Panasonic 2012 TC-PxxST50 Settings Thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 32 Old 04-27-2012, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Please Post your settings here. I'll start with a few that are posted on the web. All credit goes to D-Nice and C-NET for the following-




CNET Review Settings:
--Picture menu
Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: +82
Brightness: +60
Color: +46
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color temp: Warm 2
Color mgmt: Off [grayed out]
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: Off

-- Pro settings submenu
Color space: Normal
W/B high R: +10
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +3
W/B low R: +4
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: -2
Black extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.6
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

-- Aspect adjustments submenu
Screen format: Full
HD size: Size 2
H size: [grayed out]
Zoom adjustments: [grayed out]

-- HDMI settings: [no change from default]

--Advanced picture submenu
3D Y/C filter: Off [grayed out]
Color matrix: HD [grayed out]
Block NR: Off [grayed out]
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion smoother: Off
Black level: Light
3:2 pulldown: On
24p Direct in: 60Hz
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post #2 of 32 Old 04-28-2012, 05:27 AM
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Thank you for the cnet settings. I'm currently using D-Nice's settings which are a bit dim for daily use but great at night.

Any comment on a preference between cnet's and D-Nice's settings?

3:2 isn't available to me on HDMI 1. I'm running HDMI from a scientific Atlanta HD DVR into a Monoprice switcher and then into the HDMI 1 slot.

Do I need to switch slots or is this not available from a cable box source?
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post #3 of 32 Old 04-28-2012, 05:32 AM
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We're supposed to "break-in" the sets before applying these settings, right?

If sso, does all of the information in these specific posts still apply, even though they're from 2007/2008?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post12383163

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post14472276

I just want to make sure I'm using the correct break-in DVD, etc.
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post #4 of 32 Old 04-28-2012, 06:56 AM
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C-net's calibrated settings are excellent in custom mode at night, but too dim for me in daytime. But I don't want to keep changing the custom settings, so can anyone suggest another mode with settings that approach the calibrated accuracy, but with a bit more brightness/contrast/pop for daytime viewing?
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post #5 of 32 Old 04-28-2012, 10:54 AM
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do you have a link (or PM) for D_nice settings
thanks
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post #6 of 32 Old 04-28-2012, 11:50 AM
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Took a quick peek yesterday at D'Nices pair of settings + one's from CNet, and IMPRESSION was that they seemed more similar than different.

Obviously panel-to-panel variations make any such "universal calibration settings" something of a crap shoot, but was encouraged by the apparent similarities...
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post #7 of 32 Old 04-29-2012, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dierkdr View Post

Took a quick peek yesterday at D'Nices pair of settings + one's from CNet, and IMPRESSION was that they seemed more similar than different.

Obviously panel-to-panel variations make any such "universal calibration settings" something of a crap shoot, but was encouraged by the apparent similarities...

i agree , they are extremely similar, aside from these settings:

W/B high R:
W/B high B:
W/B low R:
W/B low B:
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post #8 of 32 Old 04-29-2012, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davelanger View Post

do you have a link (or PM) for D_nice settings
thanks

Links to that are blocked (also via PM i believe).

To find them, go to the 2nd post in the Official ST50 thread for info.

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TC-P55ST60, TC-P50GT50, TC-P46G10, TH-42PZ700U, TH-42PX50U, HP LC2600N, TiVo Series3, TWC Cisco 8742HDC DVR, Onkyo TX-SR333, URC R40 Remote.

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post #9 of 32 Old 04-29-2012, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhp612 View Post

CNET Review Settings

jhp612, where in the CNET reviews do they post the actual settings used? For example in this review of the ST50 I don't see them...
link
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post #10 of 32 Old 04-29-2012, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syswei View Post

jhp612, where in the CNET reviews do they post the actual settings used? For example in this review of the ST50 I don't see them...
link

David Katzmaier (CNET) settings link:

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_10...ateThreadPopup
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post #11 of 32 Old 04-29-2012, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Shifter View Post

David Katzmaier (CNET) settings link:

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_10...ateThreadPopup

Thanks!
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post #12 of 32 Old 04-30-2012, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikediamond View Post

C-net's calibrated settings are excellent in custom mode at night, but too dim for me in daytime. But I don't want to keep changing the custom settings, so can anyone suggest another mode with settings that approach the calibrated accuracy, but with a bit more brightness/contrast/pop for daytime viewing?

I'm replying to my own post. Just wanted to add that I've been simply using cinema mode on default settings for daytime and its quite good, much brighter with good pop, than custom mode after calibration.
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post #13 of 32 Old 05-01-2012, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
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I've started the same as well but will probably increase contrast and brightness a bit
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post #14 of 32 Old 05-02-2012, 09:37 AM
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Does anybody have any recommendations for 3D mode at night? I tried CNET's settings and then just bumped up the contrast and brightness about 10 points each, but while that helps, I don't think it's the perfect solution because as you increase brightness and contrast the brighter areas will start to wash out. What are others using?

