Official Samsung PNXXE7000 - PNXXE8000 owners thread - Page 61 - AVS Forum
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post #1801 of 4310 Old 06-11-2012, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Thanks very much for explaining that. Now I actually understand a bit better why that's happening. That makes sense. So the ABL has already decreased the brightness a bit and when something moves just right the ABL actually backs off instantly, causing the screen to actually brighten. It's too bad that the change can't be more subtle, instead of so instant and obvious. It's that sudden "pop" in brightness that's so distracting to me. But then again I totally agree with you on the flicker of the 96Hz mode in the Panasonics, and I see no flicker in the E8000's 96Hz mode, so like you said, it's a trade off. I just bought a 2-year Best Buy plan on the E8000 with an option for 2 more years when it expires, and I got a $100 price match, so that helps. I guess like it or not I'm an E8000 owner. I think overall I'm going to like it, it's just that aggressive ABL that's so annoying at times. Most everything looks awesome but a bright beach scene is asking for trouble with this set.
Do you think if they actually make use of the upgrade slot next year, maybe that issue could be corrected if next year's sets correct the issue? I wonder if something like that would be affected and maybe fixed through the upgrades they're promising to make their sets perform like newer models. It makes sense that if their 2013 models don't "pop" like that, then maybe a 2013 upgrade pack would make this set function like the 2013 model.

No problem smile.gif I'm guessing this probably isn't something Samsung could improve without some pretty significant changes but I could be wrong. I'm not really sure it is any worse on the E8000 than any other set as it effects my ST50 as well. I notice it most on advertisements and things of that nature. Could be that now that you've noticed it once you're focusing on it more because you know it's there.
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post #1802 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 03:59 AM
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This may be an off question for this thread but I have to start somewhere and hope to be guided. Last week I got a floor model PN64D8000 from bb. The price was the really big driver, marked down and further negotiated to $1,500. It came with the original warranty etc and I also got the extended 4 yr plan so I am not worried. Here is the thing though. There is a big difference between the picture quality experienced in the store, even between other models and this specific one. I noticed that especially the LED's have a picture that seems to pop, almost 3D like but on 2D content. As my wife described it, "it makes you think the person you are watching is in the room with you". Is that a characteristic of the LED type screen? OR is this floor model used up? OR is it a matter of calibration?
The reason I decided to buy this screen is because as of its release it was the best / second best ( Panasonic 65VT30) in color accuracy and black level reproduction but at the end of the day I agree with my wife in the sense that watching a movie or a show is part of the overall experience and not about how accurate the color is (which could be calibrated anyway).
Fortunately (or unfortunately) I have the option to return it within 30 days. What I am thinking is that I could maybe sacrifice 4 inches and go with a 60 inch LED. Even though I have not looked at any reviews or comparisons, there seem to be a ton of specials or bundles or sales that would allow me to get a 60 inch great screen and feature set including up to 4 pairs of 3D glasses (this one did not come with any) for roughly the same $ give or take $150.
What are your thoughts or experiences? Could I achieve the picture quality characteristics by calibrating this screen? or is the LED so much different?
Any feedback or direction is appreciated.
Thx
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post #1803 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by CKPlasma View Post

This may be an off question for this thread but I have to start somewhere and hope to be guided. Last week I got a floor model PN64D8000 from bb. The price was the really big driver, marked down and further negotiated to $1,500. It came with the original warranty etc and I also got the extended 4 yr plan so I am not worried. Here is the thing though. There is a big difference between the picture quality experienced in the store, even between other models and this specific one. I noticed that especially the LED's have a picture that seems to pop, almost 3D like but on 2D content. As my wife described it, "it makes you think the person you are watching is in the room with you". Is that a characteristic of the LED type screen? OR is this floor model used up? OR is it a matter of calibration?
The reason I decided to buy this screen is because as of its release it was the best / second best ( Panasonic 65VT30) in color accuracy and black level reproduction but at the end of the day I agree with my wife in the sense that watching a movie or a show is part of the overall experience and not about how accurate the color is (which could be calibrated anyway).
Fortunately (or unfortunately) I have the option to return it within 30 days. What I am thinking is that I could maybe sacrifice 4 inches and go with a 60 inch LED. Even though I have not looked at any reviews or comparisons, there seem to be a ton of specials or bundles or sales that would allow me to get a 60 inch great screen and feature set including up to 4 pairs of 3D glasses (this one did not come with any) for roughly the same $ give or take $150.
What are your thoughts or experiences? Could I achieve the picture quality characteristics by calibrating this screen? or is the LED so much different?
Any feedback or direction is appreciated.
Thx

