Official Pioneer Kuro Reddish Tint Problem Thread - Page 93 - AVS Forum
View Poll Results: Does your Kuro have a reddish tint to the blacks?
KRP-500M/KRP-600M - NO 11 15.07%
5020FD/6020FD - NO 4 5.48%
111FD/151FD - NO 9 12.33%
101FD/141FD - NO 8 10.96%
Other/Older Model (please post) - NO 6 8.22%
KRP-500M/KRP-600M - YES 18 24.66%
5020FD/6020FD - YES 11 15.07%
111FD/151FD - YES 5 6.85%
101FD/141FD - YES 3 4.11%
Other/Older Model (please post) - YES 1 1.37%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 73. You may not vote on this poll

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post #2761 of 2778 Old 01-05-2015, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tubby497 View Post
Yes, but the menu layout may be different. Tweak methods are same though. Make sure you write down the factory settings.

Thank you.
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post #2762 of 2778 Old 01-07-2015, 09:41 AM
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Quick update on my 500M. I've noticed that my black levels have risen a bit over time and that's why the black rain effect is all but gone. I may get the laptop out tonight to check the hours. I may even tweak some of the settings. I'll post here if I do. Oh no red tint return.

The television screen is the retina of the mind's eye.
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post #2763 of 2778 Old 01-07-2015, 10:35 AM
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I have a going-on 8 year-old PRO-150FD w/10,000(+) hours of operation and voted:

Other/Older Model (please post) - NO
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post #2764 of 2778 Old 01-07-2015, 07:23 PM
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So my pass through serial cable and TU-S9 USB to serial cable arrived but I'm having a hell of a time getting the Kuro to react to any commands. I installed the device driver for the adapter and it seems to be properly detected as COM 3. But nothing successfully reaches the Kuro. Kuro Control times out. Kuro Capture appears to be working but doesn't return any data. I'll try Kuro Command tomorrow. The set is a 5020FD. My laptop is running Windows 8.1 Has anyone else dealt with a similar issue?
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post #2765 of 2778 Old 01-10-2015, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
So my pass through serial cable and TU-S9 USB to serial cable arrived but I'm having a hell of a time getting the Kuro to react to any commands. I installed the device driver for the adapter and it seems to be properly detected as COM 3. But nothing successfully reaches the Kuro. Kuro Control times out. Kuro Capture appears to be working but doesn't return any data. I'll try Kuro Command tomorrow. The set is a 5020FD. My laptop is running Windows 8.1 Has anyone else dealt with a similar issue?
Just in case it happens to anyone else... I was able to proceed by entering the integrator menu and changing the baud rate from 19200 to 9600. No idea why it was off the default.
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post #2766 of 2778 Old 01-12-2015, 10:10 AM
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I was able to greatly reduce but I don't believe completely eliminate the red tint on the used (with 10k hours) 5020FD I purchased last week.


Factory settings:


VOL SUS: 128
VOL OFFSET: 140
VOL RST P: 012
VOL XPOFS1: 085
VOL XPOFS2: 047
VOL YKNOFS1 D: 143
VOL YKNOFS3 D: 128
VOL YKNOFS4 D: 172

VOL YKNOFSA D: 128


New Settings:


VOL SUS: 128
VOL OFFSET: 140
VOL RST P: 001
VOL XPOFS1: 085
VOL XPOFS2: 047
VOL YKNOFS1 D: 113
VOL YKNOFS3 D: 98
(Below Minimum?)
VOL YKNOFS4 D: 142
VOL YKNOFSA D: 128


I believe I could have gone a little lower than -30 but a full black screen seemed a bit blotchy after it settled for a few seconds so this seemed to be a good compromise.


I can only see a hint of red along the bottom in a pitch black room with almost no bright content on the screen. Any brightness to the picture being displayed or any ambient light in the room and I can no longer perceive it. I'm fine with it for now and will not take further steps to reset it etc. My id3 can't measure the black level and I would not have been able to get as nice of a display for what I bought this one for. Even if the tint returns I don't mind adjusting again and maybe OLED will be affordable eventually.


Now I just need to decide if the Control Cal profiles for $100 are worth it for grayscale calibration alone or if I should just leave it well enough alone. I also have a spare I/O board and may pursue a E-Lite conversion.
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post #2767 of 2778 Old 01-12-2015, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I was able to greatly reduce but I don't believe completely eliminate the red tint on the used (with 10k hours) 5020FD I purchased last week.


Factory settings:


VOL SUS: 128
VOL OFFSET: 140
VOL RST P: 012
VOL XPOFS1: 085
VOL XPOFS2: 047
VOL YKNOFS1 D: 143
VOL YKNOFS3 D: 128
VOL YKNOFS4 D: 172

VOL YKNOFSA D: 128


New Settings:


VOL SUS: 128
VOL OFFSET: 140
VOL RST P: 001
VOL XPOFS1: 085
VOL XPOFS2: 047
VOL YKNOFS1 D: 113
VOL YKNOFS3 D: 98
(Below Minimum?)
VOL YKNOFS4 D: 142
VOL YKNOFSA D: 128


I believe I could have gone a little lower than -30 but a full black screen seemed a bit blotchy after it settled for a few seconds so this seemed to be a good compromise.


