Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 307 - AVS Forum
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post #9181 of 9787 Old 07-09-2013, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by skyrunner777 View Post



I've searched this and other treads but couldn't find an exact situation so apologies if this is has been addressed already. I purchased a GT60 in early January 2013 ... what are the right words to describe this irregularity?

Thanks.

I think you mean a GT50; I don't think there is a GT60 (at least not in the US). Anyway, have not seen anything like that reported here. The reports of image retention are usually from station logo's or the side bars from 4:3 content. When people get IR they are usually advised to do two things. One, stop doing whatever it was that caused the IR. Two, watch full screen content until it fades away. There are also a handful of other things to try but I've not seen any indication they work any better than viewing full screen content.

If you call Panasonic DON'T make any mention of burn-in or image-retention. Refer to the issue as a "screen irregularity" or "non uniformity". There isn't much you can do if a tech shows up and classifies the issue as burn-in, but you certainly don't want to start out by telling them that it is.
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post #9182 of 9787 Old 07-09-2013, 10:43 PM
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Thanks for the tips. You're right, I meant to say I have a GT50, that is 60inch. In terms of the cause of the IR, that is what confuses me. I can understand if it was a logo or the sidebars, but due to close captions? If it was one big box or even letters but small sure, but little boxes all lined up neatly at the bottom? I can't make heads or tails of it. Maybe its not due to CC at all and just a panel defect. Either way, I'll watch full content for a week or so and if it doesn't clear up, I'll contact Panasonic.
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post #9183 of 9787 Old 07-10-2013, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by skyrunner777 View Post

Either way, I'll watch full content for a week or so and if it doesn't clear up, I'll contact Panasonic.

Yea, that is kinda strange. Not to much activity here in the GT50 thread since the 2013 models came out. A few months ago, you would have had 3 pages of replies and a few of them may have been useful smile.gif Even though you have a GT50, you might want to toss your question into the ST60 forum to try to catch some of the extra traffic.
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post #9184 of 9787 Old 07-11-2013, 01:35 PM
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Just had the tech come out, and he says the A board needs to be replaced. He doesn't have it so he has to order it. I was kind of hoping he would be able to fix it right now but oh well. He says that if anything like this happens they always have to replace the whole board, they can't just replace certain components anymore (like the subwoofer). Is the subwoofer part of the main board? I asked him how long it takes and he said 3 to 4 days, which doesn't sound too bad (I was afraid it would be 3 to 4 weeks).
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post #9185 of 9787 Old 07-11-2013, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ssetta View Post

Just had the tech come out, and he says the A board needs to be replaced. He doesn't have it so he has to order it. I was kind of hoping he would be able to fix it right now but oh well. He says that if anything like this happens they always have to replace the whole board, they can't just replace certain components anymore (like the subwoofer). Is the subwoofer part of the main board? I asked him how long it takes and he said 3 to 4 days, which doesn't sound too bad (I was afraid it would be 3 to 4 weeks).

On some things, it's actually cheaper to replace the whole board than to fix the bad component.

I'm not sure if the subwoofer components are on that board. It does make sense to put all audio on a single board, though.

With dual subs, stack'em in the corner and put on a jockstrap. Don't want EVERYTHING in the room jingling!
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post #9186 of 9787 Old 07-11-2013, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ssetta View Post

Just had the tech come out, and he says the A board needs to be replaced. He doesn't have it so he has to order it. I was kind of hoping he would be able to fix it right now but oh well. He says that if anything like this happens they always have to replace the whole board, they can't just replace certain components anymore (like the subwoofer). Is the subwoofer part of the main board? I asked him how long it takes and he said 3 to 4 days, which doesn't sound too bad (I was afraid it would be 3 to 4 weeks).

