The Official Panasonic U50/54 Owners' Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 1067 Old 01-16-2013, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RobLee View Post

Seems to be a persistent flaw in this technology. I certainly wouldn't buy an automobile if I was supposed to somehow understand that I was not to drive at 65mph for more than four hours. With the amount of time I spend tuned to financial news this set apparently wouldn't last a week.
Probably wouldn't. Its not for everybody. Most people are willing to put a little effort in to get the outstanding pq but it depends on your watching habits.

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post #632 of 1067 Old 01-16-2013, 06:40 AM
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Where can I get these "slides"?

I've heard people talking about them but never gave them much thought.
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post #633 of 1067 Old 01-16-2013, 06:45 AM
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Where can I get these "slides"?

I've heard people talking about them but never gave them much thought.
What 100 hr panel prep were you talking about?

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post #634 of 1067 Old 01-16-2013, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by getbigg21 View Post

how is the glare on these sets?
There is definitely glare with a real glass screen as compared to a plastic screen found on LCD/LED TV's. I would say that if you do a lot of viewing during the day AND you have windows that face the screen (like behind your couch/chair), then it may be a problem for you. My feeling is that the matte screens on some LCD TV's do more to distort the picture than the plasma glass reflections do. I would rather have the deeper colors and better off-center viewing ad put up with some daytime glare. For some however, it's an issue.
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So I've had this TV (TC-50pu54) since early November and I followed all the proper first 100 hour use instructions. Just last night I fell asleep with the TV on the NFL channel.

Now it had burned in the ticker at the bottom of the screen and the left side of the panel has the news ticker column burnt in as well...

I tried scrolling bar feature for 15m followed by a full screen HD movie on repeat for 3 hours...

No change. Nothing.

This thing is going back to Costco. Wtf? Anyone else have this happen? I paid 499.99 + tax for this when it was on sale for it's lowest price the week before black Friday. What would you guys do? Return it and pay full price but get something that won't have these issues? Maybe go the way of LED instead of plasma (too many issues with plasma)?

Imnopz, sorry about your IR problem. Would you mind sharing your settings like Contrast/Brightness, pixel orbiter, etc.How long was the channel left on? Also, if you have the time before you take it back, could you try running one of the non-stop MP4 wipes overnight (like 6-8 hours). I don't think a 3 hour movie is going to do it. I use this one but there are others.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4gE_Xez-fQ
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post #635 of 1067 Old 01-16-2013, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Probably wouldn't. Its not for everybody. Most people are willing to put a little effort in to get the outstanding pq but it depends on your watching habits.

I would love to be able get plasma PQ without the possible problems of buzz, glare, and/or IR. Any one of these can pretty much nix plasma technology for many applications. Wish they could make it foolproof.

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post #636 of 1067 Old 01-16-2013, 07:26 AM
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Thank you for the suggestions. I will try the longer wipe. As I mentioned, so far ive only ran the built-in 15m wipe followed by a full frame HD HBO movie until the thing timed out after the 3 hour cut-off.

Settings (based on recommended pre-100hr use):
Picture mode: custom
Contrast: 64
Brightness: 44
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness :50
Color temp: Normal
Color mgmt: off
CATS: off
Video NR: medium

During the initial 100 hours I tried my best not to watch sports channels or news channels with tickers for extended periods of time. I guess I got lazy after the 100 hour period. I love watching ESPN and the NFL network and unfortunately, I had never activated the 3 hour "no activity" timer until after this incident.
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post #637 of 1067 Old 01-16-2013, 07:34 AM
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Also:

Pixel Orbiter has been active since first use.

The TV couldnt have been left on the channel for more than 5 hours (that's being liberal) I know this because I was watching HD content then I switched over to the NFL Network and dozed off (started at ~3am, fell asleep, and woke up around 8am).
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post #638 of 1067 Old 01-16-2013, 10:28 AM
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I always keep the auto shutoff feature on, I think mine is for an hour, maybe two. If i'm watching a movie and the 3 minute reminder comes on I just take action by changing the volume.
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post #639 of 1067 Old 01-16-2013, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by lmnopz View Post

This thing is going back to Costco. Wtf?
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

When you do return it don't tell them what happened.

Truly amazing to read this. eek.gif You damaged it you keep it or fix it with your own money. No wonder returning products with actual manufacturing defect is getting harder and harder.

I reckon taking responsibility for your own actions did not cross your mind.
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post #640 of 1067 Old 01-16-2013, 06:12 PM
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I just got the P60U50 from Frys.com for $799 and free shipping. First time having a flat panel at all. My last one was a 55" Mitsubishi rear projection TV. All CRTs before that.