I can only see a hint of red along the bottom in a pitch black room with almost no bright content on the screen. Any brightness to the picture being displayed or any ambient light in the room and I can no longer perceive it. I'm fine with it for now and will not take further steps to reset it etc. My id3 can't measure the black level and I would not have been able to get as nice of a display for what I bought this one for. Even if the tint returns I don't mind adjusting again and maybe OLED will be affordable eventually.


Now I just need to decide if the Control Cal profiles for $100 are worth it for grayscale calibration alone or if I should just leave it well enough alone. I also have a spare I/O board and may pursue a E-Lite conversion.
Control Cal is worth it only if you convert the 5020 to an ELITE, since the conversion will allows you to use the ISF picture modes for calibration.
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post #2768 of 2778 Old 01-13-2015, 06:43 AM
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Since when were the CC profiles $100? Aren't they $30?

home theater addict
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post #2769 of 2778 Old 01-13-2015, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post
Since when were the CC profiles $100? Aren't they $30?
I was quoted $50 each for two profiles on an unmodified 5020FD. One to calibrate and another that supports the 72hz movie mode. The individual responding was very patient with my questions.
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post #2770 of 2778 Old 01-13-2015, 09:13 AM
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I made some more adjustments. I seem to get the best results with RST left at the default of 12 and 1_2, 3 and 4 lowered to the minimums for a 50 inch as shown in the attached.


No artifacts that I can see. Blacks look a tiny bit brighter than with RST at 1 or 2 but still can't be measured by my iD3 so I'm fine with them. No red tint in letterboxes in a dark room but I still perceive a little on the edges of the screen on a full black screen (And I can live with that). Black screens are also more uniform now without the splotchy patches.
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post #2771 of 2778 Old 01-13-2015, 11:34 AM
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And after even MORE testing I may have finally removed the red tint...Just not sure if I will leave it like this.


RST is definitely still at the default of 12. Lowering it doesn't seem to help with red tint and makes black screen extremely splotchy.


I'm using the darker scenes in chapter two of Gravity to test and I can completely eliminated the red tint in letter boxes by going extremely low on the other settings:


S1_2 101
S3 86
S4 132


Content looks great with this so I have to assume the aging algorithm is doing something behind the scenes because I would expect it to look much worse.


But when I run some test patterns I get a few artifacts....slight cyan sparkle on portions of a full white screen and some dead or weak pixels scattered around the display. But nothing I can see from my seating position so I may try and leave it like this for awhile (I tweaked it a few volts in either direction to find a sweet spot). Eliminating the tint may be worth it, and for what I paid for it I'm fine if this TV is a test bed.
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post #2772 of 2778 Old 01-13-2015, 01:05 PM
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Zero success with this for my 101FD. RSTP was 5 out of the box if I recall, dropping it to 1 and the other settings to factory minimum made no noticeable difference.

Am I just SOL?
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post #2773 of 2778 Old 01-13-2015, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by t4t3r View Post
Zero success with this for my 101FD. RSTP was 5 out of the box if I recall, dropping it to 1 and the other settings to factory minimum made no noticeable difference.

Am I just SOL?
Is it afflicted with red tint or are you just trying to lower black level?

If the latter, I would leave it alone.

If the former, then you could go below the factory minimum values on S1, S3 and S4.
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post #2774 of 2778 Old 01-13-2015, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Is it afflicted with red tint or are you just trying to lower black level?

If the latter, I would leave it alone.

If the former, then you could go below the factory minimum values on S1, S3 and S4.

It is the former. I went to approx 10 below factory minimum for 1, 3, and 4, and it cleaned up the red tint a good bit. Left RSTP at 5.

How much lower can I try to go, and am I doing any damage going below factory min?



Thanks
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post #2775 of 2778 Old 01-13-2015, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4t3r View Post
It is the former. I went to approx 10 below factory minimum for 1, 3, and 4, and it cleaned up the red tint a good bit. Left RSTP at 5.

How much lower can I try to go, and am I doing any damage going below factory min?

Thanks
Not sure how much lower. I'm starting to believe that the voltages (the internal values... what you are adjusting are simply offsets) were set too high at the factory on panels afflicted with red tint. So perhaps how much lower you can go depends on the extent of the red tint.

I went 30 below minimum on one of my 101fd's and removed the red tint. However, the black rain/lag was pretty bad.
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post #2776 of 2778 Old 01-13-2015, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4t3r View Post
It is the former. I went to approx 10 below factory minimum for 1, 3, and 4, and it cleaned up the red tint a good bit. Left RSTP at 5.

How much lower can I try to go, and am I doing any damage going below factory min?



Thanks
I have spent several hundred hours below factory minimum on 2 different 101s , I have not seen any damage , I can raise and lower 1,3,4 with the same results .
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post #2777 of 2778 Old 01-14-2015, 07:00 AM
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Thank you makaveddie and qwknuff for the responses. At 10 below min there is still a little bit of red so I'm going to do some more tweaking tonight. I think I bumped 134 to 20 below min and the only thing I noticed was a little bit of blotchiness in the blacks, but I had to be right up on the display to see it.

So grateful for this thread and these tweaks!
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post #2778 of 2778 Old 01-14-2015, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I was quoted $50 each for two profiles on an unmodified 5020FD. One to calibrate and another that supports the 72hz movie mode. The individual responding was very patient with my questions.
My mistake. I misunderstood. Both profiles were $50. They worked great. Colors and grayscale are much more accurate now.
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