Official Pioneer Kuro Reddish Tint Problem Thread - Page 98 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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View Poll Results: Does your Kuro have a reddish tint to the blacks?
KRP-500M/KRP-600M - NO 18 14.17%
5020FD/6020FD - NO 5 3.94%
111FD/151FD - NO 19 14.96%
101FD/141FD - NO 11 8.66%
Other/Older Model (please post) - NO 9 7.09%
KRP-500M/KRP-600M - YES 28 22.05%
5020FD/6020FD - YES 14 11.02%
111FD/151FD - YES 14 11.02%
101FD/141FD - YES 7 5.51%
Other/Older Model (please post) - YES 6 4.72%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 127. You may not vote on this poll

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post #2911 of 2939 Old 01-13-2016, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblakeney View Post
Happy to say that the red tint is 100% gone!

Bringing vol rstp down to 0 helped remove the vleed that went towards the center of the screen but not the top and bottom edges. It was the worst there after all.

Bringing SAD down to 108 took it down a whole bunch more. Butnin order to completely eliminate it I have to take SAD down to the lower 90s.

I haven't had enough time to test the impact of this yet. I did read that the 50 inchers are more resilient to lower settings than the larger brothers.

Only other thing I noticed is that when I turn off the TV, I can see some light IR if there was a bright static image. I have to be stupidly close to the screen to see it. Could have been there all along and I just didn't notice.

Eddie or anyone else still reading this thread, what's your opinion of goimg below recommended SAD to get rid of the tint? Has anyone seen any catastrophic issues? Would rather lower just these instead of a full reset if it can be avoided.

I don't have oled blacks right now, bit I've got untinted blacks which is all I was after anyways!
If you set RSTP to 0, then it will revert back to default upon the next power up. The lowest possible setting is 1.

You probably had to go to 98 on SAD because RSTP reverted back to default. Try RSTP at 1 and SAD at 108.

Going below defaults won't make the TV explode, but you may see some image retention when going to black and some black lag.

You should not pursue OLED blacks. None of the models in the Kuro spectrum were designed to achieve OLED blacks. You can certainly get crazy low blacks on the 101 and 500M, but at the expense of terrible IR, black lag and dirty low APL.

Reset should be the last resort. If lowering voltages hid the red tint, then stick with that.

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post #2912 of 2939 Old 01-13-2016, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
If you set RSTP to 0, then it will revert back to default upon the next power up. The lowest possible setting is 1.

You probably had to go to 98 on SAD because RSTP reverted back to default. Try RSTP at 1 and SAD at 108.

Going below defaults won't make the TV explode, but you may see some image retention when going to black and some black lag.

You should not pursue OLED blacks. None of the models in the Kuro spectrum were designed to achieve OLED blacks. You can certainly get crazy low blacks on the 101 and 500M, but at the expense of terrible IR, black lag and dirty low APL.

Reset should be the last resort. If lowering voltages hid the red tint, then stick with that.
Vol rstp at 0 was a typo. It was at 1. Still needed to take SAD to 95 to get rid of the red completely. Significantly reduced at 108 to the point that it's not invading the picture anymore, but I was just fiddling to see what it took to eliminate completely.

The only IR I noticed was when I shut off the TV. But I set everything back to defaults and shut if off and noticed the same thing, just not quite as bad. It fades away by itself though after a bit.
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post #2913 of 2939 Old 01-13-2016, 08:07 PM
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Tired white patterns and could see the aforementioned cyan and magenta misfires. Raising SAD back up gets rid of those at the expense of black level rising and soem low red tint.

Seems that I have limited range to lower SAD on this set until those misfires start up. They are only visible from way up close. Cant see a thing from normal viewing distance.

Have you found a happy medium where no artifacts are present and tint is gone? Or do you deal small misfires? I'd like to know your opinion. In the meantime I set SAD back to 128 and am just running with the lowered rstp.
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post #2914 of 2939 Old 01-13-2016, 10:55 PM
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0 iis not a valid value, what you did will help nothing, first time you turn off completely the tv it will go back to default.
1 is the lowest allowed value.
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post #2915 of 2939 Old 01-13-2016, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblakeney View Post
Tired white patterns and could see the aforementioned cyan and magenta misfires. Raising SAD back up gets rid of those at the expense of black level rising and soem low red tint.

