Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 340 - AVS Forum
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post #10171 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 04:09 PM
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Yes if you do nothing else, take chunon's advice! Hdmi should not be monster. Monster only had an edge for a moment in time when RCAs were the way to go.
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post #10172 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 04:19 PM
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The only cables I have ever owned that broke/ stopped working were monster. Complete waste of $

Indecision may or may not be my problem.
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post #10173 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 04:28 PM
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And probably 10 times the price as excellent ones from monoprice.com
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post #10174 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 04:59 PM
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So to be clear on a couple of things:

1) I have a VT50. When ambient light hits the screen directly, the problem viewing spots are more or less angular to the reflection. In other words, if sunlight comes from the side window and hits at 45 degrees, the reflections kind of suck 45 degrees off the other side. But at that same instant, looking straight at the TV it looks really good.

Similarly, there is lighting in my kitchen that can reflect directly off the TV. When sitting on axis, you can see that lighting reflecting. Sitting off axis, you more or less cannot. The lighting reflects exactly where you'd intuit it would if the light was a tennis ball bouncing off the screen.

I hope this helps.

2) It's actually hard to believe someone could make bad counterfeit HDMI cables. But it's not even slightly hard to believe someone is still overpaying for Monster Cables in spite of all the evidence.

Even Monoprice is guilty of selling more expensive cables than needed, but at least they (a) offer super cheap cables and (b) don't encourage you to overbuy when you visit their web site.

For nearly all HDMI uses -- i.e distances of 10 feet and under -- the cheapest Monoprice cable will work for every purpose. These: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024008&p_id=3956&seq=1&format=2

(In many colors, by the way)

For longer distances, typically the "standard speed" cables still work, but if you are running a 30-foot cable to a projector, they will sell you a fancy 'RedMere' cable for a $20 premium over the standard speed (the RedMere is high-speed rated)... On a $3000 projector, it's probably worth $20 for peace of mind....

The point is that 30-foot cable is $45-46 depending on whether you get slim or "ultra-slim" (a slightly thinner gauge wire).

This 4-foot Monster Cable is $60 at Best Buy: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Monster+-+900HDX+4'+HDMI+Cable/2319258.p?id=1218320818678&skuId=2319258

It does nothing that the first cable I linked does not do. Absolutely nothing.

Monoprice's 4-foot cable is $3 for the basic, high-speed. Their 6-foot RedMere (which, again, you never need) is $14.

They are quite possibly better built than Monster's cables.

I know people think you get something for your money from Monster. You do not. Really, you do not. Not quality. Not performance. Not peace of mind.

You get a lot of bogus marketing claims on the packaging (90% of what's printed on the packaging is typically false, misleading or irrelevant) and you enrich the retailer.

I have no affiliation with Monoprice, except as a customer.

There is no difference in HDMI cables. If you can see the picture without visible dropouts or sparklies, the cable is working at 100%. No other cable will display a better version of that picture. You're simply wrong if you think there is a better digital cable than one that is already working.
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post #10175 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Monoprice is your friend

Or Mediabridge.
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post #10176 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by tcramer View Post

Well said smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

So I normally view EWs as tax on the stupid. However, at 99$ I was stupid enough to buy the extra 3 yr ST EW from Costco as well smile.gif

I had my 65" DLP serviced at 3.5 yrs after it developed a terrible high pitched noise while on. They replaced the color wheel drive unit. It would have cost $800 to have replaced according to the tech if it wasn't covered under an extended warranty.
My brother had a TV replaced under warranty and I have had a refrigerator fan motor and compressor replaced under warranty.
They have proven worth it for me.
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post #10177 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 06:24 PM
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Hi, my 65vt50 was just hooked up today by the geek squad and a few things I have noticed are a delay when changing channels and the the screen three times today turned red and if you change the stAtion it was blue with pixels across the bottom. Why would this happen? Was something hooked up wrong or could it be a defect?
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post #10178 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 06:27 PM
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Hi everybody,

I'm this close to pulling the trigger on upgrading my 11-year old Toshiba 36-inch HD CRT TV. I have a Monster power surge protector that I've used on the TV. Actually saved my current TV when there was power surge many years ago - it took the hit, was fried, and Monster replaced it. Will I be able to still use this or is an upgrade neede? My apologies if this is a stupid question.

