Official 2011 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 1088 Old 12-06-2011, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moshock View Post

So if I find D-Nice's settings a bit too bland, how do I make it a little more bright and punchy without sacrificing too much accuracy?...

Note: I have a May Build 60ST30, A Board coming Friday...

P.S. Note: Will these settings look different with a new A Board?

Keep watching it the way it is. You need a few days to adjust to what the colors are supposed to look like. Once this happens it will be much more gratifying.
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post #182 of 1088 Old 12-06-2011, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn74 View Post

Keep watching it the way it is. You need a few days to adjust to what the colors are supposed to look like. Once this happens it will be much more gratifying.

I understand what you're saying, but it's just way too dim for me. My 60ST30 is replacing a 50G15, which I used CNET's settings for at the time, but also had to bump the brightness up a bit...

I noticed a LOT of people bringing panel brightness from Low to Mid... so I tried that... it looks SO much better to me... And I also changed Warm2 to Warm1, which reduced the redness of flesh tones on my DirecTV...

So far then... I'm using D-Nice's settings with only two changes...

Panel Brightness: Low --> Mid
Color Temp: Warm2 --> Warm1

Much improved to me. I'll keep playing with it...
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post #183 of 1088 Old 12-06-2011, 06:33 PM
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... delete ...
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post #184 of 1088 Old 12-06-2011, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moshock View Post


I understand what you're saying, but it's just way too dim for me. My 60ST30 is replacing a 50G15, which I used CNET's settings for at the time, but also had to bump the brightness up a bit...

I noticed a LOT of people bringing panel brightness from Low to Mid... so I tried that... it looks SO much better to me... And I also changed Warm2 to Warm1, which reduced the redness of flesh tones on my DirecTV...

So far then... I'm using D-Nice's settings with only two changes...

Panel Brightness: Low --> Mid
Color Temp: Warm2 --> Warm1

Much improved to me. I'll keep playing with it...

But those two changes are major and change everything...
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post #185 of 1088 Old 12-06-2011, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moshock View Post

I understand what you're saying, but it's just way too dim for me. My 60ST30 is replacing a 50G15, which I used CNET's settings for at the time, but also had to bump the brightness up a bit...

I noticed a LOT of people bringing panel brightness from Low to Mid... so I tried that... it looks SO much better to me... And I also changed Warm2 to Warm1, which reduced the redness of flesh tones on my DirecTV...

So far then... I'm using D-Nice's settings with only two changes...

Panel Brightness: Low --> Mid
Color Temp: Warm2 --> Warm1

Much improved to me. I'll keep playing with it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn74 View Post

Keep watching it the way it is. You need a few days to adjust to what the colors are supposed to look like. Once this happens it will be much more gratifying.

Okay, you're right.... Low to Mid makes it a LOT more reddish... and Warm2 to Warm1 isn't enough to save it... I'm back to strictly D-Nice's settings for now.
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post #186 of 1088 Old 12-06-2011, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moshock View Post


Okay, you're right.... Low to Mid makes it a LOT more reddish... and Warm2 to Warm1 isn't enough to save it... I'm back to strictly D-Nice's settings for now.

I think with this new luminance firmware update you will be able to have it calibrated at mid panel brightness but I could be wrong.
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post #187 of 1088 Old 12-06-2011, 06:44 PM
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I'm with moshock, I had to go with mid panel seeing too. Just got my 55ST30 October build setup tonight for the first time. Took down my 55D6000 Samsung LED to hang the plasma. I like the Sammy aesthetics better but the Panny picture is better.have to do some day time football watching before I make a decision on which I will keep.
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post #188 of 1088 Old 12-06-2011, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbbransc View Post

I'm with moshock, I had to go with mid panel seeing too. Just got my 55ST30 October build setup tonight for the first time. Took down my 55D6000 Samsung LED to hang the plasma. I like the Sammy aesthetics better but the Panny picture is better.have to do some day time football watching before I make a decision on which I will keep.

Edit: See post below...

I'm not going to putz with my settings too much until after I get my A Board swapped on Friday...
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post #189 of 1088 Old 12-06-2011, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn74 View Post

I think with this new luminance firmware update you will be able to have it calibrated at mid panel brightness but I could be wrong.

I don't think it applies to ST models, does it?...

------------------------------------------

Hey guys, try this... Use D-Nice's settings exactly, and then change only the following two parameters:

Panel Brightness: Low --> Mid
Color Temp: Warm2 --> Cool1

I just watched Avatar 2d with these settings with my wife and we kept toggling through settings... and these look hands down amazing.

let me know what you guys think!
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post #190 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 08:27 AM
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A few things after starting the slides on my 50ST30...

I noticed a dead pixel in the upper left corner. It's only visible on certain color slides and if you're REALLY looking for it (like nose to the screen). Other than that, I have not noticed any of the issues that others have experienced (I have an October 2011 build), so I'm thinking about just living with it seeing as how I seriously doubt it will be noticeable on program content and how I don't want to go through the presumably lengthy exchange process.

