Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 445 - AVS Forum
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post #13321 of 13723 Old 01-23-2014, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

search for user dvdmd1 - he was very upset by what sounds like a similar problem. He's not willing to share how he got it fixed so as not to help Panasonic out, but I believe he will privately help you get to where you need to go as I think he has done with others with problems of that description - he seemed like a good guy.

 

Cool!

That is very helpful, and I'm pm'ing him now:)

Thanks,

 

Donnie

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post #13322 of 13723 Old 01-23-2014, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by FLUX CAP View Post

The problem is when ever there is a static item on the screen for about 2-3 minutes, and then you move that item, the spot where the image used to be will have a ghost image of what was there previously made out of blue pixels only. And, these pixels twinkle and then fade away gradually over the next 5-10 seconds. It seems to happen more with bright images being moved away to just showing black screen. This seems to show the problem at its extreme.
There may be something wrong with your settings. My eyes have occasionally done something like that with a very bright image. Does the after image move if you move your eyes?

It doesn't seem to fit the definitions of image retention that I'm familiar with. Here are the definitions of IR that I like.

Two Types of IR - Part I

Two Types of IR - Part II

Calibration Resources:

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post #13323 of 13723 Old 01-23-2014, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLUX CAP View Post


The problem is when ever there is a static item on the screen for about 2-3 minutes, and then you move that item, the spot where the image used to be will have a ghost image of what was there previously made out of blue pixels only. And, these pixels twinkle and then fade away gradually over the next 5-10 seconds. It seems to happen more with bright images being moved away to just showing black screen. This seems to show the problem at its extreme.
wink.gif


I've noticed that if I have the user menu window up for very long, maybe 30 seconds, then when its removed I can see it's blue pattern for a short while and have noticed that when other static blue objects are on the screen. Its slight but its definitely there.

I've also seen the sparkles that you mention but noticed that it shows up more often if I've reduced blue in my grayscale. I suspect that the overall panel is getting less power causing it. It doesn't last long but long enough to catch the eye.

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post #13324 of 13723 Old 01-24-2014, 11:41 AM
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*I'm starting a thread regarding this specific issue and will put the link in my posts  as soon as the  moderator approves it:) If there is one place for people to go,  and we can pool our information concerning this exact issue it will help simply  things.

 

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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post


There may be something wrong with your settings. My eyes have occasionally done something like that with a very bright image. Does the after image move if you move your eyes?

It doesn't seem to fit the definitions of image retention that I'm familiar with. Here are the definitions of IR that I like.

Two Types of IR - Part I

Two Types of IR - Part II

htwaits,

Thanks for your help:)

I've read the information provided in both of those links, and will consider it when looking at IR issues. I can tell you that it definitely remains on the screen after you move your eyes. Sometimes its worse than others, but it didn't do it at all in the first 10 months. Then, slowly and occasionally showing up in the beginning but lately it's getting a lot worse:(

 

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wink.gif


I've noticed that if I have the user menu window up for very long, maybe 30 seconds, then when its removed I can see it's blue pattern for a short while and have noticed that when other static blue objects are on the screen. Its slight but its definitely there.

I've also seen the sparkles that you mention but noticed that it shows up more often if I've reduced blue in my grayscale. I suspect that the overall panel is getting less power causing it. It doesn't last long but long enough to catch the eye.

Thanks for your reply on this subject, it is great to finally talk with other people having the same experiences, since I thought I may be going crazy:)

It's getting worse, and I'm really feeling like - if there isn't a real 100% fix - then I'm going to be very depressed.

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post #13325 of 13723 Old 01-24-2014, 01:23 PM
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Flux Cap,

Just a shortcut about the sparkles, put the display into standard picture mode and color temp to "normal".

See if that eliminates the pattern artifact that you described.

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post #13326 of 13723 Old 01-24-2014, 02:34 PM
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Quote:

Originally Posted by JimP View Post

Flux Cap,

Just a shortcut about the sparkles, put the display into standard picture mode and color temp to "normal".

See if that eliminates the pattern artifact that you described.

