Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 336 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10051 of 10079 Old 12-21-2015, 06:09 AM
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These are DNice's settings BEFORE ANY PREP, straight outta the box.

North American TC-PxxST50 Non Panel Prep User Settings

*****Note: These settings are designed for North American TC-PxxST50 owners who choose not to do the Panel Prep precedure listed in post #1 . Use these setting immediately after taking the display out of the box.

*****IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED YOU FOLLOW THE PANEL PREP PROCEDURE AND USE THE TC-PxxST50 REFERENCE SETTINGS DUE TO THE GRAYSCALE SHIFTING RED WITHIN THE FIRST 100 HOURS OF USE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!****

Picture
Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 78
Brightness: 56
Color: 45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm2
Photo Enhancement: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off


Pro Settings
Colorspace: Normal

W/B High R: +1
W/B High G: 0
W/B High B: +2
W/B Low R: +12
W/B Low G: 0
W/B Low B: +4

Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.6 (50/55" models) 2.4 (60/65" models)
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

HDMI Settings
***Leave all settings in this menu at their default***


Advance Picture
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black Level: Light
3:2 PullDown: Auto

"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition mediocre minds..." A. Einstein
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post #10052 of 10079 Old 12-21-2015, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sven1olaf View Post
These are DNice's settings BEFORE ANY PREP, straight outta the box.

North American TC-PxxST50 Non Panel Prep User Settings

*****Note: These settings are designed for North American TC-PxxST50 owners who choose not to do the Panel Prep precedure listed in post #1 . Use these setting immediately after taking the display out of the box.

*****IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED YOU FOLLOW THE PANEL PREP PROCEDURE AND USE THE TC-PxxST50 REFERENCE SETTINGS DUE TO THE GRAYSCALE SHIFTING RED WITHIN THE FIRST 100 HOURS OF USE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!****

Picture
Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 78
Brightness: 56
Color: 45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm2
Photo Enhancement: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off


Pro Settings
Colorspace: Normal

W/B High R: +1
W/B High G: 0
W/B High B: +2
W/B Low R: +12
W/B Low G: 0
W/B Low B: +4

Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.6 (50/55" models) 2.4 (60/65" models)
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

HDMI Settings
***Leave all settings in this menu at their default***


Advance Picture
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black Level: Light
3:2 PullDown: Auto
I never did the prep/slides. Now that I've owned my set since Nov 2012, should I try the POST PREP settings or should I try the BEFORE ANY PREP settings?

I currently use the Cnet settings and I am enjoying those. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

TV: Panasonic TC-P55ST50
BluRay: Panasonic DMP-BDT 220
Audio: Sony HT-CT100 (Currently testing Vizio SB4051)
Gaming: PS4
PSN: Rican21
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post #10053 of 10079 Old 12-21-2015, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorRican View Post
I never did the prep/slides. Now that I've owned my set since Nov 2012, should I try the POST PREP settings or should I try the BEFORE ANY PREP settings?

I currently use the Cnet settings and I am enjoying those. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Can you post your cnet settings.

In my experience the DNice settings are far superior to any other settings. I would try the non prep settings and see what you think.

Then try the post prep settings and see if you like them more. But, in your position I would use the non prepped settings.

I ran the slides and have been running the post prep settings since I got mine back in '12. The only thing that I changed is the gamma. I dropped it to 2.2 from the assigned 2.4 in his settings, and this could just be because of ambient lighting.

Recently I got my hands on a Spears and Munsil calibration disc, http://www.amazon.com/Spears-Munsil-.../dp/B00CKWI13O, and noticed that there are some color space and clipping issues when you really dive into it.

I'm pretty sure I'm the only one who notices anything wrong because everyone is always saying how awesome it looks.

