Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 343 - AVS Forum
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post #10261 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 07:27 AM
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Well, I swapped my Sharp Elite for the VT50 last week (thanks Magnolia). Now that I have blacked out the cheesy chrome border and dimmed the red power led, input some settings, I'm left with one new problem.......it is injecting 60 hz hum into the power in my theater room. My sub now hums with no input connected. Wasn't there with my Runco or Elite. I'm troubleshooting it now.
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post #10262 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 08:07 AM
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Just noticed some buzzing noise from the upper left side of the panel.
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post #10263 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davoe View Post

Well, I swapped my Sharp Elite for the VT50 last week (thanks Magnolia). Now that I have blacked out the cheesy chrome border and dimmed the red power led, input some settings, I'm left with one new problem.......it is injecting 60 hz hum into the power in my theater room. My sub now hums with no input connected. Wasn't there with my Runco or Elite. I'm troubleshooting it now.

Do you have any sort of power center outside of a standard surge suppressor? I recently got a Monster Power Center on clearance from BB and it has filtering between analog, digital and high current devices. This would "in theory" eliminate that problem. The warranty provided for electrical damage is a nice addition as well. I got the 1650, which is equivalent to the 1600 going for about $100-130 at the usual locations.
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post #10264 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Can anyone reccomend a good receiver for 250 or less? The one I have is rather old. Pretty sure I only need 5.1 as I only have 5 speakers. I know nothing of receivers. I just want one with HDMI so I can run my wires a little better
This is an excellent basic receiver and will bring you in under budget. It does everything practical that the Denon 1713 does except it is not a network receiver and it will save you $200.

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post #10265 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davoe View Post

Well, I swapped my Sharp Elite for the VT50 last week (thanks Magnolia). Now that I have blacked out the cheesy chrome border and dimmed the red power led, input some settings, I'm left with one new problem.......it is injecting 60 hz hum into the power in my theater room. My sub now hums with no input connected. Wasn't there with my Runco or Elite. I'm troubleshooting it now.
Unless you are already familiar with ground loops, now is the time to learn. Ground loops can be very tricky.
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post #10266 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davoe View Post

Well, I swapped my Sharp Elite for the VT50 last week (thanks Magnolia). Now that I have blacked out the cheesy chrome border and dimmed the red power led, input some settings, I'm left with one new problem.......it is injecting 60 hz hum into the power in my theater room. My sub now hums with no input connected. Wasn't there with my Runco or Elite. I'm troubleshooting it now.
You might consider this "ground lifter", which is a sure-fire way to eliminate ground loop hum.

Of course it also has the effect of eliminating ground for the device you plug into it, but it works great. Also called a "cheater plug". It's not normally recommended (and there are other much more expensive capacitative solutions, i.e. isolation transformers):

Cheater plugs are also used to break ground loops in audio systems.This practice has been condemned as disregarding electrical safety.

I still use it for a headphone amp in my sound system, which for some reason produced the ground loop hum being discussed when sharing the power strip other devices were also plugged into. Inserting this "lifter" solved the problem painlessly and inexpensively.

I think I picked up a few at a local hardware store for about $.25/each, so this one online is "expensive". But it was the solution for my ground loop hum.
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post #10267 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 12:10 PM
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In general, it's far better to find the source of a ground loop and fix it. Removing "ground" from the triggering device can cause unintended consequences. wink.gif
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post #10268 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by tcramer View Post

You looking for 5.1 or 7.1? If only 5.1, the Denon 1713 is hard to beat and can be had for $400 - $450.

I agree, I have the 1913 for my 7.1 and grabbed it when on sale for around 450. Been really pleased with it . If you don't have or not planning for 7.1 in the future then I'd consider the 1713 as an option.
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post #10269 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 05:06 PM
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I have asked a few people and no one knows the answer

my xbox 360 restarts every time I switch the input

if I am playing and I switch to a different input its fine, but when I switch back to the xbox 360 it restarts the console

I dont have this problem with my Pioneer Elite PRO-111FD or a Sony LED LCD from a few years ago, also my samsung LED LCD - its only the 65VT50 that does this

I have checked the power settings on the TV as well as the xbox 360 and nothing seems to stop this

I will be getting a receiver soon and I assume that will solve this problem since I am not switching the TV input but the receiver input but for now its a problem for me and has caused me to burn in some stuff because I didnt want to have the game restart without saving and I had to do something for a few

is this a HDCP handshake error causing the console to restart?