Also, I'm looking for the best soundbar that I can get at an affordable price. There is a Panasonic soundbar for $200-$300, which is around my price range. I've seen some decent reviews for others (CNEt, etc.), but I figured the Panasonic, which doesn't seem bad, would be a good choice for compatibility. Any suggestions?

Thanks! Everyone's insight on this site has been an invaluable resource
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post #10179 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 06:52 PM
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Hey everyone, I've looked everywhere for the answer to this. There are some posts about it but I haven't found the answer I'm looking for yet.

I have the VT65, just got it, love it so far (although it replaces the st65 which only lasted a year). But I have a Harmon Kardon 2600 7.1 receiver which does not support ARC.

Can I still make sound from Netflix come through my receiver? No luck so far. I tried to hook an optic cable from the output on the tv to the front optic jack on the receiver with same results.

So is it a setting on the receiver I need to look for with the optic cable or is there no way to do it without a receiver that supports ARC?

My HDMI cable is from 2006 (already in the wall when I bought the house) but the picture quality is unbelievable so I don't think it's that.

Thanks!
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post #10180 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easywind View Post

Hi everybody,

I'm this close to pulling the trigger on upgrading my 11-year old Toshiba 36-inch HD CRT TV. I have a Monster power surge protector that I've used on the TV. Actually saved my current TV when there was power surge many years ago - it took the hit, was fried, and Monster replaced it. Will I be able to still use this or is an upgrade neede? My apologies if this is a stupid question.

Also, I'm looking for the best soundbar that I can get at an affordable price. There is a Panasonic soundbar for $200-$300, which is around my price range. I've seen some decent reviews for others (CNEt, etc.), but I figured the Panasonic, which doesn't seem bad, would be a good choice for compatibility. Any suggestions?

Thanks! Everyone's insight on this site has been an invaluable resource
That surge protector will work fine.

No, Mr. Bond. I expect you to die!
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post #10181 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2009fatbob View Post

Hey everyone, I've looked everywhere for the answer to this. There are some posts about it but I haven't found the answer I'm looking for yet.

I have the VT65, just got it, love it so far (although it replaces the st65 which only lasted a year). But I have a Harmon Kardon 2600 7.1 receiver which does not support ARC.

Can I still make sound from Netflix come through my receiver? No luck so far. I tried to hook an optic cable from the output on the tv to the front optic jack on the receiver with same results.

So is it a setting on the receiver I need to look for with the optic cable or is there no way to do it without a receiver that supports ARC?

My HDMI cable is from 2006 (already in the wall when I bought the house) but the picture quality is unbelievable so I don't think it's that.

Thanks!
You should be able to get sound with the digi op cable without changing any settings on the tv. So whatever the issue is will be with the receiver.

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post #10182 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 07:23 PM
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I am about to pull the trigger on a 65" VT50. I have been searching all over for the VESA pattern on the VT50 but can't find it anywhere. Does anyone know?

My dilemna is I currently have a Bello 8315 (http://www.bello.com/index.php?partition=show_product&prod_id=218&categ_id=63) mount for my Samsung LN52B750 which the VT50 will be replacing. The Bello mount has a 200lbs max weight, so it should be plenty strong. But it's designed for a max screen size of 52" and I don't know if it will be compatible with the 65" VT50.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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post #10183 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2009fatbob View Post

I have the VT65, just got it, love it so far (although it replaces the st65 which only lasted a year).
I think what you must have is a 65VT50. wink.gif
Quote:
But I have a Harmon Kardon 2600 7.1 receiver which does not support ARC.

Can I still make sound from Netflix come through my receiver? No luck so far. I tried to hook an optic cable from the output on the tv to the front optic jack on the receiver with same results.

So is it a setting on the receiver I need to look for with the optic cable or is there no way to do it without a receiver that supports ARC?

My HDMI cable is from 2006 (already in the wall when I bought the house) but the picture quality is unbelievable so I don't think it's that.

