Official Panasonic GT50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 310 - AVS Forum
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post #9271 of 9767 Old 08-03-2013, 01:02 AM
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I had buzzing when pedestal mounted. once I mounted it on the wall it completely disappeared. not a hint of it anymore. this leads me to believe something must have been or is loose inside the TV, once it is mounted it put pressure or change pressure wherever the loose item is.

having an ISF calibration done wednesday night, cant wait.

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post #9272 of 9767 Old 08-03-2013, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Menu > Setup > ECO/energy saving > No activity for 3 hours...Stay On

Thanks Bond! I'll check that setting out.
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post #9273 of 9767 Old 08-03-2013, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waltah View Post

I had buzzing when pedestal mounted. once I mounted it on the wall it completely disappeared. not a hint of it anymore. this leads me to believe something must have been or is loose inside the TV, once it is mounted it put pressure or change pressure wherever the loose item is.

having an ISF calibration done wednesday night, cant wait.

Awesome, keep us posted on your results.

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post #9274 of 9767 Old 08-03-2013, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waltah View Post

I had buzzing when pedestal mounted. once I mounted it on the wall it completely disappeared. not a hint of it anymore. this leads me to believe something must have been or is loose inside the TV, once it is mounted it put pressure or change pressure wherever the loose item is.

having an ISF calibration done wednesday night, cant wait.

This was mentioned a while back also with someone. I think I suggested bolting a couple of "back stiffeners" to the rear of the set using the threaded holes for wall mount brackets and possibly some foam pads underneath for vibration isolation. If you are dealing with a loose part somewhere, this could fix it but if you have an excessively noisy magnetostrictive oscillator in the power supply it probably won't.

In any event, glad to hear about another silent GT50. More proof that silence is normal.
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post #9275 of 9767 Old 08-03-2013, 08:42 PM
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Okay I just wanted to say I am slowly starting to lose my patience with this subwoofer business. It has taken a lot longer than I expected. I called the repair place the other day to check the status, and they said that they ordered the Subwoofer Thursday of LAST week, and it usually takes about 7 to 10 business days. It hasn't been that long just yet, but I'm really hoping that they get it in next week.

But there's another part to this. After this step was taken, I had to call the other place that Panasonic set me up with to cancel that repair, and just go with this one. Though they said it's possible that the A board MAY still need replacing, but I'm not sure. I have searched all over the internet, and I really did not seem to find much about TV subwoofers blowing out. The repair man just thinks I played it too loud a lot of the time, and I know that will do it. But I wonder if maybe there's something wrong with the amplifier in the TV set, because that really would suck. I would really like to get this issue resolved sooner than later.
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post #9276 of 9767 Old 08-04-2013, 01:44 AM
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If you like playing the sound really loud on the tv all the time I would suggest a cheap soundbar.

No, Mr. Bond. I expect you to die!
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post #9277 of 9767 Old 08-05-2013, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeL24 View Post

I have a GT50 60 inch I bought late August 2012. An infrequent error has been happening on the set. Description: while watching TV the video will suddenly display a multi-colored scrambled picture, the audio will screech and this will happen for about 3 seconds and the set will shut off. After about a second the set will turn on by itself and a message will be displayed on the screen: "An error has been detected and recovered" and the set plays fine after that. I started recording the frequency of this last month. This happened six times in June and five times so far in July.

Anyone else experience this? Since my 1 year warranty is set to expire, I will call for service regardless to get this "problem" documented. Thanks!

Just an update on this. I waited to call Customer Service until I got a video of the problem occurring ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3XbvDuLkI8 ), so I could prove the problem exists in case the set is not recording these errors. Customer service had me go into Self Test which showed everything OK. They declared the problem solved and said that the problem "will not" occur again. Two days later it happened again. Now they are sending a tech out to take a look at it.
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post #9278 of 9767 Old 08-08-2013, 10:21 AM
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Hi. I have a gaming question. I have HP workstation notebook 8440w. It has both a DisplayPort and VGA connector. What is the best way for me to hook up the cpu to the GT50?

