Official Panasonic UT50 Series Discussion Thread - Page 79 - AVS Forum
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post #2341 of 2605 Old 03-29-2013, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

That seems like a solid option to me. Again, I don't recommend the U50 at all.

Move your seat closer (if possible). biggrin.gif

I appreciate your help and opinion. It's hard to sort it all out at times. I didn't see many people saying there was a significant difference between the UT and U, but it's usually the people in the minority who are a bit more discerning, so I'll definitely keep that in mind if I go for a 2012 model. The way my price comparisons are working out aren't the easiest because I can't compare like sizes of the same model due to availability.

The 60 was tempting as I had been on the PJ forum and really started thinking I wanted to go as big as possible. Maybe a mistake to have visited there.

I do have some leeway with placement so I'll do some measurements. I'm positive a 55" will be enjoyable, I'm just not sure it's going to have the immersion and will still just "feel like watching tv". From the calculator 60" is barely cutting it. Anyhow, budgets are what they are and we must work within them. Maybe down the road I'll get that PJ. Cost wasn't the issue there, as there seems to be a few sub 1k units that are pretty nice. It's just that I rent and I can't wire up electric to the ceiling. I don't think the DLP's have enough zoom for the unit to go at the back of my room either. Even then I'd still have to talk wire over an entrance way and that's an issue when you're renting. Some day. I just keep telling myself that at least I'll get better black with Plasma for what I could afford in the PJ world.
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post #2342 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 09:18 AM
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OK, this is probably a dumb question but I have to ask.


I've got to 60UT50 and watched the new BluRay of DRACULA last night. (UKBD)
While the picture was grainy I discovered the DVD version (that came with the BD) looks much sharper with zero grain on my seventeen inch laptop.

Now, is this solely due to the size difference or should I look into adjusting the settings on my Oppo player and/or TV?
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post #2343 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Baron Blood View Post

OK, this is probably a dumb question but I have to ask.


I've got to 60UT50 and watched the new BluRay of DRACULA last night. (UKBD)
While the picture was grainy I discovered the DVD version (that came with the BD) looks much sharper with zero grain on my seventeen inch laptop.

Now, is this solely due to the size difference or should I look into adjusting the settings on my Oppo player and/or TV?

How does the DVD look in the tv? The same? If it does than that is the way the movie was filmed. Directors like to film movies like that to give it a more of a classic oldies look.

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post #2344 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 11:52 AM
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How does the DVD look in the tv? The same? If it does than that is the way the movie was filmed. Directors like to film movies like that to give it a more of a classic oldies look.



I tested the DVD on my TV and it didn't look anywhere as good as it does on my laptop.
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post #2345 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 12:20 PM
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Hi all

I just posted a new replay at the issue thread asking about this model:
TH-P50UT50M

It has the exact same features with TC-P50UT50, but i can't find custom picture mode or any of the advance settings.
The picture quality still good, but the screen is dim comparing it to my previous TV(LED samsung 46D7500)
Any help?
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post #2346 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackUnknown View Post

Hi all

I just posted a new replay at the issue thread asking about this model:
TH-P50UT50M

It has the exact same features with TC-P50UT50, but i can't find custom picture mode or any of the advance settings.
The picture quality still good, but the screen is dim comparing it to my previous TV(LED samsung 46D7500)
Any help?

Thats normal for the non North America models, they have a totally different set of setup features and modes.
And its normal that LED/LCD TVs are far brighter whites than plasmas, but plasmas have superior black levels for dark environment viewing and much wider viewing angles and better motion display.
Look for a picture mode similar to cinema or movie or theater, that should be able to be setup brighter than the default (standard or normal) mode with a higher contrast/picture setting.
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post #2347 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 01:02 PM
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^

I already chose the dynamic picture mode and of course it's a lot better than the standard one, but iam afraid that I’m not getting the best result because I heard the UT50 is useless without suitable calibration.
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post #2348 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 03:51 PM
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^

after testing the TV for a while, i think the screen is dim because the HDMI black level seems to be set to Low, i can't find any place to adjust it to normal !
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post #2349 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackUnknown View Post

^

after testing the TV for a while, i think the screen is dim because the HDMI black level seems to be set to Low, i can't find any place to adjust it to normal !