Thanks!
I don't know if you can do Netflix with 5.1 audio unless you have ARC in your AVR. But, I do know that you can use something like a Roku or a Blu-ray player with Netflix and go through your AVR for audio, and then on to the TV using HDMI for video..
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post #10184 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I think what you must have is a 65VT50. wink.gif
I don't know if you can do Netflix with 5.1 audio unless you have ARC in your AVR. But, I do know that you can use something like a Roku or a Blu-ray player with Netflix and go through your AVR for audio, and then on to the TV using HDMI for video..
You can get 5.1 front the digit op cable for Viera apps. It just will not support lossless (Dolby Digital Master Audio and Dolby True HD). Which you are not going to get from the Viera apps anyway. I really don't see any advantage to ARC. I have arc capable everything and I don't use it and Im not missing out on anything. Most of the time it is finicky and doesn't work right all the time and is more trouble than its worth.

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post #10185 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I think what you must have is a 65VT50. wink.gif


I knew you'd know what I meant...smile.gif

Anyway thanks for your replies. I was trying to avoid buying a different blu ray player and thought for the extra cash for this tv I could utilize the extras.

We have a playstation hooked up to the system which will supply Netflix but my son will be taking that with him soon!
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post #10186 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 09:15 PM
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Got a 65vt50 a week ago and tried some gaming today. Madden 13 on Ps3 only one 6 minute quarter and afterwards checked for ir. To my dismay the hud screen where the score is displayed remained imprinted on my screen. I was able to clear it with about half an hour worth of scrolling. But it still troubles me. It is a December 2012 build and was wondering if anyone has this same issue? Does it get less prone to ir after a while? I am a gamer and my kids like to watch Nickelodeon with its static logo and I'm worried my panel might be especially sensitive to ir. Should I return and exchange my set? Please help.
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post #10187 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipoop2much View Post

Got a 65vt50 a week ago and tried some gaming today. Madden 13 on Ps3 only one 6 minute quarter and afterwards checked for ir. To my dismay the hud screen where the score is displayed remained imprinted on my screen. I was able to clear it with about half an hour worth of scrolling. But it still troubles me. It is a December 2012 build and was wondering if anyone has this same issue? Does it get less prone to ir after a while? I am a gamer and my kids like to watch Nickelodeon with its static logo and I'm worried my panel might be especially sensitive to ir. Should I return and exchange my set? Please help.
Exactly how and why did you check it? If you did so with slides. Just return the set. Better yet. Go led. EVERY SINGLE PLASMA is going to get IR. If you plan on running a slide after every time you play a game. Take it back and go to led. Retuning it for another plasma won't change a thing.
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post #10188 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 11:05 PM
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+1

Panny 65VT50 / DTV Genie / OPPO 103 / Roku 3 / Denon 1613 / Klipsch Quintet 5.0
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post #10189 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 11:11 PM
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I've owned 4 plasmas in the last 5 years. The last one was a sammy 64d8000. In the time I owned these plasmas I only witnessed one case of ir. It was a 2009 Panasonic s1. It was after an hour of playing halo wars. I was simply asking if this series is more susceptible to ir, a question undeserving of your rudeness. But I thank you for the response.
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Exactly how and why did you check it? If you did so with slides. Just return the set. Better yet. Go led. EVERY SINGLE PLASMA is going to get IR. If you plan on running a slide after every time you play a game. Take it back and go to led. Retuning it for another plasma won't change a thing.
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post #10190 of 13655 Old 02-11-2013, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easywind View Post

Hi everybody,

I'm this close to pulling the trigger on upgrading my 11-year old Toshiba 36-inch HD CRT TV. I have a Monster power surge protector that I've used on the TV. Actually saved my current TV when there was power surge many years ago - it took the hit, was fried, and Monster replaced it. Will I be able to still use this or is an upgrade neede? My apologies if this is a stupid question.

Also, I'm looking for the best soundbar that I can get at an affordable price. There is a Panasonic soundbar for $200-$300, which is around my price range. I've seen some decent reviews for others (CNEt, etc.), but I figured the Panasonic, which doesn't seem bad, would be a good choice for compatibility. Any suggestions?