I am sure someone much smarter is going to help you with this than I, however, I would first suggest you go into your settings menu and find out how many hours your tv was run for in the store (most probably in demo mode/kill this plasma tv mode)
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post #1804 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 07:47 AM
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If anyone has bought a PN60E7000 from amazon in the last two weeks call amazon and ask for the price match guarantee.
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post #1805 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 08:29 AM
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Yup got my $200 credit on this model yesterday smile.gif
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post #1806 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ruiz00tx View Post

If anyone has bought a PN60E7000 from amazon in the last two weeks call amazon and ask for the price match guarantee.


yes i saw that the price has dropped. when i bought mine it was $500.00 more then what it is now, Amazon gave me a $300.00 credit back when it dropped the first time, now it's dropped another $200.00 witch i'll miss out on because I Have had my TV going on two months now i got mine on April 18th . but i'm still very pleased with my 60E8000

don't you just love the fact that you buy something and then two months later it's $500.00 cheaper eek.gif

I still Love it and think it's worth every Penny

My main setup
PN60E8000 Plus evolution 2013Kit + Directv genie + Panasonic 3D blu-ray player + Onkyo TX-NR 818 9.2 using Onkyo M-5010 2-Channel Amplifier for wides.
MY DEN
PN51F5500 + Directv Genie + Panasonic 3D blu-ray player + Onkyo TX-NR 616 7.2
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post #1807 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 10:23 AM
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I'm in the same boat... managed to squeeze in the $300 credit thanks to having 1 day left in the 45 day BB cycle... Even so I can live with the $200 price difference... Wonder why the price is decreasing so fast ... you would think they'd hold steady till labor day?
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post #1808 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastMinuteGoal View Post

Forgot to add that you can actually use the RGB Blue only mode under Advanced picture options to do this test, which should be much more accurate.

Hey thanks, I was looking for that and I couldn't seem to find it in the menus so I figured Samsung just didn't have that mode. I'll definitely go back and check that out.

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Originally Posted by LastMinuteGoal View Post

I think it may also be because I have cell light and contrast and at lower settings (18 and 86), so the effect may be less apparent

About the ABL, I thought based on what I've heard others mention, the ABL is least aggressive when the cell light is set to 20, so I would think that on 20 I should actually get less of those bright ABL pops, no? Maybe the ABL is only part of it and other things come into play?
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post #1809 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dstew419 View Post

I'm in the same boat... managed to squeeze in the $300 credit thanks to having 1 day left in the 45 day BB cycle... Even so I can live with the $200 price difference... Wonder why the price is decreasing so fast ... you would think they'd hold steady till labor day?

if it keeps dropping it will be cheaper then the PN58D8000 i'm thinking it may drop some more, I maybe wrong they always seem to have a big promo mid model year, but then they will go up again. who can figure these things out maybe a price war with Panasonic ???

I'm just guessing here I still really love this set.

I'll love it more when they get HBO GO on it. LOL

My main setup
PN60E8000 Plus evolution 2013Kit + Directv genie + Panasonic 3D blu-ray player + Onkyo TX-NR 818 9.2 using Onkyo M-5010 2-Channel Amplifier for wides.
MY DEN
PN51F5500 + Directv Genie + Panasonic 3D blu-ray player + Onkyo TX-NR 616 7.2
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post #1810 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 12:21 PM
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Well a tech just came out and looked at my 60E7000 for the DSE that I reported. He said it definitely wasn't supposed to look like that after I showed him an all white jpeg from the break in slides.

He is going to report back and they will probably be exchanging me sets again. Man the pain in the butt starts all over again this will be the 6th time I have had to take it down off the wall mad.gif.

I wish I could just get a hold of one that didn't have DSE!
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post #1811 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jruc03 View Post

Well a tech just came out and looked at my 60E7000 for the DSE that I reported. He said it definitely wasn't supposed to look like that after I showed him an all white jpeg from the break in slides.
He is going to report back and they will probably be exchanging me sets again. Man the pain in the butt starts all over again this will be the 6th time I have had to take it down off the wall mad.gif.
I wish I could just get a hold of one that didn't have DSE!

I have the same problem with DSE (and all the other issues people are mentioning). DSE is the worst part for me.

