Originally Posted by ceru
Thx makaveddie81 for all your helpful posts to those that may be a bit apprehensive to resetting. I was able to use KuroKapture to help find out my actual hours I have on my set.
0 ECO: QS3
1 SERIAL: IDPM004153UC
2 HOUR METER: 00054810
3 TOTAL HR METER: 00768140
4 PON COUNTER: 00000135
5 Panel temperature: +28.9
6 Reserved (TEMP0 acquisition): ---.-
7 MAX panel temperature history: +52.5
8 Reserved: ****
9 2 Byte: 56
It looks like I'm over 8200hrs if I'm reading that right. Since I used KuroControl to access the ISF modes, I forgot to take note of the hours I had accumulated before I changed my 500M from NA to EU. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the main culprit behind the red tint was the aging algorithms. I will test again, but even when I tested fairly below factory minimum in the past, I still had red tint. I had lower mll but it still never eliminated the tint (my RSTP is already at 1 from originally 18). Is it safe to say that even if I perform a reset and performed the workflow to recover from under-driven voltage artifacts, red tint would still be present to some minor degree? I feel like in the end, we have only a few choices who want to keep their Kuro's.
1. Either live with inevitable red tint and let the aging algorithms continue to "inaccurately" drive the panel.
2. Reset the display and manually maintain voltages to drive the panels.
I think a lot of the Kuro owners on here who have been sharing information are really semi-tinkerers at heart. The last time I've really felt the absolute need to venture into the service menu was back in my CRT RPTV days. Usually, I only go to the service menu if either I needed White balance control or wanted to set Calibration/White Balance defaults for a TV out of convenience. So for all practical purposes, I'm doing this because I want to extract the most out of what I expect from my display. I still think this display is far and away better than 90% of what is out TV-wise even in 2015.
Yes, you are at the 8229 hour mark. Sounds like your red tint is severe if you are still seeing it with voltages set below factory minimums. How far below the minimums did you go? I had to go down 30 ticks below minimum (S1 87, S3 77, S4 97) to get rid of red tint on a 101fd, though the black rain artifact was pretty bad. I ended up settling for 97, 87, 107 to reduce the black rain effect.
I am not sure if you will be back at square 1 with red tint if you reset and increase S1, S3 and S4 to remove artifacts. There is a way to reset your panel, see how it reacts to the reset and undo the reset to bring your hour and pulses back to their pre-reset state. This method was discovered by Shockfett, who was kind enough to share it with me:
Access service menu
Go to ETC > EEPROM > Delete
The blue LED will start blinking
Now go back to the screen that displays your hour and pulse meter count. You should see "NO DATA" and "ADJUSTED". If not, restart procedure.
Reset your pulse meter. Hour meter is purely cosmetic and does not need to be reset.
Put TV on standby by pressing the standby button on the remote... DO NOT PRESS THE POWER SWITCH ON THE TV OR UNPLUG THE SET.
Press the standby button again to wake the TV up. The blue LED will keep blinking.
Go to the screen that displays your hour and pulse meter count. All five pulse meters will be at 0.
Adjust voltages and test at your leisure
If you want to undo the reset and any voltage adjustments you performed, go to ETC > BACKUP DATA > TRANSFER
If you want to keep the reset and any voltage adjustments you performed, go to ETC > EEPROM > REPAIR
Put TV on standby and wake it up again. The blue LED will stop flashing.
Go to the screen that displays your hour and pulse meter count. If you did not keep the reset, your pulse counts will be back at their pre-reset state.
If you want an explanation of what exactly happens in the background, get with ShockFett. From what I understand, the KURO keeps all service menu settings in two separate memory banks - EEPROM and the digital board. This is similar to a router, where there is a running configuration and a startup configuration. By default, the Kuro makes changes to both the EEPROM and digital board simultaneously. What this procedure does is, its forcing the Kuro to make changes to only the digital board, while leaving the EEPROM intact. The blinking blue LED indicates when the Kuro is forced to behave in this manner. When you decide to undo the reset, you are simply transferring the untouched EEPROM settings to the digital board, effectively overwriting all the changes you made to the digital board. When you decide to keep the reset, then you are "repairing" the EEPROM by copying the modified settings from the digital board to EEPROM.
Again, this is something ShockFett discovered and we each tested on our panels. This is how I realized that I got identical results when performing a reset and simply reducing voltages below factory minimum values.
Now, I am not sure if the reset does something else to clear the red tint, which is why I am presenting this option to you.