Anyway, I'm new to the calibration scene. I messed around with the THX Optimizer on my Cars DVD, but it doesn't really help one to set the Color and Tint settings. Based on those, I had it set this way:

Picture mode: Cinema
Contrast: +100
Brightness: +52
Color: +100
Tint: +15
Sharpness: 0
Color temp: Warm 2

I have protanomaly, but I set the Tint to where the Magenta and Cyan looked how I thought they were supposed to. It said to set the Color setting to where the Red square was true Red without bleeding. The more I turned the Color up, the more Red it became, and I never noticed any bleeding. The THX Optimizer also said to set the Contrast to where the white was white and I could still see all 4 shades. I can still see all 4 with Contrast at 100, but the white still seems gray to me. When I think of white, I think of a light table to view negatives on or a new white car. So far, sunny outdoor scenes in movies appear to be hazy, like there is smoke in the air. It doesn't blur the details, it just makes things look dull and I feel like I'm trying to read a book by candlelight. I always turn off all the lights when watching things if I can.

Anyway, my wife said my color settings were horrible and said I should just set it back to default and leave it alone. She doesn't understand why things need to be messed with at all. It looks fine on default to her. So I set them to the CNET settings of this:

Picture mode: Cinema
Contrast: +100
Brightness: +56
Color: +45
Tint: +1
Sharpness: 0
Color temp: Warm 2

It looks fine now, but still the dingy, smoky look during sunny shots. I mean, I see the sun shining on things and they look like they are indoors! I've been outside when it's sunny. It's bright! But on this TV it looks like a volcano is erupting off-screen and shooting ash into the sky overhead. I see other people setting their Contrast to 78 or even down in the 60s. 100 is still too dark for me. How can the white level that low look natural to you? Things don't look like that in real life. Am I missing something?

Anyway, I love the detail of it compared to my other TVs. I'm trying to limit logos and stuff being displayed for long periods of time. So far no IR. I don't have any meters or anything and cannot afford anything like that. This TV was financed as it is. I would like to get the best possible calibration, however.

How do I tell how close to 6500K the white is without a meter? It's Cinema and Warm2. I can get into the Service Menu and saw where the RGB Drv settings were. I read a guide on how to set them in conjunction with a meter. My dad used to work for a printing company and he operated a drum scanner and color-corrected pictures with Photoshop. He would sometimes ask us to pick an object and he would tell us how much Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black it had. Then he'd view it in Photoshop and the values would be pretty close. I'm wondering if I could get him to look at something on the screen while I set the R, G, and B Drv settings and he could guide me.

On that note, are there any other settings to change in there? Gamma perhaps? I could load one of those images where you squint and change the Gamma to where the lined square matches the darkness of the outer solid square. I can't afford to have it professionally calibrated, but I also don't want to make due with incorrect settings if they can be changed.
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post #641 of 1067 Old 01-16-2013, 11:42 PM
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So after running Martyr's burn-in correcting video loop all day (and about to be all night), my IR has decreased significantly, still a little bit of shadow left but I'd say with confidence that it's 80% better than it was at it's worst.

I got restless today, however, and picked up a UN46EH6000 that was on sale at BestBuy (I had been waiting since after X-Mas for the price to drop on this model, and it finally did, no impulse buy here). I can honestly say that I like this new Sammy rear-lit LED panel a lot. I feel like I was never a plasma guy to begin with. I actually don't mind the SOE and appreciate a low maintenance panel that I can watch ESPN and NFL on for hours and not have to worry about horrible nightmare burn-in issues like with plasma.
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post #642 of 1067 Old 01-17-2013, 11:49 AM
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Is there a link to this "marty" burn in correcting loop?
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post #643 of 1067 Old 01-17-2013, 12:09 PM
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Is there a link to this "marty" burn in correcting loop?

Post #635 above. I have been running it a lot during my 100 hour break-in period but not to correct any specific problems. It really isn't mine and I'm not promoting it or anything. It seems to be well thought out, looks like it exercises all the colors & pixels, and is easy to run on a USB/SD Card without converting it to another format. I've probably run it 30-40 hours and it hasn't caused any harm & maybe done some good.
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post #644 of 1067 Old 01-17-2013, 02:05 PM
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Do any of you guys have experience comparing the u50 with an older panny plasma? Is the ABL more agressive on the u50 than on the older panny sets? is the screen more reflective? is the set dimmer overall?

I currently have a 50pz85u and am looking to upgrade to the p60u50. I am very happy with the 85u, I'm looking at the u50 so I can upgrade screen size then move the 50" to the bedroom.

I see some negative comments regarding the ABL, the overall brightness and the reflectivity of the u50. Are these comments coming from people who are familiar with plasma technolgy and are just disappointed by the set or are they coming from individuals who are used to TV's set to "torch" mode?
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post #645 of 1067 Old 01-17-2013, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolverine 250r View Post

Do any of you guys have experience comparing the u50 with an older panny plasma? Is the ABL more agressive on the u50 than on the older panny sets? is the screen more reflective? is the set dimmer overall?

I currently have a 50pz85u and am looking to upgrade to the p60u50. I am very happy with the 85u, I'm looking at the u50 so I can upgrade screen size then move the 50" to the bedroom.