Seems that I have limited range to lower SAD on this set until those misfires start up. They are only visible from way up close. Cant see a thing from normal viewing distance.

Have you found a happy medium where no artifacts are present and tint is gone? Or do you deal small misfires? I'd like to know your opinion. In the meantime I set SAD back to 128 and am just running with the lowered rstp.
Its all about finding a happy medium really. I would leave rstp at 1 and set sad to the middle of the range (118).
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post #2916 of 2939 Old 01-19-2016, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Its all about finding a happy medium really. I would leave rstp at 1 and set sad to the middle of the range (118).
My set seems to run happily with RSTP at 1 and SAD at or near 118 without and misfires or lazy pixels

Question...do the misfire/lazy pixels cause any real problems? Cause I can get rid of the tint 100% by bringing SAD close to 105 and can't see the sparkles from regular viewing distance. If damage can occur, this is a no-go, but wanted to know what you guys think!
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post #2917 of 2939 Old 01-19-2016, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblakeney View Post
My set seems to run happily with RSTP at 1 and SAD at or near 118 without and misfires or lazy pixels

Question...do the misfire/lazy pixels cause any real problems? Cause I can get rid of the tint 100% by bringing SAD close to 105 and can't see the sparkles from regular viewing distance. If damage can occur, this is a no-go, but wanted to know what you guys think!
In my experience it doesn't.
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post #2918 of 2939 Old 03-12-2016, 01:06 PM
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Help sudden jump in brightness on input 5.

Last night switching from one program source on input 5.
( Netflix via Apple TV) To PVR ( pre/pro doing the switch ahead of the input).
There was an obvious jump I brightness levels and I had not changed any of the controls ( I have been doing some calibration routines of late using calman/controlcal and getting good outcomes).
I tried resetting everything ( pre/pro, Kuro, lut box, etc.) with no luck.
Then I tried lowering black by reducing brightness control from "0" to minus 20 ish. That seemed to work ..........strange!
Then I switched to input 6 (that had great blacks, while leaving brightness untouched (0))!

Went back to input 5 the underlying problem there remained, (still need large brightness "offset").
Do I have a bad or failed input, full memory stack on input 5 (is there an input specific reset possible)?
I would very much appreciate anyone's ideas or experiences or contributions.
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post #2919 of 2939 Old 05-22-2016, 09:36 PM
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Okay guys i recently got a kuro elite 111fd and it had red tint. I used the service menu to adjust voltages and i got all the red tint gone and imsanely good black levels.

I was even able to get rid of the jumping red pixels.

But i did get some issues in exchange.

Ive noticed that there seems to be some light bleed on the top and bottom edges. Also image retention got pretty bad. And there seems to be a lag when i first turn on thr set. The blacks are greyish then after a few seconds get inky black again.

Is there a way to eliminate this or does it come with voltage adjustments?

Thanks
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post #2920 of 2939 Old 05-23-2016, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Jacinto1023 View Post
Okay guys i recently got a kuro elite 111fd and it had red tint. I used the service menu to adjust voltages and i got all the red tint gone and imsanely good black levels.

I was even able to get rid of the jumping red pixels.

But i did get some issues in exchange.

Ive noticed that there seems to be some light bleed on the top and bottom edges. Also image retention got pretty bad. And there seems to be a lag when i first turn on thr set. The blacks are greyish then after a few seconds get inky black again.

Is there a way to eliminate this or does it come with voltage adjustments?

Thanks
Please post your final voltages and total usage hours on the set.

What you're seeing is not light bleed. The perimeter of the screen is actually the stock black level and the center is darker because of the voltage tweak.

The lag is normal even on non tweaked sets, though it does get a bit worse on tweaked sets. No big deal.

Blacks looking grey then stepping down to inky black is normal start up sequence, again also seen on non tweaked sets.

Like most who have tweaked or reset, you're being more critical and looking for things.

You may want to try a pulse meter reset (using the safe method that allows you to roll back) to compare the results of tweak and reset and determine which better suits your needs.
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post #2921 of 2939 Old 05-23-2016, 05:50 AM
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okay i will get the Final Voltages. There is about 9000 Hours on the set.

