Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 247 - AVS Forum
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post #7381 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 01:04 PM
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Well I hope it does help. I know what it is like to mess with something I shouldn't and then suffer the concequences.

I figure he learned his lesson and if he does happen to figure something out with all his messing around

that can benefit the rest of us then all the better.

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post #7382 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by tpollagi View Post

Are you saying that the TV is making noise when the power is turned off ? It may make some subtle noises after you turn it off while the unit cools down but there should not be any buzzing from the TV when off. Unplug the TV and make sure the noise is actually coming from it. Do you have any other components near the TV that could be making these noises ?

i originally thought it was when i turned it off durin cool down. however, i haven't had the tv on for over 24 hours and i just randomly heard it. could it be somewhat ambient noise that you normally wouldn't hear, but i hear it since my laptop is beside the tv, thus my head is about 15 to 20 inches from the side of the panel?
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post #7383 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Practolog View Post

If u go into SM and just see the factory presets it didnt change any settings there but it can help me to restore my TV, but if u afraid, thats ok, but if u change ur mind i can call u to Skype and tell what to do step by step. thx

I'm not sure if this post was in response to my post. But if it is I'm not afraid to go into the SM just smart enough not to and mess around with settings I have no business doing so.

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post #7384 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 03:21 PM
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My apologies if this has already been discussed to death, but can someone explain if and/or why 48hz is better for 3D? Also, does anyone have any general advice when it comes to 3D settings? I have entered HDMaster's settings which look great, but the other presets (with the exception of Game and Vivid) seems far too dim. Thanks
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post #7385 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Clavius View Post

My apologies if this has already been discussed to death, but can someone explain if and/or why 48hz is better for 3D? Also, does anyone have any general advice when it comes to 3D settings? I have entered HDMaster's settings which look great, but the other presets (with the exception of Game and Vivid) seems far too dim. Thanks

In 60hz mode and 3D on, the panel is running at 120hz so the panel is running at the phosphors speed limit. At that point the green sub pixels are the slowest to turn off and there's less off time between frames so you may see crosstalk at the edge of contrasting parts of an image. In 48hz mode the panel has more off time between frames so the green sub pixels have more time to turn off and then there can be less crosstalk. So 60hz equals possible crosstalk and cadence judder and 48hz equals less or no judder and less crosstalk.
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post #7386 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ImStylinonYaBro View Post

i originally thought it was when i turned it off durin cool down. however, i haven't had the tv on for over 24 hours and i just randomly heard it. could it be somewhat ambient noise that you normally wouldn't hear, but i hear it since my laptop is beside the tv, thus my head is about 15 to 20 inches from the side of the panel?

Well, the front surface of the TV is basically just a big piece of glass so I guess you may just be hearing some other noise reflecting off the glass surface. Laptops can make some different noises from the fan and hard drive that you usually don't hear from a normal operating position. Maybe you just heard a reflected sound from the back or side of the laptop ???
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post #7387 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 04:15 PM
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I haven't used the TVs internet browser in months. I just watched the Iron Man 3 trailer on PC Magazine's website and had zero problems at all. Is the tv now more flash friendly? It also seemed to load everything faster too.

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post #7388 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Practolog View Post

also i ask u a help besides SM, who can open the back case of the tv and and measure the voltage on the testpoint is very important to me because outta operation panel

So besides that i fount Hex-Editor in SM of 50-series, have any idea how trough MEMORY EDITOR unlock 10-point gray calibrtion + 6 asix CMS + 96Hz(24p Dirrect in)
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Originally Posted by Bill Mac View Post

I'm not sure how many will be willing to open the back case of their GT50 and poke around in there. I'm certainly not going to. I'm staying away from the service menu as well as it seems it might have been good if you did as well. If one does mess with the SM I have read it is best if one copies down the original settings.

