Settings have been updated. See post #3 on the first page.
I bumped the tone to +1. I either overlooked it or the set is just breaking in, as I've had it on all week. Either way this is what both calibration software discs are telling me is perfect. This is what I mean by triple checking things. So go ahead and do this and if nothing it should improve any reddish skin tones that you may encounter.
I came to the 3D settings to be as reference as possible. This means I'm not as interested in as bright a picture as I am accurate. I found what I ended up with very close to 2D settings, and simply stunning. Following the calibration discs in 2D-3D (which so far has been a good and cheap way to get some numbers on these sets) I spent about 2 hours on it.
Brightness is perfect at 58. Contrast was ever as tricky to get as 2D mode but I ended up in a ballpark of 91-93. Any higher is unnecessary and will only result in clipping those whites. I ran the patterns over and over and contrast peaked at 93. So to save your set, and avoid white crush I found 92 the best setting. Color was uneven at both 47 and 49 so it retains the original value of 48 and hue needed to be raised +2 due to the warmer picture. I decided to keep the temp at Warm 2. Everything was calibrated with *only* Warm 2 in mind and you just have to keep in mind that brightness will be sacrificed to get an accurate picture. The brightness is raised by default anyway when selecting 3D mode to compensate so I decided not to change the temp.
Moving on to motion smoothing.. OFF is probably where it needs to be but I found smoothing in this case to reduce crosstalk. As mentioned earlier I barely see artifacts when set to weak. Running motion tests in fact OFF/Weak appears identical. It's only when you switch to Medium is where obvious interpolation comes in. Still..I recommend OFF for 2D. 3D however seems IMO to introduce judder (that or makes me aware of it) and if your sensitive to it then your best off setting to weak. Purists may or may not like it but IMO it helps rid of extra judder that shouldn't be there. Beating a dead horse but I don't see the same judder present in 2D.
48hz vs 60hz is purely user preference. Some users report smoother motion with less crosstalk using 48hz, and I can understand why as your looking at proper film cadence. But with any source (patterns, 3D films including Resident Evil: Afterlife, Narnia, and Piranha) there is flicker present. Perhaps I'm extra sensitive but it's definitely there. Not only do I find 60hz more stable, but it also brightens the image ever so slight. I find no more crosstalk here than the ST30 it replaced.
Finally 3d adjustment I have turned on and set to -1. This is another one of those user preference things and you either like it or you don't. I tested several scenes here and come to the conclusion that by not using 3d adjustment...the picture is too flat. By turning it on and set to -1 increases the dynamic nature of 3D, offering a 'fuller' image, and I found it to have no more crosstalk versus set to off. I tested this with a bunch of patterns, lines, and paused scenes in 3D films. An adjustment of -1 is the only setting that produced a straight line. Anything else (including 0) had wavy lines, introduces noise, or some other caveat that would give you a headache and/or introduce crosstalk. So you can switch between them yourself and see what you like best. I find both off and -1 to be somewhat relaxing to the eyes. The tradeoff of using the adjustment is slight crosstalk in demanding scenes. The tradeoff not using it is lacking depth of field throughout the movie. I'd rather be impressed 90% of the time, but as usual everyone's mileage will vary.