Samsung Plasma Panel tweaks for better blacks. - Page 16 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #451 of 460 Old 01-05-2015, 12:29 PM
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Well I may have solved the uniformity issues on my 51F8500...


...I bought a used PDP-5020FD.


Measuring it now and it's not very accurate but the uniformity is freaking perfect. And of course my iD3 can't measure the black level. No IR...No dead pixels. No buzz. Had stand, speakers and remote. $750.
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post #452 of 460 Old 01-05-2015, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
Well I may have solved the uniformity issues on my 51F8500...


...I bought a used PDP-5020FD.


Measuring it now and it's not very accurate but the uniformity is freaking perfect. And of course my iD3 can't measure the black level. No IR...No dead pixels. No buzz. Had stand, speakers and remote. $750.
sounds like a winner to me!

when you say 'not very accurate' you mean you haven't calibrated it yet right?

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
Control: Harmony One
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post #453 of 460 Old 01-05-2015, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
sounds like a winner to me!

when you say 'not very accurate' you mean you haven't calibrated it yet right?
Well you can't really calibrated this set with user controls. Pioneer gimped it to sell Elites. CNet even called them out on it back in the day. Sounds like you can hack it to balance grayscale but no CMS.


And I may have spoken too soon. There IS a hint of redness to the blacks in letter box movies. Mostly in the upper right and lower center. But strangely enough I'm not that bothered by it. I'm going to do some homework and see if I can learn how to tweak it out. I've always wanted a Kuro to play with an now I have one. And for not much more than a 51F5300 would have cost. And I know the uniformity on that set was likely to be off. The Kuro looks as good as my F8500...if not better in some ways.


But anyways I digress. Sorry about derailing the thread....
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post #454 of 460 Old 01-05-2015, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
Well you can't really calibrated this set with user controls. Pioneer gimped it to sell Elites. CNet even called them out on it back in the day. Sounds like you can hack it to balance grayscale but no CMS.


And I may have spoken too soon. There IS a hint of redness to the blacks in letter box movies. Mostly in the upper right and lower center. But strangely enough I'm not that bothered by it. I'm going to do some homework and see if I can learn how to tweak it out. I've always wanted a Kuro to play with an now I have one. And for not much more than a 51F5300 would have cost. And I know the uniformity on that set was likely to be off. The Kuro looks as good as my F8500...if not better in some ways.


But anyways I digress. Sorry about derailing the thread....
i've heard there's a way to 'fix' the red tint. hopefully that's true.

i agree, i've wanted to SEE a kuro, i've never even seen one before. i had no idea i loved deep blacks so much because it wasn't until after the kuro's were killed off that i got rid of my crt. it was like this slap in the face when i realized 'off black' was no longer a thing... recent plasma has certainly gotten into the 'close enough' range, but i've wondered if a tweaked kuro would have been actually close enough that i don't feel it's a compromise to live with

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
Control: Harmony One
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post #455 of 460 Old 01-10-2015, 04:26 PM
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After reading through this thread, I'm hoping you all might be able to help me. I recently purchased the PN64F8500 and it was awesome! Bright picture, beautiful colors, and deep blacks. However, the screen had some defects from the packaging materials. I couldn't exchange it because the retailer had no stock left. Samsung agreed to replace the panel under warranty.

Here's my problem: the original panel reached near 50 fL in Movie mode at 20 Cell Light and 95 Contrast, and over 60 fL in Standard with 20 Cell 95 Contast on peak white 18% pattern. However, the replacement panel barely dings 38 fL in Movie at 20 Cell and 95 Contrast, and 46fL in Standard at 20 Cell and 95 Contrast.

When the tech installed the new panel, he tested two voltages and said they were within spec. I can't figure out why the new panel is so much dimmer with the same settings as before. I already checked all the bug and quick fixes like Eco mode, Motion Lighting, and Black Optimizer, but they all look good. I've tried a Menu Reset, Factory Reset, and a SVC Reset, but nothing has solved my problem.

I read in this thread that some folks saw a decrease in max output after adjusting voltages. I'm thinking that maybe there is a voltage setting that is capping my plasma's peak output. Do you all have any thoughts or suggestions here?

Other than maximum light output capabilities, the sets colors and gamma errors are excellent, below 1 DeltaE after calibration. I realize the current output is well within what we shoot for in dark room and normal viewing calibrations, but I like to crank up the light output when the sun is blazing and I'm watching from the kitchen or dining room. Is my panel defective, or does it fall within the norm for this plasma?
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post #456 of 460 Old 01-10-2015, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyBlues View Post
After reading through this thread, I'm hoping you all might be able to help me. I recently purchased the PN64F8500 and it was awesome! Bright picture, beautiful colors, and deep blacks. However, the screen had some defects from the packaging materials. I couldn't exchange it because the retailer had no stock left. Samsung agreed to replace the panel under warranty.

Here's my problem: the original panel reached near 50 fL in Movie mode at 20 Cell Light and 95 Contrast, and over 60 fL in Standard with 20 Cell 95 Contast on peak white 18% pattern. However, the replacement panel barely dings 38 fL in Movie at 20 Cell and 95 Contrast, and 46fL in Standard at 20 Cell and 95 Contrast.

