just 1 more pair of KLIPSCH Classic speakers...
RED AND BLUE=MAROON!
PANASONIC 60" PLASMA 3D, DENON AVR-3312CI, LG BD670 3D NETWORK BRD (iPhone APPs), TOSHIBA HD-XA2 HD DVD, SAMSUNG BD-UP5000 HD DVD/BRD, iPod 8 GB, 13.2: KLIPSCH La Scala 1980 (Crites Rebuilt Type AA Crossovers Sonicaps) FRONT, HERESY II "SIGNATURE EDITION" WIDE, HERESY II CENTER/SURROUND, kg2 SB, kg3/kg1 Front/Rear HEIGHT, RW-12d SW, km-rsw
Amazon Canada sucks, it's nothing like Amazon US. Unfortunately.
After researching about plasmas and going through the various forums and threads I’m picking up a 55UT50 tonight. It’s a floor model with low hours and it had such a beautiful picture even in the store that I snapped it up. It’s my first plasma (and most likely last) and I’m really excited to get it set up properly, so I’ve been pouring through all of the threads here, and thanks to some incredibly knowledgeable members here, I think I have a pretty good grasp of its video capabilities. I will be trying out some of the settings posted in the settings thread as well as the Disney WOW and VE discs.
I do have some questions though, and I’m looking for some advice.
I have a Sony S5100 Blu-ray player and a 2013 Mac mini which I use to stream, web surf, and play lossless audio, hooked up to an Anthem MXR 300 receiver.
My question is: Am I better off performance wise, hooking up the Sony and Mac to the UT50 direct, and routing the Tosslink audio outs to the Anthem, or just running it all through the Anthem HDMI inputs and then the Anthem out to the Panny?.
Also, am I better off running the signal in pass thru straight to the UT50 and bypassing all of the Anthem’s Genesis chips video processing and letting the TV do it, if any?
And lastly, since I’m new to plasma, for web surfing on the mac mini, do you all have any setting recommendations for avoiding IR/Burn-in while doing so?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
I am soooo looking forward to popping in the Star Trek: TMP blu-ray tonight!
I would suggest doing web surfing in full screen mode if you can to prevent IR. Also, make sure the pixel orbiter is on. I would also probably run the scrolling bar after using the computer on the screen for a few minutes just in case. Computers are really good at causing IR since they have a lot of static images, so they're not really best suited for plasmas imo, but as long as you try to prevent as much static images on screen, you should be okay, although the top menu bar on macs doesn't ever go away does it? Can you set it to auto hide like on PCs? Because I could see that burning in quickly.
I just purchased this TV for the incredible clearance price of $488 from an H.E.B. Plus store. I'd had an old G10 from 2009 but I decided I wanted something newer as I'd started to notice some dimming and reduction in black levels.
I'd been eyeing this set for some time, and I had put it off continually but I couldn't pass it up any longer when I saw it had been clearanced out at this price.
I've owned a couple of Panny plasmas prior to this, and I have to say the picture on this is hands down the best I've ever owned. I know the UT50 is a superior set but I didn't need all the bells and whistles, just a killer panel.
One thing has really mystified me, though: this set, while having better blacks and color and everything else than any of the other Panny sets I've owned, has one thing that I never noticed as bad on the others:
COLOR BANDING... wherever there's a color gradient I get a really rough transition in shades that creates a really nasty solarization effect.
Why is it so noticeable on this set? Everything about this set is perfect except for this. It's very annoying, especially when watching animation or playing video games, where it seems very noticeable.
Does anyone know if this is normal for this set or if there's anything I can do to help remedy it?
I know this is an older set but can anyone help?
TV: Samsung PN51F5300
Receiver: Pioneer VSX-921-K
Speakers: Fronts: Sony SS-F6000, Center: Sony SS-CN5000 , Rears: Sony SS-B1000, Sub: Sony SA-W3000
Just posting here to let you guys know my 42UT50 is up for sale. Love the TV and it's in perfect condition but I now need something bigger for my viewing distance. Let me know if you're interested. Not in any rush to sell either.
Just got the SS board replaced on my UT50 (8 blinks). Part cost $17 and labour was $110. Thankfully Panasonic is covering the cost of labour and parts even after the warranty has expired. I love Panasonic Canada.
I'm now wondering if the colors on the UT50 are accurate.
I've noticed that skin-tones tend to be too golden so I usually turn down the tint a little to add some pink to the skin.
However when adjusted every once in awhile I get a shock when a red car or a red light comes onscreen and it's pinkish or orange-like.
Last night I watched a movie off my laptop connected to my Panny (through an HDMI cable) and while the skin-tones and colors look accurate on my laptop they looked off on my Panny.
Antonio Bandarras was clearly wearing a classic light blue shirt while on the Panny it was turquoise .
To make the shirt blue I had to turn the tint all the way up making his skin green.
Has anyone else experienced this and can anything be done?
Perhaps most intriguing is that these bands are visible when the set is off. I can very clearly see them in the day if I get up close or shine a flashlight on the screen.
While it was working, this TV was possibly the best I have ever used or viewed, certainly the best I had ever owned. However, it clearly only lasted me 2 years, which is thoroughly disappointing - especially for such a pricey set (~$1200 at the time)...
I did have the BestBuy insurance coverage, so I have ultimately selected a replacement TV, but it is far different. Panasonic has given up on plasmas, and the technology in general offers few options these days. It was a horrendous hassle, and included waiting 60 days for a replacement part that was "coming" - yeah right... I repeatedly rescheduled GeekSquad appointments weekly for 2 months while the manufacturer's shipment of the replacement part was delayed, and delayed, and delayed, until finally I was told it was permanently unavailable.
Dissimilar as it is, I now have a Sharp 60SQ15U, which is a very nice set. I don't have it quite dialed in yet in terms of calibration/settings, but the blacks are nice and uniformly dark, the colors are quite vivid, and the motion is very smooth (even with the Soap Opera effect laden motion smoothing disabled). It looked amazing in the store, and I hope to get mine set up to do the same. Happy so far, though still sad we lost our UT50 so soon. RIP plasmas, you will be missed.
Just wanted to share, since this was a fairly "common" problem on the UT50 line, apparently. Amazing TV + tiny lifespan = not a good TV.
Picture Mode : Custom
Contrast : +78
Brightness : +55
Color : +39
Tint : 0
Color Temp: Normal
Color Mgmt.: Off
Video NR: Auto
HDMI/DVI RGB Range: Auto
Content Type: Graphics
Block NR: On
Mosquito NR: On
Motion Smoother: Weak
Black Level: Light
3:2 pulldown: Auto
The Delta E values were slightly elevated.
These were the previous settings on my display.
The new calibration had the Delta E values all under 3.
The Delta E values for color were pretty good, too. Only green was just a little bit over 3.
These are the new settings I used.
Cool for 3D
R Cut 7F
G Cut 6E
B Cut 5E
R Drive DB
G Drive FF
B Drive A4
The caveat to all my calibrations are that my colorimeter is as calibrated as when I last did a calibration. I used an i-1 Display Pro colorimeter, I don't have access to a spectophotometer to calibrate the colorimeter, so I hope this yields better results. Maybe one day I'll own an i1 Pro.
I don't know if this is important but my Internet and Cable come from the same router (server)
Last edited by Baron Blood; 02-22-2015 at 10:23 PM. Reason: Edited for different question.
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