Thanks! Everyone's insight on this site has been an invaluable resource

I would first try to like the VT50's speakers, getting a soundbar like the Panasonic bar still will only get you 2 or 2.1Ch, plus no lossless decoder.
You may want to look at the soundbar thread to get a better idea of what suits your needs better. I use a Yamaha YSP 2200 Digital Sound Projector that is up to 7.1, ARC, 3D compatible, decodes lossless sound tracks, three HDMI ports in and one out. There are two downsides, the Sub is not wireless and to wall mount it you need two wall mount brackets. I am not suggesting any sound bar, just trying to give you a idea of what to look for.

ss
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post #10191 of 13655 Old 02-12-2013, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2009fatbob View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I think what you must have is a 65VT50. wink.gif


I knew you'd know what I meant...smile.gif
I did know what you meant, but I wouldn't always count on it. I've been around for a very very long time. eek.gif
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post #10192 of 13655 Old 02-12-2013, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipoop2much View Post

Got a 65vt50 a week ago and tried some gaming today. Madden 13 on Ps3 only one 6 minute quarter and afterwards checked for ir.
What method did you use to see the IR?
Quote:
To my dismay the hud screen where the score is displayed remained imprinted on my screen. I was able to clear it with about half an hour worth of scrolling.
If you had gone on to watch regular programming, or maybe a movie with an aspect ratio of 1.78:1 (16x9), you would have never found any IR.
Quote:
But it still troubles me. It is a December 2012 build and was wondering if anyone has this same issue?
Yes, other plasma owners have reacted in ways very similar to you. It has nothing to do with the individual plasma display. The secret to contentment with a plasma display is to have viewing habits that include a wide range of source material, and to avoid long periods of time where the same fixed image is constantly on the screen in the same spot.
Quote:
Does it get less prone to ir after a while?
The phosphors that make the colors age as they do their job. With age your display loses brightness and has less phosphors to burn. The fastest burn rate is when a panel is new. I think the standard for newer models is to lose half their brightness after 100,000 hours on average. Of course every few years you can adjust the contrast and brightness controls with a calibration disk like Disney's WoW, and you will never notice the gradual loss of brightness. smile.gif
Quote:
I am a gamer and my kids like to watch Nickelodeon with its static logo and I'm worried my panel might be especially sensitive to ir.
If you do nothing but gaming and Nickelodeon, then I would say that plasma might not be for you. If you set limits on how much your kids get to watch TV, and on how many hours you're gaming, and you watch a lot of other kinds of material, then I think you will be fine.
Quote:
Should I return and exchange my set? Please help.
Maybe. But you should analyze your viewing habits first, and check out the pros and cons of edge lit LED LCD displays. Second, you shouldn't ask that question in a forum like this one unless you think your display is broken. Your display is fine, and if it fits how you're going to use it then you're fine too.

If you did use colored or white slides to look for IR, and you find that you can't resist doing that frequently, then it may be LCD time.

My 60" Kuro plasma is over five years old. Last summer, when a discussion like this was going on, I hauled out D-Nice's slides and checked for IR. There was none.

My wife and I watch a lot of NFL games, all the local NHL games that my wife doesn't attend, and six or seven Netflix shinny disk movies a week. Most of the movies have black bars, but many of them don't. We also watch the local PBS channel, ESPN and NFL network. That's a lot of fixed images and black bars, but they are always moving to new locations on the screen. Except for the NFL and NHL games, the fixed images are never in the exact same place for more than an hour or two.

The amount of time it takes a specific image to fade away is generally longer than the time it takes for that same image to linger on your screen. The time involved shouldn't matter if you can't see the IR when you're watching your other programs.
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post #10193 of 13655 Old 02-12-2013, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MenaceAVS View Post

I am about to pull the trigger on a 65" VT50. I have been searching all over for the VESA pattern on the VT50 but can't find it anywhere. Does anyone know?
Check the manual section for "optional accessories"; you can download it from Panasonic's Web site. The mounting hole spacing on the 65" is 684 mm (26.9") wide by 300 mm (11.8") high. Note that the mounting holes are not centered on the vertical axis of the set, but shifted downward.
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post #10194 of 13655 Old 02-12-2013, 07:57 AM
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I don't believe the VT50 will "scale" the 1080i feed to 1080P, will it? That is what you are assuming in your question.

