Samsung D series FBr fix discussion - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 1617 Old 02-19-2012, 09:06 AM
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Hey guys,

My December 2011 build PN64D8000 took the ITO version of the logic firmware. Does this mean that it's an ITO panel? I thought that all builds after July were ITOless. This TV is built in Mexico if that helps.

Thanks,
Yenal
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post #632 of 1617 Old 02-19-2012, 10:02 AM
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I unzipped the file, but I have not tried a larger USB drive or put it in FAT yet. Currently it's a 4GB Flash with NTFS file system...I've tried 2 that are similar.
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post #633 of 1617 Old 02-19-2012, 10:48 AM
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Watched "The Road" last night, pops made it almost un-watchable at points. At this point is there anything else that can be done if I have the FW and logic board update properly installed?
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post #634 of 1617 Old 02-19-2012, 12:38 PM
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July 2011 build 64d7000 here, already had 1015 so i had to do the manual update with the german emulator.

Recalibrated all my settings after the upgrade was complete and i checked the version and confirmed the update.

Test my known content i had on hand and the pops are gone! very nice work samsung.

almost any other tv i have had that had a small issue like this just went unfixed, needless to say i will be buying samsung from here on out.

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post #635 of 1617 Old 02-19-2012, 01:34 PM
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I am a newbie and have had a 51D7000 since September 2011 and love the set: no peeling, cracking, and buzzing noticable only within 5 feet in a dead quiet room. I have been following this thread this great interest and downloaded the test patterns and watched them many times. For the life of me I really can't notice the Fbr even in a completely dark room. To the naked eye, on that first test pattern there is maybe a little bit early on but I am really stumped. Either this may not be a big issue on the 51D7000 size or I am just too blind to see Fbr.

Is it possible I have a panel the doesn't have this issue?
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post #636 of 1617 Old 02-19-2012, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Sounds reasonable, it's subtle and harder to notice on the 51" sets because they have black levels about twice as high as the 59/64 sets.
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post #637 of 1617 Old 02-19-2012, 07:04 PM
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Ok. I have the latest fix applied (verified version numbers and saw the optimization screen) on my 64D8000. We are watching the Bluray of the newest Star Trek movie. In the bar scene where Pike is talking with Kirk, a bar employee walks in between the camera and them. At this point, the whole screen goes extra black. I'm watching with CS on with an Samsung 3D Bluray player. What is causing it? The same thing happens when the credits are fully off the screen at the beginning.

Except, of course, in paranoid delusions for those that believe.
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post #638 of 1617 Old 02-19-2012, 07:14 PM
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I've currently got a recently purchased Sharp Aquos 60LE832U LED that I'm unhappy with due to screen issues. It replaced an old HP plasma and I'm thinking of swapping it for a Samsung plasma, probably the 59D6500 or 7000.

The brightness popping and peeling issues have me a little concerned (though it looks lie through this thread that a fix is finally available). Would any of you recommend the Samsung plasma over any LED LCD's you've had experience with?

I'd appreciate any thoughts, thanks.
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post #639 of 1617 Old 02-19-2012, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrydancer View Post

I've currently got a recently purchased Sharp Aquos 60LE832U LED that I'm unhappy with due to screen issues. It replaced an old HP plasma and I'm thinking of swapping it for a Samsung plasma, probably the 59D6500 or 7000.

The brightness popping and peeling issues have me a little concerned (though it looks lie through this thread that a fix is finally available). Would any of you recommend the Samsung plasma over any LED LCD's you've had experience with?

I'd appreciate any thoughts, thanks.

Yes.
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post #640 of 1617 Old 02-19-2012, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrydancer View Post

I've currently got a recently purchased Sharp Aquos 60LE832U LED that I'm unhappy with due to screen issues. It replaced an old HP plasma and I'm thinking of swapping it for a Samsung plasma, probably the 59D6500 or 7000.

The brightness popping and peeling issues have me a little concerned (though it looks lie through this thread that a fix is finally available). Would any of you recommend the Samsung plasma over any LED LCD's you've had experience with?

I'd appreciate any thoughts, thanks.

I've returned 2 Panasonic Plasmas and about 4 LED LCDs before I settled with a PN64D8000. Get the D7000 and you'll be happy.
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post #641 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yenal View Post

I just got the delivery of a PN64D8000. It's a December 2011 build. The regular firmware update did not update the logic board. So I tried the alternate method. It totally worked. The logic board version is now 11-11-04. One important point is it accepted the ITO version instead of ITOLess. Isn't anything build after July supposed to be ITO less? By the way is one better than the other one?

Thanks,
Yenal

Yes.... the one you have is NOT better than the ITOless version.

I would rather have the D6500 ITOless version over your ITO D8000.

I would exchange it for the ITOless version if possible.
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post #642 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amazingly Smooth View Post

Ok. I have the latest fix applied (verified version numbers and saw the optimization screen) on my 64D8000. We are watching the Bluray of the newest Star Trek movie. In the bar scene where Pike is talking with Kirk, a bar employee walks in between the camera and them. At this point, the whole screen goes extra black. I'm watching with CS on with an Samsung 3D Bluray player. What is causing it? The same thing happens when the credits are fully off the screen at the beginning.

Sounds like your brightness is set too low. From what zoyd and larry have said, if brightness and contrast are set properly (black clipping followed by white clipping patterns), you should not get this "MLL off" condition. In case you missed it, a discussion started here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21635692
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post #643 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 10:17 AM
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I'm seriously considering the 51D550 but I was just wondering if the newest manufactured ones would be shipped already containing the FB firmware fix? I only ask because I'm afraid if I do the firmware update and don't get the optimization message I'll probably be sol (I don't have a computer at home so I can't do the logic board update, and even if I did have a computer I'm not tech savvy at all and that process just sounds way over my head).