I doubt it's on low panel brightness, it probably just looks dim to you.
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post #2350 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 05:22 PM
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Maybe you are right because this is my first plasma TV and i didn't get used to it yet
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post #2351 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 08:08 PM
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Hey everyone, I'm just about nearing the end of my return period for this TV and I'm not sure if it's worth keeping. Picture quality is great and all, but even with all the curtains in place during the day, this TV still acts as a damn mirror. A rather dim one too, as even at 85 contrast it still seems to be lacking brightness. Then we have the real issue - the buzzing is bothering me during any quiet scene of a movie.

On the other hand, it's a 55" panel with a great picture and supposedly low input lag (though I still haven't gotten around to gaming on it) and it only set me back $799 or so at Costco. Assuming I do return this TV, is there anything else out there in this price range that offers a similar bang for the buck? I want to love this TV, I really do, but the glare and the buzzing are trying my patience and I'm not sure I want to be stuck with it.

Thanks.
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post #2352 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DWells55 View Post

Hey everyone, I'm just about nearing the end of my return period for this TV and I'm not sure if it's worth keeping. Picture quality is great and all, but even with all the curtains in place during the day, this TV still acts as a damn mirror. A rather dim one too, as even at 85 contrast it still seems to be lacking brightness. Then we have the real issue - the buzzing is bothering me during any quiet scene of a movie.

On the other hand, it's a 55" panel with a great picture and supposedly low input lag (though I still haven't gotten around to gaming on it) and it only set me back $799 or so at Costco. Assuming I do return this TV, is there anything else out there in this price range that offers a similar bang for the buck? I want to love this TV, I really do, but the glare and the buzzing are trying my patience and I'm not sure I want to be stuck with it.

Thanks.

You want curtains like these. http://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Insulated-Blackout-Curtain-Set-BLACK/dp/B001A63XTS These are the best curtains for the price. I use the dark/navy blue ones and they keep all the light out. I have a set of olive ones, which look almost gray depending on lighting, but they work well too. It's just a little easier to see light spotting through the curtains, but neither colors create a mirror like picture on the TV. I don't think you'll find a better TV at this price. But if you get those curtains, and I don't recommend "Eclipse" brand because they didn't work nearly as well, you'll have a much better viewing experience. Also remember that brightness is relative to the ambient lighting. In a dark room I think the TV is plenty bright, 32-35 ft.L is pretty good. Not as bright as an LCD, but it's still within the recommended limit. I know the ST50 and higher with THX mode uses about 27-30 fl.L. for brightness.
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post #2353 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DWells55 View Post

Hey everyone, I'm just about nearing the end of my return period for this TV and I'm not sure if it's worth keeping. Picture quality is great and all, but even with all the curtains in place during the day, this TV still acts as a damn mirror. A rather dim one too, as even at 85 contrast it still seems to be lacking brightness. Then we have the real issue - the buzzing is bothering me during any quiet scene of a movie.

On the other hand, it's a 55" panel with a great picture and supposedly low input lag (though I still haven't gotten around to gaming on it) and it only set me back $799 or so at Costco. Assuming I do return this TV, is there anything else out there in this price range that offers a similar bang for the buck? I want to love this TV, I really do, but the glare and the buzzing are trying my patience and I'm not sure I want to be stuck with it.

Thanks.

You Can get the 50ST60 for 999. It has the glare filter and is rated as about even with the VT50 last years flagship TV and winner of best 2012 tv in the VE shootout.
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post #2354 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWells55 View Post

Hey everyone, I'm just about nearing the end of my return period for this TV and I'm not sure if it's worth keeping. Picture quality is great and all, but even with all the curtains in place during the day, this TV still acts as a damn mirror. A rather dim one too, as even at 85 contrast it still seems to be lacking brightness. Then we have the real issue - the buzzing is bothering me during any quiet scene of a movie.

