Official Samsung PNXXE7000 - PNXXE8000 owners thread - Page 55 - AVS Forum
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post #1621 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by airgon74 View Post

Does anyone know if samsung fixed the shutting off randomly problem the E8000 has?
I returned my E8000 for the VT50 and now considering returning the Vt50.

Mind if I ask why you're contemplating returning the vt50??
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post #1622 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 09:39 AM
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In case anyone was still curious as to what the "buzz" sounds like on an E8000, please see the below link. It's an audio recording I made by sitting at my seating area and holding my iphone mic right next to my ear, so that I could track the sound. Turn up your sound to hear best.

http://www.sendspace.com/file/pkz9iy
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post #1623 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 10:02 AM
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JTM79:

I have only had the TV for 2 days (60E7000) and spent a lot of time in the Menu adjusting settings and what not and calibrating with the WOW and Spears & Munsil disks. I did not see a single moment of IR the entire time.
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post #1624 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dstew419 View Post

Mind if I ask why you're contemplating returning the vt50??


I had purchase the E8000 first. I felt the picture was great, colors and black levels were also great. However, I had a problem with set turning off and on randomly.

I returned the set for the VT50. The VT50 is a great set as well. black levels are darker and the design is better. However, the processor is inferior to the E8000.

General content on HD feed is better on the E8000. The pixels are cleaner and sharper on the E8000.
The VT50 will have more accurate colors, darker blacks and contrast, but in my opinion not significant enough.
If you watch alot of blu ray movies then get the VT50.

If you watch HD TV cable, satelite feeds and some blu ray movies, then The E8000 is better.

The VT50 suffers from alot of dithering. E8000 has cleaner pixels.

My only problem is reliability with samsungs.
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post #1625 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 10:54 AM
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Thanks for the info... I watch a mix of stuff directv,BD,gaming,streaming Netflix.
So I guess I made the right choice for my purpose ...

Watched TRON legacy on directv and it looked very sharp, enough so that I bought the blue ray.
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post #1626 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ruiz00tx View Post

No but some have reported if you set brightness at a certain level it will prevent it from happening.

I think you may be getting things confused. Setting the brightness higher prevents the screen from turning off during black scenes. It has nothing to do with the tv actually turning itself off completely, if that's what's happening. I haven't had that issue yet and I've got more than 200 hours on my E8000.
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post #1627 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by airgon74 View Post

E8000 has cleaner pixels.
I'm not doubting that you're seeing a difference, but it's not possible for one pixel to be "cleaner" than another pixel.

One display's pixels can be smaller or bigger than another display's pixels when the screen size is different. A smaller screen size will produce a sharper image because it's pixels are smaller.

The over all image can be cleaner in that you may see more dithering on one model than on another model.
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post #1628 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airgon74 View Post

I had purchase the E8000 first. I felt the picture was great, colors and black levels were also great. However, I had a problem with set turning off and on randomly.
I returned the set for the VT50. The VT50 is a great set as well. black levels are darker and the design is better. However, the processor is inferior to the E8000.
General content on HD feed is better on the E8000. The pixels are cleaner and sharper on the E8000.
The VT50 will have more accurate colors, darker blacks and contrast, but in my opinion not significant enough.
If you watch alot of blu ray movies then get the VT50.
If you watch HD TV cable, satelite feeds and some blu ray movies, then The E8000 is better.
The VT50 suffers from alot of dithering. E8000 has cleaner pixels.
My only problem is reliability with samsungs.

I agree with this for the most part. Games, Blu Rays and clean HD signals look and play better on the ST50 but standard compressed HD signals fare better on the E7000 for the most part. (still pretty lacking in black level performance)
Man if you could combine the strengths of both you would have the perfect TV in my view.
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post #1629 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 12:58 PM
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A tech called me back yesterday as a follow-up regarding the screen turning off it's illumination during black scenes. He wasn't from Samsung, he was from a local repair shop that was contacted by Samsung to come out and look at the set. We discussed the issue yesterday, and he admitted that a plasma should not be acting like that, and said it sounds to him like a poorly-thought-out gimmick by Samsung. He said he would call Samsung and discuss the issue with them and see if he can press the issue to work on a firmware fix.