I have never played a game on a computer before, but really want to try out Elder's Scroll: Skyrim. I'm not even sure if my PC can handle the game. Here are the specs in case you are interested: http://www.pcworld.com/product/378631/elitebook-8440w-14-silver-notebook.html

If you can answer that question, that would be great! But my main concern is the best way to connect the PC to TV.

Thanks!
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post #9279 of 9767 Old 08-08-2013, 10:43 AM
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The only way you can connect it is using the VGA connection from laptop to TV. I don't have any experience with VGA connections because I have my HTPC - HDMI so I'm not sure if it can work properly or give you 1080p resolution. But there is only one way to find out so try it. Post your results for others that may want to go that route. I know 100% that HDMI works but your laptop doesn't have it.

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post #9280 of 9767 Old 08-08-2013, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbulluci View Post

Hi. I have a gaming question. I have HP workstation notebook 8440w. It has both a DisplayPort and VGA connector. What is the best way for me to hook up the cpu to the GT50?

I have never played a game on a computer before, but really want to try out Elder's Scroll: Skyrim. I'm not even sure if my PC can handle the game. Here are the specs in case you are interested: http://www.pcworld.com/product/378631/elitebook-8440w-14-silver-notebook.html

If you can answer that question, that would be great! But my main concern is the best way to connect the PC to TV.

Thanks!

I have an 8540; very similar just bigger screen. Great laptop by the way. I have not done a lot but all I do is plug the VGA out on the rear of the laptop to the VGA in on the gt50. Switch the input to "computer" on the GT50 and activate the VGA out on the laptop with one of the function keys (dont remember which one). There isn't even any reason to dig into menus or settings.

You can then either plug the headphone jack into the GT50 with the multi-plug adapter that came with the set to get audio from the TV or better yet connect it to your AV receiver for more volume. If your game has multi-channel surround instead of just simple stereo you will need something like a USB to digital optical converter to get the most out of the system. I have used the Turtle Beach unit and it works great. I used to run HTPC from this laptop on my old TV and the 5.1 DD sound worked fine from the converter. Around $15 a few years ago.

The GT50 does not use a display port. I don't know if anyone ever got behind supporting this. Everyone went HDMI instead.

Anything else, just yell. I'll tell you what I can.
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post #9281 of 9767 Old 08-08-2013, 11:31 AM
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What about a displayport to hdmi cable? Will this work. So I can get both video and sound.
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post #9282 of 9767 Old 08-09-2013, 01:15 AM
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Would anything think that at this point in time, that there are any GT50's that are actually factory sealed and not reburbs that are listed as "new?? I was contemplating picking up a GT50 55"..

Panasonic GT50 50"
Panasonic GT50 55"
Pansaonic VT50 55" (Sold)
Pansaonic VT60 60" (Sold)
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post #9283 of 9767 Old 08-09-2013, 03:41 AM
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Is top right as seen from back or front?

From front, sorry about that. smile.gif
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post #9284 of 9767 Old 08-09-2013, 04:49 AM
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Thanks
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post #9285 of 9767 Old 08-09-2013, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony1 View Post

Would anything think that at this point in time, that there are any GT50's that are actually factory sealed and not reburbs that are listed as "new?? I was contemplating picking up a GT50 55"..

I think there would be, assuming you get lucky finding one. Some Pioneer Elite plasmas were still found brand new in box a couple of years ago if you knew where to look. What happened I thought you sold your VT50 to get a VT60?

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post #9286 of 9767 Old 08-09-2013, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post

I think there would be, assuming you get lucky finding one. Some Pioneer Elite plasmas were still found brand new in box a couple of years ago if you knew where to look. What happened I thought you sold your VT50 to get a VT60?