I can deal with the Set turning on grey and then settling to its regular black, now that i think of it my Samsung did it also. i'm glad its normal.

Is there a way to get the perimeter of the screen to match the lowered blacks? or is this lighter perimeter the best it will be? and is the Image retention also normal for a tweaked set? i only notice it if i switch to a all black screen and stare. the image never stays burned in. just the image retention lasts longer now that its tweaked then fades.

Is Image retention what you mean by the lag? ive noticed that if i go to a all black screen it will start to get really black to the new mll levels but it seems to do it in like spots or blotches. looks like LCD clouding.
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post #2922 of 2939 Old 05-23-2016, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Jacinto1023 View Post
okay i will get the Final Voltages. There is about 9000 Hours on the set.

I can deal with the Set turning on grey and then settling to its regular black, now that i think of it my Samsung did it also. i'm glad its normal.

Is there a way to get the perimeter of the screen to match the lowered blacks? or is this lighter perimeter the best it will be? and is the Image retention also normal for a tweaked set? i only notice it if i switch to a all black screen and stare. the image never stays burned in. just the image retention lasts longer now that its tweaked then fades.

Is Image retention what you mean by the lag? ive noticed that if i go to a all black screen it will start to get really black to the new mll levels but it seems to do it in like spots or blotches. looks like LCD clouding.
You probably tweaked the voltages lower than you should have. Then again, those symptoms are normal for a reset display or an aggressively tweaked display. Sounds like you need to find a good middle ground between red tint and the symptoms and be less aggressive with the adjustments.

Remember, voltages have absolutely nothing to do with red tint. It just so happens that lowering them lowers mll which in turn hides the red tint. The Kuro's can only go so low with regards to mll so if you push them beyond their capability, they will manifest the symptoms you're observing. Sadly, if the red tint is too aggressive, then aggressive adjustment is needed to properly hide it.

One of my 111fd's had very bad red tint. I ended up resetting it and although the blotch in the middle was still there (with the perimeter being lighter) after adjustment, it was not as bad as when I tweaked voltages. The lighter area will always be where the location of the red tint.

You may want to give reset a shot, using the safe method outlined below which will allow you to roll back to pre-reset.

1. open service menu and go to etc > digital eeprom > delete
2. hold enter button for 5 seconds
3. red led turns on and blue led flashes
4. go to panel information screen
dig. eep should say no data!
backup should say adjusted
5. reset pulse meter
6. put tv on standby and take it out of standby, do not turn off or unplug.
7. Make sure all voltages are at default (except RSTP, set it to 18).
access factory menu and display Combi Mask 6.
8. Raise SAD in 10 tick increments until Combi Mask 6 is clear of misfires.
9. Put up a white field. If aqua colored misfires appear, raise SAD in 10 tick increments until misfires clear. If magenta misfires appear, lower XSUSB and YSUSB simultaneously in 1 tick decrements until misfires clear.
11. Put up a black field and, if red tint persists, lower RSTP. You may raise SAD to counter any black lag / black splotch caused by lowering RSTP.
12. Exit factory mode and test content.
13. to keep the reset, go to etc > digital eeprom > repair and hold enter button for 5 seconds
14. to undo the reset, go to etc > backup data > transfer and hold enter button for 5 seconds
15. put tv on standby and take it out of standby, do not turn off or unplug.

Unless you write down your pre-reset service menu grayscale settings for all drive modes, your display will need to be recalibrated as the grayscale will be heavy on red. I have software that will automatically save your prereset service menu gray scale and apply the necessary deltas to preserve your existing calibration. All with a couple of mouse clicks.

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post #2923 of 2939 Old 05-24-2016, 07:52 PM
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That seems to complicated for me, I'm scared I'll mess it up. I upped the voltages a bit and was able to reduce the perimeter brightness and still get rid of the red tint. The blacks are blacker then ever and there's just a slight amount of image retention when switching to a all black screen but you have to literally be like a few inches away from the screen. At normal viewing distance and conditions it's non existsnt.