Bill

Ditto

Also, you won't get help any faster by continuously posting to ask for help. If someone can help they will. wink.gif

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post #7389 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Practolog View Post

Friends you are completely wrong factory settings within SM identical within each model ST50 say the same 42-65 50-65 GT50 same holds true for Vt50, but the settings are different from SD and HD when we bring down SD and HD flies trust myself Engineer I was Tx-P50ST50 but I hate stupid dithering in all modes so I upgrade him to GT50 for American Cinema and custom modes where possible use 24K gray levels and eliminate the dithering, but with double the MLL increase ((
I also have a service manual, and everything else so I ask who can really help me i need parameters SM and one metering voltage Vda control point, all I can tell you here or skaype also know how to go to the memory editor if you are interested unlock 10 point range and 6-axis color CMS

SM settings are different and you know that, this is why you want US settings for your Euro TV. If you are an engineer then how did you get yourself into your claimed jam (if indeed you are in a jam). Oh, and US sets have dithering problems too. How much are you charging people to increase their mll?

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post #7390 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

SM settings are different and you know that, this is why you want US settings for your Euro TV. If you are an engineer then how did you get yourself into your claimed jam (if indeed you are in a jam). Oh, and US sets have dithering problems too. How much are you charging people to increase their mll?
Yi. Theres something fishy there.
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post #7391 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Yi. Theres something fishy there.

I think he's trying to do the something similar to what they did to the LGs last year (or the year before). EU sets are different and brightness is capped. I don't recall the reason but it could have something to do with the voltage. Does anyone recall why?

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post #7392 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

I think he's trying to do the something similar to what they did to the LGs last year (or the year before). EU sets are different and brightness is capped. I don't recall the reason but it could have something to do with the voltage. Does anyone recall why?
I have no clue. Have you noticed that he joined the forum and pressed everybody for the numbers and then once he got them he bolted. Hasnt even posted to say Thanks. rolleyes.gif
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post #7393 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I have no clue. Have you noticed that he joined the forum and pressed everybody for the numbers and then once he got them he bolted. Hasnt even posted to say Thanks. rolleyes.gif

Yep. I wish Rypaul would delete them, just in case he wasn't able to get them down. Not that he probably won't get the assistance he wants on any other forum.
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post #7394 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 04:52 PM
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While we're on the subject of SM settings, let me put this piece of advice out there. If you're going to get your set calibrated by BB you'll want to get the original settings before he/she makes any changes. Better safe than sorry, and there have been people who were sorry after BB left. wink.gif

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post #7395 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by whipit View Post

In 60hz mode and 3D on, the panel is running at 120hz so the panel is running at the phosphors speed limit. At that point the green sub pixels are the slowest to turn off and there's less off time between frames so you may see crosstalk at the edge of contrasting parts of an image. In 48hz mode the panel has more off time between frames so the green sub pixels have more time to turn off and then there can be less crosstalk. So 60hz equals possible crosstalk and cadence judder and 48hz equals less or no judder and less crosstalk.

Thank you for the great explanation. Do you have any advice when it comes to brightness and 3D? After switching to 48hz, I noticed a huge improvement in 3D and I'm curious if there is a similar "quick fix" for making the picture brighter.
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post #7396 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

While we're on the subject of SM settings, let me put this piece of advice out there. If you're going to get your set calibrated by BB you'll want to get the original settings before he/she makes any changes. Better safe than sorry, and there have been people who were sorry after BB left. wink.gif
Oh yes!
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post #7397 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I have no clue. Have you noticed that he joined the forum and pressed everybody for the numbers and then once he got them he bolted. Hasnt even posted to say Thanks. rolleyes.gif
Which is why I said I hope it didn't help him. Shouldn't have been there in the 1st place.
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post #7398 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 05:49 PM
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Well, the replacement for my last set came today. Same deliveryman, good guy. Took the old one down, put it in the box of the new one, got the new one all set up on the stand which he couldn't do last time because it wasn't ready. Couldn't turn it on because it was cold so I let it rest a couple hours.

