Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 253 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #7561 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

If you can press on the back it reduces the buzz tightening the screws may work. The best way to tighten them is to loosen the screws while the tv is off (cold), turn the tv on and let it warm up, and then tighten the screws back down while its still warm.

If the buzzing is loud then there's a problem with a component inside (can't recall what exactly) and the tech would have to remove the back panel to check it. Darned buzzing Samsungs probably have all these techs thinking it's normal to be loud. It isn't. If you do a search on the Panasonic buzz and look for Randy's response you'll find more detailed information. It may even be on this thread. If not then the ST50.

Pushing on various parts of the back does nothing. One thing I hadn't noticed is how staggering the buzzing difference is if I'm a few inches away from the TV and the screen switches from a mostly white scene to a dark scene. On a dark scene I can't hear any buzz if I stick my ear right next to the back (I hear the fans a bit at this point).
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post #7562 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 02:30 AM
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I know this is the GT thread but I want to make a quick comment on avr.
I agree with billmac that you get what you pay for....most of the time. But doesnt that depend on what you want? It seems that a lot of people are willing to pay a lot more for an avr because of what type of room correction it has. I dont believe that these software programs are some type of "Holy Grail" to getting good sound. The consensus seems to be that the better the calibration software the better the avr. I disagree. Is there nothing more to expect from an avr than a good computer program that will set it up for you? None of the other features are worth anything? I understand that many of the "other features" that I speak of are shared by many avr but there are differences besides what room correction they have. I question just how great these software programs are anyway. I ran mine and then changed everything except the speaker distances. And I only kept those because they were accurate.
I can do a fine job of setting up my system without calibration software on my avr so that is not a priority for me when I purchase one.

And this comment is not meant for Bill Mac or Sheila or anyone else in particular. Just a thought.

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post #7563 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 04:09 AM
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No HTPC owners? Bummer.

Speaking of AVR's I'm picking this one up to replace my 705 which is 1.3a and doesn't support 3D.

http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-NR809-Certified-7-2-Channel-Receiver/dp/B00505F01E/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


Don't skimp on your AVR. IMO its the single most important piece to a home theater and bringing it all together.
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post #7564 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post


Where in the world do you live that doesn't offer HD programming? So all you watch is SD crappy content? Oh man that must really suck. I hope you have a bluray player,lol

I am Jamaican but I currently reside in Barbados. No Bluray player here :) I rely on a Realtek 1186 media player for my HD content. The only reason I even bother with Directv is for the up to the minute news for my wife otherwise I would never have bothered with the substandard feeds and equipment they send down here.

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post #7565 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 05:37 AM
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Hi,

my first post here...
i have the meadle east version of this tv: TH-P50GT50M, in this version the DDC is not enabled. is there any way to make it work like EU / US version, is it possible to load different version of firmware on my model in order to make the DDC work?
i have SpectraCal CalMAN 5 and i want to use Auto Cal in DDC mode.

thanks
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post #7566 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 06:10 AM
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My 'fox soccer' logo has faded a bit more, so pretty happy with that, although I want it gone - even though it is not viewable without obsession on normal viewing. smile.gif

Question: Since the logo is still there(on a red and yellow slides), if I were to watch 'fox soccer' again, does it have a better chance of getting worse because that logo was faintly there before? Should I wait for it to completely evaporate before I watch that channel again(I use zoom atm)

also when I am letting the tv run with fullscreen viewing for removing IR, do I want to raise the contrast and or brightness?

I have both of mine in the 40's for most of my viewing.

Does contrast and or brightness really increase IR chances?

B&W cm5
Pioneer Elite SC-27
Panasonic 50" GT50
HTPC - i5, ATI 7790
Crappy Klipsch sub
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post #7567 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ser_renely View Post

My 'fox soccer' logo has faded a bit more, so pretty happy with that, although I want it gone - even though it is not viewable without obsession on normal viewing. smile.gif

Question: Since the logo is still there(on a red and yellow slides), if I were to watch 'fox soccer' again, does it have a better chance of getting worse because that logo was faintly there before? Should I wait for it to completely evaporate before I watch that channel again(I use zoom atm)

also when I am letting the tv run with fullscreen viewing for removing IR, do I want to raise the contrast and or brightness?

I have both of mine in the 40's for most of my viewing.

Does contrast and or brightness really increase IR chances?

Throw the slides away and raise your brightness and contrast. If you are really concerned and want to feel proactive you can always turn on the orbiter and run the scroller whenever the feeling strikes you.