When my GT30 had an issue they had to send someone out. There are no official Panasonic techs in my area, so a local repair crew was sent. These two looked and smelled like chain smoking, alcoholic members of a 70's biker gang. They handled my 65" GT30 as gently as you would expect based on my description of them. They replaced the A board and it didn't fix my particular problem. (I told both Panasonic and this repair company that it wouldn't fix the issue but that appears to always be the first step) So, they took it with them and ordered a new panel that nearly cost more than the TV. It even had to be imported, as it was out of stock. I was without my GT30 for about two months due to a shipment/U.S. Customs issue. Finally, they agreed to just give me a new TV. By then the GT50's were out and that's what they sent me.
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post #9187 of 9787 Old 07-14-2013, 03:13 AM
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I just scheduled an appt with panasonic about my IR problems.. I would turn the tv on and then see the viera symbol stay on for about 10 minutes or so. But what i realized is this" When i keep the tv on "Custom" mode.. and turn it on,, there is no IR.. But when i turn the tv on when its set to "standard" mode, there is bad IR for several minutes.. Anyone experience this?

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post #9188 of 9787 Old 07-14-2013, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony1 View Post

I just scheduled an appt with panasonic about my IR problems.. I would turn the tv on and then see the viera symbol stay on for about 10 minutes or so. But what i realized is this" When i keep the tv on "Custom" mode.. and turn it on,, there is no IR.. But when i turn the tv on when its set to "standard" mode, there is bad IR for several minutes.. Anyone experience this?

I'm not sure why you'd ever have it in any picture mode but Custom or the THX modes.
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post #9189 of 9787 Old 07-14-2013, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony1 View Post

I just scheduled an appt with panasonic about my IR problems.. I would turn the tv on and then see the viera symbol stay on for about 10 minutes or so. But what i realized is this" When i keep the tv on "Custom" mode.. and turn it on,, there is no IR.. But when i turn the tv on when its set to "standard" mode, there is bad IR for several minutes.. Anyone experience this?

No, have not experienced this but as HDMaster suggests I have not used the standard mode since the set was initially powered on. I have often wondered about some of the non-adjustable settings probably buried in the service menus or low-level panel driver programming that control items like the pre-discharge level. If a certain mode just doesn't run the panel "hot enough" to allow the plasma cells to be maintained at a uniform level then I can see that non-uniformities in the panel could result. If the levels before and after that Viera pulse are too high or too low or too something it may be causing IR. Yea, more insane ramblings in a forgotten forum smile.gif

Anyway, if standard is causing IR then don't use it. Custom looks much nicer. I've been using HDMaster's extended red set up in the Custom mode for quite a while. I don't think I have tweaked anything in 6 months.
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post #9190 of 9787 Old 07-14-2013, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony1 View Post

I just scheduled an appt with panasonic about my IR problems.. I would turn the tv on and then see the viera symbol stay on for about 10 minutes or so. But what i realized is this" When i keep the tv on "Custom" mode.. and turn it on,, there is no IR.. But when i turn the tv on when its set to "standard" mode, there is bad IR for several minutes.. Anyone experience this?

Like others have said, I don't know why you would use standard mode. And No , I never experienced any IR from Viera symbol. Even if I try it in all modes.

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post #9191 of 9787 Old 07-15-2013, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

When my GT30 had an issue they had to send someone out. There are no official Panasonic techs in my area, so a local repair crew was sent. These two looked and smelled like chain smoking, alcoholic members of a 70's biker gang. They handled my 65" GT30 as gently as you would expect based on my description of them. They replaced the A board and it didn't fix my particular problem. (I told both Panasonic and this repair company that it wouldn't fix the issue but that appears to always be the first step) So, they took it with them and ordered a new panel that nearly cost more than the TV. It even had to be imported, as it was out of stock. I was without my GT30 for about two months due to a shipment/U.S. Customs issue. Finally, they agreed to just give me a new TV. By then the GT50's were out and that's what they sent me.

Sound like a drag of an experience but it looks as if you wound up with a much better deal for it. Not sure if I like your reference to the 2 repair guys...since I am a chain smoking alcoholic greasy biker.

Just kidding, lol. I couldn't resist. wink.gif
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Like others have said, I don't know why you would use standard mode. And No , I never experienced any IR from Viera symbol. Even if I try it in all modes.