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post #10054 of 10079 Old 12-21-2015, 08:27 AM
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Cnet's settings

--Picture menu
Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +82
Brightness: +60
Color: +46
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color temp: Warm 2
Color mgmt: Off [grayed out]
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: Off

-- Pro settings submenu
Color space: Normal
W/B high R: +10
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +3
W/B low R: +4
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: -2
Black extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.6
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

-- Aspect adjustments submenu
Screen format: Full
HD size: Size 2
H size: [grayed out]
Zoom adjustments: [grayed out]

-- HDMI settings: [no change from default]

--Advanced picture submenu
3D Y/C filter: Off [grayed out]
Color matrix: HD [grayed out]
Block NR: Off [grayed out]
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion smoother: Off
Black level: Light
3:2 pulldown: On
24p Direct in: 60Hz


http://www.cnet.com/forums/discussio...ttings-559444/

Cnet settings above
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TV: Panasonic TC-P55ST50
BluRay: Panasonic DMP-BDT 220
Audio: Sony HT-CT100 (Currently testing Vizio SB4051)
Gaming: PS4
PSN: Rican21

Last edited by GatorRican; 12-21-2015 at 08:31 AM.
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post #10055 of 10079 Old 12-21-2015, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorRican View Post
Cnet's settings

--Picture menu
Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +82
Brightness: +60
Color: +46
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color temp: Warm 2
Color mgmt: Off [grayed out]
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: Off

-- Pro settings submenu
Color space: Normal
W/B high R: +10
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +3
W/B low R: +4
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: -2
Black extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.6
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

-- Aspect adjustments submenu
Screen format: Full
HD size: Size 2
H size: [grayed out]
Zoom adjustments: [grayed out]

-- HDMI settings: [no change from default]

--Advanced picture submenu
3D Y/C filter: Off [grayed out]
Color matrix: HD [grayed out]
Block NR: Off [grayed out]
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion smoother: Off
Black level: Light
3:2 pulldown: On
24p Direct in: 60Hz


http://www.cnet.com/forums/discussio...ttings-559444/

Cnet settings above
thank you.

Fyi, those settings are for the 55" panel. There are variations between the sizes that have been found.

I'm working on compiling as much cal data as I can find and then working on coming up with a set of ranges to utilize.

"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition mediocre minds..." A. Einstein
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post #10056 of 10079 Old 12-25-2015, 11:10 PM
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Guys, what about the 50 inch European version of the set? What is the latest and greatest on the settings? I have been using it with True Cinema and I do not think I see the settings mentioned above.
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post #10057 of 10079 Old 12-27-2015, 12:26 PM
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Xmas Lights Line of Death?

Got a vertical Green, red and white line running from the top of my 65" ST50 on the right side of my screen. Is this serviceable? It's out of warranty. Sorry if this has been covered.

Thnx for any suggestions.
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post #10058 of 10079 Old 01-06-2016, 07:18 AM
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A 'New' ST50 owner here. I picked up a used 60" ST50 on craigslist, about 1800hrs on the panel, but in flawless condition (he even had the box still). This is replacing a 55" ST30 I had.

Used D-nices settings as a base to start and then slightly tweaked. Im using Warm1 instead of 2, as others have said for whatever reason Warm2 is very very warm looking, far beyond what my ST30 was.

The ST50's blacks a noticeably darker. Overall it can output a good deal more light than the ST30, which is welcome. But has anyone noticed that going from Low to Mid Panel Brightness (or back) results in virtually no difference?

Im very pleased with the upgrade, considering it only cost me $150 between what I paid and what I sold my ST30 for.
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post #10059 of 10079 Old 01-06-2016, 07:20 AM
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A 'New' ST50 owner here. I picked up a used 60" ST50 on craigslist, about 1800hrs on the panel, but in flawless condition (he even had the box still). This is replacing a 55" ST30 I had.

Used D-nices settings as a base to start and then slightly tweaked. Im using Warm1 instead of 2, as others have said for whatever reason Warm2 is very very warm looking, far beyond what my ST30 was.

The ST50's blacks are noticeably darker. It also seems to handle color gradients much better than the ST30, with less banding occurring. Overall it can output a good deal more light than the ST30, which is welcome. But has anyone noticed that going from Low to Mid Panel Brightness (or back) results in virtually no difference?