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post #7568 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ser_renely View Post

My 'fox soccer' logo has faded a bit more, so pretty happy with that, although I want it gone - even though it is not viewable without obsession on normal viewing. smile.gif

Question: Since the logo is still there(on a red and yellow slides), if I were to watch 'fox soccer' again, does it have a better chance of getting worse because that logo was faintly there before? Should I wait for it to completely evaporate before I watch that channel again(I use zoom atm)

also when I am letting the tv run with fullscreen viewing for removing IR, do I want to raise the contrast and or brightness?

I have both of mine in the 40's for most of my viewing.

Does contrast and or brightness really increase IR chances?

Here's a tip: when watching sports - or any material for that matter where a solid logo or info bar is present - toggle the HD SIZE in the ASPECT ADJUSTMENT menu. Most recommended settings use "Size 2" which is full pixel, but I have found on most channels and even BD content the actual image will be slightly smaller than the full pixel area of the screen. In other words, when I switch to "Size 2" I'll notice a sliver of black screen appear in the corners between the bezel and the content on the screen. I leave all my inputs and picture modes on "Size 1" by default which is a 95% scan of the image - it ensures content is being displayed on the entire screen (all 1920x1080 pixels on the TV). Otherwise if you left it on "Size 2" all the time you'd have a slim area of pixels along the outer edges of the screen that rarely display content and are mostly displaying black (no different than black bars above/below a 2.35:1 film). Obviously this isn't good b/c those pixels aren't aging/working at the same rate as all the others.

Anyways, my point is when you watch soccer and toggle between "Size 1" and "Size 2" you will see the location of the logo shift, and I'll argue quite a lot. On the one hand you will now be IR'ing the logo in a different spot on the screen but at least it will be for less time than having the logo in the exact same spot. I do this toggling all the time for hockey - it will also shift the location of the score and stats bars as well. I'll watch a period of hockey in one size then switch it up for the 2nd, then back to the original for the 3rd. You could try doing that for halves in soccer or simply every 20min, etc.

I must say my GT50, although still relatively young (I'd be surprised if I had anywhere near 100 hours on it) does not reveal IR at all. I've caught glimpses of IR for a few seconds when activating the scrolling white bar but after a few passes they are gone - and the IR I do see is usually "Menu" in the top left b/c I'm in there so much :P Now if I were to start looking at coloured slides who knows I could very well start picking up some IR, but I've never bothered. I think if people can't notice IR when viewing normal content it is a non issue, even if it comes up on certain slides. I'm glad I never got into running slides b/c I'd probably be driving myself crazy.
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post #7569 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I know this is the GT thread but I want to make a quick comment on avr.
I agree with billmac that you get what you pay for....most of the time. But doesnt that depend on what you want? It seems that a lot of people are willing to pay a lot more for an avr because of what type of room correction it has. I dont believe that these software programs are some type of "Holy Grail" to getting good sound. The consensus seems to be that the better the calibration software the better the avr. I disagree. Is there nothing more to expect from an avr than a good computer program that will set it up for you? None of the other features are worth anything? I understand that many of the "other features" that I speak of are shared by many avr but there are differences besides what room correction they have. I question just how great these software programs are anyway. I ran mine and then changed everything except the speaker distances. And I only kept those because they were accurate.
I can do a fine job of setting up my system without calibration software on my avr so that is not a priority for me when I purchase one.

And this comment is not meant for Bill Mac or Sheila or anyone else in particular. Just a thought.
Bingo smile.gif
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post #7570 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by BDP33 View Post

No HTPC owners? Bummer.

Speaking of AVR's I'm picking this one up to replace my 705 which is 1.3a and doesn't support 3D.

http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-NR809-Certified-7-2-Channel-Receiver/dp/B00505F01E/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


Don't skimp on your AVR. IMO its the single most important piece to a home theater and bringing it all together.
?

I'm using a HTPC. Always have and love it. Why?
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post #7571 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I know this is the GT thread but I want to make a quick comment on avr.
I agree with billmac that you get what you pay for....most of the time. But doesnt that depend on what you want? It seems that a lot of people are willing to pay a lot more for an avr because of what type of room correction it has. I dont believe that these software programs are some type of "Holy Grail" to getting good sound. The consensus seems to be that the better the calibration software the better the avr. I disagree. Is there nothing more to expect from an avr than a good computer program that will set it up for you? None of the other features are worth anything? I understand that many of the "other features" that I speak of are shared by many avr but there are differences besides what room correction they have. I question just how great these software programs are anyway. I ran mine and then changed everything except the speaker distances. And I only kept those because they were accurate.
I can do a fine job of setting up my system without calibration software on my avr so that is not a priority for me when I purchase one.