He then called back about a half-hour later and said he just got off the phone with Samsung, and they told him there was a new firmware just issued , and I should check to see if that solves the issue. I checked the firmware notes and it didn't mention it but tried it anyways as he said sometimes a firmware will contain fixes not listed. I told him I'd call him back and report how it goes. After installing the firmware, I tried some test clips and the firmware had no effect on the screen turning off. I called the tech back with that info, and he then asked me if I could get a video of it turning off during a scene. So I captured 2 videos, of the same clip, 1 with the brightness at 47 showing the screen turning off, and 1 with the brightness at 48 showing the screen staying on. The videos aren't great quality but it does show the difference between the two settings. It's obvious the screen is turning off in 1 video and not in the other one. So I emailed him the video clips and I'm awaiting back to hear from him.

Hopefully this moves things forward to getting a solution for this. I'd like to be able to drop my brightness down a bit more but can't without the screen turning off.
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post #1630 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 02:20 PM
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Guys do you recommend this TV for gaming ? PC/Ps3 ? there is any high input lag? you can choose Game mode?

any common issue?
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post #1631 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

A tech called me back yesterday as a follow-up regarding the screen turning off it's illumination during black scenes. He wasn't from Samsung, he was from a local repair shop that was contacted by Samsung to come out and look at the set. We discussed the issue yesterday, and he admitted that a plasma should not be acting like that, and said it sounds to him like a poorly-thought-out gimmick by Samsung. He said he would call Samsung and discuss the issue with them and see if he can press the issue to work on a firmware fix.
He then called back about a half-hour later and said he just got off the phone with Samsung, and they told him there was a new firmware just issued , and I should check to see if that solves the issue. I checked the firmware notes and it didn't mention it but tried it anyways as he said sometimes a firmware will contain fixes not listed. I told him I'd call him back and report how it goes. After installing the firmware, I tried some test clips and the firmware had no effect on the screen turning off. I called the tech back with that info, and he then asked me if I could get a video of it turning off during a scene. So I captured 2 videos, of the same clip, 1 with the brightness at 47 showing the screen turning off, and 1 with the brightness at 48 showing the screen staying on. The videos aren't great quality but it does show the difference between the two settings. It's obvious the screen is turning off in 1 video and not in the other one. So I emailed him the video clips and I'm awaiting back to hear from him.
Hopefully this moves things forward to getting a solution for this. I'd like to be able to drop my brightness down a bit more but can't without the screen turning off.

Thanks for your efforts on this.
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post #1632 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 02:38 PM
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I just made an unhappy discovery regarding the screen turning off. It seems setting the brightness at 48 does not always work. I was just testing out a 3D video and in 3D mode the screen was still shutting off during a black fade-out even with the brightness at 48. I tried moving the brightness up to 50, then 55, then 60, and it still didn't prevent the screen from blacking out. Then I thought maybe it was only in 3D mode, so I switched back to 2D mode and let the SBS 3D file play, and even in 2D mode, the screen turned off at the fade, with the brightness set at 48, then 50, 55, and even 60. So it seems that setting the brightness up only works part of the time, it doesn't completely avoid the issue.

I also talked again with Samsung, and they explained to me that every time they get a problem like this reported, it goes into a database and is seen as a pie-chart, and how they choose to address issues is based on how the pie-chart looks. Basically, the biggest "slices" get the priority treatment for firmware fixes. He had no idea how many calls it takes before they notice, but it's unfortunate that a call like this can basically get ignored until dozens or hundreds of other calls come in for the same issue. Based on that, he told me he can't guarantee that a fix will happen or not. He still suggested sending out a tech to repair or swap out the set, but I told him I firmly believe that all of these behave similarly, and if they "repair" or swap it out I would not be able to return it for a refund at the store, which I am now considering.