Im very pleased with the upgrade, considering it only cost me $150 between what I paid and what I sold my ST30 for.
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post #10060 of 10079 Old 01-06-2016, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan Trent View Post
A 'New' ST50 owner here. I picked up a used 60" ST50 on craigslist, about 1800hrs on the panel, but in flawless condition (he even had the box still). This is replacing a 55" ST30 I had.

Used D-nices settings as a base to start and then slightly tweaked. Im using Warm1 instead of 2, as others have said for whatever reason Warm2 is very very warm looking, far beyond what my ST30 was.

The ST50's blacks a noticeably darker. Overall it can output a good deal more light than the ST30, which is welcome. But has anyone noticed that going from Low to Mid Panel Brightness (or back) results in virtually no difference?

Im very pleased with the upgrade, considering it only cost me $150 between what I paid and what I sold my ST30 for.
I have not found any need to adjust the panel brightness (low, mid, high) setting. There is plenty of brightness available without having to effect the baseline. Try lowering your gamma to 2.2, or lower if needed, instead.

I find that warm 2, with appropriate color adjustment and brightness/contrast settings, looks the best. Warm 1 seems overly flat and washed out.

Did you use a calibration disk, or just eyeball it?

"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition mediocre minds..." A. Einstein
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post #10061 of 10079 Old 01-06-2016, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sven1olaf View Post
I have not found any need to adjust the panel brightness (low, mid, high) setting. There is plenty of brightness available without having to effect the baseline. Try lowering your gamma to 2.2, or lower if needed, instead.

I find that warm 2, with appropriate color adjustment and brightness/contrast settings, looks the best. Warm 1 seems overly flat and washed out.

Did you use a calibration disk, or just eyeball it?
Agreed on the Panel Brightness, it was more just an observation than anything, I left at Mid per D-Nice's settings,.

I used a Calibration disc to further tweak D-Nice's settings. I could never get Warm 2 to come out as I would like and again it was dramatically different than the ST30 on the Warm 2 setting. Maybe some kind of panel variation.

Overall really happy with how it is, the deeper blacks and the increase in brightness really made a nice upgrade over an already good ST30 (I use this in light controlled environment so the ST30 never struggled due to natural light)
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post #10062 of 10079 Old 01-19-2016, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan Trent View Post
Agreed on the Panel Brightness, it was more just an observation than anything, I left at Mid per D-Nice's settings,.

I used a Calibration disc to further tweak D-Nice's settings. I could never get Warm 2 to come out as I would like and again it was dramatically different than the ST30 on the Warm 2 setting. Maybe some kind of panel variation.

Overall really happy with how it is, the deeper blacks and the increase in brightness really made a nice upgrade over an already good ST30 (I use this in light controlled environment so the ST30 never struggled due to natural light)

there are for sure differences in the panels between the ST30 and ST50. My only regrets about my ST50 is that I couldn't get a ZT50. But with 4k on the rise, I'm sure I'll be in the market for one of those within the next couple of years.

"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition mediocre minds..." A. Einstein
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post #10063 of 10079 Old 01-28-2016, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sven1olaf View Post
My only regrets about my ST50 is that I couldn't get a ZT50. But with 4k on the rise, I'm sure I'll be in the market for one of those within the next couple of years.

I remember when the reviews of the ST50 came out it was agreed that the set bested the previous model ZT. That was good enough for me.


I was an early adopter when HD panels first came out and over-paid on what turned out to be a crummy display. Now I just wait for the market to mature a bit and then get the middle of the road set.

I reject your reality and substitute my own.

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post #10064 of 10079 Old 02-02-2016, 06:32 AM
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Dish HD and 60st50

Does anyone else who is still active on this thread have an ST50 and Dish Network? I am not at all satisfied with the picture quality and it has me questioning the TV but it has to be the source because video games and blurays look phenomenal. I am coming over from DirecTV to save a few bucks but it might have been a mistake.

