Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 226 - AVS Forum
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post #6751 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

Should I be worried? eek.gif Lower right hand corner.



This is from watching 2 continuous hours of the History channel. My set is still fairly new, only around 250 hours old. Does this seem normal or is my set possibly defective?
Your set is normal. Here is a link to where I've answered the same concerns of another plasma owner.

IR and Normal Use

Calibration Resources:

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post #6752 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by WOLVERNOLE View Post

Do you really mean to say what you said? "...an after image on a dark background?" Don't you mean "an after image on a light/white background?" I have NEVER seen an afterimage on a darker image. Am I missing something? English can be a wonderful vehicle for communication...sometimes.eek.gif

Take a black background with a white square in the middle. Leave it for 10 seconds and then switch to an all black background. You will see a faint outline of the white square in the black background, it should show up as a dark grey square, slightly lighter than the black background itself. I notice this most frequently when I bring up the Xbox 360 guide button on a darker background.
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post #6753 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Your set is normal. Here is a link to where I've answered the same concerns of another plasma owner.

IR and Normal Use

I appreciate the reply. I was always under the impression it was normal, but some people swear any IR or buzzing means your set is defective. Would you agree that the set will likely become more IR resistant as it ages? From everything I read prior to purchasing the TV it sounded like, while the first 100-200 are especially dangerous, you can can still be prone to quick onset IR from the first 500 up to 1000 hours. What do you think about my experiences with the Menu?
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post #6754 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

First off, I just wanted to say that I have been using your night settings HD-Master and they are excellent. I found the picture to be much sharper overall than the D-Nice settings. That could have something to do with me not following his procedure at all though. biggrin.gif

I found something out that pertains to your Day settings. I was recently testing some things myself, trying to get Game mode as accurate as your night settings. I noticed that contrast is actually capped on all the modes. I didn't test on Cinema or Vivid, but I did check the rest of them. On THX Bright Room, Custom, and Game, the contrast is all capped at 80. On THX Cinema the contrast is capped at 70. I didn't use any kind of equipment, but I used a number of different samples. The increase in brightness is easily noticeable going from 75-80, and 65-70, respectively. Anything farther than those points yielded absolutely no detectable change in brightness. So unless I'm way off, your day settings are only 2 contrast higher than your night settings.

My Night settings measure at about 31fL, while the day settings measure at about 48fL. I'm not sure what you had on the screen when you were looking at this, but it may have triggered ABL.


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post #6755 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by unarmdragon View Post

probably a dumb question, but how are people doing 2 custom settings? like in hd-master post, he has one custom settings for day and one for night.

I use an HDMI splitter. One HDMI cable out of my AVR is split to two HDMI inputs on my GT50. My "Day" Custom settings are on HDMI 1, while my "Night" Custom settings are on HDMI 2. I use a Harmony remote and have separate day and night modes for each activity.


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post #6756 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

My Night settings measure at about 31fL, while the day settings measure at about 48fL. I'm not sure what you had on the screen when you were looking at this, but it may have triggered ABL.

No, I definitely used enough samples that they wouldn't all have triggered the ABL. I won't claim to know better than your settings, especially if you're using actual testing equipment, but personally I didn't see any contrast difference above 80, and above 70 for THX Cinema. It actually made a lot of sense though, Cinema is darker than Custom because of the cap, THX BR is so bright due to a higher built-in gamma setting, Game mode appears brighter than Custom even though it's the same brightness, due to the fact it has an extremely aggressive form of AGC.

I would check again but I'm trying to get rid of the IR from my menu... again biggrin.gif Guess I'll just chalk this one up as a mystery.
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post #6757 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

I appreciate the reply. I was always under the impression it was normal, but some people swear any IR or buzzing means your set is defective. Would you agree that the set will likely become more IR resistant as it ages? From everything I read prior to purchasing the TV it sounded like, while the first 100-200 are especially dangerous, you can can still be prone to quick onset IR from the first 500 up to 1000 hours. What do you think about my experiences with the Menu?