I see the same issues people are having with the ABL but since I have calibrated some,it happens less, probably because cell light or brightness are somewhat higher.

I also experinced the screen off issue on fades to black, but this has lessened by calibrating the brightness.

Also, why is the sound through these tv speakers so horrible? Or maybe it's just mine or where it's placed. I get a lot of combfiltering or phase cancelation.

I have arranged to take mine back to the store and they said they will open a couple up and we can test for DSE at the store. If they all have them, I'll leave the original and get my money back since I am within their 30 day policy.
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post #1812 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by fstrat76 View Post

I see the same issues people are having with the ABL but since I have calibrated some,it happens less, probably because cell light or brightness are somewhat higher.

My cell light is on 20 and my brightness is currently on 48. May I ask what your brightness is on? I ask because I get lots of ABL/brightness "pops" and I'm wondering what your brightness is currently on. I was watching Ricochet earlier and there was a gigantic explosion at the end that came right up towards the screen and it was quite bright - it took up the whole screen and I noticed the screen jumped higher in brightness near the end of the explosion.

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Originally Posted by fstrat76 View Post

Also, why is the sound through these tv speakers so horrible? Or maybe it's just mine or where it's placed. I get a lot of combfiltering or phase cancelation.

I notice regular audio popping or crackling on various cable channels through the built-in speakers. Not always - some channels are loud and clear and no crackling, other times with certain shows or films I definitely hear the speakers crackle. I think they're really just crappy speakers. Shame because my old crappy CRT had obviously crappy speakers yet I never heard a crackle and they got very very loud too. These miniature-sized speakers we get now are a major step backwards in terms of tv speakers. Not all of us have the luxury of using a surround receiver late at night when neighbors are trying to sleep.

Does anybody know if I can plug a sound bar directly into the tv to replace the internal speakers, and still be able to use my receiver when I want for surround?
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post #1813 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jruc03 View Post

Well a tech just came out and looked at my 60E7000 for the DSE that I reported. He said it definitely wasn't supposed to look like that after I showed him an all white jpeg from the break in slides.
He is going to report back and they will probably be exchanging me sets again. Man the pain in the butt starts all over again this will be the 6th time I have had to take it down off the wall mad.gif.
I wish I could just get a hold of one that didn't have DSE!

DSE? Really? On my 51E8000 there was literally no DSE at all. I know they say it has the "clear image panel", so maybe that had something to do with it, but it was the cleanest picture I've ever seen on a plasma....ever. I'm getting rid of my ST50 because the DSE is visible during regular content and on ANY horizontal panning shot. I was thinking of getting a 60E8000, but your report has me concerned.
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post #1814 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 05:52 PM
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By 'dirty screen effect' do you guys mean screen uniformity problems -- the type that shows up on a pure gray or white screen as amorphous areas of light green and pink?

Larry
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post #1815 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dmercer3 View Post

I am sure someone much smarter is going to help you with this than I, however, I would first suggest you go into your settings menu and find out how many hours your tv was run for in the store (most probably in demo mode/kill this plasma tv mode)

Thanks, I did not even know you could do that. How do I check for the total hours?
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post #1816 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CKPlasma View Post

Thanks, I did not even know you could do that. How do I check for the total hours?

WARNING CAUTION BLAH BLAH ... THIS COULD RESET YOUR CALIBRATION/SETTINGS!!! (not my fault)

It is different for some tv's but this should work:

Here are the steps:

1. Switch on the power to the TV and let it be in the standby mode. Do not turn on the TV.

2. Pick up the remote control, and quickly press the following buttons in sequence:

Info -> Menu -> Mute -> Power.

3. You must be fast enough to press the magic sequence to enter the technical calibration menu screen, or else you will just end up switching on to the normal TV channel.

4. Once you reach the screen of technical calibration main menu, you will be able to see the running hours shown at the top left corner of the screen.

5. Press the Power button to exit the technical calibration screen and put the TV back to standby mode. Do not make any change to the technical setting of your TV unless you know exactly what you are doing.

Let us know if it works please, I am not near my tv so I unfortunately cannot test this.


SEEMS THAT IF THAT DOES NOT WORK FOR YOU THEN YOU SHOULD TRY THIS METHOD:



While the TV is in standby mode: Press the {MUTE}, {1}, {8}, {2} & {POWER} buttons.

The TV will turn on with the Service Menu displayed.