Plus I added some ambient lights and the results is a black hole black level. Unreal
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post #2924 of 2939 Old 06-11-2016, 05:12 PM
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........
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post #2925 of 2939 Old 06-11-2016, 07:19 PM
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My LX508a has now started having yellowish blobs come through after an hour or so of operation. Seems to go away the next day but creeps back in. Anyone else had this occur?
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post #2926 of 2939 Old 06-12-2016, 04:52 AM
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Never seen any yellow on mine
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post #2927 of 2939 Old 06-12-2016, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post
Unless you write down your pre-reset service menu grayscale settings for all drive modes, your display will need to be recalibrated as the grayscale will be heavy on red. I have software that will automatically save your prereset service menu gray scale and apply the necessary deltas to preserve your existing calibration. All with a couple of mouse clicks.
It's not like I wish to argue about the possible usefulness of that tool but I noticed my factory white-point settings were somewhat out of sync between the drive modes (~8500 hours, non-reset). Going from 60Hz to 72Hz was an unnoticeable dE~1 relative difference (and the black screen during the transition between display modes further helped to mask any difference from my naked eyes) but 100Hz showed dE~5 and it was clearly noticeable without the aid of a sensor (as well as the loss of precision is notable without test patterns).

So, I got them synced the hard way. I jumped in and out of the SM until an ISF mode with Manual white point R=G=B=0 measured close enough to D65 in all modes.
I found it better to leave the Manual per-channel digital contrast controls at their neutral setting (or use Low which is the same) and use the SM to set the white point to the desired color, the same way it's better to leave Contrast at 40 (where it's just about the clip the top) and decrease the peak brightness by other means (in my case, I let the room sensor handling it in ISF-Auto but there is also an "energy save" thingy which could probably be used for this purpose).

"DIY certified hobby-calibrator" (based on ChadB's "warning signs" list
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post #2928 of 2939 Old 06-13-2016, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by janos666 View Post
It's not like I wish to argue about the possible usefulness of that tool but I noticed my factory white-point settings were somewhat out of sync between the drive modes (~8500 hours, non-reset). Going from 60Hz to 72Hz was an unnoticeable dE~1 relative difference (and the black screen during the transition between display modes further helped to mask any difference from my naked eyes) but 100Hz showed dE~5 and it was clearly noticeable without the aid of a sensor (as well as the loss of precision is notable without test patterns).

So, I got them synced the hard way. I jumped in and out of the SM until an ISF mode with Manual white point R=G=B=0 measured close enough to D65 in all modes.
I found it better to leave the Manual per-channel digital contrast controls at their neutral setting (or use Low which is the same) and use the SM to set the white point to the desired color, the same way it's better to leave Contrast at 40 (where it's just about the clip the top) and decrease the peak brightness by other means (in my case, I let the room sensor handling it in ISF-Auto but there is also an "energy save" thingy which could probably be used for this purpose).
I made another tool that makes what you did (jumping into service menu and calibrating each drive mode) super easy. Unfortunately I cannot distribute it.

I usually calibrate 60 and 72Hz since those are the most used in US models. I've never heard of a 100Hz mode.

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post #2929 of 2939 Old 06-13-2016, 12:30 PM
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50Hz source + drive mode 2 = 100Hz
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post #2930 of 2939 Old 06-13-2016, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by lnarbi View Post
50Hz source + drive mode 2 = 100Hz
The European sets may be different, but none of the US service manuals mention a 100Hz drive mode. There are 7 total drive sequences in the US models, with each being pairing an ABL table (there are 3 total) and a white balance table (there are 4 total). There is a drive mode setting that has three possible options: 1 Standard, 2 Cinema and 3 Text but there is no mention of a relationship between these modes and the sequences.

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post #2931 of 2939 Old 06-13-2016, 10:02 PM
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The 50Hz mode is the 100Hz mode in fact, the european ones are the same as far as I know.
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post #2932 of 2939 Old 06-15-2016, 07:32 PM
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I can't find the thread that explains how to use Kuro control to enter service menu and adjust voltages
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post #2933 of 2939 Old 06-19-2016, 07:36 AM
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It's in the reset thread, page 38 or thereabouts. I want to say enter fay, then facs01
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post #2934 of 2939 Old 07-08-2016, 12:10 PM
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Help!!! the remote for my Pioneer Kuro LX5090 all of a sudden stopped working... Well it started f*ing up. It can turn the TV on/off, it can mute/unmute and it can switch between HDMI inputs.