On the other hand, it's a 55" panel with a great picture and supposedly low input lag (though I still haven't gotten around to gaming on it) and it only set me back $799 or so at Costco. Assuming I do return this TV, is there anything else out there in this price range that offers a similar bang for the buck? I want to love this TV, I really do, but the glare and the buzzing are trying my patience and I'm not sure I want to be stuck with it.

Thanks.

The 2013 models may be a touch brighter, but you aren't going to fix your glare issues for $800.
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post #2355 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 08:30 PM
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You want curtains like these. http://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Insulated-Blackout-Curtain-Set-BLACK/dp/B001A63XTS These are the best curtains for the price. I use the dark/navy blue ones and they keep all the light out. I have a set of olive ones, which look almost gray depending on lighting, but they work well too. It's just a little easier to see light spotting through the curtains, but neither colors create a mirror like picture on the TV. I don't think you'll find a better TV at this price. But if you get those curtains, and I don't recommend "Eclipse" brand because they didn't work nearly as well, you'll have a much better viewing experience. Also remember that brightness is relative to the ambient lighting. In a dark room I think the TV is plenty bright, 32-35 ft.L is pretty good. Not as bright as an LCD, but it's still within the recommended limit. I know the ST50 and higher with THX mode uses about 27-30 fl.L. for brightness.

Unfortunately such a setup won't work for me - I have ten foot tall windows and went with a track-based sliding panel curtain setup (let me tell you, that was the most difficult thing I've ever installed in my life). Even if I could find some panels that fully blocked light, the tracks are too crowded as is and replacing existing panels with solid black would ruin the look of the room. So during the day there's always going to be a decent amount of diffused non-direct daylight.
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You Can get the 50ST60 for 999. It has the glare filter and is rated as about even with the VT50 last years flagship TV and winner of best 2012 tv in the VE shootout.
I'd have to cough up the extra cash for the 55" - 50" is just too small for me. Any idea how the buzzing is on these sets? The UT50 thus far is noticeably louder than the VT25 I was previously used to viewing. Is the line bleed any better? The UT50 line bleed is incredibly noticeable when displaying a Windows desktop (I'm not actually using it as a monitor, just when opening media players and such), far more so than again, the VT25.
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Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

The 2013 models may be a touch brighter, but you aren't going to fix your glare issues for $800.
I figured as much.


I hate to even entertain the thought, but it's sounding like I might need to go for an LED TV. I've always been a plasma fan, though. That said, I imagine finding a 55" LED with a good picture and low input lag in this price bracket is going to be damn near impossible.
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post #2356 of 2605 Old 03-31-2013, 08:55 PM
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I would say that's a definite no to finding an LED that's comparable. Now, If the buzzing is actually bothering you during normal viewing, then your set is defective. I also want to add something that may be considered hypocrisy, but I don't see how effective a glare filter really is. I have my GT50 in a cave, but when I do have the lights on or have the curtains open, to me it's basically like looking into a mirror also.
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post #2357 of 2605 Old 04-01-2013, 12:11 PM
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Maybe you are right because this is my first plasma TV and i didn't get used to it yet






This is my first plasma too and it did take me a month or two to get use to the brightness.

Now when I go to my brothers house I see he has his LCD set too bright for me.
However there is the odd commercial where I feel the background greys should be a little brighter.
My guess is the commercials are favoring LCD/LEDS as DVDS & BDS look outstanding on this TV.