I certainly am not as experience or knowledgable as most here but I have always used standard mode as well as HD Masters custom settings. I only use standard mode for gaming as I am afraid of IR when gaming. Score boards and such being static. When I am done I always go back to custom. Not sure if what I am doing is correct but I have no issues with my GT50. I only wish I was a better gamer.....I hate laggers, lol!
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post #9192 of 9787 Old 07-16-2013, 09:23 AM
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Hello Everyone! Question: I was planning on buying a bluetooth headset for the TV. However, I already own a pair of really good wired headphones. I really didn't want to buy another pair of headphones but sometimes need it at night. However, I was thinking about that roku set where you can plug your headphones to the remote. Great idea!

Now I thought, I always wanted to buy a pair of portable bluetooth speakers for my backyard or to the beach. Most portable bluetooth speakers have a 3.5mm audio jack. Now is it possible to sync my GT50 to this bluetooth speaker... then connect my already owned headphone jack??? This would be my wireless solution!

Please help before I purchase too many things! smile.gif

Thank you,
J
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post #9193 of 9787 Old 07-16-2013, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by redbulluci View Post

Hello Everyone! Question: I was planning on buying a bluetooth headset for the TV. However, I already own a pair of really good wired headphones. I really didn't want to buy another pair of headphones but sometimes need it at night. However, I was thinking about that roku set where you can plug your headphones to the remote. Great idea!

Now I thought, I always wanted to buy a pair of portable bluetooth speakers for my backyard or to the beach. Most portable bluetooth speakers have a 3.5mm audio jack. Now is it possible to sync my GT50 to this bluetooth speaker... then connect my already owned headphone jack??? This would be my wireless solution!

Please help before I purchase too many things! smile.gif

Thank you,
J

That is a really good question, my wife got me a real nice wireless set of headphones for last Christmas and I'm totally happy with them. Now back to the question, couldn't you just get a long set of phono headphones cable and plug it in your receiver? I never heard of the roku where you can plug headphones to remote. I also have some Bluetooth portable speakers but I don't think you can sync it to the tv and connect it to the headphones. I would try for you if I could but mine are wireless, maybe someone can chime in. Also even if that worked, you would have to have the Bluetooth speakers pluged in by where you are sitting, you are probably better off with getting wireless ones, that way you can walk all over the house and still use them.

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post #9194 of 9787 Old 07-16-2013, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by redbulluci View Post

Hello Everyone! Question: I was planning on buying a bluetooth headset for the TV. However, I already own a pair of really good wired headphones. I really didn't want to buy another pair of headphones but sometimes need it at night. However, I was thinking about that roku set where you can plug your headphones to the remote. Great idea!

Now I thought, I always wanted to buy a pair of portable bluetooth speakers for my backyard or to the beach. Most portable bluetooth speakers have a 3.5mm audio jack. Now is it possible to sync my GT50 to this bluetooth speaker... then connect my already owned headphone jack??? This would be my wireless solution!

Please help before I purchase too many things! smile.gif

Thank you,
J

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Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post

That is a really good question, my wife got me a real nice wireless set of headphones for last Christmas and I'm totally happy with them. Now back to the question, couldn't you just get a long set of phono headphones cable and plug it in your receiver? I never heard of the roku where you can plug headphones to remote. I also have some Bluetooth portable speakers but I don't think you can sync it to the tv and connect it to the headphones. I would try for you if I could but mine are wireless, maybe someone can chime in. Also even if that worked, you would have to have the Bluetooth speakers pluged in by where you are sitting, you are probably better off with getting wireless ones, that way you can walk all over the house and still use them.