For what it's worth it sounds like everyone with a 51-inch D550 were successful with the firmware optimization but still, there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason as to why some get the optimization and others don't. So I'm just hoping that if I got, say, a January 2012 manufactured 51D550 it would already have the FB fix.
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post #644 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbyTV View Post

Yes.... the one you have is NOT better than the ITOless version.

I would rather have the D6500 ITOless version over your ITO D8000.

I would exchange it for the ITOless version if possible.

What is better in ITOless version? How do you know which panel is ITOless without updating the logic board?
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post #645 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 12:14 PM
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So i got the german Version of this TV and i have no clue how to update this ?!

As you can see my FW seems to be not uptodate (see attachments). Maybe someone knows how to upgrade it.

bye.

Sorry for the pics :/
LL
LL
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post #646 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 12:23 PM
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And ordered a 64D7000 from Amazon. Here's to hoping I get a good set.

Had to go back to my old 50" until the new one comes and now it looks so tiny!
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post #647 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Stieg View Post

...So I'm just hoping that if I got, say, a January 2012 manufactured 51D550 it would already have the FB fix.

I'd say that's doubtful since the firmware has not been promoted to a wide release. Hopefully it's just a matter of time, but we have no indication that Samsung is still working on the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yenal View Post

What is better in ITOless version? How do you know which panel is ITOless without updating the logic board?

It should have less image retention (1/3 less), according to zoyd's first post. There is no way to tell which version you have without performing a manual logic upgrade.
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post #648 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

I'd say that's doubtful since the firmware has not been promoted to a wide release. Hopefully it's just a matter of time, but we have no indication that Samsung is still working on the problem.



It should have less image retention (1/3 less), according to zoyd's first post. There is no way to tell which version you have without performing a manual logic upgrade.

I don't want to return the panel just because it has less image retention. The screen uniformity is great with this panel. Are there any other difference such as black levels, colors etc?
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post #649 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

I'd say that's doubtful since the firmware has not been promoted to a wide release. Hopefully it's just a matter of time, but we have no indication that Samsung is still working on the problem.



It should have less image retention (1/3 less), according to zoyd's first post. There is no way to tell which version you have without performing a manual logic upgrade.

I agree. Mine is ITOLess and there is barely any image retention. The only image retention I had was when it was brand new < 100 hours.
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post #650 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbyTV View Post

Yes.... the one you have is NOT better than the ITOless version.

I would rather have the D6500 ITOless version over your ITO D8000.

I would exchange it for the ITOless version if possible.

No wonder I love my D6500...as it turns out it is an ITOLess panel and the PQ and IR is so good.
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post #651 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 01:40 PM
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I don't understand how you guys relate the image quality with the image retention.
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post #652 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post


Sounds like your brightness is set too low. From what zoyd and larry have said, if brightness and contrast are set properly (black clipping followed by white clipping patterns), you should not get this "MLL off" condition. In case you missed it, a discussion started here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21635692

Interestingly, I had my set calibrated. I think they set the brightness.

Except, of course, in paranoid delusions for those that believe.
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post #653 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

Sounds like your brightness is set too low. From what zoyd and larry have said, if brightness and contrast are set properly (black clipping followed by white clipping patterns), you should not get this "MLL off" condition. In case you missed it, a discussion started here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21635692

Just noticed this discussion. The "MLL OFF" state was absolutely present before this update. It was something i've noticed and posted about it long ago. With a brightness low enough, the panel turns off all pixels with full black input.
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post #654 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by obveron View Post


Just noticed this discussion. The "MLL OFF" state was absolutely present before this update. It was something i've noticed and posted about it long ago. With a brightness low enough, the panel turns off all pixels with full black screen.

Seems like the issue is one of continuity between the lowest black when on and the off state. Lame that it isn't better.

Except, of course, in paranoid delusions for those that believe.
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post #655 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

I'd say that's doubtful since the firmware has not been promoted to a wide release. Hopefully it's just a matter of time, but we have no indication that Samsung is still working on the problem.



It should have less image retention (1/3 less), according to zoyd's first post. There is no way to tell which version you have without performing a manual logic upgrade.

Still, I have a 64D8005 which is ITO (learnt that during the Logic Board upgrade) and yet even after several attempts to introduce IR (wife constantly pauses BR/DVDs and forgets about it for hours, children playing Wii) I have not seen a single piece of IR and I used no special break in either

So if ITOless means that it's even less IR than ITO then it must be really good :-D
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post #656 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 04:07 PM
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Mine is ito as well and i have never had any ir issues ever.

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post #657 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 05:38 PM
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I have ESPN logo burned into my tv i just look the other way

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post #658 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obveron View Post

Just noticed this discussion. The "MLL OFF" state was absolutely present before this update. It was something i've noticed and posted about it long ago. With a brightness low enough, the panel turns off all pixels with full black input.


Is your Samsung a European or North American model? What model is it? What Picture Mode do you use? What are your Cell, Contrast, Brightness, Gamma, and Color Tone settings?

Larry
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post #659 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post


Is your Samsung a European or North American model? What model is it? What Picture Mode do you use? What are your Cell, Contrast, Brightness, Gamma, and Color Tone settings?

Larry

Mine is the 64d8000. Brightness is set at 44. Cell light is 16.

Except, of course, in paranoid delusions for those that believe.
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post #660 of 1617 Old 02-20-2012, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amazingly Smooth View Post

Mine is the 64d8000. Brightness is set at 44. Cell light is 16.


Rule of thumb: For the D8000, the Brightness should be set at about 51 to 55. For the D7000, the Brightness should be set at about 59 to 63.

The Contrast and Gamma settings will have an effect on the correct Brightness setting.


Larry
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