About any buzzing...my TV gives off heat when standing next to it but there's no buzzing I've noticed so my guess is if anyone's set is buzzing...it's defective.
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post #2358 of 2605 Old 04-01-2013, 12:11 PM
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double post:rolleyes:
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post #2359 of 2605 Old 04-04-2013, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackUnknown View Post

^

I already chose the dynamic picture mode and of course it's a lot better than the standard one, but iam afraid that I’m not getting the best result because I heard the UT50 is useless without suitable calibration.

Not true. The UT50 is very close to D65 with Warm 2 color temp setting. That's the only real thing calibration on this set does.
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post #2360 of 2605 Old 04-05-2013, 12:01 PM
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Hi all,

I just picked up a TCP55UT50 from Costco last night. Watched Skyfall (Cinema warm 2) and it looked great. As this is my 1st plasma set (had a Sammy HLR-5067 DLP that died after 8 years) I've got a few questions.

I've found the Burn-in and setting threads but like this thread, there are a lot of messages to wade through. smile.gif

So here are my basic newbie questions.

1: How long should I break it in for and what is the best way of doing that? I don't see the family not being able to watch TV for 100 hrs while I run PixelJogger for Hrs on end, not to mention my GF is epileptic and the pattern could cause a seizure.

2: How long should I wait until I get the set professionally calibrated. I don't have a colorimeter and can't see the point in getting one for a very rare use.

3: What are best user calibration tools/settings I can use to help improve the picture until I get it calibrated?

The tv will be used for HDTV, BD and some gaming.

Thanks.
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post #2361 of 2605 Old 04-05-2013, 12:25 PM
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Hi all,

I just picked up a TCP55UT50 from Costco last night. Watched Skyfall (Cinema warm 2) and it looked great. As this is my 1st plasma set (had a Sammy HLR-5067 DLP that died after 8 years) I've got a few questions.

I've found the Burn-in and setting threads but like this thread, there are a lot of messages to wade through. smile.gif

So here are my basic newbie questions.

1: How long should I break it in for and what is the best way of doing that? I don't see the family not being able to watch TV for 100 hrs while I run PixelJogger for Hrs on end, not to mention my GF is epileptic and the pattern could cause a seizure.

2: How long should I wait until I get the set professionally calibrated. I don't have a colorimeter and can't see the point in getting one for a very rare use.

3: What are best user calibration tools/settings I can use to help improve the picture until I get it calibrated?

The tv will be used for HDTV, BD and some gaming.

Thanks.

1. Just watch varied content, cinema or custom mode is good to use. Just don't watch 4:3 content, if you do HD fill the aspect ratio. You should be fine as long as you don't pause or watch the same channel for hours and hours with logos.

2. Typically is 100 hrs minimum before you get it calibrated, 200 hrs is ideal.

3. Search in this thread for settings for your tv and choose the best one for you. I have a GT50 so my settings would be different.

TV - Panasonic 55GT50 THX, Main Speakers - Klipsch Gallery G28's, Center Channel- Klipsch RC-52, Sub-Klipsch Sub 12, Surround - Klipsch RS-52 II Bluray/Game - HTPC/PS3, Receiver - Onkyo RC-360, HTPC- Intel Core i3, HDMI,Windows 7,XBMC,Bluray,7 TB, Video Processor -Darbee

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post #2362 of 2605 Old 04-07-2013, 05:39 PM
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Can anyone else confirm that the 3D just absolutely sucks on this set? I picked up Avatar in 3D, which I've also seen in theatres, and nothing jumps out of the screen whatsoever. It almost looks like nothing more than 2D to 3D conversion, just added depth is all I'm seeing out of this set. Going to Best Buy and putting my eyes through their mounted glasses on certain other LED sets gives that 3D pop that I was wanting, but I refuse to get an LED. And yes, I'm selecting 3D within the Blu Ray's menu, and hitting the 3D button on my remote to activate the 3D.
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post #2363 of 2605 Old 04-07-2013, 06:18 PM
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If you put the 3d blu-ray in, you shouldn't have to click the 3d button on the remote. It should enable 3d by itself.
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post #2364 of 2605 Old 04-07-2013, 07:48 PM
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If you put the 3d blu-ray in, you shouldn't have to click the 3d button on the remote. It should enable 3d by itself.