However when I press the menu button, it doesn't work!

batteries are working (obviously since it can turn off and mute) but for some reason the menu and other buttons don't work.

Please help

Thanks in advance
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post #2935 of 2939 Old 07-08-2016, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnellTHX View Post
Help!!! the remote for my Pioneer Kuro LX5090 all of a sudden stopped working... Well it started f*ing up. It can turn the TV on/off, it can mute/unmute and it can switch between HDMI inputs.

However when I press the menu button, it doesn't work!

batteries are working (obviously since it can turn off and mute) but for some reason the menu and other buttons don't work.

Please help

Thanks in advance
This might not be of any help, but are you sure the remote has not accidentally been set to control a different device - the Pioneer remotes can often also control Set-Top-Boxes, Blu-Rays, etc
When in that mode, certain buttons still work as the panel is the only thing that can accept that function.
My (never actually used) Pioneer remote has a 'select' button at the bottom, with a row of small LEDs to indicate which function has been selected.
Hope it helps, regards, Mike.
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post #2936 of 2939 Old 07-08-2016, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_mike View Post
This might not be of any help, but are you sure the remote has not accidentally been set to control a different device - the Pioneer remotes can often also control Set-Top-Boxes, Blu-Rays, etc
When in that mode, certain buttons still work as the panel is the only thing that can accept that function.
My (never actually used) Pioneer remote has a 'select' button at the bottom, with a row of small LEDs to indicate which function has been selected.
Hope it helps, regards, Mike.
This.

It's happened to me before, where the mode button was hit inadvertently by a user other than myself.

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post #2937 of 2939 Old 07-09-2016, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnellTHX View Post
Help!!! the remote for my Pioneer Kuro LX5090 all of a sudden stopped working... Well it started f*ing up. It can turn the TV on/off, it can mute/unmute and it can switch between HDMI inputs.

However when I press the menu button, it doesn't work!

batteries are working (obviously since it can turn off and mute) but for some reason the menu and other buttons don't work.

Please help

Thanks in advance
Funny that exact thing happened to me with my 5080 only I dropped mine, just once. It was a used set so I don't know how many times the previous owner might have dropped it but I've dropped my Verizon remote over 20 times and it's even come apart only for me to put it back together and it still works. The 9G Kuro remote seems much more stable than the 8G though idk if there is any difference between American/ European. I just thought of it though because literally the same exact buttons that work for you worked for me after I dropped it... mute, inputs, power and that was it. I couldn't get into the Menu or do anything else.

It could be a pain in the a** to try and find another one off Ebay or something and people can charge a lot for them. I got lucky and the guy I bought my 111FD from literally had an extra 8G Kuro remote and I sold the set to my friend
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post #2938 of 2939 Old 07-09-2016, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Vader1 View Post
Funny that exact thing happened to me with my 5080 only I dropped mine, just once. It was a used set so I don't know how many times the previous owner might have dropped it but I've dropped my Verizon remote over 20 times and it's even come apart only for me to put it back together and it still works. The 9G Kuro remote seems much more stable than the 8G though idk if there is any difference between American/ European. I just thought of it though because literally the same exact buttons that work for you worked for me after I dropped it... mute, inputs, power and that was it. I couldn't get into the Menu or do anything else.

It could be a pain in the a** to try and find another one off Ebay or something and people can charge a lot for them. I got lucky and the guy I bought my 111FD from literally had an extra 8G Kuro remote and I sold the set to my friend
Yeah I usually see them around ~$50 but recently was able to buy one off eBay for $12 plus $5 shipping (very gently used).

Saw a bunch of 'new' ones for similar prices from China and Japan. Don't know if I would trust those but I guess if the seller ratings look ok...tv part replacement sites charge up to $70 or $80 which I think is ridiculous
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post #2939 of 2939 Old 07-09-2016, 09:29 AM
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Yeah 50 is about the average I've seen.
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