Use the {UP} or {DOWN} buttons to select "SVC" / "PANEL DISPLAY TIME" will be one of the items listed.

To exit, press the {POWER} button.


NOTE: After exiting, all picture settings will be reset to
default values. So make sure to write down custom
adjustments before accessing the Service Menu.
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post #1817 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dmercer3 View Post

It is different for some tv's but this should work:
Here are the steps:
1. Switch on the power to the TV and let it be in the standby mode. Do not turn on the TV.
2. Pick up the remote control, and quickly press the following buttons in sequence:
Info -> Menu -> Mute -> Power.
3. You must be fast enough to press the magic sequence to enter the technical calibration menu screen, or else you will just end up switching on to the normal TV channel.
4. Once you reach the screen of technical calibration main menu, you will be able to see the running hours shown at the top left corner of the screen.
5. Press the Power button to exit the technical calibration screen and put the TV back to standby mode. Do not make any change to the technical setting of your TV unless you know exactly what you are doing.
Let us know if it works please, I am not near my tv so I unfortunately cannot test this.
SEEMS THAT IF THAT DOES NOT WORK FOR YOU THEN YOU SHOULD TRY THIS METHOD:
While the TV is in standby mode: Press the {MUTE}, {1}, {8}, {2} & {POWER} buttons.
The TV will turn on with the Service Menu displayed.
Use the {UP} or {DOWN} buttons to select "SVC" / "PANEL DISPLAY TIME" will be one of the items listed.
To exit, press the {POWER} button.
NOTE: After exiting, all picture settings will be reset to
default values. So make sure to write down custom
adjustments before accessing the Service Menu.

I was able to get in with the second option. However there is no panel display time under the svc option. I actually went through all the options and I did not see "panel display time" anywhere
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post #1818 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CKPlasma View Post

I was able to get in with the second option. However there is no panel display time under the svc option. I actually went through all the options and I did not see "panel display time" anywhere

Wish I could be more help but I am not around my tv. Make sure it was not displayed anywhere on the screen while you were in there???
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post #1819 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

About the ABL, I thought based on what I've heard others mention, the ABL is least aggressive when the cell light is set to 20, so I would think that on 20 I should actually get less of those bright ABL pops, no? Maybe the ABL is only part of it and other things come into play?

No idea actually, but common sense tells me that the lower the overall screen brightness (not to be confused with the brightness setting), the less need for ABL to limit the brightness?? I think I may be simplifying things a bit too much here.

Here's what I posted earlier about my experiments with adjusting contrast/cell light and on that BSG scene:
Quote:
My Cell Light/Contrast setting is down from the default/Cnet settings to suit my moderately lit viewing environment (18, 86 in Movie mode - I've only adjusted basic controls, with things like white balance and colors at their default settings), so maybe that has something to do with it. I did try cranking up the CL/Contrast, and it didn't really make it better or worse. Turning the settings down (15/75) seems to make it better (probably because the difference between "bright" and "limited bright" was smaller) but it didn't go away completely. You can probably make the problem (and ABL) go away by using really low settings, but that wouldn't be practical.
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post #1820 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastMinuteGoal View Post

No idea actually, but common sense tells me that the lower the overall screen brightness (not to be confused with the brightness setting), the less need for ABL to limit the brightness?? I think I may be simplifying things a bit too much here.

Well it does sound like that makes sense but then why do I keep hearing people say ABL is least aggressive when the backlight is on 20? I see that brought up again and again. I remember even hearing that last year on the D7000 thread.
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post #1821 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Well it does sound like that makes sense but then why do I keep hearing people say ABL is least aggressive when the backlight is on 20? I see that brought up again and again. I remember even hearing that last year on the D7000 thread.

Why do you need your cell lite at max? On my D8000 I rarely use 18-20 at all.

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post #1822 of 4310 Old 06-12-2012, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post

Why do you need your cell lite at max? On my D8000 I rarely use 18-20 at all.

Because as I have said - I have read multiple times in this thread and the D7000 thread that ABL is least aggressive when set to 20. Obviously then I would want it on 20 so ABL is less aggressive. Plus at 20 and using the AVS disc everything seems to look right. CNET uses 20 in their settings as well.
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post #1823 of 4310 Old 06-13-2012, 12:12 AM
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There is no right or wrong setting for contrast/cell light, it largely depends on personal preference and also your viewing environment. Without the proper calibration equipment to measure light output and such, all you can do is a simple visual check, to see if the whites in high contrast scenes strain your eyes or not. Cnet's setting probably tries to maximize things like contrast ratio for review purposes, but I like a more subdued image personally myself.