It is an April 2012 build, so obviously one of the very early ones. The serial number does not have the "-2" that my November build had. The new remote does not have the Netflix button and the SD/USB button is in a different place. Doesn't really matter, any time I used the native Netflix app on the first version, it was horrible quality anyway. I'll just use the PS3/360 Netflix apps. I assume the remote is the only difference I'll see between an April and November build?

The software took about 10 minutes to update, I didn't have to do that the first time with the November build. Plugged it into the cable box, I still got some buzzing during regular content, but not near the level it was before and it's really only audible during all white commercials. I did notice that draping a towel over the back temporarily almost completely muffled the buzz, so I really am wondering if the acoustics of the room are amplifying the buzz. I'll give it a few days to see if I notice it in other situations but so far so good.

Interestingly enough, when I plugged HD's settings into this one, things seemed to pop even more than they did on the last set. The last one had some slightly dull reds, the reds now seem to be right on the money.
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post #7399 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by HuskerPower25 View Post

Well, the replacement for my last set came today. Same deliveryman, good guy. Took the old one down, put it in the box of the new one, got the new one all set up on the stand which he couldn't do last time because it wasn't ready. Couldn't turn it on because it was cold so I let it rest a couple hours.

It is an April 2012 build, so obviously one of the very early ones. The serial number does not have the "-2" that my November build had. The new remote does not have the Netflix button and the SD/USB button is in a different place. Doesn't really matter, any time I used the native Netflix app on the first version, it was horrible quality anyway. I'll just use the PS3/360 Netflix apps. I assume the remote is the only difference I'll see between an April and November build?

The software took about 10 minutes to update, I didn't have to do that the first time with the November build. Plugged it into the cable box, I still got some buzzing during regular content, but not near the level it was before and it's really only audible during all white commercials. I did notice that draping a towel over the back temporarily almost completely muffled the buzz, so I really am wondering if the acoustics of the room are amplifying the buzz. I'll give it a few days to see if I notice it in other situations but so far so good.

Interestingly enough, when I plugged HD's settings into this one, things seemed to pop even more than they did on the last set. The last one had some slightly dull reds, the reds now seem to be right on the money.

Good news! I must have an early one since I never had the Netflix button, I had no idea one existed. I'm interested in hearing what you think about it after a few days. I ran it on a HD channel with few logo appearance for about 24 hours to let it settle in some. I swear I saw an improvement after that and again after another week or two.

How far from the tv can you hear the buzz clearly? Do you think that putting acoustic panels behind your set might help?

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post #7400 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by tpollagi View Post

Well, the front surface of the TV is basically just a big piece of glass so I guess you may just be hearing some other noise reflecting off the glass surface. Laptops can make some different noises from the fan and hard drive that you usually don't hear from a normal operating position. Maybe you just heard a reflected sound from the back or side of the laptop ???

it is not either of those 2. it definitely sounds like its coming from the back, upper middle area of the panel. but like i said, i notice no degradation in picture or anything form it and everything else is perfectly normal.
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post #7401 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 09:27 PM
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I would like to re-visit the topic of "rainbows" with this GT50. I believe that I saw a discussion n rainbows with the GT50 somewhere "back" but anyway, I have NEVER been able to see rainbows on any TV in the past (including the older DLP units that apparently were "rainbow machines.") Anyway, I should state that I have worsening visual problems over the years which might contribute...but I can really see rainbow effect on my unit, (at the bottom of the screen) when I avert my eyes somewhat. Lately it has been a real nuisance. I have owned plasma in the past and never experienced such...in fact, I sheepishly admit that I wondered about others imagining the very same that I am now seeing regularly.
My question is this: Is this TV built in a manner that would cause visual effect, i.e. "rainbows"? Again, I thought DLP, due to the "color wheel" technology caused the problem. Apparently that is just one aspect.

Comments? Other experiences with this ? Bummer !
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post #7402 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 09:50 PM
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Anyone using a Harmony remote with their GT50 and having issues with power on and power off? I'm having intermittent issues with my 60GT50 not powering up or powering down with my 688. I never had any issues like this with my older Panasonic plasma. I'm wondering if I need to change the setting for the 60GT50 so power on and power off are used instead power toggle.