That's very disappointing to discover. At least before I thought I had a work-around, but now that doesn't seem to be the case. This is seriously making me at least reconsider my options. I'm almost at the point where I want to give up on plasma. I know I'll hate LCD for various reasons, but what's left? The ST50/GT50 3D is awful, and I can't just ignore this issue with the screen turning off - it's far too annoying and happens too frequently to ignore. I don't even want to think about an LCD, but I can't get over how this tv turns the screen off like it does, it frustrates me every time it happens, and I only have like 10 days left to return this set, and I need to decide if I can live with this, as I'm going to assume Samsung won't be addressing this issue.
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post #1633 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Hopefully this moves things forward to getting a solution for this. I'd like to be able to drop my brightness down a bit more but can't without the screen turning off.

I'm sorry to say that I fear you are a bit naive. Your efforts are to be commended, but attempting to get any large company to address your concerns will not be productive. You're whizzin in the wind.

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post #1634 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I'm not doubting that you're seeing a difference, but it's not possible for one pixel to be "cleaner" than another pixel.
One display's pixels can be smaller or bigger than another display's pixels when the screen size is different. A smaller screen size will produce a sharper image because it's pixels are smaller.
The over all image can be cleaner in that you may see more dithering on one model than on another model.

This same opinion has echoed by David Mackensie of HDTV test Uk also one of the calibrators at VE shootout.
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post #1635 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ferl View Post

I'm sorry to say that I fear you are a bit naive. Your efforts are to be commended, but attempting to get any large company to address your concerns will not be productive. If you're facing the wind, the wet stuff hitting your face should smell like urine:D

I agree with you. As I mentioned in my next post after that one, I'm going to have to decide on what to do about this based on the assumption that Samsung will do nothing about this, based on what I observed from them last year with the D7000. It's unfortunate but I'm seriously having my doubts about this tv and plasmas in general, which I'm sure will get me blasted here for saying. I love the look of plasma, and I wish issues like this didn't have to become the roadblocks that they do. But that's what you get from companies these days. I have to assume that this tv will not get a firmware fix for the screen turning off. That's unfortunate, because if it's going to act like an LCD, I might as well get an LCD, and not have to worry about image retention any more, which is always on my mind with this set.
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post #1636 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I just made an unhappy discovery regarding the screen turning off. It seems setting the brightness at 48 does not always work. I was just testing out a 3D video and in 3D mode the screen was still shutting off during a black fade-out even with the brightness at 48. I tried moving the brightness up to 50, then 55, then 60, and it still didn't prevent the screen from blacking out. Then I thought maybe it was only in 3D mode, so I switched back to 2D mode and let the SBS 3D file play, and even in 2D mode, the screen turned off at the fade, with the brightness set at 48, then 50, 55, and even 60. So it seems that setting the brightness up only works part of the time, it doesn't completely avoid the issue.
I also talked again with Samsung, and they explained to me that every time they get a problem like this reported, it goes into a database and is seen as a pie-chart, and how they choose to address issues is based on how the pie-chart looks. Basically, the biggest "slices" get the priority treatment for firmware fixes. He had no idea how many calls it takes before they notice, but it's unfortunate that a call like this can basically get ignored until dozens or hundreds of other calls come in for the same issue. Based on that, he told me he can't guarantee that a fix will happen or not. He still suggested sending out a tech to repair or swap out the set, but I told him I firmly believe that all of these behave similarly, and if they "repair" or swap it out I would not be able to return it for a refund at the store, which I am now considering.
That's very disappointing to discover. At least before I thought I had a work-around, but now that doesn't seem to be the case. This is seriously making me at least reconsider my options. I'm almost at the point where I want to give up on plasma. I know I'll hate LCD for various reasons, but what's left? The ST50/GT50 3D is awful, and I can't just ignore this issue with the screen turning off - it's far too annoying and happens too frequently to ignore. I don't even want to think about an LCD, but I can't get over how this tv turns the screen off like it does, it frustrates me every time it happens, and I only have like 10 days left to return this set, and I need to decide if I can live with this, as I'm going to assume Samsung won't be addressing this issue.