I did.. had the VT60 for a few weeks and hated it, it's gone now..,.. The fan noise, dim picture, and reflections were unbearable. I have a gt50 mounted close by and have done extensive comparing of
the two, and actually prefer the gt50, believe it or not! Maybe due to the higher light output.. The GT50 definitely has a punchier picture..

Panasonic GT50 50"
Panasonic GT50 55"
Pansaonic VT50 55" (Sold)
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post #9287 of 9767 Old 08-09-2013, 10:11 AM
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I believe it, the GT50 is brighter, that was the case with the VT50, some people bought it than exchanged it for the GT50 because they preferred the brightness of it.

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post #9288 of 9767 Old 08-09-2013, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post

I believe it, the GT50 is brighter, that was the case with the VT50, some people bought it than exchanged it for the GT50 because they preferred the brightness of it.

Do you think that the ST60 has the same brightness as the GT50? Right now i can get a 55" gt50 or a 55" st60 for the same pirce.. I realize that the ST60 is a year newer,
but I don't feel any new technology was really applied to the ST's. Also, i like the design of the GT50, much more, and it has day and night modes..Plus I'm very familiar, with
the GT50's PQ, and have no idea about the ST60's PQ. (any small tweaks they may have done to it, that may not be to my liking, etc)

Panasonic GT50 50"
Panasonic GT50 55"
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post #9289 of 9767 Old 08-09-2013, 04:51 PM
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I know that the ST60 can get brighter than the VT60, as for being the same as the GT50 I'm not sure, maybe. But If the VT60 didn't impress you, being a higher end model than the ST60 I don't think the ST will either. Hopefully you can compared them where you can get them for the same price.

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post #9290 of 9767 Old 08-10-2013, 05:00 AM
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The GT50 also has 4 HDMI inputs instead of three on the ST60. Of course with some setups you don't need that many.
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post #9291 of 9767 Old 08-10-2013, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post

I know that the ST60 can get brighter than the VT60, as for being the same as the GT50 I'm not sure, maybe. But If the VT60 didn't impress you, being a higher end model than the ST60 I don't think the ST will either. Hopefully you can compared them where you can get them for the same price.

Thats what i was thinking at first.. But if you think about it,, sometimes the lower models are actually better.. The st60 is brighter, has no fans, and does not have that overly aggressive light filter on it,
that adds to the dimness of the vt60.. But I think i am better off just sticking to the GT50 because i know exactly what to expect..

Panasonic GT50 50"
Panasonic GT50 55"
Pansaonic VT50 55" (Sold)
Pansaonic VT60 60" (Sold)
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post #9292 of 9767 Old 08-10-2013, 03:30 PM
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Well I had the subwoofer replaced and all is good. However, I purchased a digital to analog audio converter so I can hook the TV up to my vintage stereo receiver. It works, but the volume seems lower than all the other inputs and I can't find anything to adjust it. All the TV audio controls are grayed out when the TV speakers are off.
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post #9293 of 9767 Old 08-10-2013, 04:15 PM
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Does anyone know which set is brighter? The GT50 55" or the ST60 55"?? Thanks..

Panasonic GT50 50"
Panasonic GT50 55"
Pansaonic VT50 55" (Sold)
Pansaonic VT60 60" (Sold)
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post #9294 of 9767 Old 08-10-2013, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssetta View Post

Well I had the subwoofer replaced and all is good. However, I purchased a digital to analog audio converter so I can hook the TV up to my vintage stereo receiver. It works, but the volume seems lower than all the other inputs and I can't find anything to adjust it. All the TV audio controls are grayed out when the TV speakers are off.

The digital audio output is fixed and is not varied by the volume setting of the TV. However, you may not have bought the proper digital-to-audio converter. You need one that can handle the 5.1 audio that is common with many TV programs. The one I use is a Gefen GTV-DD-2-AA, about $100 from Amazon. The less expensive ones cannot handle 5.1 audio and costs about $50. If you read the fine print with the latter model you'll see **Please note that this product does not support encoded Dolby Digital audio. Verify you can turn off Dolby Digital in the source you will be connecting to this converter.
Whereas the other states: The GTV-DD-2-AA GefenTV Digital Audio Decoder from Gefen accepts audio encoded in Dolby Digital (at up to 5.1 channels) from your multi-channel S/PDIF or TOSLINK digital audio source and converts it to L/R analog audio.