And this comment is not meant for Bill Mac or Sheila or anyone else in particular. Just a thought.

I think it depends on which room correction software you're referring to. Some are much better than others.

For example, I went from an AVR that had Audyssey 2EQ to one that had their top of the line XT32 and the difference in sound quality to me was well worth the difference in what I paid. Just for that feature alone - especially for what it did for my subwoofer. Of course I got a lot of other higher quality features as well with the upgrade, including more power to fill my larger room better.

Again, it depends on what features of an AVR are important to you. I used to be happy with a cheaper AVR until I took the time to do the research and know what I could have for a little more money. It's not as much about price as it is about the features, but at certain really low price points you're just not going to get the features, or if you do they will be a watered down version of them (like 2EQ that doesn't even equalize the sub). If you're OK with that, that's great, but if you're not, then it's not a waste of money to get a little higher model.

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post #7572 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

?

I'm using a HTPC. Always have and love it. Why?

A few pages back I asked about settings using the Intel graphics. I didn't get any replies, the conversation turned to dithering then AVR's...lol. Anyways, I was curious to what others were setting their refresh rates to. I was trying to make things as smooth as possible for blu-ray etc.

What are your settings? Are you using the intel graphics or custom card?
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post #7573 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BDP33 View Post

A few pages back I asked about settings using the Intel graphics. I didn't get any replies, the conversation turned to dithering then AVR's...lol. Anyways, I was curious to what others were setting their refresh rates to. I was trying to make things as smooth as possible for blu-ray etc.

What are your settings? Are you using the intel graphics or custom card?

Currently using Intel until my GPU comes in next week. What do you use to watch your videos? I find its more of a program issue vs Intel graphic settings. I'm pretty positive my settings are default. You getting a lot of jittery movement? What specs are you running?
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post #7574 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by KK in CT View Post

I think it depends on which room correction software you're referring to. Some are much better than others.

For example, I went from an AVR that had Audyssey 2EQ to one that had their top of the line XT32 and the difference in sound quality to me was well worth the difference in what I paid. Just for that feature alone - especially for what it did for my subwoofer. Of course I got a lot of other higher quality features as well with the upgrade, including more power to fill my larger room better.

Again, it depends on what features of an AVR are important to you. I used to be happy with a cheaper AVR until I took the time to do the research and know what I could have for a little more money. It's not as much about price as it is about the features, but at certain really low price points you're just not going to get the features, or if you do they will be a watered down version of them (like 2EQ that doesn't even equalize the sub). If you're OK with that, that's great, but if you're not, then it's not a waste of money to get a little higher model.
I was referring to ALL room correction software that is built into the avr. That was really the point. It is not necessary.

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post #7575 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 09:03 AM
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It's safer having this avr discussion here on the Plasma forum. It might be much more interesting if it were on the Receivers Forum. wink.gif

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post #7576 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 09:07 AM
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I have nothing else to say on the subject here. I think I have more than made my point. Right or wrong. Apologies to all who it may have inconvenienced. smile.gif

No, Mr. Bond. I expect you to die!
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post #7577 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I have nothing else to say on the subject here. I think I have more than made my point. Right or wrong. Apologies to all who it may have inconvenienced. smile.gif

That wasn't my point. smile.gif

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post #7578 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 09:29 AM
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That wasn't my point. smile.gif
OK. I thought you were being subtle in saying "watch out guys". smile.gif
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post #7579 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

The picture on the right is what bad dithering looks like:

http://avforum.no/forum/tv-apparater/102931-samsung-2010-plasma-modeller-43.html

Dithering??? What dithering? I got a bit distracted there on "closely observing" those photos I suppose !tongue.gif
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post #7580 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 09:42 AM
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The only way how to fix dither noise is Custom+pb=low or Thx Cinema+HDMI=Photo or Game(The Best mode after Cinema)+HDMI=Photo or if u needs a calibration Custom+PB=Mid+Hdmi=Photo, but the Game as brighter and quality of grey steps much better then Custom+PB=mid
Now i got a i1 display 2 to readjust SM settings but i get my factory from SD)) them i didnt broke))
Besides i need to re-adjust VDA voltage for the my USA tv after upgrade i can measure this myself but i didnt know the factory set)) also if some one can make a photo of his Power supply its help me too))
thx
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post #7581 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