I have no idea about doing exactly what is being suggested but the Bluetooth unit in my GT works perfectly with my Logitech Bluetooth music adapter. The Logitech uses a very ordinary chipset that is probably used in most other Bluetooth audio devices as well. You shouldn't have any trouble pairing the GT with whatever audio device you may have.
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post #9195 of 9787 Old 07-17-2013, 01:26 AM
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Good day,

I have a question about the 48 hz setting and flickering. I am aware this has been discussed already so I am not asking if this is a problem that can be fixed. Recently, however, I decided to watch a 24p Bluray with 48 hz turned on. Other than the flicker, I really enjoyed this setting. Once I decided to ignore the flickering the movie seemed better than before. The panning was nicer to watch and overall there is this indescribable better sense of a cinematic experience. The only real annoyance is the flickering in white portions of the screen, like the sky, or a window. Has anyone found any picture settings that would help mask, if not reduce how noticeable it is? Would reducing the contrast help make the flickering less noticeable? Thank you very much.
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post #9196 of 9787 Old 07-17-2013, 12:31 PM
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thanks for both your suggestions! i'll start with the bluetooth speaker first. if not, i'll go with the wireless option.

fyi: roku3 specs and its wireless headphones: http://www.mrgco.com/blog/the-roku-3-remote-the-switch-from-bluetooth-to-wi-fi-is-significant/
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post #9197 of 9787 Old 07-17-2013, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by walshfever View Post

Good day,

I have a question about the 48 hz setting and flickering. I am aware this has been discussed already so I am not asking if this is a problem that can be fixed. Recently, however, I decided to watch a 24p Bluray with 48 hz turned on. Other than the flicker, I really enjoyed this setting. Once I decided to ignore the flickering the movie seemed better than before. The panning was nicer to watch and overall there is this indescribable better sense of a cinematic experience. The only real annoyance is the flickering in white portions of the screen, like the sky, or a window. Has anyone found any picture settings that would help mask, if not reduce how noticeable it is? Would reducing the contrast help make the flickering less noticeable? Thank you very much.

Yes lowering the contrast / brightness will diminish the flicker but it will also crap up the brightness and contrat smile.gif Its kinda a catch 22 that you can't win. To me the mode is pretty useless for any non 3D content. It looks more cinematic because it bypasses all the scaling like a film theater but unlike a film projector that has a lightbulb with a constant output, plasma displays are pulsed at the the refresh rate. Pulse type displays create flicker below 72 Hz.

I can see see some flicker even at the normal 60 Hz mode. The 48 Hz mode is just unbearable for me and most others as well.

You can always hope your next set will have a dependable 96 Hz mode or your next disk player will have a better deinterlacer smile.gif
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post #9198 of 9787 Old 07-17-2013, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tpollagi View Post

Yes lowering the contrast / brightness will diminish the flicker but it will also crap up the brightness and contrat smile.gif Its kinda a catch 22 that you can't win. To me the mode is pretty useless for any non 3D content. It looks more cinematic because it bypasses all the scaling like a film theater but unlike a film projector that has a lightbulb with a constant output, plasma displays are pulsed at the the refresh rate. Pulse type displays create flicker below 72 Hz.

I can see see some flicker even at the normal 60 Hz mode. The 48 Hz mode is just unbearable for me and most others as well.

You can always hope your next set will have a dependable 96 Hz mode or your next disk player will have a better deinterlacer smile.gif

Thank you for your reply. I tried watching the end of Inception where they are in a snowy environment and it hurt my head. I don’t think I will be able to tolerate that. However, I was playing with my Blu-ray players 2D to 3D settings and I came across something weird. Forgive me if this has already been mentioned but on my panny BD-210, I chose 2D to 3D. It placed the GT50 in 3D mode with every picture setting having a (3D) next to it without actually showing the blurred lines. I was then able to set the picture to Custom and turn on 48 Hz. There was zero flicker with 48 Hz turned on. Also, when I paused the movie, the info box no longer said 24p like it usually does. Am I being tricked somehow? It looks good in the limited viewing that I did. Is the 3D conversation sending a duplicate image and that is somehow letting the 48 Hz be flicker free? Or, is the TV just lying to me? Thank you again for your response.
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post #9199 of 9787 Old 07-17-2013, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by walshfever View Post

Thank you for your reply. I tried watching the end of Inception where they are in a snowy environment and it hurt my head. I don’t think I will be able to tolerate that. However, I was playing with my Blu-ray players 2D to 3D settings and I came across something weird. Forgive me if this has already been mentioned but on my panny BD-210, I chose 2D to 3D. It placed the GT50 in 3D mode with every picture setting having a (3D) next to it without actually showing the blurred lines. I was then able to set the picture to Custom and turn on 48 Hz. There was zero flicker with 48 Hz turned on. Also, when I paused the movie, the info box no longer said 24p like it usually does. Am I being tricked somehow? It looks good in the limited viewing that I did. Is the 3D conversation sending a duplicate image and that is somehow letting the 48 Hz be flicker free? Or, is the TV just lying to me? Thank you again for your response.