It probably is defective, if its an LED or LCD TV. And my TV is more IR resistant but the most important thing about IR is what your TV is set to because the brighter, higher you have brightness set, the more IR you are going to see.
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post #6758 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 12:01 PM
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Did anyone purchased 65gt50 from Amazon in the past 2-3 weeks? Are they shipping revised V2 sets of 65GT50 with Buzzing fixed or is it a random draw? Also how is the screen uniformity on your 65GT50? I noticed that on 55GT50 it is quite good, almost perfect but local stores do not have 65GT50 to see only 65VT50 and VT50 is not great in the screen uniformity department, in fact I will go as far to say that 60U54 at Sam's has more uniformity than VT50. I am coming from Elite thread to hear battling screen uniformity on Elite, I got aware that all screens have it, moderate grey DSE does not bother me, bands on the right side of VT50 that I saw on October 2012 VT50 was just distracting. How are your GTs or even STs in this department?
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post #6759 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

I use an HDMI splitter. One HDMI cable out of my AVR is split to two HDMI inputs on my GT50. My "Day" Custom settings are on HDMI 1, while my "Night" Custom settings are on HDMI 2. I use a Harmony remote and have separate day and night modes for each activity.

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Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

I don't know all the details, but it's something like this. You can have different settings for each input on your TV, so if you have an HDMI switch/(splitter?) then you simply change the input to go to your other settings. Again I'm not positive how it works, but HD-Master has explained he uses this method before.

thanks
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post #6760 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by unarmdragon View Post

probably a dumb question, but how are people doing 2 custom settings? like in hd-master post, he has one custom settings for day and one for night.

One for watching content during the day and one for at night. This is due to the different level of light in ones room. If one has a dedicated HT room with no windows or a way to darken the room the day settings would not be needed. My system is in my livingroom which has a number of windows. So I need and appreciate having the two different settings smile.gif.

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post #6761 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 12:05 PM
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Alright so I couldn't resist the temptation HD-Master.



I used this picture just now. To the best of my knowledge it didn't trigger the ABL, even at 100 contrast. Going from 75-80 on Custom is easily noticeable, where as nothing from 80-100 could be spotted at all. Maybe you can use the same picture and test it? I'm not really sure what I'm trying to get at here, unless it's just my TV, the contrast definitely seems to be capped.

The original can be found here.
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post #6762 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 12:34 PM
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I'm trying to find out if anyone else has experienced what I'm experiencing when watching movies on my GT50 plasma. Basically, in dark scenes with one or two bright components ... the bright light is almost TOO bright and thus a blurry halo is generated around the on-screen source of the light. Future-wife is also sensitive too this stating "some scenes are just too bright"... In daytime scenes, everything is fine... but it's dark scenes with a bright source that a hard to watch.

I'm using the default THX cinema mode. Any ideas or recommendations would be appreciated.
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post #6763 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonichart View Post

I'm trying to find out if anyone else has experienced what I'm experiencing when watching movies on my GT50 plasma. Basically, in dark scenes with one or two bright components ... the bright light is almost TOO bright and thus a blurry halo is generated around the on-screen source of the light. Future-wife is also sensitive too this stating "some scenes are just too bright"... In daytime scenes, everything is fine... but it's dark scenes with a bright source that a hard to watch.

I'm using the default THX cinema mode. Any ideas or recommendations would be appreciated.

I imagine it's due to the fact that bright lights in a dark scene will appear correct, as opposed to bright scenes being dimmed by the ABL. I only recently had an LCD, and after getting used to my GT50 my eyes are practically scorched out when a bright scene/background comes up on an LED TV. I have only seen a few instances of what you describe, but yes it is bright when the majority of what we watch on a plasma is brightness controlled.
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post #6764 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Your set is normal. Here is a link to where I've answered the same concerns of another plasma owner.