PSN: amays32
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post #10065 of 10079 Old 04-12-2016, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amays32 View Post
Does anyone else who is still active on this thread have an ST50 and Dish Network? I am not at all satisfied with the picture quality and it has me questioning the TV but it has to be the source because video games and blurays look phenomenal. I am coming over from DirecTV to save a few bucks but it might have been a mistake.
60st50 here with Dish. I've always been happy with it, but considering a Vizio p65 soon. I don't own a Bluray. Regular HD content looks great.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Last edited by tcat; 04-17-2016 at 03:26 PM.
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post #10066 of 10079 Old 05-02-2016, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powers16 View Post
I was reading the Official Panasonic VT50 forums about input lag on that panel as well. Someone in that thread talked about how he was able to reduce the input lag in custom mode by disabling Viera Link and bluetooth settings. I disabled Viera Link and tested this myself and it DOES seem to reduce input lag enough in custom mode to make games playable in that mode. This may be strictly placebo effect happening here but it really did feel like it made a difference. Could anyone else test this as well? And does anyone know how to disable bluetooth on the ST50?
Did anyone ever get to the bottom of this?

And Powers16, do you play multiplayer PC FPS games (e.g. Counterstrike) on your ST50? If so, how's it perform?
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post #10067 of 10079 Old 05-02-2016, 03:29 AM
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Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk]

Quote:
Originally Posted by plasmasomanychoices View Post
Did anyone ever get to the bottom of this?

And Powers16, do you play multiplayer PC FPS games (e.g. Counterstrike) on your ST50? If so, how's it perform?
Did you try Game mode? It's stated in the manual that because image is not processed in game mode there's zero latency.

I don't believe that Viera link and/or Bluetooth settings affect latency.

Last edited by izlu; 05-02-2016 at 03:46 AM.
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post #10068 of 10079 Old 05-05-2016, 09:00 PM
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Did you try Game mode? It's stated in the manual that because image is not processed in game mode there's zero latency.

I don't believe that Viera link and/or Bluetooth settings affect latency.
I don't actually have an ST50, was thinking about getting one.

Anyone know how it compares with the G10?

As far as I can tell here's what I've gleaned:

ST50
-better picture quality (more accurate colors / wider gamut)
-better blacks
-perhaps slightly worse motion resolution (900 vs G10's full 1080 lines)
-softer picture
-input lag is supposed to be fast, but then again, it has been measured as slow as 48ms (Bodnar rating) by a UK reviewer. However hdtvtest.co.uk (16ms via stopwatch) and displaylag.com both indicate similar measurements (40ms via bodnar)

G10
-worse blacks, although perhaps improved by the $50 widget
-less accurate colors
-better motion res
-much sharper picture
-negligible input lag, if you believe hdtvtest.co.uk -- they measured it at an astounding 10-15ms ("up to 21 ms faster than a reference display that measures 30ms vs a CRT")

Input lag is unfortunately a dealbreaker---even if I had enough money, it's not super practical to switch TVs every time I wanna game instead of watching media
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post #10069 of 10079 Old 05-05-2016, 09:03 PM
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edit: and now I see the edit option, and also managed to double post my addendum. lol.

Last edited by plasmasomanychoices; 05-05-2016 at 09:54 PM.
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post #10070 of 10079 Old 05-05-2016, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plasmasomanychoices View Post
I don't actually have an ST50, was thinking about getting one.

Anyone know how it compares with the G10?

As far as I can tell here's what I've gleaned:

ST50
-better picture quality (more accurate colors / wider gamut)
-better blacks
-perhaps slightly worse motion resolution (900 vs G10's full 1080 lines)
-softer picture
-input lag is supposed to be fast, but then again, it has been measured as slow as 48ms (Bodnar rating) by a UK reviewer. However hdtvtest.co.uk (16ms via stopwatch) and displaylag.com both indicate similar measurements (40ms via bodnar)

G10
-worse blacks, although perhaps improved by the $50 widget
-less accurate colors
-better motion res
-much sharper picture
-negligible input lag, if you believe hdtvtest.co.uk -- they measured it at an astounding 10-15ms ("up to 21 ms faster than a reference display that measures 30ms vs a CRT")

Input lag is unfortunately a dealbreaker---even if I had enough money, it's not super practical to switch TVs every time I wanna game instead of watching media
Sorry for the double post, I can't ifgure out how to edit my old one.

One addition: the G10 almost feels like it was made to be a computer monitor, the picture is super crisp.