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post #15 of 32 Old 05-03-2012, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Does anybody have any recommendations for 3D mode at night? I tried CNET's settings and then just bumped up the contrast and brightness about 10 points each, but while that helps, I don't think it's the perfect solution because as you increase brightness and contrast the brighter areas will start to wash out. What are others using?

yeah 3d mode is tough (i'd like to hear some people's optimal settings for 3d mode, and also about their various 3d settings in the other menus) because the glasses make it so dark, i find that i really have to have a super bright screen for it to look OK, last night I was using game mode on default in 3d mode while watching avatar 3d, and it looked good. after experimenting with various picture modes with the glasses on, I think it looks best on settings that would be considered almost torch mode without the glasses. definitely not an accurate picture though when cranked up that high.
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post #16 of 32 Old 05-11-2012, 08:39 PM
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I can't believe more people don't have any info or recommendations on 3D mode settings. Doesn't anybody here watch 3D, or is everybody just stumped like I am on how to achieve the best image with the glasses on?

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post #17 of 32 Old 05-12-2012, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I can't believe more people don't have any info or recommendations on 3D mode settings. Doesn't anybody here watch 3D, or is everybody just stumped like I am on how to achieve the best image with the glasses on?

I'm stumped. I was messing around with 3d settings yesterday, but couldn't settle on any particular settings. I am also having trouble finding good settings for standard mode (for daytime viewing). Cinema mode on default is what I've been using, but I'm starting to think I'd like a bit more "pop" in the daytime. The problem is, on standard mode, if you turn the contrast up too high, faces start looking washed out.
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post #18 of 32 Old 05-12-2012, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dierkdr View Post

Took a quick peek yesterday at D'Nices pair of settings + one's from CNet, and IMPRESSION was that they seemed more similar than different.

Obviously panel-to-panel variations make any such "universal calibration settings" something of a crap shoot, but was encouraged by the apparent similarities...

They're not similar at all... the differences between the two would make the grayscale look considerably different.

I don't know what meter Cnet uses, but I've tried their settings in the past and have found their settings to have a red/orange tint. This was made especially clear to me when I actually got my own meter and calibrated myself. Just comparing D-Nice's settings with Cnet, it seems like this would be the case again.
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post #19 of 32 Old 05-14-2012, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

They're not similar at all... the differences between the two would make the grayscale look considerably different.

I don't know what meter Cnet uses, but I've tried their settings in the past and have found their settings to have a red/orange tint. This was made especially clear to me when I actually got my own meter and calibrated myself. Just comparing D-Nice's settings with Cnet, it seems like this would be the case again.

yes, I've switched back and forth between dnice and cnet settings, and I agree, cnet's settings colors seem a bit too red to me, especially on people's faces. however, i found cnet's settings for brightness=60 to work better for me (more details visible) in dark scenes of game of thrones last night, while contrast seems to work best at 80 for me. (cnet's contrast = 82 is a bit too high imo)
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post #20 of 32 Old 05-14-2012, 07:16 AM
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I also bumped up my brightness to 60 last week and tend to enjoy it a bit more that way.
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post #21 of 32 Old 05-14-2012, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikediamond View Post

yes, I've switched back and forth between dnice and cnet settings, and I agree, cnet's settings colors seem a bit too red to me, especially on people's faces. however, i found cnet's settings for brightness=60 to work better for me (more details visible) in dark scenes of game of thrones last night, while contrast seems to work best at 80 for me. (cnet's contrast = 82 is a bit too high imo)

I am doing the opposite and cranking the contrast to 100 and brightness down to 43. This looks beautiful. The 85/60 setting from c-net crushed some whites like smoke and clouds and lost detail in blacks, not sure why you would ever want to limit your contrast range like that.
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post #22 of 32 Old 05-14-2012, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikediamond View Post

I'm stumped. I was messing around with 3d settings yesterday, but couldn't settle on any particular settings. I am also having trouble finding good settings for standard mode (for daytime viewing). Cinema mode on default is what I've been using, but I'm starting to think I'd like a bit more "pop" in the daytime. The problem is, on standard mode, if you turn the contrast up too high, faces start looking washed out.

I noticed a few things with the 3D settings I have.

First the 3D popout on my BDT-320 seems to do nothing but make the 3D worse the higher you turn it up. The depth of field actually seems best when set to 0, and gets progressively more narrow and blurry when you turn it up. I would expect the blurr, but figured the depth of field would grow not shrink.

Second was that I noticed the 24p output with pulldown left extra crosstalk on the closest 3d layers. It was still there when I set my 320 to output 60hz, but noticably improved.

Third is the contrast and brightness balance which I noticed is better off left alone. Sure the screen gets dimmer with the glasses on, but the blacks still look good if not better, and the brights are more dis-colored than dimmed, which brings me to..,

Fourth is the color settings. I haven't played enough yet with these, and I don't have any quantifiable way of tuning them other than just personnal preference. It seems Warm2 adjusts away a lot of the blue shift, but I would imagine changing the Gamma would be a better place to start.