I want the retro skin back please
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post #10270 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftkidney View Post

I have asked a few people and no one knows the answer

my xbox 360 restarts every time I switch the input

if I am playing and I switch to a different input its fine, but when I switch back to the xbox 360 it restarts the console

I dont have this problem with my Pioneer Elite PRO-111FD or a Sony LED LCD from a few years ago, also my samsung LED LCD - its only the 65VT50 that does this

I have checked the power settings on the TV as well as the xbox 360 and nothing seems to stop this

I will be getting a receiver soon and I assume that will solve this problem since I am not switching the TV input but the receiver input but for now its a problem for me and has caused me to burn in some stuff because I didnt want to have the game restart without saving and I had to do something for a few

is this a HDCP handshake error causing the console to restart?

Is this at all related to what you're experiencing?

http://www.avforums.com/forums/xbox-360/633656-xbox-360-reboots-when-switching-hdmi-input.html
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post #10271 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davoe View Post

Well, I swapped my Sharp Elite for the VT50 last week (thanks Magnolia). Now that I have blacked out the cheesy chrome border and dimmed the red power led, input some settings, I'm left with one new problem.......it is injecting 60 hz hum into the power in my theater room. My sub now hums with no input connected. Wasn't there with my Runco or Elite. I'm troubleshooting it now.

Mine is causing my amp to buzz. I had everything plugged into a monster power conditioner that did not prevent the buzz. Actually, I now have my amp plugged into another outlet, on the same circuit, and there is less buzz. I am thinking about running a separate outlet just for my plasma.

Indecision may or may not be my problem.
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post #10272 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 06:09 PM
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Thanks for the recommendations. I have a 5.1 system. The 1613 was $50 less than the 1713 and looked very similar, so I ordered the 1613.

Panny 65VT50 / DTV Genie / OPPO 103 / Roku 3 / Denon 1613 / Klipsch Quintet 5.0
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post #10273 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Hi Deaf View Post

Thanks for the recommendations. I have a 5.1 system. The 1613 was $50 less than the 1713 and looked very similar, so I ordered the 1613.

I made a similar choice a year ago. However if i had to do it over and I'd have probably paid the extra 50 just to have the audyssey multieq xt based on how happy I've been with just the non xt version.
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post #10274 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mnc View Post

Mine is causing my amp to buzz. I had everything plugged into a monster power conditioner that did not prevent the buzz. Actually, I now have my amp plugged into another outlet, on the same circuit, and there is less buzz. I am thinking about running a separate outlet just for my plasma.

Hmm that's odd, likewise I have everything running into a monster power conditioner and get no buzz or any noise. Noise filter has been working really well for me. smile.gif
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post #10275 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnc View Post

Mine is causing my amp to buzz. I had everything plugged into a monster power conditioner that did not prevent the buzz. Actually, I now have my amp plugged into another outlet, on the same circuit, and there is less buzz. I am thinking about running a separate outlet just for my plasma.
Hmm....I never encountered any problems like that. But if you can afford it, I would recommend having two or more seperate electrical outlets that's at least 20amp each. If your like me who has a seperate amp and sub, I have three dedicated 20amp outlets. Two of my outlets are dedicated to my amp and sub and the other outlet is dedicated to my surge protector for my Plasma, pre-amp and other low wattage components. And also make sure that if your using two or more seperate outlets, make sure in your fuse box that there in the same main line and also make sure your fuse box is grounded properly. That should help out with any hum issues. Also, if you can use XLR's instead of RCA, the third pin in the XLR; which is a grounding pin, will help with any groud loop issues and should also help with hum issues. Though I'm not saying that XLR is better than RCA interconnects, but that extra pin on the XLR may make a difference to you. If your fuse box and electrical outlets are grounded properly, it also doesn't hurt to do some extra grounding on your own for your receiver and surge protector if they offer a grounding screw in the rear as my surge has an additional grounding screw on the back. I hope you can resolve your issues quickly. I wish you the best and have a great new year. wink.gif

P.S. On another note; as I've talked to my electric company and many different surge protection companies, they told me that when you connect a surge protector to any of your homes outlets, you will not get the true amps that outlets is setup for. For instance, a 20 amp outlet with a connected surge protector will be reduced to 16amps and a 15 amp outlet will be reduced to 11 total amps. So be careful not to overload your outlets and play it safe by installing 20amp our more amp outlets so overloading doesn't occurr. At 20 amps; technically it should provide up to 2400 watts of power. But realistically, if a surge is connected to a 20 amp outlet, you will be getting a maximum of 1920 watts. Anyway, good luck once again with everything. wink.gif
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post #10276 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davoe View Post

Well, I swapped my Sharp Elite for the VT50 last week (thanks Magnolia). Now that I have blacked out the cheesy chrome border and dimmed the red power led, input some settings, I'm left with one new problem.......it is injecting 60 hz hum into the power in my theater room. My sub now hums with no input connected. Wasn't there with my Runco or Elite. I'm troubleshooting it now.