IR and Normal Use

I appreciate the reply. I was always under the impression it was normal, but some people swear any IR or buzzing means your set is defective.
I don't agree with "some people". There don't seem to be any points of view that "some people" won't support or appose. wink.gif
Quote:
Would you agree that the set will likely become more IR resistant as it ages?
Yes. Also, I agree that calibrating a display with excessive brightness can increase IR problems.
Quote:
From everything I read prior to purchasing the TV it sounded like, while the first 100-200 are especially dangerous, you can can still be prone to quick onset IR from the first 500 up to 1000 hours. What do you think about my experiences with the Menu?
I am not qualified to comment on what you call "quick onset IR". Our current display was professionally calibrated at 900 hours and that was the first time the Menu system was used for any extended period of time. There were no traces of Menu IR after that first calibration. I must have used the Menus for a short amount of time before we had the first calibration done, but I haven't had reason to us the Menu since that time. Over time, going into the Menu for extended periods should have less effect, but I don't know how to quantify it.

By the way, what ever you can see on your screen did not survive passing through your camera to my computer monitor.

Mix it up and enjoy. biggrin.gif

Calibration Resources:

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post #6765 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dvzzz View Post

Did anyone purchased 65gt50 from Amazon in the past 2-3 weeks? Are they shipping revised V2 sets of 65GT50 with Buzzing fixed or is it a random draw? Also how is the screen uniformity on your 65GT50? I noticed that on 55GT50 it is quite good, almost perfect but local stores do not have 65GT50 to see only 65VT50 and VT50 is not great in the screen uniformity department, in fact I will go as far to say that 60U54 at Sam's has more uniformity than VT50. I am coming from Elite thread to hear battling screen uniformity on Elite, I got aware that all screens have it, moderate grey DSE does not bother me, bands on the right side of VT50 that I saw on October 2012 VT50 was just distracting. How are your GTs or even STs in this department?

I purchased a 65GT50 from Amazon, received it on Feb 7th. It was a v2 set. Tomorrow I am receiving a replacement due to buzzing. Uniformity is excellent. Everything about the set is excellent (forget the fact that I happen to be one who sees the plasma "rainbow" effect). I see no DSE. Coming from an LCD, this picture is a dream.

The buzzing on my set is very minor. Definately not related to loose screws or some such. It happens on bright scenes, and I can hear it from 14' (seating) over quite scenes, or scenes with dialog an no other sound. In fact, I can hear it at ~18' (standing behind my seating area). My wife cannot hear it. I have much more sensitive hearing than most people, so I don't know if what I'm hearing is normal for most people (because they are less ensitive to these types of noises), or if it seriously is noisy compared to other 65GT50 TVs. I will know tomorrow if the new set is better than my current set.

Either way, I could probably get used to the buzzing on my current set, but I just have to know if it could be better. Someone mentioned that their clock made more noise than their TV. This is true in my case. I have a ticking clock in the room, but never hear it because I've gotten used to it. When I take the time to focus on the clock, it is definately louder than the buzz.
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I don't know if these will do anyone any good, but I figure I would post my Game mode settings since I spent enough time on them.

Note: I only have a 50" model. These settings may appear strange, that's because game mode uses an aggressive form of the AGC, found in the Pro settings of the custom menu. What this does is brighten up a dark image automatically, the difference here is that it's probably 5x stronger in Game mode than it is in the custom settings, even at a max of 15. For this reason I had to try and strike a balance between keeping bright images bright, and trying to make dark images appear as natural as possible. These settings should look natural in all but the very darkest of environments.