The next thing has to do with the slideshow. Despite loading all of the slides onto my USB drive and running the slideshow (what I assume to be) correctly, it seems only certain slides are showing up (most notably black has been absent). Am I doing something wrong??? Also, given that certain slides have appeared to be absent and the slideshow has been running for over 24 hours now, is this going to cause any problems with the phosphor break-in???
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post #191 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 09:04 AM
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Mid panel changes everything? For the better ?
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post #192 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn74 View Post


I think with this new luminance firmware update you will be able to have it calibrated at mid panel brightness but I could be wrong.

I agree. What if I compare my ST30 to a Pro-calibrated VT, and when the ST30 is adjusted in mid panel to look exactly like the VT, which I can only do in mid-panel, does that make the ST30 "way off"? Don't think so. I don't think we will find out until someone has a pro calibration on their ST30 that has a newer build or "A" Board fix. But who is going to pay half the price of the TV to find out. We are at the mercy of Mr. Nice or other calibrator on here to bring us up to date.
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post #193 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 09:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moshock View Post


I don't think it applies to ST models, does it?...

------------------------------------------

Hey guys, try this... Use D-Nice's settings exactly, and then change only the following two parameters:

Panel Brightness: Low --> Mid
Color Temp: Warm2 --> Cool1

I just watched Avatar 2d with these settings with my wife and we kept toggling through settings... and these look hands down amazing.

let me know what you guys think!

Mid panel brightness on the STs is undesirable as the gamma goes into the toilet. Changing the color temp to Cool1 gives you an excessively blue picture. If you like the results, great. However, you could have just switched your display into Vivid mode, reduced the contrast, color and sharpness to achieve what you have done.

BTW, the Na'vi skin tone in Avatar should look like real skin with blue paint on it, not CGI cartoonish blue
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post #194 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ_Reda View Post

AThe next thing has to do with the slideshow. Despite loading all of the slides onto my USB drive and running the slideshow (what I assume to be) correctly, it seems only certain slides are showing up (most notably black has been absent). Am I doing something wrong??? Also, given that certain slides have appeared to be absent and the slideshow has been running for over 24 hours now, is this going to cause any problems with the phosphor break-in???

Interesting. I didn't even think of looking to see if all slides are showing when the slide show is active. I guess I should just sit in front of the tv and watch one cylce

And am also curious if not showing all the slides wil have a negative effect (going on almost 70hrs here on my 65vt30).
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post #195 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ_Reda View Post

A few things after starting the slides on my 50ST30...

I noticed a dead pixel in the upper left corner. It's only visible on certain color slides and if you're REALLY looking for it (like nose to the screen). Other than that, I have not noticed any of the issues that others have experienced (I have an October 2011 build), so I'm thinking about just living with it seeing as how I seriously doubt it will be noticeable on program content and how I don't want to go through the presumably lengthy exchange process.

The next thing has to do with the slideshow. Despite loading all of the slides onto my USB drive and running the slideshow (what I assume to be) correctly, it seems only certain slides are showing up (most notably black has been absent). Am I doing something wrong??? Also, given that certain slides have appeared to be absent and the slideshow has been running for over 24 hours now, is this going to cause any problems with the phosphor break-in???

there is not a black slide, it is dark gray, it just looks black on your puter.
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post #196 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 10:12 AM
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there is not a black slide, it is dark gray, it just looks black on your puter.

Ahh, that would explain some things.

So I would presume that there is also no full white slide either?
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post #197 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post


Mid panel brightness on the STs is undesirable as the gamma goes into the toilet. Changing the color temp to Cool1 gives you an excessively blue picture. If you like the results, great. However, you could have just switched your display into Vivid mode, reduced the contrast, color and sharpness to achieve what you have done.

BTW, the Na'vi skin tone in Avatar should look like real skin with blue paint on it, not CGI cartoonish blue

Hi "D" and thanks. I'm sure you must think we are going a little haywire on here. The main problem, as you can tell, is this panel is to dim for some people and they/we are trying anything to brighten it up a little. Some of us know that we are sacrificing something somewhere else when we do that. I for one don't like that feeling because I know your equipment and expertise equal the fact. I'm hoping you might find the time to take a look at a newer build and see if anything is going on after the so called "fix". BTW, Merry Christmas!
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post #198 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 10:56 AM
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Anyone mind commenting on the ST's inability to get a high enough contrast setting to satisfy the Disney WOW calibration test? Even maxed out isn't enough?
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post #199 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ_Reda View Post

Ahh, that would explain some things.

So I would presume that there is also no full white slide either?


there is a white slide, but on a full white screen on a plasma the ABL kicks in, automatic brightness limiter.
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post #200 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

Anyone mind commenting on the ST's inability to get a high enough contrast setting to satisfy the Disney WOW calibration test? Even maxed out isn't enough?

that is normal for this plasma.
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post #201 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark62 View Post

there is a white slide, but on a full white screen on a plasma the ABL kicks in, automatic brightness limiter.

Which makes it look kinda light gray?
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post #202 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
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Which makes it look kinda light gray?

bingo.
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post #203 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 11:55 AM
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bingo.