It is my understanding that all input (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i) is displayed as 1080p. So the VT50 "scale" or "deinterlace" 1080i to 1080p.

jdg
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post #10195 of 13655 Old 02-12-2013, 08:22 AM
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My 65VT50 does something similar to what you are describing.I had a tech come out a month ago and today it was determined that Panasonic is going to replace my set.For the price I paid for this set it should have been replaced a couple of weeks ago.I still have to wait for a phone call from Panasonic.Here are a couple of pics of what my set does IMG_0923.JPG 4132k .JPG file
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post #10196 of 13655 Old 02-12-2013, 08:31 AM
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Thank you kind sir. You have put my mind at ease. I didnt run slides to notice it I had simply quit the game and it was clear as day on the dashboard screen on the Ps3. I ran the scrolling bar to get rid of it. I do vary my content and would say normally I game about 30% of the time I am home. This was my first gaming experience on this tv which is why I reacted the way I did. Again thank you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

What method did you use to see the IR?
If you had gone on to watch regular programming, or maybe a movie with an aspect ratio of 1.78:1 (16x9), you would have never found any IR.
Yes, other plasma owners have reacted in ways very similar to you. It has nothing to do with the individual plasma display. The secret to contentment with a plasma display is to have viewing habits that include a wide range of source material, and to avoid long periods of time where the same fixed image is constantly on the screen in the same spot.
The phosphors that make the colors age as they do their job. With age your display loses brightness and has less phosphors to burn. The fastest burn rate is when a panel is new. I think the standard for newer models is to lose half their brightness after 100,000 hours on average. Of course every few years you can adjust the contrast and brightness controls with a calibration disk like Disney's WoW, and you will never notice the gradual loss of brightness. smile.gif
If you do nothing but gaming and Nickelodeon, then I would say that plasma might not be for you. If you set limits on how much your kids get to watch TV, and on how many hours you're gaming, and you watch a lot of other kinds of material, then I think you will be fine.
Maybe. But you should analyze your viewing habits first, and check out the pros and cons of edge lit LED LCD displays. Second, you shouldn't ask that question in a forum like this one unless you think your display is broken. Your display is fine, and if it fits how you're going to use it then you're fine too.

If you did use colored or white slides to look for IR, and you find that you can't resist doing that frequently, then it may be LCD time.

My 60" Kuro plasma is over five years old. Last summer, when a discussion like this was going on, I hauled out D-Nice's slides and checked for IR. There was none.

My wife and I watch a lot of NFL games, all the local NHL games that my wife doesn't attend, and six or seven Netflix shinny disk movies a week. Most of the movies have black bars, but many of them don't. We also watch the local PBS channel, ESPN and NFL network. That's a lot of fixed images and black bars, but they are always moving to new locations on the screen. Except for the NFL and NHL games, the fixed images are never in the exact same place for more than an hour or two.

The amount of time it takes a specific image to fade away is generally longer than the time it takes for that same image to linger on your screen. The time involved shouldn't matter if you can't see the IR when you're watching your other programs.
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post #10197 of 13655 Old 02-12-2013, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnDG View Post

It is my understanding that all input (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i) is displayed as 1080p. So the VT50 "scale" or "deinterlace" 1080i to 1080p.

jdg

You are probably correct. I've always thought of the VT50 as a display capable of displaying the resolution of the signal passed to it from a source, be that blu-ray, cable box, or AVR. Never thought it would take 1080i and make it 1080p within the panel electronics. Learn something every day!

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post #10198 of 13655 Old 02-12-2013, 09:04 AM
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Last night my dad asked for some help shopping for a new TV to replace an old 65" Mitsubishi Diamond rear projector. I was recently considering buying a new TV so I am familiar with what's out there so I gave him the lowdown on plasma vs. LED and the different makes and models. We went to Best Buy looking for the ST50 but they had no 65" Panasonics at all on site and no ST models even at the warehouse. What they did have at the warehouse was the VT50. biggrin.gif The price was surprisingly low for Best Buy so I advised that unless he wanted to wait a few months for the 2013 models he should make the purchase. A nice, shiny, new 65" VT50 will be delivered tomorrow and get to set it up. Needless to say, I'm quite excited.

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post #10199 of 13655 Old 02-12-2013, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by MenaceAVS View Post

I am about to pull the trigger on a 65" VT50. I have been searching all over for the VESA pattern on the VT50 but can't find it anywhere. Does anyone know?

The wall mounting pattern and dimensions are shown in the VT50 Quick Start Guide linked on Post#2 of the 2012 Lineup thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1386141/official-panasonic-2012-lineup-and-information-thread-no-price-talk#post_21467390

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post #10200 of 13655 Old 02-12-2013, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDG View Post

It is my understanding that all input (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i) is displayed as 1080p. So the VT50 "scale" or "deinterlace" 1080i to 1080p.

jdg
"Upscaling" and "Upconversion" are totally different things.

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