Basic Settings

Picture Mode: Game
Contrast: 77
Brightness: 46
Color: 45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 40 (0 if you prefer)
Color Temp: Warm 2
CATS: Off
Video NR: Off

HDMI Settings

Content: Graphics

Advanced Picture

Block NR: Off
Mosquito Noise: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
1080p Pure Direct: On
Black Level: Light
3:2 Pulldown: Auto
24p Direct In: 60Hz
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post #6767 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonichart View Post

I'm trying to find out if anyone else has experienced what I'm experiencing when watching movies on my GT50 plasma. Basically, in dark scenes with one or two bright components ... the bright light is almost TOO bright and thus a blurry halo is generated around the on-screen source of the light. Future-wife is also sensitive too this stating "some scenes are just too bright"... In daytime scenes, everything is fine... but it's dark scenes with a bright source that a hard to watch.

I'm using the default THX cinema mode. Any ideas or recommendations would be appreciated.

Yes, I just asked about this same thing (although worded a little differently) a few pages back. Not sure if it's just because I'm not used to the high level of contrast created by this screen compared to my last TVs or what.
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post #6768 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by size14d View Post

.... You need to change your TV's resolution to that provider's native resolution, Fox and ABC are 720p and CBS and NBC are 1080i. Otherwise you can get artifacts from your TV converting the signal.

You can get antenna info here http://www.antennaweb.org/Address.aspx and antennas can't be prohibited from being erected due to homeowner covenants, its illegal.

How exactly are you changing the TV's resolution ??? It's fixed at 1080P. What am I missing here ?
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post #6769 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

I don't know if these will do anyone any good, but I figure I would post my Game mode settings since I spent enough time on them.

Note: I only have a 50" model. These settings may appear strange, that's because game mode uses an aggressive form of the AGC, found in the Pro settings of the custom menu. What this does is brighten up a dark image automatically, the difference here is that it's probably 5x stronger in Game mode than it is in the custom settings, even at a max of 15. For this reason I had to try and strike a balance between keeping bright images bright, and trying to make dark images appear as natural as possible. These settings should look natural in all but the very darkest of environments.

Basic Settings

Picture Mode: Game
Contrast: 74
Brightness: 46
Color: 45
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 40 (0 if you prefer)
Color Temp: Warm 1
CATS: Off
Video NR: Off

HDMI Settings

Content: Graphics

Advanced Picture

Block NR: Off
Mosquito Noise: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
1080p Pure Direct: On
Black Level: Light
3:2 Pulldown: Auto
24p Direct In: 60Hz

For me, I used the darkest setting I can stand to eliminate IR from static images as much as possible. I also go into the menu and reduce any on screen static displays as much as possible or I play a game mode with fewer static images. A good example of changing game mode would be Call of Duty Black Ops II which I play in hardcore more than core because it takes off the radar top left (although I never got much if any IR from it) and the inventory status on the bottom right which does leave IR.
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post #6770 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by size14d View Post

For me, I used the darkest setting I can stand to eliminate IR from static images as much as possible. I also go into the menu and reduce any on screen static displays as much as possible or I play a game mode with fewer static images. A good example of changing game mode would be Call of Duty Black Ops II which I play in hardcore more than core because it takes off the radar top left (although I never got much if any IR from it) and the inventory status on the bottom right which does leave IR.

I'm not really following. Personally I was just trying to find settings for game mode that weren't terrible. I think I succeeded somewhat, but I just went back to custom anyway because the lag doesn't bother me at all. I was mainly just trying to figure out what the heck was wrong with game mode. I thought it was a brighter mode overall, and made worse by the dynamic brightness, but I didn't realize it had such horrible built in AGC on top of all that.
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post #6771 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 01:43 PM
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@PDCL thanks for taking time to comment. This is encouraging. Don't feel bad about hearing buzzing. On the Elite thread I was the one who was blamed for superhuman sensitivity to pink/green DSE until 10 more people spotted it once I posted my pics and started to complain. I see what I see and you hear what you hear. You should enjoy the set, you are paying for it after all. Buzzing is bad in itself but to me VT50 uniformity at the local store was a revelation, I thought plasma does not have DSE or bands. I saw both on the same set. Compare $700 plasma to $2500 and $700 unit's uniformity is about perfect while $2500 has all the issues. I am thinking it must be the applied filters that are causing these effects that I see how else can I explain it? I am quickly learning the simpler the better... You post is very encouraging. Thanks again.