I would go to the store and check to see if it happens with the display model as well. Then I would know if I wanted to return or exchange.

I also believe that something was wrong with the way you were viewing 3D on the Panny, or something because no one has expressed as bad an opinion as you did. Check the 3D on the Pannys at the store too. Since I've not owned an ST50, I don't know if there's a difference between it and the GT50. Everyone says that there shouldn't be but I don't always take a persons word for it when it comes to my money.

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post #1637 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by airgon74 View Post

This same opinion has echoed by David Mackensie of HDTV test Uk also one of the calibrators at VE shootout.
smile.gif
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post #1638 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

So I captured 2 videos, of the same clip, 1 with the brightness at 47 showing the screen turning off, and 1 with the brightness at 48 showing the screen staying on. The videos aren't great quality but it does show the difference between the two settings. It's obvious the screen is turning off in 1 video and not in the other one.

Any chance you could post these videos? I'm curious if hat you're seeing is different from what I'm seeing.
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post #1639 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I think you may be getting things confused. Setting the brightness higher prevents the screen from turning off during black scenes. It has nothing to do with the tv actually turning itself off completely, if that's what's happening. I haven't had that issue yet and I've got more than 200 hours on my E8000.

please help me understand what your talking about I have a PN60E8000 AND I WATCH THIS WITH CELL LITE between 17 and 20 depending on the time of day and brightness 50 to 55 my screen or tv has never shot off ?????????????

so your saying if i lower these it will happen? i'll try it and let you know

My main setup
PN60E8000 / Directv genie / Panasonic 3D blu-ray Onkyo TX-NR 1030 7.2.4 /Onkyo M-5010 Amplifier for top rear. Bic Acoustech speakers, Bic F12 subs
MY 10' X 15' DEN
PN51F5500 / Directv Genie / Panasonic 3D blu-ray / Onkyo TX-NR 737 5.2.2 Atmos top front Ceiling Speakers
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post #1640 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 04:59 PM
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Sorry if you have already posted this eagle_2, but is there any chance you could post the exact time when you notice the ABL kicking in and dimming the scene when you watch Tree of Life? I would like to test this out on my ST50 and also in store on an E8000 but I'm not sure I want to play that scene from Battlestar Galactica in public... smile.gif Just out of curiosity I did play it on the ST50 using my laptop and noted that if I dragged a browser window with a black background on top of the video I can see the whole thing getting brighter. So I'm guessing that scene is triggering ABL on my ST50, however I don't notice any fluctuations. I noticed LastMinuteGoal posted the exact point at which it occurs earlier so I will have another look tonight and let you know if I can spot it.
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post #1641 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by deria View Post


Without seeing what you're seeing, its hard to say what is normal. It definitely should not be headache-inducing, though -- the primary difference when watching 24p is that pans (side to side motion) can appear jerky. Another difference is that, because the display is only being refreshed 24 times a second, it can seem flickery. 24p is what you see in the theatre, but for various reasons displaying 24p content at home is not always as impressive as you might think it would be.


CinemaSmooth turns the TV's refresh rate from 24p to 96p (meaning the entire scene is refreshed 96 times a second instead of 24). It doesn't create any new frames, though (which is a good thing) -- it just refreshes the screen 3 times as often, which eliminates the flicker.


Some will tell you that there is only one right or wrong answer, but I tend to think that the right answer is whatever you like -- if you prefer watching your movies at 60p then more power to you (though really, with CinemaSmooth you should be seeing a very good picture).