 

 

JimP,

 

Performing the steps you suggested seems to work for this test anyway. It doesn't seem, at least testing it the way I do in the video, to be making the sparkle anymore. Either it's fixed running in "Standard" video settinng mode, or you just can't see it since its very dim compared to the way it was. I already had the "Color Temp" set to "Standard", so no changes there. I was running the TV in "THX Bright Room" mode, so maybe I can get away with  running it in at least "THX Cinema". Maybe when gaming I should be changing it to "Game" mode?

 

So, what does this mean now that "Standard" mode doesn't show blue pixel sparkle during just this test, and why would it have just started to happen lately?

 

Thank you again for your help:)

 

Donnie

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post #13327 of 13723 Old 01-24-2014, 10:00 PM
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Has anyone had HDMI connections issues? Suddenly my HDMI's don't work any more with anything but my cable box/DVR... My BlueRay player and XBOX don't get the signal through... When I start the BRay for example, the TV auto-switches to it's HDMI (indicating that there is indeed some communication between the two with the BRay player being also Panasonic), but then it just goes black and flashes the "no signal detected" banner. WTF??? Same with the XBOX. Also same if I connect any of these devices to HDMI1 which works with the DVR box only... Weird... The only difference would be that DVR is 1080i (ATT U-Verse box), and BRay and Xbox are of course 1080p... How can that matter though - plus it worked before...

Any ideas would be appreciated. I already reset the TV to default settings and all that, unplugged and reconnected the HDMI's, tried different cables, etc. but nothing worked... Thanks for any ideas on what else I could try...
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post #13328 of 13723 Old 01-24-2014, 10:36 PM
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Z-Mad,

Check your settings in menu/setup/viera link settings

Sounds like something got turned off.

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post #13329 of 13723 Old 01-24-2014, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

Z-Mad,

Check your settings in menu/setup/viera link settings

Sounds like something got turned off.

I checked, but all seems normal/turned on as usual. HDMI settings are on "auto" as before... I looked through the various menu options and didn't find anything that seemed related or that I could enable/disable... Totally weird... Could something have short-circuited? But then why would the U-Verse box still work fine? I can't figure it out... May have to start a warranty claim tomorrow...

Thanks for your reply or for any other ideas...
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post #13330 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 03:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by FLUX CAP View Post

The problem is when ever there is a static item on the screen for about 2-3 minutes, and then you move that item, the spot where the image used to be will have a ghost image of what was there previously made out of blue pixels only. And, these pixels twinkle and then fade away gradually over the next 5-10 seconds. It seems to happen more with bright images being moved away to just showing black screen. This seems to show the problem at its extreme.
There may be something wrong with your settings. My eyes have occasionally done something like that with a very bright image. Does the after image move if you move your eyes?

It doesn't seem to fit the definitions of image retention that I'm familiar with. Here are the definitions of IR that I like.

Two Types of IR - Part I

Two Types of IR - Part II

My VT50 exhibits this behavior and it is not image retention. It appears sporadically, perhaps once a week, as a vertical oblong area near the edge of the right hand upper quadrant of the screen. The dimensions are roughly 4" wide by 8" high. I have not yet determined the cause of the blue sparkles but they go away on their own. I chalk it off to personality. smile.gif

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post #13331 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 07:43 AM
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Okay guys, here's more video of the blue sparkles on my VT50, and this is only ten minutes after turning the set on this morning. This time I can show how extreme it gets. Please expand this video to "full screen" and select the "720p" option.

The TV's video setting is on "Cinema" not "THX Cinema" or "THX Bright Room", just "Cinema". And yeah, it will still do it on "Standard":(

 

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post #13332 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 08:32 AM
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I noticed 2 issues with my VT 50. I've had it for a year now. A couple weeks ago I noticed the VT 50 input logo top left corner shows on a white screen. Weird. The logo only briefly shows when powering on the unit so having an IR issue with it is disappointing. Second, the "CNN" logo bottom right is now part of my screen when showing a white screen. CNN is hardly ever on. So again, weird and disappointing.

I use THX Cinema exclusively. My main viewing is Blueray through my OPPO 103.

I've ran the pixel flipper on the WOW disc for about 20 hrs now. Both logos have gotten better as far as going away but are still noticeable on white screens.