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I purchased a 65GT50 from Amazon, received it on Feb 7th. It was a v2 set. Tomorrow I am receiving a replacement due to buzzing. Uniformity is excellent. Everything about the set is excellent (forget the fact that I happen to be one who sees the plasma "rainbow" effect). I see no DSE. Coming from an LCD, this picture is a dream.

The buzzing on my set is very minor. Definately not related to loose screws or some such. It happens on bright scenes, and I can hear it from 14' (seating) over quite scenes, or scenes with dialog an no other sound. In fact, I can hear it at ~18' (standing behind my seating area). My wife cannot hear it. I have much more sensitive hearing than most people, so I don't know if what I'm hearing is normal for most people (because they are less ensitive to these types of noises), or if it seriously is noisy compared to other 65GT50 TVs. I will know tomorrow if the new set is better than my current set.

Either way, I could probably get used to the buzzing on my current set, but I just have to know if it could be better. Someone mentioned that their clock made more noise than their TV. This is true in my case. I have a ticking clock in the room, but never hear it because I've gotten used to it. When I take the time to focus on the clock, it is definately louder than the buzz.
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post #6772 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

Alright so I couldn't resist the temptation HD-Master.



I used this picture just now. To the best of my knowledge it didn't trigger the ABL, even at 100 contrast. Going from 75-80 on Custom is easily noticeable, where as nothing from 80-100 could be spotted at all. Maybe you can use the same picture and test it? I'm not really sure what I'm trying to get at here, unless it's just my TV, the contrast definitely seems to be capped.

The original can be found here.
I notice it getting brighter after 80 (contrast), but it's very very slight especially from ~92 to 100 where it's almost impossible to tell with my eyes. I would think equipment measures this more accurately than our eyes.

My bedroom TV (panny pdp from '08) in cinema mode stops at 88 and there is no difference between 88 and 100 contrast (equipment proven) so I see what you are getting at.
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post #6773 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jbdan View Post

I notice it getting brighter after 80 (contrast), but it's very very slight especially from ~92 to 100 where it's almost impossible to tell with my eyes. I would think equipment measures this more accurately than our eyes.

My bedroom TV (panny pdp from '08) in cinema mode stops at 88 and there is no difference between 88 and 100 contrast (equipment proven) so I see what you are getting at.

I originally thought that I just couldn't detect the change afterward, but it just doesn't make sense. The brightness increase is noticeable from every single click going from 75-80. I can see the brightness go up from just 79-80. From 80-100 there's absolutely nothing changing. At first I "thought" I may have seen it get brighter after 80, but I was just imagining it. It also wouldn't make sense for the contrast to change so drastically when 75-80 is clearly noticeable. I was also wrong about THX Cinema, contrast is capped at only 68. I also figured I would go back and check the other modes out of curiosity. Standard surprisingly had no cap, the screen got noticeably brighter from 95-100. Cinema mode was difficult to tell due to the low brightness, but my best estimate is around 56. Anything after that point doesn't seem to add any more brightness to the image. Vivid was capped at 82, and that makes sense considering it's one of the notoriously bright settings.
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post #6774 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 02:46 PM
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Try looking at any still image in Cinema. You can see the brightness increase from a contrast of 50-56 quite easily. Then go ahead and go from 56-100 while covering up the bar at the bottom with your hand. Once your at 100 do the same thing backwards and stop when you think the image starts to get darker.
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post #6775 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

I'm not really following. Personally I was just trying to find settings for game mode that weren't terrible. I think I succeeded somewhat, but I just went back to custom anyway because the lag doesn't bother me at all. I was mainly just trying to figure out what the heck was wrong with game mode. I thought it was a brighter mode overall, and made worse by the dynamic brightness, but I didn't realize it had such horrible built in AGC on top of all that.