Not quite on the 24 fps in the theater. The film is recorded and played back at 24 fps, but the projector is using a two or three blade shutter to effectively show 48 or 72 fps (i.e. it shows the same frame 2 or 3 times before moving on to the next frame). 24 fps was used because it's cheaper to film that way, not necessarily that it's good inherently, either, it's just what effectively works without increasing the film rate (and the expenses using actual film). The Hobbit was shot in 48 fps from what I've read and some people are having issues with that because it doesn't look like what they're used to...

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post #1642 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by deria View Post

Any chance you could post these videos? I'm curious if hat you're seeing is different from what I'm seeing.

Here's the link to the 2 videos I made. It's a zip file with 2 .avi files inside labeled Brightness_47 and Brightness_48. The videos are grainy and the screen turning off may not appear very dramatic in the video, but it is certainly noticeable, and it's obvious it isn't happening in the second video. In real life it's much more obvious and distracting.

http://depositfiles.com/files/xssmhz59q

The download is 18.3Mb
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post #1643 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 08:38 PM
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Sorry if you have already posted this eagle_2, but is there any chance you could post the exact time when you notice the ABL kicking in and dimming the scene when you watch Tree of Life? I would like to test this out on my ST50 and also in store on an E8000 but I'm not sure I want to play that scene from Battlestar Galactica in public... smile.gif Just out of curiosity I did play it on the ST50 using my laptop and noted that if I dragged a browser window with a black background on top of the video I can see the whole thing getting brighter. So I'm guessing that scene is triggering ABL on my ST50, however I don't notice any fluctuations. I noticed LastMinuteGoal posted the exact point at which it occurs earlier so I will have another look tonight and let you know if I can spot it.

Yeah I imagine that Galactica scene isn't the best scene to demo in a store. wink.gif Well I can't say the exact time of "Tree of Life" because it was on cable but it was right at the end of the film, during the bright shots when the woman is holding her hands to the sky with the sunlight behind her. It's also right at the end when the screen blacks out, shortly after that, when the film fades to black and then the colorful blotch of light appears and then disappears just before the credits roll. Both before and after the blotch of light appears the screen blacks out.
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post #1644 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

I would go to the store and check to see if it happens with the display model as well. Then I would know if I wanted to return or exchange.
I also believe that something was wrong with the way you were viewing 3D on the Panny, or something because no one has expressed as bad an opinion as you did. Check the 3D on the Pannys at the store too. Since I've not owned an ST50, I don't know if there's a difference between it and the GT50. Everyone says that there shouldn't be but I don't always take a persons word for it when it comes to my money.

The Best Buy stores near me unfortunately aren't the most helpful when it comes to demoing material. Last time I was in there, half the 3D tv demos weren't even working (3D wasn't working - glasses, wiring, whatever) and 1 of the tvs we wanted to look at wasn't even plugged in - they said it was locked whatever that means. They seem to just pump their demo material through to their tvs though (they told me they use coaxial rather than HDMI) so I'm not sure they would let me demo my own material. I'm not sure how others in here manage because I always wonder that when I'm in Best Buy - they give me the remote "if they can find it" but that's about it. I never even see a blu-ray player nearby playing any discs so I would have to bring in something on a USB stick. Once I tried that and they told me they couldn't get it out of demo mode to allow me access to the USB player.

I'm guessing maybe many of the Panny owners haven't seen 3D on Samsung plasmas/LCD to compare it to, or just don't care much about 3D, so they figure however it looks is good enough for them. CNET was quite displeased with the 3D performance of the ST50. The ST50 made it a major issue for me to switch to 3D mode, as I described in detail in that thread at the time. It hated all my side-by-side files, and took anywhere from 30 seconds to 2-5 minutes in some cases to allow me to switch to 3D mode. It was intolerable. And the crosstalk was quite significant. The E8000 by comparison switches instantly to 3D mode in a second at the press of a button, and has much less crosstalk so far from what I've seen of it. Shame about this screen blacking out issue. Even more of a shame that Samsung doesn't seem to care. How are we supposed to trust that the evolution kits will deliver improvements when they won't even address a problem like this in a firmware update and something like this issue can go completely ignored?
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post #1645 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 10:51 PM
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My PN51E7000 arrived a couple of days ago, but I finally had time to set it up today.