Try watching a whole movie and report back if you noticed any difference.

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post #9200 of 9787 Old 07-17-2013, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by walshfever View Post

Thank you for your reply. I tried watching the end of Inception where they are in a snowy environment and it hurt my head. I don’t think I will be able to tolerate that. However, I was playing with my Blu-ray players 2D to 3D settings and I came across something weird. Forgive me if this has already been mentioned but on my panny BD-210, I chose 2D to 3D. It placed the GT50 in 3D mode with every picture setting having a (3D) next to it without actually showing the blurred lines. I was then able to set the picture to Custom and turn on 48 Hz. There was zero flicker with 48 Hz turned on. Also, when I paused the movie, the info box no longer said 24p like it usually does. Am I being tricked somehow? It looks good in the limited viewing that I did. Is the 3D conversation sending a duplicate image and that is somehow letting the 48 Hz be flicker free? Or, is the TV just lying to me? Thank you again for your response.

I don't remember the details of the 3D display specs. but for some reason I think the display actually doubles the refresh rate for each left and right 1/2 image so that the entire 3D image is displayed at the "normal" refresh rate. So if my ramblings are correct then I guess you may in effect be running at 96 Hz. I haven't played around much with the 3D on my set so take my musing for what it's worth.

I do know that others in this forum have also indicated that the 48 Hz mode can only really be used for 3D content because of the excessive flicker in 2D mode. This certainly is worth sorting out.
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post #9201 of 9787 Old 07-17-2013, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tpollagi View Post

I don't remember the details of the 3D display specs. but for some reason I think the display actually doubles the refresh rate for each left and right 1/2 image so that the entire 3D image is displayed at the "normal" refresh rate. So if my ramblings are correct then I guess you may in effect be running at 96 Hz. I haven't played around much with the 3D on my set so take my musing for what it's worth.

I do know that others in this forum have also indicated that the 48 Hz mode can only really be used for 3D content because of the excessive flicker in 2D mode. This certainly is worth sorting out.

That makes sense. I am going to do some more research. I am also going to find some movie scenes that will help me determine if I am looking at 3:2 pull-down still or an actual 24p multiplier of some kind. I mean, it looked good, but that was just a limited sampling. I tried this before I left in a moment of inspiration...LOL. Once I have a chance to watch some panning scenes and do some research I will report back. Either way, I still love this TV. Thanks for the help.
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post #9202 of 9787 Old 07-17-2013, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by walshfever View Post

I chose 2D to 3D. It placed the GT50 in 3D mode with every picture setting having a (3D) next to it without actually showing the blurred lines. I was then able to set the picture to Custom and turn on 48 Hz. There was zero flicker with 48 Hz turned on. Also, when I paused the movie, the info box no longer said 24p like it usually does. Am I being tricked somehow? It looks good in the limited viewing that I did. Is the 3D conversation sending a duplicate image and that is somehow letting the 48 Hz be flicker free? Or, is the TV just lying to me? Thank you again for your response.
Yes in 3D mode the TV is displaying frames at twice the 2D rate since it displaying a left eye image followed by a right eye image one after the other and the 3D glasses shutters block one eye or the other in sequence. So in 3D you notice less flicker effect in 48HZ mode since its actually like 96Hz in that case.
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post #9203 of 9787 Old 07-19-2013, 01:09 AM
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Yes in 3D mode the TV is displaying frames at twice the 2D rate since it displaying a left eye image followed by a right eye image one after the other and the 3D glasses shutters block one eye or the other in sequence. So in 3D you notice less flicker effect in 48HZ mode since its actually like 96Hz in that case.