Anyone else experiencing similar problems? I can control never having CNN on. Don't think I can control the VT 50 input showing when I turn the panel on.
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post #13333 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 11:09 AM
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Flux that looks similar to dvdmd1s issue I was remembering.
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post #13334 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Joss12 View Post

I noticed 2 issues with my VT 50. I've had it for a year now. A couple weeks ago I noticed the VT 50 input logo top left corner shows on a white screen. Weird. The logo only briefly shows when powering on the unit so having an IR issue with it is disappointing. Second, the "CNN" logo bottom right is now part of my screen when showing a white screen. CNN is hardly ever on. So again, weird and disappointing.

I use THX Cinema exclusively. My main viewing is Blueray through my OPPO 103.

I've ran the pixel flipper on the WOW disc for about 20 hrs now. Both logos have gotten better as far as going away but are still noticeable on white screens.

Anyone else experiencing similar problems? I can control never having CNN on. Don't think I can control the VT 50 input showing when I turn the panel on.

Yeah, me too. I don't even watch CNN and the logo is visible on (all) white screens. The CNN logo isn't really bothersome for me though, since the blue pixel sparkle showed up I have been considering suicide (only kidding) versus dealing with the reality that I own a 1.5year old 65" $3,500 plasma TV that's out of warranty, and I can't sell because it's faulty. The realization that there's not much I can do about it makes me sick to my stomach; only five months past the end of the warranty. This whole thing makes me feel dirty:( Is there anything we can do?

 

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Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

Flux that looks similar to dvdmd1s issue I was remembering.

From the photos I've seen from him, and others experiencing the same problems it seems the blue pixel sparkles are appearing almost exactly the same way, and in the same exact spots. I find it hard to believe that a fault of this magnitude can be ignored by the manufacturer, warranty expiration regardless.

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post #13335 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 12:46 PM
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Yeah, mine is now out of warranty also. It is discouraging. Something I don't understand is I thought the more aged the less chance of IR. Guess not.

My game plan - continue with running the pixel flipper. No more cable that has any fixed graphics on screen. Stick to my OPPO.
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post #13336 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post

Has anyone had HDMI connections issues? [
There can be a lot of HDMI related problems. I recently had to diagnose a problem in a system that had been working for over three years without anyone touching it.

It helps to start with simple things.

Quote:
Suddenly my HDMI's don't work any more with anything but my cable box/DVR... My BlueRay player and XBOX don't get the signal through... When I start the BRay for example, the TV auto-switches to it's HDMI (indicating that there is indeed some communication between the two with the BRay player being also Panasonic), but then it just goes black and flashes the "no signal detected" banner. WTF??? Same with the XBOX. Also same if I connect any of these devices to HDMI1 which works with the DVR box only... Weird... The only difference would be that DVR is 1080i (ATT U-Verse box), and BRay and Xbox are of course 1080p... How can that matter though - plus it worked before...

Any ideas would be appreciated. I already reset the TV to default settings and all that, unplugged and reconnected the HDMI's, tried different cables, etc. but nothing worked... Thanks for any ideas on what else I could try...

It sounds like you have all your input devices connected directly to your TV, and that you do not have an AVR. Is that correct?

While you say you've tried different cables it might help to clarify what you mean. It might also help to know what gage (how heavy) your cables are. Gravity can do terrible things to HDMI connections.

It sounds like your DVR works with HDMI1, but does your DVR work using the same HDMI cable connected to the other HDMI ports? Does your DVR work with different ports or different HDMI cables?

When you tried connecting your XBox and player to HDMI1 did you also use the same cable that works with your DVR?

I know from painful experience that it's possible to have HDMI connections fail from tension and/or the weight of the cable. In the case I fixed, once I found out that the cable was pulling itself out of the port just enough to break the connection, all I had to do was use plastic ties to take weight off the connection. Reseting the cable didn't solve the problem because the cable weight caused the cable to move just enough to cause the problem.

I hope this helps you diagnose your cable problem. The other possibility is that your input board has gone bad and effected all the HDMI ports except HDMI1. That's why I ask if you had connected your working DVR with it's working cable to the other ports.