My advice is to not worry about the ABL problem, and just set the display to be bright enough, but not too bright, for your typical viewing environment. 99% of the time, you're not going to be seeing the ABL fluctuations, and you should be using settings that works best with this 99%.
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post #1824 of 4310 Old 06-13-2012, 02:05 AM
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I just discovered something about the screen tonight on my E8000 and now I'm really worried. I was watching a movie on cable tonight and there was a long scene set outside and the sky was pretty much all white in the background, and I just happened to notice for the first time a faint vertical line cutting down the length of the screen, top to bottom. It was rather yellowish and didn't move as the scene progressed. A bit later I put on the color slides for the first time (I wasn't planning on even looking at the slides and doing this to myself but now I had to check out this line) and sure enough I can see the very-slightly-yellowish-tinted line on all the slides, all shades of white and grey (colors too but harder to see). It's about 10 inches roughly from the right side of the screen, and runs top to bottom. It's pretty noticeable and it's almost impossible not to see it on the slides even if you look quickly once you know it's there.

I also noticed as I looked around the screen, an almost "cascading" kind of strangeness - seemingly dozens of strange vertical lines that move side to side as I move my head side to side. They're almost not even there the way they come and go - just kind of shimmering as I move. It's totally different from the yellowish line that is definitely in that one spot top to bottom. Is this shimmering lines thing the DSE some people refer to? I noticed during that movie when I saw the line that the screen seemed to have lots of "junk" against the white sky in the background when the camera panned back and forth - it looked just like the screen had bits or dirt all over it - I imagine this must be the DSE which I've never encountered before. Does that explain those shimmering lines I notice when viewing the slides too?

So now I don't know how to proceed with this. Is this "DSE" (if that's what it is) acceptable or should I make a call? And what about that line that is definitely on the screen? I haven't noticed it there before but I can't say for certain it wasn't there and I guess it must have been there all along but I just now noticed it. Now I'm noticing it with regular viewing if that part of the screen has a solid clean background behind it. I even see it looking at the screen from an angle.

I don't know if I can face getting another plasma swapped out and having to start another fresh round of break-in. I just can't take it and my girlfriend will kill me if I have to do another week or two of break in like I did with this set. I was just settling in and facing the facts that this set has an ABL issue but I guess I'll just have to learn to live with it, and now this line shows itself to me. And I only have like 4 days left to return the set to Best Buy and I just bought the extended warranty from them too. I swear I'm not going to do another plasma if this doesn't work out. It's just not worth it. My girlfriend's folks bought a cheap Vizio 18 months ago (thicker, maybe no edge-LED lighting?) and I swear it has a better image than the new LEDs I see in the stores (no flashlighting, no fluctuations, very good viewing angle). If the money wasn't caught up in Best Buy now and we had to use it for something, I'd just give up and buy a used CRT and see what happens next year.

