW from 500 to 480. Red tint was reduced but still there. There was obviously not enough headroom to eliminate red tint plus there was no wiggle room for adjustment, as any voltage decreased brought forth artifacts. At that point, reset is the only option, but who knows how the panel will react. I remember D-Nice stated that the more hours on your panel the more problems you'll see after reset.

On my 141fd, RSTP was initially set to 18. I increased it to 36 for comparison and sure enough, I saw red tint develop at the bottom of the screen (though the rest of the screen was fine). Once I reduced RSTP to 1, the red tint at the bottom went away and I had absolutely no artifacts on combi mask 9 (perhaps the low hours on my 141 allows more wiggle room for adjustment). Reducing S1, S3 and S4 lowered my black level to the point where my i1 display pro could not read it.

With this experience, I believe that red tint can only be removed by voltage tweaking only if its caught early (plus, it seems like the wiggle room for tweaking decreases as panel hours increase). Reducing RSTP to 1 even if there is no red tint might be a viable preventative measure (which I have implemented on my 141). If the red tint has spread to the entire screen, then reset becomes part of the solution, though be prepared to be greeted by a host of other problems after reset. But at that point, you really don't have a choice.
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post #2537 of 2687 Old 04-11-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by vega509 View Post

I'll add that in my case on my 151, the red tint began on the bottom right of the screen at @ 500 hrs, and by 1000 hrs the entire screen had a red tint to it. By 2500 hours the tint was invading the pictures blacks.

What was your default RSTP?
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post #2538 of 2687 Old 04-11-2014, 02:22 PM
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What was your default RSTP?


29

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29

This has to be the voltage that was set incorrectly at the factory.

My 141 had it set to 18 at the factory, no red tint at the 4700 hour mark.
One of ShockFett's 141 also had it set to 18, no red tint at the 7000 hour mark.
600M had it at 36, red tint up the ass at the 14800 hour mark.
ShockFett's other 141 had it at 36, red tint at 7000 hour mark.
We can add your display to the list.

Perhaps RSTP being set incorrectly from the get-go (at the 0 hour mark) is the cause for the ailment?
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post #2540 of 2687 Old 04-11-2014, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post


This has to be the voltage that was set incorrectly at the factory.

My 141 had it set to 18 at the factory, no red tint at the 4700 hour mark.
One of ShockFett's 141 also had it set to 18, no red tint at the 7000 hour mark.
600M had it at 36, red tint up the ass at the 14800 hour mark.
ShockFett's other 141 had it at 36, red tint at 7000 hour mark.
We can add your display to the list.

Perhaps RSTP being set incorrectly from the get-go (at the 0 hour mark) is the cause for the ailment?


to add to the confusion, a friend bought a 151 at the same time as me, both have Oct 2008 assembly dates, and Aug 2008 panel dates. He has more than 20,000 hours on his set and no red tint or elevated black levels, his RSTP ............... 36. Other than hours, the only difference between our sets is he never ran the break in patterns, where I did for 160 hours. My set has just crossed the 13,000 hour mark, I dropped RSTP to 9, and 1,3, and 4D by 10 each. The red is mostly gone, but the black levels are no where close to when the set was new.

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Mine is @ 28
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Guys which is the value that fixes the black rain issue? I made some adjustments a few weeks back and now noticing the green-black lag. Red tint did diminish and blacks look better, but this is irritating me.
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to add to the confusion, a friend bought a 151 at the same time as me, both have Oct 2008 assembly dates, and Aug 2008 panel dates. He has more than 20,000 hours on his set and no red tint or elevated black levels, his RSTP ............... 36. Other than hours, the only difference between our sets is he never ran the break in patterns, where I did for 160 hours. My set has just crossed the 13,000 hour mark, I dropped RSTP to 9, and 1,3, and 4D by 10 each. The red is mostly gone, but the black levels are no where close to when the set was new.

Well that really thrown a monkey wrench in my theory.

Reduce RSTP to 1 and S1, S3 and S4 to minimum. Hopefully its enough headroom to remove it all.
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Guys which is the value that fixes the black rain issue? I made some adjustments a few weeks back and now noticing the green-black lag. Red tint did diminish and blacks look better, but this is irritating me.

RSTP and/or S1,S3,S4... but doing so will elevate blacks and red tint. Im stuck in the same predicament after resetting my 101fd. Choose the superior blacks, as black rain is only visible in the menus.
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RSTP and/or S1,S3,S4... but doing so will elevate blacks and red tint. Im stuck in the same predicament after resetting my 101fd. Choose the superior blacks, as black rain is only visible in the menus.
Thanks! Unfortunately I am seeing it in content also. I remember the first time I made adjustments that was the case but I did go a bit more aggressive this time. I'll try roll those back a bit and see how I go.
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Thanks! Unfortunately I am seeing it in content also. I remember the first time I made adjustments that was the case but I did go a bit more aggressive this time. I'll try roll those back a bit and see how I go.