Thanks so much, I was beginning to worry!
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post #204 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Mid panel brightness on the STs is undesirable as the gamma goes into the toilet. Changing the color temp to Cool1 gives you an excessively blue picture. If you like the results, great. However, you could have just switched your display into Vivid mode, reduced the contrast, color and sharpness to achieve what you have done.

BTW, the Na'vi skin tone in Avatar should look like real skin with blue paint on it, not CGI cartoonish blue

LOL, I won't disagree with you at all. But it looks SO much brighter/appealing on Mid.

Have you ever calibrated an ST30 @ Mid panel brightness? Is that something you could do and share with us?

I, like many, cannot stand how dim your settings are on Low. I totally understand that they're realistic, accurate, etc., but there's no way I dropped $1300 on a brand new TV that looks duller than my two year old 50G15. And yeah, that was probably brighter than it should have been too, lol.

But seriously, I know soo many people on here would appreciate a set of calibration settings with Panel Brightness on Mid.

Even the thought of you doing it tickles me a little bit...
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post #205 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by moshock View Post

LOL, I won't disagree with you at all. But it looks SO much brighter/appealing on Mid.

Have you ever calibrated an ST30 @ Mid panel brightness? Is that something you could do and share with us?

I, like many, cannot stand how dim your settings are on Low. I totally understand that they're realistic, accurate, etc., but there's no way I dropped $1300 on a brand new TV that looks duller than my two year old 50G15. And yeah, that was probably brighter than it should have been too, lol.

But seriously, I know soo many people on here would appreciate a set of calibration settings with Panel Brightness on Mid.

Even the thought of you doing it tickles me a little bit...

you cant fix the gamma even with a pro. calibration and even wont get ideal color or grayscale, but i think the main thing is the gamma, on MID it is terrible not even in the ballpark...errr or even the same city, it is out there.
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post #206 of 1088 Old 12-07-2011, 01:53 PM
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I have an October 2011 built 60ST30.

I did the procedure and set Dnice's settings. They were pretty much there, but I agree, they needed tweaked, so I used that Disney WOW disk to tweak the brightness and contrast..., both of which needed raised from Dnice's settings.

I left all of his other settings the same to ensure I was getting the correct color reproduction..., which to my eye, and according to the disk, I am.

Now my picture is perfect..., for me.

So those of you with new ones that think the original settings are too low, you might want to try what I did. Just another suggestion.

Justin
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post #207 of 1088 Old 12-08-2011, 05:05 PM
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I finished up my 100 hours of slides with a couple hours of programming and Avatar in between (couldn't wait). I have had no issues with the set so far.

I did try Dnice's settings and while agree they are a little dull I can see how they are a true representation of the intended picture. I was watching a hockey game at MSG and I could see faint shadows on the ice from the players. I am no videophile but that indicated to me I was seeing a pretty true picture.

Dnice, I appreciate the setup instructions, the settings, and the education on plasmas.

Sweet TV.
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post #208 of 1088 Old 12-08-2011, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinHEMI05 View Post

I have an October 2011 built 60ST30.

I did the procedure and set Dnice's settings. They were pretty much there, but I agree, they needed tweaked, so I used that Disney WOW disk to tweak the brightness and contrast..., both of which needed raised from Dnice's settings.

I left all of his other settings the same to ensure I was getting the correct color reproduction..., which to my eye, and according to the disk, I am.

Now my picture is perfect..., for me.

So those of you with new ones that think the original settings are too low, you might want to try what I did. Just another suggestion.

Justin

Not trying to be critical of what you did at all here, but it should be clarified
that raising the brightness control does not increase the brightness of the set--it raises the black level. If it's too high it simply makes the blacks more of a gray color which will be a detriment overall to pq. Raising the contrast, however, does increase the brightness (light output) of the display.

If you do raise contrast, you probably then need to recheck the brightness setting with a test disc "pluge" pattern or alternatively you can use the dithering method--put a 4:3 image up and look closely at the black pillar-box bar. Lower the brightness control until the dithering (sparkling) in the black just goes away. Many times, if anything, after raising contrast you'll find you'll actually have to drop brightness down a few clicks.
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post #209 of 1088 Old 12-08-2011, 05:38 PM
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I finished my 100hrs today. I'm applying D-Nice's settings and came to this note:

Note: These offsets must be entered for both Color matrixes (HD/SD). You access the different matrixes by using a 1080i/p signal for the HD matrix and 480i/p signal for the SD matrix.

My TV is not connected to a cable source yet. I'm assuming the above requires it be connected. Can someone please confirm?

Can I turn my set off and come back to these settings?
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post #210 of 1088 Old 12-08-2011, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerome8283 View Post

I finished my 100hrs today. I'm applying D-Nice's settings and came to this note:

Note: These offsets must be entered for both Color matrixes (HD/SD). You access the different matrixes by using a 1080i/p signal for the HD matrix and 480i/p signal for the SD matrix.

My TV is not connected to a cable source yet. I'm assuming the above requires it be connected. Can someone please confirm?

Can I turn my set off and come back to these settings?

Basically you need a HD signal and a SD signal. How you get those signals is your choice. A BD player or upconverting DVD player will suffice
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