Tom
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post #9295 of 9767 Old 08-11-2013, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom1996 View Post

The digital audio output is fixed and is not varied by the volume setting of the TV. However, you may not have bought the proper digital-to-audio converter. You need one that can handle the 5.1 audio that is common with many TV programs. The one I use is a Gefen GTV-DD-2-AA, about $100 from Amazon. The less expensive ones cannot handle 5.1 audio and costs about $50. If you read the fine print with the latter model you'll see **Please note that this product does not support encoded Dolby Digital audio. Verify you can turn off Dolby Digital in the source you will be connecting to this converter.
Whereas the other states: The GTV-DD-2-AA GefenTV Digital Audio Decoder from Gefen accepts audio encoded in Dolby Digital (at up to 5.1 channels) from your multi-channel S/PDIF or TOSLINK digital audio source and converts it to L/R analog audio.

Tom

Here's the one I purchased, this one seemed to be recommended:

http://www.amazon.com/TC-P50GT50-TC-P55GT50-TC-P60GT50-TC-P65GT50-Headphones/dp/B009G7FZJ4/ref=pd_1

It says it's compatible with all televisions, and it was only $25. I thought it would do the trick, it didn't seem like there would be a difference. But do you think it would have an effect on the volume level?
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post #9296 of 9767 Old 08-11-2013, 07:08 AM
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The way it reads it seems like it should work, and if it does it is a very good buy. I am surprised that you amplifier cannot raise the volume enough. Is there only one input you can use? If it is a "vintage" amplifier it should have a phone input for a turntable that is for a low-level input. I wonder if that would work. I use my setup for my wireless headphones and for an external speaker that can take a digital phono input. I did the latter so I could choose between the built-in speakers or the external speakers.
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post #9297 of 9767 Old 08-11-2013, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssetta View Post

Well I had the subwoofer replaced and all is good. However, I purchased a digital to analog audio converter so I can hook the TV up to my vintage stereo receiver. It works, but the volume seems lower than all the other inputs and I can't find anything to adjust it. All the TV audio controls are grayed out when the TV speakers are off.

If your stereo receiver doesnt have optical jacks then it probably does not have multi-channel capability either. So, you are only going to have stereo. The super cheap converter units will not handle the DD5.1 signal from any DD source and will go quiet as mentioned above. Most of the mid-grade converters will decode DD but still do not provide a "level" control for increasing the volume like you want. Some of the expensive converters will also provide level control, multi-channel outputs, and DTS decoders. Unless you are feeding a bunch of tube amps I dont think these high end converters are worth the money. You can just buy a simple modern AV receiver with all the connections on board for the same price and scrap the entire converter idea.

Short of upgrading your receiver I would suggest using a Bluetooth music adapter. It will tie into your stereo with a simple stereo RCA cable and give you volume control through the TV's remote control. Your receiver's volume control is still the "master" volume level but you control the output level from the TV just like using the TV's built in speakers. This is stereo only but if you are running a simple stereo set-up, it's all you need. It's also wireless so you don't need to run any wires which can be a big plus if your TV is wall mounted and the receiver is on a shelf somewhere else.
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post #9298 of 9767 Old 08-11-2013, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssetta View Post

Here's the one I purchased, this one seemed to be recommended:

http://www.amazon.com/TC-P50GT50-TC-P55GT50-TC-P60GT50-TC-P65GT50-Headphones/dp/B009G7FZJ4/ref=pd_1

It says it's compatible with all televisions, and it was only $25. I thought it would do the trick, it didn't seem like there would be a difference. But do you think it would have an effect on the volume level?