Im afraid reset will have to be considered if theres not enough headroom.
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post #2547 of 2687 Old 04-12-2014, 02:09 AM
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RSTP in combination with other voltages is fine. But lowering it on it's own serves only as a disguise for the red tint that will find a way through again.

On a properly set up (not faulty) KURO - all you should see when raising RSTP is the black levels getting brighter and brighter until it's a very bright grey but uniform grey at 255 on a black pattern. There won't be any red tint in there whatsoever in a properly functioning KURO.


If there is tint in there it falls to other voltage adjustments to clean the red tint up first of all - before adjusting RSTP. As it is extremely rare that just lowering RSTP on it's own has enough scope to clear it

On a reset KURO it is best to leave RSTP at it's default factory number from my experience. As re-setting the pulse meter gives black like new anyway.

On faulty Kuro's - FS3D and obviously the three way FSAD control have effects with red tint.
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post #2548 of 2687 Old 04-12-2014, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

RSTP in combination with other voltages is fine. But lowering it on it's own serves only as a disguise for the red tint that will find a way through again.

On a properly set up (not faulty) KURO - all you should see when raising RSTP is the black levels getting brighter and brighter until it's a very bright grey but uniform grey at 255 on a black pattern. There won't be any red tint in there whatsoever in a properly functioning KURO.


If there is tint in there it falls to other voltage adjustments to clean the red tint up first of all - before adjusting RSTP. As it is extremely rare that just lowering RSTP on it's own has enough scope to clear it

On a reset KURO it is best to leave RSTP at it's default factory number from my experience. As re-setting the pulse meter gives black like new anyway.

On faulty Kuro's - FS3D and obviously the three way FSAD control have effects with red tint.

Is it possible the some panels no matter what can not be resolved?

So for testing I should be able to raise rstp. Simulate red tint if it shows. Then adjust other voltages to remove it. Creating more headroom for rstp when I drop it back down? Also where does one start when adjusting voltages to set it up correctly? Which are the ones that truly get the panel back to set up correctly? There has to be some science to this method or I hope! Lol


Also what is the point of a reset if all the voltages can be adjusted in service menu? What exactly does a reset do that can't be done within the service menu?
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post #2549 of 2687 Old 04-12-2014, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ShockFett View Post

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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

RSTP in combination with other voltages is fine. But lowering it on it's own serves only as a disguise for the red tint that will find a way through again.

On a properly set up (not faulty) KURO - all you should see when raising RSTP is the black levels getting brighter and brighter until it's a very bright grey but uniform grey at 255 on a black pattern. There won't be any red tint in there whatsoever in a properly functioning KURO.


If there is tint in there it falls to other voltage adjustments to clean the red tint up first of all - before adjusting RSTP. As it is extremely rare that just lowering RSTP on it's own has enough scope to clear it

On a reset KURO it is best to leave RSTP at it's default factory number from my experience. As re-setting the pulse meter gives black like new anyway.

On faulty Kuro's - FS3D and obviously the three way FSAD control have effects with red tint.

Is it possible the some panels no matter what can not be resolved?

So for testing I should be able to raise rstp. Simulate red tint if it shows. Then adjust other voltages to remove it. Creating more headroom for rstp when I drop it back down? Also where does one start when adjusting voltages to set it up correctly? Which are the ones that truly get the panel back to set up correctly? There has to be some science to this method or I hope! Lol


Also what is the point of a reset if all the voltages can be adjusted in service menu? What exactly does a reset do that can't be done within the service menu?

Resolved...

Do you mean reset only or tweaked only panels ?

For testing (raising RSTP) it would depend solely on what you have adjusted previously.

If you had reset a red afflicted panel and everything was at default voltages wise - you could raise RSTP up and see red tint yeah.

Reset starts the pulse meter again from the beginning - hence the massively low post reset MLL - that you can't do just by lowering voltage/s - hence the 'reset'.

I would concentrate on the most obvious ones that raise tint - and do the obvious opposite by lowering (if you are able without introducing artefacts elsewhere).

Unless talking about reset - then some go up - and a couple go down.

Unfortunately there is no exact science to it - as they haven't all just left the factory and some have aged more than others - of course smile.gif

Anyway i would certainly lower YKNOFS3D - be that either a reset panel - or a non reset panel.

I lowered that by five just before i sold it on as it was one of the voltage changes that affected red tint anyway - and plus it had no obvious or negative reaction after adjustments of the other voltages post reset basically.