Update:

Rewired my theater room and the Panny is now plugged into a different circuit. No more hum, life is good.
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post #10277 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 09:23 PM
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Do these tvs have seperate isf day and night modes? Can the color points be adjusted?
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post #10278 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by smjbh5 View Post

Do these tvs have seperate isf day and night modes? Can the color points be adjusted?

Yes and yes, but to unlock them you either need to get ControlCal or get a professional calibration.

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post #10279 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tcramer View Post

Yes and yes, but to unlock them you either need to get ControlCal or get a professional calibration.
Any isf calibrator should be able to do this?
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post #10280 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 09:45 PM
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Any isf calibrator should be able to do this?

Any reputable one should have the capability.

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post #10281 of 13680 Old 02-14-2013, 10:02 PM
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Does anyone know if you can send and play audio on the VT50 by Bluetooth pairing media devices with it? I see you can pair headphones to receive audio from the VT50best tablet pc review
I tried to pair my Galaxy Nexus with my VT50 but the VT50 did not recognize it. The GN did recognize the VT50 however.
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post #10282 of 13680 Old 02-15-2013, 12:15 AM
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I don't know if this is a DirecTV or a 65VT50 problem, but here's the issue...

I have a DirecTV HR24 connected to this TV. Whenever I watch one of the 3D channels (101-107), I can do so without any problems. However, when I pull up the channel guide, all the 3D channels are grayed (faded) out. Consequently, when I try to record a 3D program live, I get the message that says, "This receiver is not authorized to record this program." When I try to record a future showing of something on one of the 3D channels (101-107), I get a similar message telling me that because the "...receiver is not authorized to record that program...program may not record; choose cancel or record anyway."

It used to be that for some odd reason, I'd have to have my HR24 tuned onto one of those 3D channels for 10 to 20 minutes or so before the channels "lit up" in the guide and became recordable. However, they've remained grayed out for the last several hours. Resetting the receiver didn't help this time, either.

I've checked the Panny's settings, even changing 3D detect from "Auto 1" to "Auto 2" (whatever the difference is), but that didn't help. FWIW, I did notice that this problem seems to have become really prevalent after I changed my A/V to 65VT50 HDMI connection from HDMI-1 on the Panny to HDMI-2 (ARC).

DirecTV doesn't really know why this is happening, so I figured I'd check and see if anyone else has experienced this and if someone might think it's a DirecTV problem or a TV problem.
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post #10283 of 13680 Old 02-15-2013, 03:13 AM
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i dont see how yout tv could impact your dvr that way all the tv does is display the input its given

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post #10284 of 13680 Old 02-15-2013, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigarjohn47 View Post

P.S. On another note; as I've talked to my electric company and many different surge protection companies, they told me that when you connect a surge protector to any of your homes outlets, you will not get the true amps that outlets is setup for. For instance, a 20 amp outlet with a connected surge protector will be reduced to 16amps and a 15 amp outlet will be reduced to 11 total amps. So be careful not to overload your outlets and play it safe by installing 20amp our more amp outlets so overloading doesn't occurr. At 20 amps; technically it should provide up to 2400 watts of power. But realistically, if a surge is connected to a 20 amp outlet, you will be getting a maximum of 1920 watts. Anyway, good luck once again with everything. wink.gif
Someone is confused, and they are likely confusing the maximum load permitted on a branch circuit by the National Electrical Code (which is 80% of the branch circuit rating) with the rated capacity of the branch circuit itself. That has nothing to do with any characteristic of the surge protector itself; the same "80%" rule would apply to a cheap power strip with no surge protection, or even the total load of all connected devices. So yes, don't exceed a continuous 1920 watts on that 20-amp branch circuit, but not because of the surge protector.
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post #10285 of 13680 Old 02-15-2013, 08:22 AM
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Help with VT50 65 buzzing with light screens.

I've spent many hours reading this site. I know many say they have a bad buzzing and others can only hear it if they are within a couple feet of the set. I took delivery of my first panel last Sunday. While watching hockey, looking at the channel guild,etc. it had a loud buzzing sound, which was very distracting even with my surround sound at a pretty loud volume, and I sit about 17 feet from the set. I called Paul's, they came came out gave a listen, explained that all plasma's buzz, but swapped it out any way on Wednesday. After returning from work later that day, I settled in to test it out and the new one is even worse. I have my set in a tv cabinet so I thought perhaps it was causing some acoustics which in effect amplify the buzzing.