It's safer having this avr discussion here on the Plasma forum. It might be much more interesting if it were on the Receivers Forum. wink.gif

Several of you gents (and ladies I'm sure) keep it interesting around this thread. A bit of off topic banter keeps it alive. I agree however discussions in the AVR forums on the benefits or plus and minuses or "better" option etc gets pretty heated. biggrin.gif

I'm like 007, Yamaha guy yet I did not buy it for YPAO - i like their DSP options and 11.2 3D surround. I've had the big three as I would call it: Pioneer, Denon, and Yamaha. Helped friends with those and several other brands etc. Never had the latest Audyssey but regardless always liked setting things up myself. I do utilize them as a tool and comparison but tend to change things afterwards. As I would say, it's all good.

As for the GT50, I wish it had "speaker out", as in powered not just low level etc.. That's the one thing that my instal has me desiring.

Cheers

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post #7582 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 10:18 AM
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Has anyone stuck acoustic foam or similar behind their set? I just ordered some to see if it will make much difference for my buzzing GT50.
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post #7583 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I was referring to ALL room correction software that is built into the avr. That was really the point. It is not necessary.

Perhaps if you have already extensively acoustically treated your room and/or you don't want to correct for anything that the basic EQ adjustments in the AVR allow for. Or unless you have another program outside of your AVR like REW. Again, it depends on which software, as some only do the basics and some do much more than what you can do manually. Plus some people just don't like a flatter curve, maybe because they aren't used to it. But there are definitely award winning sound mixers in the film industry on this site who would argue room correction, in most every room, is necessary if you want to hear the audio track the way they intended it to be heard and the way they heard it when they mixed it.
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post #7584 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Currently using Intel until my GPU comes in next week. What do you use to watch your videos? I find its more of a program issue vs Intel graphic settings. I'm pretty positive my settings are default. You getting a lot of jittery movement? What specs are you running?

I'm using Arcsoft Total Media 5. It doesn't have much in refresh rate settings and primarily has only picture controls. I have my intel graphics set to 60hz and it's a little jittery. You can go custom on refresh rates so I was curious if anyone had any success with a different refresh rate.
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post #7585 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 10:41 AM
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Just for the record. I never said that room correction was not necessary to get the best sound from any given room. My comments were about built in avr room correction software and I thought I made that very clear. If there are any doubts please reread my posts.

No, Mr. Bond. I expect you to die!
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post #7586 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP33 View Post

I'm using Arcsoft Total Media 5. It doesn't have much in refresh rate settings and primarily has only picture controls. I have my intel graphics set to 60hz and it's a little jittery. You can go custom on refresh rates so I was curious if anyone had any success with a different refresh rate.
I would suggest putting a cheap Nvidia GPU in there for your movies maybe a GTX 640 or 50 I'm only currently using Intel graphics because I'm in between graphics cards right now.

But I do have it set to 60Hz. I tend to use VLC for pretty much everything.
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post #7587 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Just for the record. I never said that room correction was not necessary to get the best sound from any given room. My comments were about built in avr room correction software and I thought I made that very clear. If there are any doubts please reread my posts.

I understood that. I guess as long as the user has another way to get their whole system to produce a relatively flat curve without the help of software in the AVR they wouldn't need it. I would imagine most users do not. In my case, I have the WAF to consider, so I can't put acoustic panels all over my great room. So I'm stuck taking care of the phase/reflection/other issues with room correction software. Too many reflective surfaces/high ceilings in my room to deal with.biggrin.gif..

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post #7588 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

I would suggest putting a cheap Nvidia GPU in there for your movies maybe a GTX 640 or 50 I'm only currently using Intel graphics because I'm in between graphics cards right now.

But I do have it set to 60Hz. I tend to use VLC for pretty much everything.

I may try that eventually. I don't think the on board can process 24p effectively either. As far as cards go I'd probably look into AMD since they have the ability to pass HD audio through HDMI. I haven't checked in awhile but I don' t think Nvidia's do that yet.
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post #7589 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BDP33 View Post

I may try that eventually. I don't think the on board can process 24p effectively either. As far as cards go I'd probably look into AMD since they have the ability to pass HD audio through HDMI. I haven't checked in awhile but I don' t think Nvidia's do that yet.
nvidia do this since gtx4XX
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post #7590 of 9850 Old 03-08-2013, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Practolog View Post

nvidia do this since gtx4XX

Good to know. It's been awhile since I've kept up on it. That makes things much easier when shopping.
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