We have gathered that the red tint must be caused by an over voltage - because lowering certain voltage/s clears the tint - so it's not being under driven in certain areas I guess lol.

So because the algorithms driving the voltages have started again - there is no red tint to begin with. One of the first people (i forget his user name) reset his panel and did no post reset adjustments whatsoever - and the tint came back in under 800 hrs (i think). Another talked of raising RSTP for black lagging after reset up to 68 or something like that - any higher than that approximate number and the tint started to come back in if i remember correctly. 'Stroud' i think it might have been on that occasion.

On my ex KURO i also remember the tint coming in raising RSTP also - and it also did it with YKNOFSA after reset after it got to about 160 or thereabouts. Raising YKNOFS3D too high will bring it in too.

I would test it on my 500M - but i don't like playing with voltages unnecessarily - because no one has disproved it doesn't muck with pre- set algorithms.

I tried one set of voltages from on here and it made a mess - certainly no discernible lowering of MLL, but blotchy black screen, image ghosting, black lagging - moving image misfiring, artefact ridden whites. eek.gif

So put back promptly and left it there.

Thing is - if adjustments only are the "safe" way - then someone tell me how it is not messing with pre set voltages/algorithms for driving the panel. Because if it has been doing it's thing for thousands of hours then all of a sudden it's being told to do something else with voltage timing or whatever - then how is that any more healthy than starting the process from scratch.

Anyway.
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post #2550 of 2687 Old 04-12-2014, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

Resolved...

Do you mean reset only or tweaked only panels ?

For testing (raising RSTP) it would depend solely on what you have adjusted previously.

If you had reset a red afflicted panel and everything was at default voltages wise - you could raise RSTP up and see red tint yeah.

Reset starts the pulse meter again from the beginning - hence the massively low post reset MLL - that you can't do just by lowering voltage/s - hence the 'reset'.

I would concentrate on the most obvious ones that raise tint - and do the obvious opposite by lowering (if you are able without introducing artefacts elsewhere).

Unless talking about reset - then some go up - and a couple go down.

Unfortunately there is no exact science to it - as they haven't all just left the factory and some have aged more than others - of course smile.gif

Anyway i would certainly lower YKNOFS3D - be that either a reset panel - or a non reset panel.

I lowered that by five just before i sold it on as it was one of the voltage changes that affected red tint anyway - and plus it had no obvious or negative reaction after adjustments of the other voltages post reset basically.

We have gathered that the red tint must be caused by an over voltage - because lowering certain voltage/s clears the tint - so it's not being under driven in certain areas I guess lol.

So because the algorithms driving the voltages have started again - there is no red tint to begin with. One of the first people (i forget his user name) reset his panel and did no post reset adjustments whatsoever - and the tint came back in under 800 hrs (i think). Another talked of raising RSTP for black lagging after reset up to 68 or something like that - any higher than that approximate number and the tint started to come back in if i remember correctly. 'Stroud' i think it might have been on that occasion.

On my ex KURO i also remember the tint coming in raising RSTP also - and it also did it with YKNOFSA after reset after it got to about 160 or thereabouts. Raising YKNOFS3D too high will bring it in too.

I would test it on my 500M - but i don't like playing with voltages unnecessarily - because no one has disproved it doesn't muck with pre- set algorithms.

I tried one set of voltages from on here and it made a mess - certainly no discernible lowering of MLL, but blotchy black screen, image ghosting, black lagging - moving image misfiring, artefact ridden whites. eek.gif

So put back promptly and left it there.

Thing is - if adjustments only are the "safe" way - then someone tell me how it is not messing with pre set voltages/algorithms for driving the panel. Because if it has been doing it's thing for thousands of hours then all of a sudden it's being told to do something else with voltage timing or whatever - then how is that any more healthy than starting the process from scratch.

Anyway.

Im interested to know what voltage adjustment method you applied on your 500m that gave you the laundry list of artifacts while providing 0 improvement in MLL? Because those are the same artifacts Im seeing after resetting my display. Yes they will go away if I raise some voltages, but black level goes up to an unnacceptable level.

IMO, tweaking certain voltages (rstp, s1, s3 and s4) while staying within factory ranges and maintaining factory separation should not affect algorithms as much as resetting all counters and fooling the algorithm and electronics into thinking they are talking to a brand new panel. Plus, youre not really telling the algorithm to do something else by simply lowering the voltage with those guidelines. Rstp is a panel specific voltage anyways, so i dont see why adjusting it without reset would affect the algorithm.

With reset, youre breaking the entire algorithm, hence the need to adjust almost every single voltage in the first page of the panel adj1 menu and some of the voltages in the second page.
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