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post #7403 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mac View Post

Anyone using a Harmony remote with their GT50 and having issues with power on and power off? I'm having intermittent issues with my 60GT50 not powering up or powering down with my 688. I never had any issues like this with my older Panasonic plasma. I'm wondering if I need to change the setting for the 60GT50 so power on and power off are used instead power toggle.

Bill

I have a Harmony One with my GT50 and have no issues, on my TV device screen has power on/off aswell as power toggle. I would go through the settings on your remote again.

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post #7404 of 9759 Old 03-06-2013, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

Good news! I must have an early one since I never had the Netflix button, I had no idea one existed. I'm interested in hearing what you think about it after a few days. I ran it on a HD channel with few logo appearance for about 24 hours to let it settle in some. I swear I saw an improvement after that and again after another week or two.

How far from the tv can you hear the buzz clearly? Do you think that putting acoustic panels behind your set might help?

I'm going to let it settle as well and see what happens. I also moved it around so it is no longer in front of the doors, I moved a bunch of stuff around and made some sacrifices with furniture placement and got it along a wall in that same room. Here are the pictures, ignore the messy desk, visible cords and the map that I haven't hung yet.

TVRoomWide_zps14461f9d.jpg

For reference, the windows in my place are all south facing (on the right). The closet the TV was previously in front of is on the left of that room (parallel to the window). The outline in the foreground is the frame for the accordion door which spans the entire width from windows to that edge, about 14 feet. That room extends another 5 feet to the left on the other side of that wall to the closet doors. The reason I was reluctant to do this in the first place was because of the limited space between the corner of the desk and corner of the couch, as seen here.

TVRoom_zps798d90d2.jpg

It is an 18 to 20 inch space between the edge of the couch and desk. Since it is just me and I generally don't have many people in and out of here, I figured the small space isn't a huge deal. I can walk through it just fine. If I had more people in and out of here, I'd rethink things.

In terms of spacing, the TV is currently about 10" from the wall, the back cushion of the couch is 8' from the TV and the TV stand itself is centered 17" between the edge of the desk and the shelf on the left. This isn't ideal, but it is as good as it is going to get in this place. I'll probably move the chair on the left back about half a foot. There is a coffee table that is meant to go in there, but it is a 52"x28" oval and I think it would get very tight so I'll probably roll with a side table to the left of the couch and two leather foot stools.

I could theoretically mount the TV on the wall now, but it is a shared wall with the condo next to mine and these walls do not handle vibration well (for example, I can hear my neighbors cell phone pulsing on a table against the wall while someone is trying to call him as I type this). Plus this isn't a permanent residence so I'd rather limit holes in the wall that I'd have to fix and repaint before I sell it, once I get somewhere more permanent, this thing is going on the wall for sure.

As for the buzzing, it is still audible at my 8 foot viewing distance on fully bright screens (the XBOX 360 load screen, some commercials, hockey, brightly lit basketball courts) but not really when the sound is on at a level I listen to. Now I was curious about the acoustics and decided I'd try an experiment and put two pillows behind the TV, just resting lightly against the back of the set so air can still flow. When I did that, any buzzing pretty much ceased, even on the brightest of screens. I could still hear a little with the TV muted, but that's to be expected. Even on a full white slide, the buzzing is not at an obnoxiously loud level.

Now I have two theories here.

1) The back panel itself is vibrating at a frequency loud enough for me to hear and reverberating off the hard wall. I have excellent hearing so that would make sense. It would also explain why the buzzing almost completely stops with something leaning against it.

OR

2) The buzzing is within the panel itself and is just reverberating off the walls and short ceiling and back to the viewing area. The ceiling in this room is just under 8'. The pillows behind the TV would then be deadening that sound before it can reverberate, resulting in a mostly quiet TV.