So all in all I am very impressed with the 3D. Of coarse I came in with low expectations, and am not a 3D fan, but I am enjoying it much more than I thought I would. My biggest nitpick is crosstalk in the closest and fastest moving elements. It seems when objects come at you they go blurry/cross-talky before they reach their visual peak, especially if they are fast moving. The popcorn in the schoolhouse scene of Megamind comes to mind! The same small eliments with slower more controlled motion (like the dirt falling off the alien robot in Monsters Vs Aliens as the president retreats) look awesome for example. I haven't had a chance to see any of the "superior" samsung active 3D sets other than in the store, but from watching I can't imagine what they could do better except the very small/fast moving details I described. I imagine this is indeed the difference in reviews. Hopefully some future firmware can improve on this, but it really is nitpicking to me.
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post #23 of 32 Old 05-14-2012, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikediamond View Post

yes, I've switched back and forth between dnice and cnet settings, and I agree, cnet's settings colors seem a bit too red to me, especially on people's faces. however, i found cnet's settings for brightness=60 to work better for me (more details visible) in dark scenes of game of thrones last night, while contrast seems to work best at 80 for me. (cnet's contrast = 82 is a bit too high imo)

I understand you're coming from an LCD. Contrast is not like the backlight settings on lcd/led. Contrast controls white and Brightness controls blacks & shadow details. It seems that you have these two backwards. What is more similar to backlight is the panel brightness setting which should be set to low or mid.

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post #24 of 32 Old 05-14-2012, 11:29 AM
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Changing the contrast and brightness affects everything; color, gamma, grayscale, shadow detail and white detail. Contrast should be set so that there's no shift in the grayscale or color, you don't experience eye strain, or there's no clipping of any white detail. If you don't see any of this, then you can set it as high as you want. Brightness should be set with something like a pluge pattern so that only above black is visible. That's one of the nice things about LCDs and the backlight control as it has essentially no affect on everything else.

Feel free to change Cnet or D-Nice's settings, but know that your changes are affecting other things. I wouldn't go too far from their respective settings. But as long as it looks good to you, that's all that matters.

@HD70GUY, your changes would create a more punchy picture, but you're probably crushing both white and shadow detail. Not to mention a higher contrast and lower brightness makes the set more susceptible to image retention/burn in.
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post #25 of 32 Old 05-14-2012, 12:30 PM
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Yeah, I am definitely straying from optimal color (if I ever was there with the C-Net settings) by bumping up the contrast. I did set the contrast and brightness with a pluge pattern though, and am not crushing either. The C-Net settings were crushing white and washing out black. The dark lines on the standard pluge did disappear, but the gradient pluge was showing striping and went full black before the end. The white end was not striping, but did go full white well before the end. I know I'm not at optimal callibration, but the contrast is improved. Color is the harder thing to achieve without ISF equipment, but it is close enough by my eyes for right now. After I have a few hundred hours on the set I will try and look into a professional calibration or even buy a meter.
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post #26 of 32 Old 05-17-2012, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HD70GUY View Post

Yeah, I am definitely straying from optimal color (if I ever was there with the C-Net settings) by bumping up the contrast. I did set the contrast and brightness with a pluge pattern though, and am not crushing either. The C-Net settings were crushing white and washing out black. The dark lines on the standard pluge did disappear, but the gradient pluge was showing striping and went full black before the end. The white end was not striping, but did go full white well before the end. I know I'm not at optimal callibration, but the contrast is improved. Color is the harder thing to achieve without ISF equipment, but it is close enough by my eyes for right now. After I have a few hundred hours on the set I will try and look into a professional calibration or even buy a meter.

Okay so I have to correct myself here. I did set up with a pluge pattern, but I did it before applying the C-net color settings. When I went back to check the black level does indeed crush at 43 and needs to be between 55 and 60 to look right. I am definitley getting better results to my eye with 100 contrast as opposed to 84 though.

I'm no expert so if there is a downside to such high contrast that I can't see with a pluge, what test should I be doing to double check?
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post #27 of 32 Old 05-17-2012, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by HD70GUY View Post

Okay so I have to correct myself here. I did set up with a pluge pattern, but I did it before applying the C-net color settings. When I went back to check the black level does indeed crush at 43 and needs to be between 55 and 60 to look right. I am definitley getting better results to my eye with 100 contrast as opposed to 84 though.

I'm no expert so if there is a downside to such high contrast that I can't see with a pluge, what test should I be doing to double check?

I think test patterns may be deceptive when calibrating a plasma due to the way plasmas allocate power to specific areas of the screen based on what is being displayed, but I may be wrong and am far from an expert.
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post #28 of 32 Old 05-18-2012, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mikediamond View Post

I think test patterns may be deceptive when calibrating a plasma due to the way plasmas allocate power to specific areas of the screen based on what is being displayed, but I may be wrong and am far from an expert.

Sounds reasonable, I just wonder what test I can run to see if I am crushing white in dynamic scenes.
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post #29 of 32 Old 05-19-2012, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by HD70GUY View Post

Sounds reasonable, I just wonder what test I can run to see if I am crushing white in dynamic scenes.

yeah i'm having trouble finding good daytime settings for standard mode that doesnt crush whites
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post #30 of 32 Old 05-23-2012, 12:57 PM
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Anything in the service menu that can help better calibrate the tv?
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