Maybe I missed it, but I don't see any mention of including a DD decoder in this unit. If it does, OK. If not, keep looking. I had a similar unit on my prior TV and it worked fine but that TV let you manually select the form of digital output as being either DD or raw bitstream. When I got the gt50 I found this unit would not work with any DD output and the GT does not allow you to select or down sample digital audio.

I was talking about something like this http://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-NFC-enabled-Bluetooth-Receiver-System/dp/B009OBCAW2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376230945&sr=1-2&keywords=bluetooth+music+receiver

I use a similar device with my I-pad for music all the time, it works great. I confirmed that it works with the GT about 6-8 months back when I suggested using this as an audio out option for someone doing the same thing you are doing.
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post #9299 of 9767 Old 08-12-2013, 01:51 PM
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What about this doesn't make sense? Six weeks of high contrast fixed images and one night of full screen no fixed images? Notice the discrepancy in time frames in that question. wink.gif

Would someone who doesn't know what happened notice the IR if they were watching a Blu-ray or DVD movie with an aspect ratio that filled your screen (1.78:1 -- 16x9)? Notice the absence of white screens in that question. wink.gif

Take a vacation from the specific channels that caused the IR you're seeing, and mix your viewing material much better than you have in the last six weeks. Stay away from having the same fixed image on the screen for an inordinate length of time. Also, stay away from the solid color or white screens that are used to find IR. Your screen will gradually age enough to even out, and the IR you shouldn't be searching for will be gone.

I watch a lot of NFL on Fox, CBS, NBC, ESPN, and the NFL Network. My wife watches almost every NHL game that our local team plays except for a few games that she attends. All that sports programing involves fixed images for two to four hours at a stretch. Once in a great while I watch a NFL double header on the same channel for maybe seven hours.

The rest of the time we watch shiny disk movies from Netflix with a mix of either no black bars or side black bars or top and bottom black bars. We also watch our local public broadcasting station. All most all of what we watch has black bars, logos or other fixed images. Those fixed images vary in contrast from very low to high. We don't run our set as background filler like a radio. So far, that behavior has protected us from IR for over five years. In that time I've checked for IR with colored slides one time as part of an IR discussion here at AVS.


Mix it up and enjoy. smile.gif

Edit: Pixar animation movies with a 1.78:1 aspect ratio are good sources to use to speed up image retention removal, and if you play them on repeat during the time you're not using your TV it will be even faster.

Another member pointed us to this post as a solid guide to minimize IR.

In the above bold, are you saying that watching any sports or show with banners hasn't caused any IR for you because you mix it up with DVD's & don't keep it on all the time?

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post #9300 of 9767 Old 08-12-2013, 02:58 PM
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Another member pointed us to this post as a solid guide to minimize IR.
I don't know if it's a solid guide but it worked for us with a Pioneer 6010 Kuro. Also I put 500 hours going 24/7 using safe programming material and solid color slides.
Quote:
In the above bold, are you saying that watching any sports or show with banners hasn't caused any IR for you because you mix it up with DVD's & don't keep it on all the time?
Yes our TV is on only when there is something we want to watch.

I was referring to someone who wanted to buy a plasma display, but also wanted to keep ESPN on all day in the background. Other than sports, we don't watch much that would have a fixed image on the screen. Like I wrote, we watch all our movies in their original aspect ratio which means that we do watch with a lot of black bars.

I can't explain why one owner will have IR after a couple of hours with the same fixed image on the screen, and others, like me, have never seen IR. One possible explanation is that some people make a special effort to find IR. I may have had IR over the years, but never to the extent that I could see it imposed on the program that I was currently watching. One owner has posted that he thinks that he has burn-in (not IR) because if he goes up close to his screen, he can see an image that's been there for two months.

It's very hard to get an accurate estimation from a collection of personal accounts. That seems to be especially true it the accounts cover the whole range of possible outcomes.
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