I'd be interested in hearing some other experiences with buzzing, specifically relating to distance from the wall, type of surface behind the TV and room dimensions. I don't really want to settle for the pillow behind the TV trick but I'm definitely not going to keep playing Amazon roulette either if the amount of buzz I'm getting is normal and I just happen to be more sensitive to it or the room is amplifying things.
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post #7405 of 9759 Old 03-07-2013, 03:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mac View Post

Anyone using a Harmony remote with their GT50 and having issues with power on and power off? I'm having intermittent issues with my 60GT50 not powering up or powering down with my 688. I never had any issues like this with my older Panasonic plasma. I'm wondering if I need to change the setting for the 60GT50 so power on and power off are used instead power toggle.

Bill
I use power toggle and have had no problems. Maybe if you delete the GT and add it again. If it is an intermittent issue that will be hard to diagnose. You could try changing the order that they are powered on and off too. GT first then 688 or vice versa.

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post #7406 of 9759 Old 03-07-2013, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by HuskerPower25 View Post

Well, the replacement for my last set came today. Same deliveryman, good guy. Took the old one down, put it in the box of the new one, got the new one all set up on the stand which he couldn't do last time because it wasn't ready. Couldn't turn it on because it was cold so I let it rest a couple hours.

It is an April 2012 build, so obviously one of the very early ones. The serial number does not have the "-2" that my November build had. The new remote does not have the Netflix button and the SD/USB button is in a different place. Doesn't really matter, any time I used the native Netflix app on the first version, it was horrible quality anyway. I'll just use the PS3/360 Netflix apps. I assume the remote is the only difference I'll see between an April and November build?

The software took about 10 minutes to update, I didn't have to do that the first time with the November build. Plugged it into the cable box, I still got some buzzing during regular content, but not near the level it was before and it's really only audible during all white commercials. I did notice that draping a towel over the back temporarily almost completely muffled the buzz, so I really am wondering if the acoustics of the room are amplifying the buzz. I'll give it a few days to see if I notice it in other situations but so far so good.

Interestingly enough, when I plugged HD's settings into this one, things seemed to pop even more than they did on the last set. The last one had some slightly dull reds, the reds now seem to be right on the money.

I wonder what the "-2" means......
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post #7407 of 9759 Old 03-07-2013, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jpl20 View Post

I'm in the same boat, only slight buzzing on a white screen with the soud off, no biggie, I did get a little spooked last night when the picture started jumping up & down a tiny amount, but I'm pretty sure it was the cable box due to bad weather, I put in a blu ray and the set was fine, put the cable box back on and it was still happening, but then just stopped..........if it was something to do with the setting on the cable box, then what are the correct settings when using an HDMI cable, in terms of; pic format, 1080, 720, auto fit, ect? This is a Scientific Atlanta high def box, from Cablevision, NY

Bump....cable settings?
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post #7408 of 9759 Old 03-07-2013, 04:28 AM
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Bump....cable settings?
Is it still jumping up and down? Most people use auto on their stb. If you dont have auto then use 1080.

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post #7409 of 9759 Old 03-07-2013, 04:58 AM
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Posted by Bill

Anyone using a Harmony remote with their GT50 and having issues with power on and power off? I'm having intermittent issues with my 60GT50 not powering up or powering down with my 688. I never had any issues like this with my older Panasonic plasma. I'm wondering if I need to change the setting for the 60GT50 so power on and power off are used instead power toggle.
 

Mine powers off and on fine but I have issues with the TV sub menus. When I press up down left or right, no matter how lightly I press the remote sends two commands. Very irritating when trying to change values by one increment.

I have even tried getting the commands from my original remote and no joy. I think there is some issue

with the way the harmony is reproducing the Panasonic IR commands. I own a Harmony One

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post #7410 of 9759 Old 03-07-2013, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Is it still jumping up and down? Most people use auto on their stb. If you dont have auto then use 1080.

No, it stopped on it's own,but it got me thinking, I just want to make sure that it's hooked up correctly, I read somewhere that format should be set to fixed so I switched it from dvi/hdmi to fixed, & pic format to 1080, also pic size to normal, would that be correct and any other setting I should look at?
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