I have brightness down at 60 and contrast low too to minimize the difference in static white images and brightness that cause IR.
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post #6776 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 02:58 PM
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I have brightness down at 60 and contrast low too to minimize the difference in static white images and brightness that cause IR.

Oh, I see. I wasn't concerned with IR, I was trying to figure out why the heck game mode was so screwed up. With brightness at 60 your blacks aren't even blacks, they are gray. Well, maybe not gray, but a solid black slide will be lighter than it should and have a lot of dithering. You need to use a lower brightness to avoid that. Even then you will have grays where you would have black on the Custom setting though, due to the AGC.
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post #6777 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 04:40 PM
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Conversion works fine on YouTube; based on that, it does work in the Viera apps. I can't comment on any limitations that Netflix or Hulu placed in their apps because I don't use either. The conversion occurs after the signal is in the TV so I can't imagine why any signal from any source can't be converted. Every source I have ever tried gives me the standard 2D>3D format select or the 7 conversion options after keying the red button manual mode.


Ha, looks like it works on everything (at least Hulu, YouTube, and Amazon) except Netflix!! Wonder if that's because Netflix knew it would be rolling out its own 3D with Super HD/3D for OpenConnect partners...

Oh we'll, if charter gets their act together ill have that option on Netflix.


Also, why the hell don't networks swap their logo side every commercial break or something?! They know these TVs are out there, they have been for many years, it would be an easy fix, and then every like five to eight minutes you would get a commercial break PLUS the next five or eight minutes to "clean" the logo away. I figure all these are digital overlays onto the video from some broadcast point. It doesn't seem that hard.

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post #6778 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 04:51 PM
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does anyone know if the 24k gradient is present in custom mode? The cinema and thx cinema mode have them. It's supposed to allow smoother shades of gradation iirc which also impacts color. Speaking of, has anyone tried calibrating thx cinema in the service menu?
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post #6779 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dvzzz View Post

Did anyone purchased 65gt50 from Amazon in the past 2-3 weeks? Are they shipping revised V2 sets of 65GT50 with Buzzing fixed or is it a random draw? Also how is the screen uniformity on your 65GT50? I noticed that on 55GT50 it is quite good, almost perfect but local stores do not have 65GT50 to see only 65VT50 and VT50 is not great in the screen uniformity department, in fact I will go as far to say that 60U54 at Sam's has more uniformity than VT50. I am coming from Elite thread to hear battling screen uniformity on Elite, I got aware that all screens have it, moderate grey DSE does not bother me, bands on the right side of VT50 that I saw on October 2012 VT50 was just distracting. How are your GTs or even STs in this department?

The 65GT50 I purchased from Amazon 2 weeks ago was an April 2012 build and a real buzzer. I had a service call this week but it is actually worse now. I've already arranged a return thru Amazon. Not sure where I go from here.

Sean
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post #6780 of 9798 Old 02-21-2013, 05:48 PM
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@PDCL thanks for taking time to comment. This is encouraging. Don't feel bad about hearing buzzing. On the Elite thread I was the one who was blamed for superhuman sensitivity to pink/green DSE until 10 more people spotted it once I posted my pics and started to complain. I see what I see and you hear what you hear. You should enjoy the set, you are paying for it after all. Buzzing is bad in itself but to me VT50 uniformity at the local store was a revelation, I thought plasma does not have DSE or bands. I saw both on the same set. Compare $700 plasma to $2500 and $700 unit's uniformity is about perfect while $2500 has all the issues. I am thinking it must be the applied filters that are causing these effects that I see how else can I explain it? I am quickly learning the simpler the better... You post is very encouraging. Thanks again.

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The 65GT50 I purchased from Amazon 2 weeks ago was an April 2012 build and a real buzzer. I had a service call this week but it is actually worse now. I've already arranged a return thru Amazon. Not sure where I go from here.

I should have mentioned that my current unit is a November 2012 build.
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