Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 450 - AVS Forum
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post #13471 of 13698 Old 04-17-2014, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sardaan View Post

Is there a parts list I should reference when shopping for the board? I'm comfortable replacing it, a re there any guides on the process?

I watched a tech replace my A board, and it's pretty straightforward. It appeared to me that the only slightly challenging part of the process is getting the back of the TV off and back on again. Once the back is off, you can easily identify the A board by matching it to the replacement, then after that (from what I remember) you just have to unplug all the cables from the old, remove the screws holding it in, then replace it with the new. I'm sure taking a picture beforehand would make it easier to identify which cables go where on the new board.
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post #13472 of 13698 Old 04-17-2014, 12:42 PM
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OK thanks for your help. I may end up going with a HT receiver to simplify everything and tidy up the wiring. Looking like a better option now.
I'll post back when I get this all sorted. Cheers!
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post #13473 of 13698 Old 04-17-2014, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grax View Post

Hello, I have a vt50 and I'm trying to connect the optical out to my Sennheiser rs-180 wireless headphones through an Orei DA34 DAC which is supposed to decode Dolby, DTS and PCM streams. I have tried to change audio settings in the menu to PCM but there is no option for optical and only HDMI audio. The optical cable is lit and working. Any ideas besides having to purchase a home theater receiver?
Why is there no option in the menu for optical/toslink in audio settings or am I missing something?

Grax,

1) buy this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (u need this for VT50 or VT60)

2) connect to optical out

3) directly connect the RS-180

4) mute the TV when using the RS-180 (so u don't hear audio through speaker and headphones)

works over here on VT50s and VT60s with multiple RS-180s...

- M

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post #13474 of 13698 Old 04-17-2014, 02:39 PM
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Thanks Iron Mike, I'll try one of those since the price is right.☺
I'm sending the Orei back and getting the Fiio.
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post #13475 of 13698 Old 04-18-2014, 02:56 PM
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I have been dealing with the yellow blobs issue on my 55VT50 for some time now and I finally made the call to Best Buy since my warranty expires in July.

The Geek Squad guys came to my house today and when I greeted them at the door they said there is a bulletin out for the blobs and they might be able to fix it by adjusting some settings in the service menu. I had an all white screen running on TV and the second they approached the set they said I need a new panel. lol

It turns out that there are a few left and they are coming back next Tues to replace the panel. I wouldn't have mind if they weren't any panels and I got a refund but I'm not sure if there are any superior sets for the price.

Is there anything I should pay attention to when they install it and does the panel replace all the picture? That is, will I get the near perfect screen uniformity I had before the blobs? (the screen was noticeably brighter where the blobs were when viewing an all black picture). I also had some burn-in so will that be gone as well?



P.S. - I read the other thread where people say the problem came back after the panel was replaced. I called the Geek Squad and asked for a TV replacement but was told since the panel replacement is set and it's the first issue, it's not eligible for replacement. I ended up extending the warranty for another year at $100 since the warranty covers burn-in which I have on my current yellow blobish panel. What can I do to make sure this doesn't happen again?

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post #13476 of 13698 Old 04-18-2014, 07:06 PM
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You basically get a new tv. They will remove the back, remove the screen filter, if present, and remove all the circuit boards. They will reassemble the tv with the new panel, and any blob or IR or burn in will be gone, with the old panel.

As the blobs seem to be associated with the heat of the circuit boards, you might add external fans to reduce the heat.

Good luck
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post #13477 of 13698 Old 04-18-2014, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_O View Post

You basically get a new tv. They will remove the back, remove the screen filter, if present, and remove all the circuit boards. They will reassemble the tv with the new panel, and any blob or IR or burn in will be gone, with the old panel.

As the blobs seem to be associated with the heat of the circuit boards, you might add external fans to reduce the heat.

Good luck

Or like me they replace the panel and 45 days later your picture is flickering and unwatchable. I'm fighting Panasonic to the death on this one!!

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post #13478 of 13698 Old 04-19-2014, 01:13 PM
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As wonderful as the picture can be, I am more and more disappointed with the VT50... so much so that I am considering buying one of the new Vizio P-series local dimming LCD's when they finally become available.

I too am starting to notice "yellow blobs" on either side. I have IR on a regular basis, mostly all these damn broadcast logos. And, perhaps worst of all, the buzzing from the boards and noise from the fans still irritates the hell out of me. My old Panny plasma did not have (or need) fans and had none of these issues, and the TV speakers actually sounded decent.

I think all of these problems are the price paid for a thinner design and a brighter picture... not worth it in my opinion.

Sean
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post #13479 of 13698 Old 04-19-2014, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by stash64 View Post


I think all of these problems are the price paid for a thinner design and a brighter picture... not worth it in my opinion.
I'm not sure if you're right, but on the other hand what good can come from thinner and excessively bright designs.
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post #13480 of 13698 Old 04-19-2014, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I'm not sure if you're right, but on the other hand what good can come from thinner and excessively bright designs.