Calibration Resources:

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post #13337 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 05:55 PM
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Flux the only good news is that others have managed to fix it.
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post #13338 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

There can be a lot of HDMI related problems. I recently had to diagnose a problem in a system that had been working for over three years without anyone touching it.

It helps to start with simple things.
It sounds like you have all your input devices connected directly to your TV, and that you do not have an AVR. Is that correct?

While you say you've tried different cables it might help to clarify what you mean. It might also help to know what gage (how heavy) your cables are. Gravity can do terrible things to HDMI connections.

It sounds like your DVR works with HDMI1, but does your DVR work using the same HDMI cable connected to the other HDMI ports? Does your DVR work with different ports or different HDMI cables?

When you tried connecting your XBox and player to HDMI1 did you also use the same cable that works with your DVR?

I know from painful experience that it's possible to have HDMI connections fail from tension and/or the weight of the cable. In the case I fixed, once I found out that the cable was pulling itself out of the port just enough to break the connection, all I had to do was use plastic ties to take weight off the connection. Reseting the cable didn't solve the problem because the cable weight caused the cable to move just enough to cause the problem.
I hope this helps you diagnose your cable problem. The other possibility is that your input board has gone bad and effected all the HDMI ports except HDMI1. That's why I ask if you had connected your working DVR with it's working cable to the other ports.

Thanks for the advice. I went ahead and tried all the things you mentioned, which made a lot of sense. The result is indeed strange: Cable box works fine on every HDMI input, but BRay doesn't work on any HDMI. Cables should not be the issue: I tried the exact same cable that the cable box uses - when I plug the cable box to it, it works fine. Then when I leave the same cable in the same HDMI input but connect the BRay player at the other end, no signal! The result is the same on any HDMI: cable box works, BRay and XBOX don't regardless which cable or input I use. Totally weird... Thanks again for the tips, but it looks like I'll have to have this looked at by a technician. I bought the TV with black tie protection at Best Buy, and it still has a couple of years of warranty on it, so if they can't fix it, I'll get a replacement... Either way, I'm curious to find out what the heck caused this...
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post #13339 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 09:26 PM
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Z-Mad, if the DVR works with any HDMI port and any HDMI cable then I don't know what could be wrong with your HDMI input ports.

Can you try your player and X-Box on another display with your cables? Logic seems to point to them or their settings.

If you haven't done this, try connecting the player by itself with the cable you normally use with the DVR. Turn the TV on and wait a few seconds before you turn on the player.

Do the same thing with the X-Box. Turn on the TV, wait and then turn on the X-Box.

You may be having a handshake problem. If either of these tests work that would be a handshake clue. In any HDMI chain it's best to turn one the devices starting with the display and working back to the end of the chain. Having only one device connected is just to simplify the setup. There are some devices that report that they are on when in fact they are in standby. That can mess up the HDMI handshake.

Calibration Resources:

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post #13340 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Z-Mad, if the DVR works with any HDMI port and any HDMI cable then I don't know what could be wrong with your HDMI input ports.

Can you try your player and X-Box on another display with your cables? Logic seems to point to them or their settings.

If you haven't done this, try connecting the player by itself with the cable you normally use with the DVR. Turn the TV on and wait a few seconds before you turn on the player.

Do the same thing with the X-Box. Turn on the TV, wait and then turn on the X-Box.

You may be having a handshake problem. If either of these tests work that would be a handshake clue. In any HDMI chain it's best to turn one the devices starting with the display and working back to the end of the chain. Having only one device connected is just to simplify the setup. There are some devices that report that they are on when in fact they are in standby. That can mess up the HDMI handshake.

Calibration Resources:

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post #13341 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Z-Mad, if the DVR works with any HDMI port and any HDMI cable then I don't know what could be wrong with your HDMI input ports.

Can you try your player and X-Box on another display with your cables? Logic seems to point to them or their settings.

If you haven't done this, try connecting the player by itself with the cable you normally use with the DVR. Turn the TV on and wait a few seconds before you turn on the player.

Do the same thing with the X-Box. Turn on the TV, wait and then turn on the X-Box.