Sorry for the rant. I'm just frustrated. Can't believe I have to start making calls about this line now. I can't just ignore it on a brand new set. Too bad companies don't have a quality control dept anymore. I guess that's what the customer is for.
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post #1825 of 4310 Old 06-13-2012, 03:11 AM
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I just discovered something about the screen tonight on my E8000 and now I'm really worried. I was watching a movie on cable tonight and there was a long scene set outside and the sky was pretty much all white in the background, and I just happened to notice for the first time a faint vertical line cutting down the length of the screen, top to bottom. It was rather yellowish and didn't move as the scene progressed. A bit later I put on the color slides for the first time (I wasn't planning on even looking at the slides and doing this to myself but now I had to check out this line) and sure enough I can see the very-slightly-yellowish-tinted line on all the slides, all shades of white and grey (colors too but harder to see). It's about 10 inches roughly from the right side of the screen, and runs top to bottom. It's pretty noticeable and it's almost impossible not to see it on the slides even if you look quickly once you know it's there.
I also noticed as I looked around the screen, an almost "cascading" kind of strangeness - seemingly dozens of strange vertical lines that move side to side as I move my head side to side. They're almost not even there the way they come and go - just kind of shimmering as I move. It's totally different from the yellowish line that is definitely in that one spot top to bottom. Is this shimmering lines thing the DSE some people refer to? I noticed during that movie when I saw the line that the screen seemed to have lots of "junk" against the white sky in the background when the camera panned back and forth - it looked just like the screen had bits or dirt all over it - I imagine this must be the DSE which I've never encountered before. Does that explain those shimmering lines I notice when viewing the slides too?
So now I don't know how to proceed with this. Is this "DSE" (if that's what it is) acceptable or should I make a call? And what about that line that is definitely on the screen? I haven't noticed it there before but I can't say for certain it wasn't there and I guess it must have been there all along but I just now noticed it. Now I'm noticing it with regular viewing if that part of the screen has a solid clean background behind it. I even see it looking at the screen from an angle.
I don't know if I can face getting another plasma swapped out and having to start another fresh round of break-in. I just can't take it and my girlfriend will kill me if I have to do another week or two of break in like I did with this set. I was just settling in and facing the facts that this set has an ABL issue but I guess I'll just have to learn to live with it, and now this line shows itself to me. And I only have like 4 days left to return the set to Best Buy and I just bought the extended warranty from them too. I swear I'm not going to do another plasma if this doesn't work out. It's just not worth it. My girlfriend's folks bought a cheap Vizio 18 months ago (thicker, maybe no edge-LED lighting?) and I swear it has a better image than the new LEDs I see in the stores (no flashlighting, no fluctuations, very good viewing angle). If the money wasn't caught up in Best Buy now and we had to use it for something, I'd just give up and buy a used CRT and see what happens next year.
Sorry for the rant. I'm just frustrated. Can't believe I have to start making calls about this line now. I can't just ignore it on a brand new set. Too bad companies don't have a quality control dept anymore. I guess that's what the customer is for.

The yellow vertical line is color banding plain and simple... cant fix that, if it is what you described its a bad panel. Im not experienced with DSE. Your lucky you have options. I got my E8000 becuase my C8000 had color banding, but samsung does not give the option to change technologies upon replacement (led/lcd).

Not going to tell you what to do, but you have a bad panel.
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post #1826 of 4310 Old 06-13-2012, 06:53 AM
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By 'dirty screen effect' do you guys mean screen uniformity problems -- the type that shows up on a pure gray or white screen as amorphous areas of light green and pink?
Larry

Inconsistent gray vertical streaks that show up on light backgrounds. The problem is noticeable on an all white or gray background but really shows up when there is horizontal motion panning involved.
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post #1827 of 4310 Old 06-13-2012, 07:02 AM
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My cell light is on 20 and my brightness is currently on 48. May I ask what your brightness is on?

Brightness is at 47.

Friday, I will be taking mine back and the store is going to open one or two sets so we can check DSE. I'll see if I can check ABL and screen-off issues as well. This beats having to take a new replacement home each time then finding out that all the same problems exist.
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post #1828 of 4310 Old 06-13-2012, 10:20 AM
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I was able to get in with the second option. However there is no panel display time under the svc option. I actually went through all the options and I did not see "panel display time" anywhere

You'll need to use your down arrow to go to the svc info option. You'll then be able to see the panel display time.

Definitely have your settings written down... you will need to re-enter them.

PN60E7000, Denon AVR-3805, B&W P6, B&W Matrix HTM, Infinity Beta ES 250
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post #1829 of 4310 Old 06-13-2012, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

By 'dirty screen effect' do you guys mean screen uniformity problems -- the type that shows up on a pure gray or white screen as amorphous areas of light green and pink?
Larry

Yes thats what i'm referring to. The last 3 panels i've gotten have had it starting with my original D7000 then they replaced the panel and the new panel had it. Now I have gotten a replacement 60E7000 which also has it. If I can't get one that doesn't this next time I might just ask for a refund. I don't really know what else to do at this point.

I just can't but up with it for a brand new tv, its very distracting on any bluray with alot of white or shots of the sky when its light blue.

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Originally Posted by fstrat76 View Post

Inconsistent gray vertical streaks that show up on light backgrounds. The problem is noticeable on an all white or gray background but really shows up when there is horizontal motion panning involved.

This is exactly what mine looks like. Any full white jpeg from the break in slides the screen looks super blotchy with grey vertical streaks about every 6" on the screen.
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post #1830 of 4310 Old 06-13-2012, 10:38 AM
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I just noticed a new App in Smart Hub that allows you to sign up for the Gaikai beta. Anyone notice SPI Filmbox show up last week and then disappear? It looked like a good service for international films. I hope it comes back. Where is that damn HBO GO?
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