Really? Even though you have to enable the 3D from within the menu? I believe that it's defaulted to non-3D in Avatar, and you have to manually set that. So the menu is first read in non-3D.
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post #2365 of 2605 Old 04-07-2013, 07:54 PM
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Really? Even though you have to enable the 3D from within the menu? I believe that it's defaulted to non-3D in Avatar, and you have to manually set that. So the menu is first read in non-3D.

I don't have Avatar, but my 3D Blu-rays have one disc for 3D and another for 2D. However, I believe if your Blu-ray player is outputting in 3D the TV should detect it automatically. Pressing the 3D button just enables 2d-to-3d conversion I believe. Make sure your Blu-ray player supports 3D output and has it enabled. Also, if you're using an AV receiver, make sure it also supports 3D signals, otherwise you'd need to run an HDMI cable directly to the TV from the Blu-ray player.

EDIT: If your Blu-ray player is outputting 3D using Side-by-Side mode or some other "3d over a 2d signal" mode, then you might need to press the 3D button, but the TV will prompt you for this. However, for the standard frame-packed 3d, you shouldn't.
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post #2366 of 2605 Old 04-07-2013, 08:15 PM
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I haven't seen Avatar 3D but most 3D movies aren't produced to have images jump out of the screen. There are a few movies designed specifically that way, but all of the AAA 3D films I've seen add 3D mainly for depth and immersion, not for overwhelming effect.

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post #2367 of 2605 Old 04-07-2013, 08:37 PM
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and I think that's the way it should be. It should be like looking through an open window. Occasionally, something might fly in the window, but most of the time things are going to be outside the window. Too much "pop out" feels unnatural and can increase the negative effects some people have with 3d. It also just doesn't work if the object popping out touches any of the borders of the screen at all.
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post #2368 of 2605 Old 04-07-2013, 08:51 PM
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I think 3D is just fine on my UT50. I see occasional crosstalk depending on the movie/scene but otherwise I don't have any complaints.
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post #2369 of 2605 Old 04-07-2013, 11:01 PM
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Well the way I see it is that the 3D that's displayed through our displays should be displayed as they were displayed in theatre, and coming out of the UT50 is definitely not like it was in theatre - in theatre there was your pop out moments. I'm not saying that the whole films should be popped out, but they all should have their moments and scenes that do so. When the UT50 plays the scenes that you can see are intended for a popout moment, things become out of focus, or hard to focus on. I was watching some movie the other week, not sure what it was called, but there was moments where you can tell the rain was supposed to be in your face, and then debris from explosion was supposed to come out at you and it didn't do that at all.
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The more an object pops out, the more likely it will get crosstalk, as the separation between the left/right image on that object will be very large. If the contrast is very high on the popped out object, it will be even more likely to have cross talk. The amount of cross talk can vary, from none, to a little, to a lot, depending on a variety of factors, such as the model of TV, the model of glasses, and the distance you are from the TV. The reason it happens is because the glasses have to flicker at exactly the right time for only the correct image to enter the correct lens. Chances are, the timing will be pretty darn close, but there is a margin of error, allowing partial leaking of the incorrect image into each lens. Usually, however, it's pretty close, and you'll still see the proper depth, you'll just see a halo/glow around objects that pop out very far or are extremely far away. If you want to reduce these artifacts, try changing your TV to 48Hz mode in 3D. Most people say this almost entirely eliminates crosstalk, but it is slightly more flickery as well, which could cause eye strain. I've found that turning out any lights or other screens helps make the flicker less noticeable.

Most theaters don't have this issue because they use polarized glasses instead of the active shutter glasses that work with these TVs. Some TVs also use polarized glasses, but those TVs output half the resolution and some people can get eye strain from the polarization filter as well.
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Reply Plasma Flat Panel Displays

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