Also, supposedly the ST50 is much more vulnerable to burn in. As someone who has played 4-5 hours of a single game on my G10, I've only ONCE seen image retention, and it went away after 45 minutes of a different game
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post #10071 of 10079 Old 05-22-2016, 07:37 PM
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TC-P60ST50 - Physically cracked screen & 7 blink. Any chance of fix?

First off, I apologize if there's a more appropriate place to post this. I've done some reading and it seems like this may be the right place. Please feel free to redirect me if needed.

My 2 year old son threw a metal beater for a triangle (musical instrument) and it struck the screen tip first and as soon as it happened, the tv shut itself off and is now doing the 7 blink of death. What's odd to me is that, while there's a small dent in the glass and some short cracks emanating from it, I'm surprised it'd completely kill the TV. I assumed that maybe the colors could be off there or that some pixels could be ruined, but it visually isn't catastrophic looking damage.

I've done some reading, and it seems like SC board replacement is a common suggestion. But, I'm skeptical that replacing that board would necessarily solve my issue. Is the screen being (slightly) cracked a death sentence (would it just short out any replacement board or not power up?)? If a replacement board would at least render the display functional (but with a crack), I'd be willing to go that route for use in a spare room.

Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm just technical enough to be dangerous, so if there's a way I can test the existing boards to figure out if some/all are bad I'm willing to give it a whirl. Similarly, if I'm best off just getting a new TV and selling off some of the internal components I'd do that too.

Thanks!
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post #10072 of 10079 Old 07-22-2016, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killboy314 View Post
First off, I apologize if there's a more appropriate place to post this. I've done some reading and it seems like this may be the right place. Please feel free to redirect me if needed.

My 2 year old son threw a metal beater for a triangle (musical instrument) and it struck the screen tip first and as soon as it happened, the tv shut itself off and is now doing the 7 blink of death. What's odd to me is that, while there's a small dent in the glass and some short cracks emanating from it, I'm surprised it'd completely kill the TV. I assumed that maybe the colors could be off there or that some pixels could be ruined, but it visually isn't catastrophic looking damage.

I've done some reading, and it seems like SC board replacement is a common suggestion. But, I'm skeptical that replacing that board would necessarily solve my issue. Is the screen being (slightly) cracked a death sentence (would it just short out any replacement board or not power up?)? If a replacement board would at least render the display functional (but with a crack), I'd be willing to go that route for use in a spare room.

Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm just technical enough to be dangerous, so if there's a way I can test the existing boards to figure out if some/all are bad I'm willing to give it a whirl. Similarly, if I'm best off just getting a new TV and selling off some of the internal components I'd do that too.

Thanks!
I need ur parts or I'll sell u my panel.... The HDMI board needs replaced, I have been using component input; unstable red
image just started, so the main board needs replaced. Your parts in my TV.

Thanks,
Norm
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post #10073 of 10079 Old 10-12-2016, 01:08 PM
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norman.bradford@ - Sorry it took so long to respond, I kind of gave up before you posted but do still have the TV.







If you're still interested in parts, could you please PM me with contact info? I tried to send you a message but it said my post count needed to be 15 in order to do that.
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post #10074 of 10079 Old 01-10-2017, 02:49 PM
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Connecting a PC -- Has anyone done it?

Has anyone figured a workaround for connecting a PC to TC-PXXST50? Manual says no way.

A couple of years ago, I asked if anyone had figured it out yet for my TC-P65ST50.

Someone suggested getting a video card for the PC with a HDMI output. Recently, on the TC-PXXST60 owner's thread, there was a suggestion that I use a Thunderbolt VK904 DV Adapter.

Looking for a plug & play solution. My PC is a new Dell XPS13 (no HDMI output) and I don't want to crack the shell.
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post #10075 of 10079 Old 02-15-2017, 01:06 PM
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Well, thanks to my son (and his PS4 controller) I now have cracked screen on my 65" ST50.

Any advice on who would buy this thing for parts.

I miss this TV already.