I'm an engineer and I have a good idea how this likely came about. Marketing and sales at Panasonic kept pushing engineering for a thinner and thinner and brighter and brighter design in order to keep pace with LCD. Engineering pushed back and explained the problems this would create but, in the end, marketing/sales won out. Most companies these days emphasize marketing over engineering, though I do think Panasonic is better than many other AV companies... Samsung & Bose come to mind.
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post #13481 of 13698 Old 04-20-2014, 04:04 AM
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It's a real shame this display technology IMO never got the chance to fully mature. I had hoped it would still have at least a few more years in it.

Disappointing that the bright panel LCD tech won out, dynamic modes are ghastly. Unfortunately less reflective panels weren't offered on lower end
plasmas , this was one of the main reasons for it not being picked up as readily as LED/LCDs. I wish it squared things up better vs LEDs
and that salespeople actually knew the benefits of the technology. Real shame. OLEDS are going to take forever to match the price performance rato
of many plasmas.

No blobs on my VT50 yet, here's hoping it stays that way.
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post #13482 of 13698 Old 04-20-2014, 08:14 AM
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Please name 2 display technologies, other than CRT, that have been allowed to fully mature
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post #13483 of 13698 Old 04-20-2014, 02:07 PM
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Hello everyone. I'm turning to this thread for some help. The story is long but aren't they all. I purchased a TC-P55VT50 in September 2012. It worked fine until October of last year. The set simply went blank but the audio stayed on. Here's the details. The red LED stays on and the screen doesn't go off like the power is out, it simply goes dark. It has very slight shade changes through any of the video inputs i.e. cable, DVD. When you look close at the screen, it has lines cascading down it. I bought an extended warranty so off the wall it came and to the service provider it went. 2 weeks later, he calls saying its fixed. A factory upgrade was completed on the grounds. I bring it home and for 1 week it works fine. Then the same thing, it goes blank. I take it back in and the serviceman now calls saying its the SS board. He orders it and installs it and I bring it home. It again works for about a week and goes again. At this point, I'm not convinced the guy knows what he doing. I take it back in and he calls a few days later saying he had it on the stand and plugged it in and it fired right up. He left it on for 3 days with no problems, didn't find a thing. I bring it home and last night after 2 days of use, it goes dead. At this point, I'm ready to do this myself. Panasonic was no technical help although they did offer to pick up the service cost which I already had covered by the extended warranty. Tonight I ran through the troubleshooting resistance guide I found on here and everything checked out. I ran through the Vda, Vsus, and P15V guide as much as my model matched up with what was written and I got more than 1K in resistance in all checks. Again, I have no blinking LED, it comes on and stays on and the panel has some subdued shade changes then just stays dark and the lines continue to cascade down.

At this point, I'm looking for any ideas of specific items to check for to see what board is really causing the problem. I really want to think its the P board but I am not an expert.

This TV was supposed to be our premier TV for a long time and so far my $200 Walmart LCD is lapping this Viera.

Knowns:
I have it plugged into a surge protector
I use different picture setting for different inputs i.e. vivid, cinema, standard
It hangs on the wall
The relays click on when plugged in
The LED is on when its supposed to be, and off when its supposed to be
The fans kick on with power up

Thanks for any help you can provide
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post #13484 of 13698 Old 04-20-2014, 02:35 PM
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Seemore, sorry to hear that. Does it happen regularly on only one input from one source?
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post #13485 of 13698 Old 04-20-2014, 03:12 PM
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It happens with any inputs, any configuration that I can think of, even no inputs at all.
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post #13486 of 13698 Old 04-20-2014, 04:44 PM
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That's unlike any previous problem I've seen. I had one once with lots of varied color pixels cascading down accompanied by a very loud beep.

I think replacement is needed through your EW
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post #13487 of 13698 Old 05-30-2014, 06:47 AM
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Is there something I'm missing here... With the European/UK model of the TX-P50VT50B in the Pro modes, the best contrast ratio I can get is 66xx:1 with HCFR. Yet I see so many other Plasma's posted about here with calibration charts that is in the tens of thousands to one.


Is it the lack of panel brightness thats causing it? Isn't xxxx:1 not awfully weak contrast ratio for a Plasma?
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post #13488 of 13698 Old 05-30-2014, 07:32 AM
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How did you come to that measurement?

I believe on the 50 series the black level measures a bit higher with pro/cinema mode and the average brightness is a bit lower
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post #13489 of 13698 Old 05-30-2014, 08:16 AM
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Using Mascior's calibration disc. 4% windows measures the same with 5% APL patterns, i1 Display Pro and HCFR 3.1.1. Though ABL is a little aggressive with the APL patterns and it's very agressive with the AVS709 windows that are 10 - 15% large?