Thank you for the reply. I took some time and watched a movie and I could not help but feel that there was something off. It seemed as though there was a slight twitch every now and then. Unfortunately I was unable to determine whether the twitches were supposed to be there or not. When I turned off 3D and just had 24p with 48HZ the flicker was distracting enough. After doing some reading, as far as I can understand it, the Blu-ray player uses Frame Packing to send the signal in 2d to 3D mode. It is not a clean duplicate image, it is actually a stacked frame that is sent at 1920x2205/24p. It is basically the frame vertically atop the other one. I wonder if this is the reason I noticed a slight twitch. Do you think my assumption is correct? I am going to keep playing with it. I still have not found a good scene to test it with. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thank you.


Frame Packing Article: http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20063310-1/how-3d-content-works-blu-ray-vs-broadcast/
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post #9204 of 9787 Old 07-19-2013, 09:09 AM
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Well I just want to say the repair man is still waiting for the part to arrive and I'm beginning to lose my patience. I think he ordered it on Friday and he said it usually takes 3 or 4 days. I called him yesterday he said he was gonna try and get a tracking number and forward it to me, but he never actually did. I'm getting worried.
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post #9205 of 9787 Old 07-19-2013, 09:36 AM
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Panny Corp for North America is based out of Secaucus, NJ, so ground shipment to MA from NJ is 1-2 days at most., so yeah, if the part is in stock, if your repair center ordered it right away and IF it was shipped right away, then parts should be there within 3-4 days but if the service place is busy, it would take them 7-10 days to even schedule a new service call and with summer time and vacations, many service companies are running short staffed, so I would not worry until at least 7-10 work days pass.

It sucks to wait but that's just the reality on leisure product repairs.

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post #9206 of 9787 Old 07-19-2013, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroMike View Post

Panny Corp for North America is based out of Secaucus, NJ, so ground shipment to MA from NJ is 1-2 days at most., so yeah, if the part is in stock, if your repair center ordered it right away and IF it was shipped right away, then parts should be there within 3-4 days but if the service place is busy, it would take them 7-10 days to even schedule a new service call and with summer time and vacations, many service companies are running short staffed, so I would not worry until at least 7-10 work days pass.

It sucks to wait but that's just the reality on leisure product repairs.
That is where their NA corporate headquarters is, yes. Parts and equipment can ship from many different places however.
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post #9207 of 9787 Old 07-19-2013, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

That is where their NA corporate headquarters is, yes. Parts and equipment can ship from many different places however.

You are correct, it's just that the NA Corp location is about 5 miles from my office and they have a pretty good size parts warehouse there, so unless they are out of stock, it should be the shipping origin!

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Well, watched more material with 2D to 3D enabled and 48HZ turned on. It seems as though 3:2 pull-down is still engaged somehow. Watching the camera pan over the building in Transformers Dark of the Moon when they jump out showed some judder in the window frames. The window frames twitched and shimmed. When I turned off 3D and just used 24p into 60HZ i saw the same judder. The only problem I have is whether or not that is 3:2 pull-down judder or an artifact from the source material. I am not experienced enough to know when I truly am seeing 3:2 judder. While the set up I tried looks good, if it still has 3:2 pull-down it is not really worth it.
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post #9209 of 9787 Old 07-19-2013, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walshfever View Post

Well, watched more material with 2D to 3D enabled and 48HZ turned on. It seems as though 3:2 pull-down is still engaged somehow. Watching the camera pan over the building in Transformers Dark of the Moon when they jump out showed some judder in the window frames. The window frames twitched and shimmed. When I turned off 3D and just used 24p into 60HZ i saw the same judder. The only problem I have is whether or not that is 3:2 pull-down judder or an artifact from the source material. I am not experienced enough to know when I truly am seeing 3:2 judder. While the set up I tried looks good, if it still has 3:2 pull-down it is not really worth it.
2D to 3D? Do you have any native 3D Blu-ray's?
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post #9210 of 9787 Old 07-19-2013, 07:34 PM
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Very excited to get a 65 when they come out--it was tough sitting out last year 12.gif
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