Bought a 65" Samsung KS8000 to replace, and I'm not happy with it at all. But that's another thread.
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post #10076 of 10079 Old 02-19-2017, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CRTforever View Post
Has anyone figured a workaround for connecting a PC to TC-PXXST50? Manual says no way.

A couple of years ago, I asked if anyone had figured it out yet for my TC-P65ST50.

Someone suggested getting a video card for the PC with a HDMI output. Recently, on the TC-PXXST60 owner's thread, there was a suggestion that I use a Thunderbolt VK904 DV Adapter.

Looking for a plug & play solution. My PC is a new Dell XPS13 (no HDMI output) and I don't want to crack the shell.

just get a USB-C to HDMI adapter, if im not mistaken that pc has it.
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post #10077 of 10079 Old 02-25-2017, 10:21 AM
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Unhappy MP4 videos (stored on Synology NAS) not playing any longer through ethernet

[UPDATE 26/02/2017]
Apparently it's a known issue with Media Server on the Synology.
I either have to rollback the firmware or wait for a fix.
Case closed regarding the ST50.
-------------------------------------------------
Hi everyone,

The media player of my Panasonic TX-P42ST50E suddenly stopped playing all my MP4 videos for no apparent reason a couple days ago.
I have :
+ a ST50 linked to my network by an ethernet cable
+ a Synology NAS where all my movies are stored

Last week I played a MP4 movie on my ST50 by browsing my Diskstation, something I've been doing for years.
Yesterday that same movie wouldn't start ?!
Same things with apparently all other files I successfully played multiple times in the past.
I can navigate my Diskstation on my Panny with no problem but when I choose a MP4 file, I either have the neverending spinning icon and/or a black screen and nothing happens (the timeline remains at 00:00:00)
The same MP4 file works fine if I copy it to a USB key and plug it to my Panny though !
Same failure with AVI videos
Only a couple of TS files downloaded from another source play fine.
According to VLC, all those files have the same video encoding : Codec : H264 - MPEG-4 AVC (part 10) (avc1)

What I've tried so far (to no avail) :
+ installed the latest DSM 6.1 on my NAS
+ reboot of my NAS
+ reindexing of all media on NAS (although everything showed swiftly and comprehensively while browsing the library on TV)
+ reset to factory settings of TV

I am baffled because I don't understand what I've changed that could have caused these videos to stop playing.
I'm not sure if the culprit is the TV or the NAS
(the video file itself played a week ago so I guess I can rule it out)
Couldn't find anything similar on the internet...
Anyone think of something I could test/fix ?
Thank you in advance,

Jerome

Last edited by JeromeOudoul; 02-26-2017 at 02:17 PM. Reason: Solved
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post #10078 of 10079 Old 05-08-2017, 01:02 PM
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TV Losing Automatic Internet Connection

Over the years, my TC-P65ST50 has been dropping its automatic internet connection more & more often. Usually, a couple of times hitting 'retry' did the trick, but that is hardly working anymore.

Tried manually inputting IP address, subnet mask, default gateway & DNS but that works OK only for a couple of days. Thinking of doing a hard reset to default, out of the box settings.

Using 100mbps Google Fiber showing 4 out of 5 bars signal strength and have been rebooting router from time to time.

I do have a streaming backup in my Panny DMP-BDT210 which has a stable connection, so it's not the end of the streaming world. But it's sad to see my 'smart' TV singing "Daisy, Daisy" and losing its smartness.

Anyone else having this problem?
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post #10079 of 10079 Old 09-08-2017, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by brunswick View Post
I have a 65ST50 that is perfect except for a lightning strike that made the HDMI inputs quit working. Fix is a new board for about 150.00 I have heard. Excellent PQ and in excellent condition other than HDMI. PM if you would like more info.
Thanks to this message/topic I saw confirmed that a lightning strike might have caused the malfunctioning of the HDMI ports of my UT50. I know neigbours were hit, but I did not relate the defective HDMI ports immediately to this strike. But shortly hereafter the HD picture showed 2 vertical black lines and the menu items vertical stripes allover. The TV shut off often without any reason and things became worse. Today I replaced the main 'A' board and all is functioning well again.

Last edited by jps2; 09-09-2017 at 05:47 AM.
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