You may be having a handshake problem. If either of these tests work that would be a handshake clue. In any HDMI chain it's best to turn one the devices starting with the display and working back to the end of the chain. Having only one device connected is just to simplify the setup. There are some devices that report that they are on when in fact they are in standby. That can mess up the HDMI handshake.

htwaits, thanks again. Let me see... I'll try this out once again and report back...
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post #13342 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 10:57 PM
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OK, so I guess it is the hand shake problem. When I connect the same BRay player to my other TV (a Sharp LED) it actually shows the same issue when connected directly to the TV's HDMI. However, when I connect it via AV Receiver the BRay player works fine. So how does one reset or fix the hand shake? I don't have an AV receiver for the VT50, but I run a sound bar via optical... Come to think of it, actually the xbox and BR worked connected directly to the TV in the past, but I think I did not use them since connecting the soundbar via optical. So that's what has changed since last time it all worked - I connected a Sony soundbar... Can that have anything to do with it though? In any case, how does one get them to shake hands again... Thanks a lot for all the advice!
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post #13343 of 13723 Old 01-25-2014, 11:45 PM
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OK, never mind - finally got it to work again... When I installed the sound bar on the VT50 and some other equipment in the other room, I did some re-connecting and mixing up of HDMI cables. I guess I didn't realize how sensitive all this equipment is to the specific cables... So after making sure I had the right quality cables used for the right devices again, all started to work again...

Thanks htwaits, your tips helped me get this resolved....I had already given up and was going to get a technician out, which would have been stupid, lol. Life is good again biggrin.gif
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post #13344 of 13723 Old 01-26-2014, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post

OK, never mind - finally got it to work again... When I installed the sound bar on the VT50 and some other equipment in the other room, I did some re-connecting and mixing up of HDMI cables. I guess I didn't realize how sensitive all this equipment is to the specific cables... So after making sure I had the right quality cables used for the right devices again, all started to work again...

Thanks htwaits, your tips helped me get this resolved....I had already given up and was going to get a technician out, which would have been stupid, lol. Life is good again biggrin.gif
Good job. Always simplify these kind of situations. Start with nothing, add one thing, and slowly go on from there. biggrin.gif
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post #13345 of 13723 Old 01-26-2014, 04:12 PM
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Okay. Another 10 hrs of the pixel flipper and the CNN logo is just about gone. So is the VT50 onscreen input info. I've decided to go ahead and watch the Super Bowl. IR be damned. I watched it last year and didn't have an issue.
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post #13346 of 13723 Old 02-05-2014, 03:17 PM
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Does the VT50 have a headphone jack slot?

 

I googled and websites said it does, yet I can't find the headphone jack anywhere.

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post #13347 of 13723 Old 02-05-2014, 04:20 PM
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what does the manual say on the subject?
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post #13348 of 13723 Old 02-05-2014, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanfooo View Post

Does the VT50 have a headphone jack slot?

I googled and websites said it does, yet I can't find the headphone jack anywhere.

It doesn't, you can use Bluetooth headphones however

65VT60
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post #13349 of 13723 Old 02-09-2014, 09:38 PM
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Flux Cap...I just saw your video. I was never able to get my videos to post here, but yes that's it. You have exactly what I have. That's the blue sparkles. And juts like everyone else, they are most prone to the right side of the screen...upper right, though I HAVE seen them on both sides.

Our only difference is severity. What takes the entire video of 50 seconds to go away on yours will take about 3-5 seconds to go away on mine. Eventually when I got sick of dealing with Panny CS and didn't want to send my TV via truck to place a few miles away that they scheduled for service just to have them look at the damn thing, I decided to just live with it.

I did read in the yellow blob thread that they were able to duplicate this issue with the POTS in the back of the set adjusting the voltage (VSUS I think?). Too high and you get blue sparkles...turn it up and vary the intensity. Too low gets you the yellow blobs. They had to match both POTS to the same, correct voltage to get things back to normal. Or, if you're Panny, just chalk it up as a "defective panel" and replace everything, which seems to be their level of interest in solving the problems...lol.

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post #13350 of 13723 Old 02-17-2014, 11:19 AM
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I don't know if this is the right place to post this, but does anyone know why some of my options like "Motion Smoother" is disabled automatically?  I can't seem to edit the setting.  Any advice on what may be wrong?

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