With 4% windows and 5% APL I get peak white 99 - 101cd^m2/29ftL, default 36 was just under 80cd^m2, 52 ends up 100cd^m2.

Yeah, the black levels are a little higher but I prefer Pro as it's a smoother picture. MLL 0.015cd^m2. Live reading 0.01cd^m2/0.004ftL.


I've also got a big kink in 15% greyscale that I'll have to try and rectify.


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post #13490 of 13698 Old 05-31-2014, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xvfx View Post

Is there something I'm missing here... With the European/UK model of the TX-P50VT50B in the Pro modes, the best contrast ratio I can get is 66xx:1 with HCFR. Yet I see so many other Plasma's posted about here with calibration charts that is in the tens of thousands to one.


Is it the lack of panel brightness thats causing it? Isn't xxxx:1 not awfully weak contrast ratio for a Plasma?

Hi. The UK sets are the same as NZ sets on pro. Yes this is the contrast ratio to expect as blacks are considerably higher and panel is less bright. This is why I calibrated the THX cinema mode. This then gives me accurate greyscale and colours and the contrast ratio the same as the US models achieve. Around the 10000:1 on ansi test pattern. Due to having no panel brightness setting in pro we end up limited. A real pity but i am happy to have got around it.
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post #13491 of 13698 Old 05-31-2014, 03:56 AM
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Well keep in mind you lose alot of gradations or 'steps' of color, if you view at a close distance it might be a harder decision to make
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post #13492 of 13698 Old 05-31-2014, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ChadThunder View Post

Well keep in mind you lose alot of gradations or 'steps' of color, if you view at a close distance it might be a harder decision to make

Yes very good point on less gradations. If you check up close, the dither on THX cinema is more than pro NZ for sure. However it seems a lot less than the normal mode so it is somewhere in the middle. To me the contrast boost is worth it, but each to there own preference. I think you may find that the US sets only have the very fine gradations on panel brightness low, when in pro.The panel brightness mid has a little more dither similar to that on THX cinema. Maybe someone can confirm.
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post #13493 of 13698 Old 05-31-2014, 02:27 PM
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Do the US sets lower black level on Mid panel brightness for Pro modes... Or is it just a side effect to the VT50's?
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post #13494 of 13698 Old 05-31-2014, 02:40 PM
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I remember reading that to get max gradients u needed to be on panel low for the us sets as well.
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post #13495 of 13698 Old 05-31-2014, 03:24 PM
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I can use Cinema mode to get better gradiation, but the MLL rises.

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post #13496 of 13698 Old 06-01-2014, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xvfx View Post

Do the US sets lower black level on Mid panel brightness for Pro modes... Or is it just a side effect to the VT50's?

Not that I've seen. You have to remember that the Euro model does some things that the U.S. model doesn't do. That's one of them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

I remember reading that to get max gradients u needed to be on panel low for the us sets as well.

There was something about using deep color but for all intent and purposes, there is no deep color content except for video you might shoot yourself.

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post #13497 of 13698 Old 06-05-2014, 11:54 AM
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Not that I've seen. You have to remember that the Euro model does some things that the U.S. model doesn't do. That's one of them.

 

Hello!

 

I'm joining the forum just to ask one thing that's annoying me for months: Is there somebody here that could explain why Panasonic decided to screw the VT50 owners outside North America? I'm asking from Brazil, and I got a 55" model that is similar to the euro models, and it does lack some features and has some issues that are definetely not present in the US models, as far as I know.

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post #13498 of 13698 Old 06-05-2014, 12:46 PM
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^the place you want to post this is the AVforums located here http://www.avforums.com/ .
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post #13499 of 13698 Old 06-05-2014, 12:50 PM
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Hello!

I'm joining the forum just to ask one thing that's annoying me for months: Is there somebody here that could explain why Panasonic decided to screw the VT50 owners outside North America? I'm asking from Brazil, and I got a 55" model that is similar to the euro models, and it does lack some features and has some issues that are definetely not present in the US models, as far as I know.

Hi RegiOween,

Welcome to the forum. I can share your frustration as I am an outside USA owner too. I have asked Panasonic this question and not really received any decent answer. There was a mention that local firmware decisions were made to help with energy ratings. That's why panel brightness options were removed. In my country they fixed it on the VT60 so who knows.

We were also left without any autocal support. Again another firmware decision.

Maybe you could share which features you are missing and the group can help you out on how much impact these really have?

I have found that the group on AVS have even great and have helped me with:

Yellow blobs
Calibrating THX cinema
Calibration methods

The Non USA sets are restricted, but with perseverance and some learning can get close.

Panasonic had something pretty special with these Plasmas, but didn't seem to really understand us in far away lands.

I am still overall happy with what I have, when I compare it to cloud grey LCD expensive TVs.

Good luck and great to have you here
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post #13500 of 13698 Old 06-05-2014, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
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I'm asking from Brazil,

I thought it was spelled "Brasil" down there
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