Originally Posted by Iron Mike
great info, few follow up questions:
> tint 50 ? I had mine set to 0, gotta try that
> did u ever try warm 2 ? I remember Chad B recommended that once, but that was for traditional 6-point calibration...
> what's the idea about locking in 30 & 100 IRE in before auto cal and why do you say it's tricky ?
> why do Sat, Lum & Hue need to be preset to 50% in CM ?
50 should be the default number, right in the middle (0-100). That you leave at default.
Yes I have tried warm 2 but that has to low of a color temp setting comes in around 59K, and it tends to have a slight pink overtone in the finalized settings. When I do a manual 6 point calibration my go to is warm 1 gamma 2.2 and I sometimes use neutral higher color temp (70K) with a gamma target of 2.4 but I don't recommend using neutral with autocal.
It helps audtocal do its thing by setting those two points, just like it would doing a manual calibration. It also sets your white point (100%) therefore reducing the chance for clipping white. The tricky part is you need to put these two settings in your VT50 not in your Mini and you need to set them so autocal will not think there is a need to change the RGB at these two points, so it doesn't write to the Mini and add settings for these two points. It is for this reason and others you need to set your error level for grayscale and CMS so autocal will not over process or under process your grayscale or CMS. Plus I don't like changing Green when doing a grayscale calibration so its just two points that green will not be changed.
For any calibration manual or auto you always want to start from a neutral point when running a gamut CMS, so you can get your primary's (RGB) and secondary's (CMY) to there best points in a CIE chart (numbers included) and therefore have a very good balance between your primary's and secondary's along with getting these points to there ideal point on the CIE chart to maximize your colors and lum.
On a side note CM has fixed the bug in there CMS default settings and it now reads 50/50/50, not 50/100/100.
Calibration is all about balancing all of the above so every setting is optimize and in harmony with all other settings.
This is the big plus we DIY calibrators have over a so called pro calibrator, we can experiment with these setting on are TV's thereby ending up with a better calibration. Of-course you still need good meters and good knowledge of how this all works. Using the new tools like the Mini 3D and the auto LUT 125 point cube workflow, it makes the calibration process a lot easier to learn and use.