First impressions:

1) Buzzing is so quiet that I have to put my ear up next to the screen with MUTE on just to hear it clearly. (It's very faint with sound on, but can't be heard from any reasonable sitting distance.)

2) Wow the picture is sharp! eek.gif I have a Pioneer PRO-111FD as well, but this screen looks a lot sharper with a lot less dither noise.

3) Black levels don't seem to be anywhere near my KURO. I could tell that the picture settings were off in stock movie mode, but even with using tweaks from CNET, the blacks look elevated and milky. frown.gif

4) Picture settings don't copy between inputs and/or apps! *grumble* mad.gif Copying settings is such a hassle. Is there a shortcut I've missed? (I'm using the newest 1018 firmware by the way.)

5) The SmartHub error is annoying. Despite all the bells and whistles, there needs to be better QC. It's working now after I "reset" it by going to the SmartHub, pressing Tools --> Settings --> Reset (code: 0000).

6) I love how quickly the television turns on! It's roughly 3 seconds or so versus about 10 for the KURO.

7) SD content looks a lot better on this than the KURO. I've never been a fan of Pioneer's video processing and scaling. Even my old Samsung HL-S6187W had better SD video processing. DirecTV SD content is now far more amenable and tolerable.

8) My Wi-Fi network settings were detected quickly and accurately, and my network connection test passed normally. However, when I tried to run the firmware update service, it constantly timed out. Fortunately I have my router near this display and hooked everything up with an ethernet cable. Internet packets now pass correctly to the display in all functions/modes/apps.

9) Film Mode is greyed out on almost every channel/input. When it is accesible, I'm only offered Auto1/Auto2 or Off. What's the correct 'Auto" mode to properly deinterlace film content? I haven't tested 24p Blu-ray input yet, which I presume will offer me the CinemaSmooth setting.

Overall, (and after considerable research) I'm satisfied with my purchase. cool.gif I'm not plagued by some of the concerns that others have expressed. If I can find good settings for tuning the 0-10 IRE range, I'll be a pig in ****. biggrin.gif
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post #1646 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 11:00 PM
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I also talked again with Samsung, and they explained to me that every time they get a problem like this reported, it goes into a database and is seen as a pie-chart, and how they choose to address issues is based on how the pie-chart looks. Basically, the biggest "slices" get the priority treatment for firmware fixes. He had no idea how many calls it takes before they notice, but it's unfortunate that a call like this can basically get ignored until dozens or hundreds of other calls come in for the same issue. Based on that, he told me he can't guarantee that a fix will happen or not. He still suggested sending out a tech to repair or swap out the set, but I told him I firmly believe that all of these behave similarly, and if they "repair" or swap it out I would not be able to return it for a refund at the store, which I am now considering.

Sounds like it's an issue that people need to speak up about in order to get Samsung to do something.

Or we need a popular, well respected HT enthusiast website to take up the issue, to really publicize the issue and challenge Samsung to fix it. Hmm, I wonder where we can find such a website ...
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post #1647 of 4339 Old 06-06-2012, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