When the tech installed the new panel, he tested two voltages and said they were within spec. I can't figure out why the new panel is so much dimmer with the same settings as before. I already checked all the bug and quick fixes like Eco mode, Motion Lighting, and Black Optimizer, but they all look good. I've tried a Menu Reset, Factory Reset, and a SVC Reset, but nothing has solved my problem.

I read in this thread that some folks saw a decrease in max output after adjusting voltages. I'm thinking that maybe there is a voltage setting that is capping my plasma's peak output. Do you all have any thoughts or suggestions here?

Other than maximum light output capabilities, the sets colors and gamma errors are excellent, below 1 DeltaE after calibration. I realize the current output is well within what we shoot for in dark room and normal viewing calibrations, but I like to crank up the light output when the sun is blazing and I'm watching from the kitchen or dining room. Is my panel defective, or does it fall within the norm for this plasma?
was there any change in MLL or ansi contrast?


I definitely saw a decrease in peak luminance( I was actually THRILLED by this), but also got a significant change in MLL and huge increase in ansi contrast.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
Control: Harmony One
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post #457 of 460 Old 03-07-2015, 02:30 PM
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just came across this thread
some initial questions:

will this help with DSE? Pink Tinting? Buzzing?
do I do this before or after calibrating?
Those with F8500, did you follow the instructions in the initial post or is there another post that's more geared towards our specific model?
Anyone had their's adjusted for years now and haven't run into any issues long term? Not sure if I wanna risk with overvolting but may wanna give undervolting a try. I have some experience overclocking/overvolting computer parts but nothing on a hardware level and they're not $4000 TV set that I plan on keeping for at least a decade.

Display: 64" Samsung 3D Smart PDP F8500
Audio: 54" Vizio 5.1 Sound Bar System S5451w-C2
NAS: Seagate Backup Plus 5TB via Asus RT-AC56U Router
HTPC: C2D E8400/Passively-Cooled GeForce GT 730/4GB DDR2 Win 8.1 3D Blu-ray Limelight Steam Machine

Last edited by twitchyzero; 03-07-2015 at 02:34 PM.
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post #458 of 460 Old 03-08-2015, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by twitchyzero View Post
just came across this thread
some initial questions:

will this help with DSE? Pink Tinting? Buzzing?
do I do this before or after calibrating?
Those with F8500, did you follow the instructions in the initial post or is there another post that's more geared towards our specific model?
Anyone had their's adjusted for years now and haven't run into any issues long term? Not sure if I wanna risk with overvolting but may wanna give undervolting a try. I have some experience overclocking/overvolting computer parts but nothing on a hardware level and they're not $4000 TV set that I plan on keeping for at least a decade.
should not make any difference with DSE. MAY(but likely not) help with pink tinting. may help with buzzing since generally speaking the more electricity flowing, the louder the buzz. that is assuming your tv is functioning 'properly' and doesn't have some other cause of the buzzing.


calibrate afterwards. it's not going to be a huge change, but why wouldn't you calibrate after?


I did not follow the initial instructions, but the ones posted a couple pages back.


I've had mine done for a few months, nothing has changed since the day I made the adjustments. I've always had a bit of the magenta 'speckles' under specific situations, but they don't show up with 99% of content, and i'll take the improved blacks AND reduced brightness(this tv is so hard to reduce brightness without messing up something else) any day.


I'm not sure if anybody turns up the voltage? that would increase the MLL, and be a terrible idea. I have my voltages all the way down, as far as they'll go. I was a little worried it might be too extreme at first, but it seems to be just fine.


that being said, if you just bought yours, the new ones don't seem to need, or react as well to voltage tweaks as the earlier ones. mine is from april 2013, and had much higher MLL than the 2014 models tend to have. after my tweaks, the MLL is no better than the 2014 ones either. mine now seems about on par though.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
Control: Harmony One
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post #459 of 460 Unread Today, 08:52 PM
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I'll add that I tried this on the extra 64F8500 I got from Amazon in hopes it would help alleviate the pink tinted areas and it did not at all, neither minimized or maxed out voltage wise. Did both pots too. There was a third Vscn pot but I didn't mess with that one. The only thing it changed (Vs) was the peak brightness. Black levels were unaffected and I tested this side by side with my other F8500 in a dark room on a "no input" screen. I think Vs could only go as low as 203 mV though and it was an Oct. 2014 build. The non tweaked set was a June 2014 build.
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post #460 of 460 Unread Today, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qsilvertwo View Post
I'll add that I tried this on the extra 64F8500 I got from Amazon in hopes it would help alleviate the pink tinted areas and it did not at all, neither minimized or maxed out voltage wise. Did both pots too. There was a third Vscn pot but I didn't mess with that one. The only thing it changed (Vs) was the peak brightness. Black levels were unaffected and I tested this side by side with my other F8500 in a dark room on a "no input" screen. I think Vs could only go as low as 203 mV though and it was an Oct. 2014 build. The non tweaked set was a June 2014 build.
Where do you see the pink areas on your set?

"Bring out yer dead!".."Wait I'm not dead yet!"..(Sound Austrian here) "WRONG !!" (You know what happens next..)
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