Then I found something interesting. I have a Denon-4310ci receiver which takes signals from a Cox cable hi-def box, Denon blu-ray transport then a single HDMI cable from the receiver to the tv. The Denon has a chip that can upscale 1080i from the cable box to the tv. I can choose 1080p or 1080p24 for the output format. If I choose 1080p24 AND I set the Panasonic to either 48 or 96 on the 1080p24 setting, the buzzing goes away. Mind you if I go and put my ear to the set I do hear a slight hum.

This makes me wonder if there are really two types of buzzing with light screens. The very loud one that almost makes it un-watchable , has a cycle to it where it cycles between loud and soft approximately in 3 second intervals. The hum that I hear when I'm on 24p at close range is constant, and I can't hear it from my seating position.

If I could watch all content at 1080p24 I would just leave it there, but sports and news, etc. are un watchable at that frame rate.

For what it's worth I had a Samsung 950 that was in there before with no buzzing issues so I don't think it is my equipment. As a final test I turned off the cable and receiver and just ran Netflix through the Viera net and it had the cycle buzzing as well.

I love the blu-ray picture and would love to keep it.

Is it possible i just got two lemons?

Finally, I'm no electrical engineer, so can anyone explain why the buzzing would go away if I use 1080p24, with the TV set to 48 or 96 (60 still buzzes)?

Thanks in advance. I couldn't find this specific issue on this forum.
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post #10286 of 13680 Old 02-15-2013, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post

i dont see how yout tv could impact your dvr that way all the tv does is display the input its given

I don't disagree with that; I posted to see if anyone might have an idea of whether I can rule out the TV entirely or not.
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post #10287 of 13680 Old 02-15-2013, 09:35 AM
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Unless you are already familiar with ground loops, now is the time to learn. Ground loops can be very tricky.
Oh yes they can be tricky. One really has to use there thinking cap wink.gif

Voice lag is no fun either.........
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post #10288 of 13680 Old 02-15-2013, 09:51 AM
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I read on the gt forum that the gt doesnt handle 720p inputs very well. Should i set my dish box to 1080i or 720p. Not sure whether the vt has the same issue
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post #10289 of 13680 Old 02-15-2013, 10:17 AM
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Just an update for anyone who's followed my story.

I ended up returning the second VT50 in the 30 day Best Buy time period (which resets every time you return/replace). The 3rd VT50 showed up yesterday. This time I carefully explained to the delivery guys that the first guys dropped the set and the second guys had it horizontal and turned it on when it was cold. These guys were very good about placing it onto the prebuilt base (not mounting it until I'm happy with it) from the last set and not turning it on because it was quite cold to the touch due to low temps outside.

The guy recommended I let it acclimate and wait 30 minutes, but I had work to do so I let it acclimate to the room for about 8 hours. =) When I turned it on and set up the prep slides, I noticed no dead pixels. I keep going back to it to check for pixels that may get excited, like with my second set, but so far I haven't seen any pop up.

Additionally, this set gave me the first time setup prompt, which neither of the previous two sets did. This makes me think that those two were repackaged as new while this one really is new.

One last thing I've noticed is a much reduced audible buzz from behind the set compared to the other two sets, particularly the second. I'm very happy about that.

Now I'm just crossing my fingers and hoping that the set makes it through the prep period without losing any pixels after which I'll head straight to Costco to get a SquareTrade extended warranty. =)

Thanks for those of you who gave me valuable input and here's to hoping that this will finally be the set to which I can relax and start enjoying movies with!

In retrospect, I'm pretty happy with Best Buy's 30 day policy. I certainly have put it to good use. Those of you considering buying a set may want to put some weight into the replacement policy before they purchase one. I know I would have been a less-than-satisfied VT50 owner had I retained either of the first two sets I received.
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post #10290 of 13680 Old 02-15-2013, 10:25 AM
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I recently purchased a 55 inch vt50. I love this tv but am having a issue. While watching looper on blue ray, I noticed in dark scenes with a light in the background I get a blue streak that goes across the screen. Has anyone else had this problem? I just had the tv swapped out for a new panel and it does the same thing. I have also noticed this while watching cable, so it's not the blue ray player. I'm wondering if there is a setting I need to turn off or if a calibration would help. This picture is the worse I've seen it.



Thanks for your help
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