The Best Buy stores near me unfortunately aren't the most helpful when it comes to demoing material. Last time I was in there, half the 3D tv demos weren't even working (3D wasn't working - glasses, wiring, whatever) and 1 of the tvs we wanted to look at wasn't even plugged in - they said it was locked whatever that means. They seem to just pump their demo material through to their tvs though (they told me they use coaxial rather than HDMI) so I'm not sure they would let me demo my own material. I'm not sure how others in here manage because I always wonder that when I'm in Best Buy - they give me the remote "if they can find it" but that's about it. I never even see a blu-ray player nearby playing any discs so I would have to bring in something on a USB stick. Once I tried that and they told me they couldn't get it out of demo mode to allow me access to the USB player.
I'm guessing maybe many of the Panny owners haven't seen 3D on Samsung plasmas/LCD to compare it to, or just don't care much about 3D, so they figure however it looks is good enough for them. CNET was quite displeased with the 3D performance of the ST50. The ST50 made it a major issue for me to switch to 3D mode, as I described in detail in that thread at the time. It hated all my side-by-side files, and took anywhere from 30 seconds to 2-5 minutes in some cases to allow me to switch to 3D mode. It was intolerable. And the crosstalk was quite significant. The E8000 by comparison switches instantly to 3D mode in a second at the press of a button, and has much less crosstalk so far from what I've seen of it. Shame about this screen blacking out issue. Even more of a shame that Samsung doesn't seem to care. How are we supposed to trust that the evolution kits will deliver improvements when they won't even address a problem like this in a firmware update and something like this issue can go completely ignored?

I don't get the same 3D that you did. I did try them all out before I bought even though 3D wasn't a deciding factor for me. If it were I would have bought the LG passive. The Samsung had the most crosstalk when the screen was bright whites. So I don't know what you experienced or why.

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post #1648 of 4339 Old 06-07-2012, 12:13 AM
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Sounds like it's an issue that people need to speak up about in order to get Samsung to do something.
Or we need a popular, well respected HT enthusiast website to take up the issue, to really publicize the issue and challenge Samsung to fix it. Hmm, I wonder where we can find such a website ...

What I don't understand is how Samsung will completely ignore an issue like this and not even consider looking at it after somebody calls like I did? How do they end up issuing firmware fixes if they just ignore calls like this? I was hoping I was getting somewhere with this when the tech agreed to call Samsung about the issue. I haven't heard back from him yet so I don't know if he's talked to them again since I emailed him the videos. This issue seriously diminishes my enjoyment of the tv. If not for this issue I'd be pretty darned happy (the blacks could certainly be better and I dislike the brightness pops but overall the image is fantastic).

I don't understand how everybody can't see this happening - it happens as soon as you turn on the tv! The moment you turn it on, it displays the tv logo (by default), and then it goes to a black screen for just a second, at which point the screen turns off then back on quickly when the picture comes on. It happens every time I turn on the tv - that's all you have to do to see it. That flash at the beginning when the screen blanks out is the screen turning off during the black it's displaying. That's exactly what it does every time the screen blanks out.
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post #1649 of 4339 Old 06-07-2012, 12:20 AM
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I don't get the same 3D that you did. I did try them all out before I bought even though 3D wasn't a deciding factor for me. If it were I would have bought the LG passive. The Samsung had the most crosstalk when the screen was bright whites. So I don't know what you experienced or why.

I'm not sure why I had such an unpleasant experience with the 3D from that set. Still, even if the crosstalk didn't appear so bad to me, the fact that it wouldn't engage 3D mode without a hassle made it a very undesirable choice being a 3D enthusiast).

I agree that the LG passive 3D looks quite amazing and virtually crosstalk-free as long as you don't move too far away from the ideal viewing area (which is pretty big). The passive 3D is so comfortable to view, and so bright, but did seem to have a drop in resolution.
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post #1650 of 4339 Old 06-07-2012, 04:28 AM
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I don't understand how everybody can't see this happening - it happens as soon as you turn on the tv! The moment you turn it on, it displays the tv logo (by default), and then it goes to a black screen for just a second, at which point the screen turns off then back on quickly when the picture comes on. It happens every time I turn on the tv - that's all you have to do to see it. That flash at the beginning when the screen blanks out is the screen turning off during the black it's displaying. That's exactly what it does every time the screen blanks out.

Actually, this behaviour (the turning the screen off when there's no source input, or OSD) is the normal behaviour, and has been present since the C series plasmas at the very least . But I definitely don't want it to be doing that during normal viewing.

It's very possible that this "feature" might actually be intentional for some reason (energy rating compliance?), so if Samsung don't get hundreds of complaints or if the problem doesn't get any media exposure, they're not going to do anything about it.
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