I see some negative comments regarding the ABL, the overall brightness and the reflectivity of the u50. Are these comments coming from people who are familiar with plasma technolgy and are just disappointed by the set or are they coming from individuals who are used to TV's set to "torch" mode?
I don't have direct experience but yes the ABL is more aggressive, no ar coating so probably reflective, not sure on the light output but I think there is a cap in the low 30's ftl wise

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post #646 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 05:52 AM
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Update: I've been running the video loop continuously since last post, and I'd say that if the burnt image was 80% removed last time, then now it's about 95%. Just a barely visible shadow outline of the image remains.

I will continue to run the video loop. My Costco receipt says I bought the TV on 11/26/12, so I have a month and a week to decide if I want to keep this set. Don't get me wrong, I like it a lot. It has phenomenal PQ for the price.

Positives:
- price (I only spent $499.99)
- PQ is fantastic
- much deeper darker blacks than competition

Negatives:
- line bleed
- IR
- glass screen (very reflective w/ glare)
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post #647 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 10:22 AM
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I got the calibration videos from this site and used the Basic Settings videos. Going off these, my Brightness changes from 52 on the THX Optimizer to 57. On 57 I can just barely see black number 17 and on 56 I cannot.

On Contrast, I could still see up to 253 on 100, so that's where that will go.

As far as Color and Tint, I read that LCD and plasma TVs don't need these to be changed and are only there to make customers feel more in control. However, I would still like to make sure they are set right. I don't have any blue glasses and if this TV has a blue only mode, I can't find it. Is there any way to simulate blue only mode, like by temporarily setting the Red and Green Cut/Drv to 0 and setting the Blue ones to some value?
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post #648 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idec Sdawkminn View Post

I got the calibration videos from this site and used the Basic Settings videos. Going off these, my Brightness changes from 52 on the THX Optimizer to 57. On 57 I can just barely see black number 17 and on 56 I cannot.

On Contrast, I could still see up to 253 on 100, so that's where that will go.

As far as Color and Tint, I read that LCD and plasma TVs don't need these to be changed and are only there to make customers feel more in control. However, I would still like to make sure they are set right. I don't have any blue glasses and if this TV has a blue only mode, I can't find it. Is there any way to simulate blue only mode, like by temporarily setting the Red and Green Cut/Drv to 0 and setting the Blue ones to some value?
Be careful with your contrast at 100. It is not necessary and makes ir more likely. You can make other changes to brighten up the screen.
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post #649 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 11:07 AM
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Be careful with your contrast at 100. It is not necessary and makes ir more likely. You can make other changes to brighten up the screen.
I see. I wasn't setting it to 100 just because I wanted it brighter. I was setting it to that because that's what the instructions on the AVS HD 709 Basic Settings videos said to do. The instructions read:
Quote:
Generally you want to set white-level to a high setting where the brightest parts of the image look white.

Some displays will show all the bars even on their highest setting. If your electronics still show all the bars at maximum, then clipping is good with the highest setting.

My display falls into this category, so I used it. I'm not disagreeing with you, just saying that this is what the calibration instructions said to do. Is there a highest recommended setting? It would be nice if the instructions in the AVS HD 709 mentioned this in the instructions.
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post #650 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 11:42 AM
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I see. I wasn't setting it to 100 just because I wanted it brighter. I was setting it to that because that's what the instructions on the AVS HD 709 Basic Settings videos said to do. The instructions read:
My display falls into this category, so I used it. I'm not disagreeing with you, just saying that this is what the calibration instructions said to do. Is there a highest recommended setting? It would be nice if the instructions in the AVS HD 709 mentioned this in the instructions.
Bring it down to 90 regardless of what the disc says. You will lose no pq. The disc is made for many panels. Im trying to help you with yours. What is your gamma setting?
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post #651 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 01:44 PM
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Bring it down to 90 regardless of what the disc says. You will lose no pq. The disc is made for many panels. Im trying to help you with yours. What is your gamma setting?
Okay. Is 90 a good max value for all plasmas? If so, it should probably be added to the calibration instructions in that download. I have both brightness and contrast set to 50 right now for the first 100 or 150 hours, not sure which yet.

How do I find my gamma settings? I haven't seen anything mentioning gamma in either the user settings or service menu.
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post #652 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by lfeickert View Post

I've never run my contrast any higher than 50 on any of my plasma displays.

Many people new to plasma displays are trying to match the brightness levels of the LCD/LED panels they see in the stores. It is not necessary to have them that bright in a home environment.
Yeah, I'm not concerned with how the LCD ones look. I'm just concerned with how it would look if I was there in the film. If I was at the same location the characters were, how bright would the objects look to me? I want to set the contrast to match that. So far, it seems brighter is better based on how bright real life objects are.
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post #653 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 02:32 PM
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I find a contrast of 50 on my U50 to be waaaay too dim. I generally have mine at about 80, but even at 100 I never find the brightness of the tv to be eye searing like an lcd can get.
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post #654 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idec Sdawkminn View Post

Okay. Is 90 a good max value for all plasmas? If so, it should probably be added to the calibration instructions in that download. I have both brightness and contrast set to 50 right now for the first 100 or 150 hours, not sure which yet.

How do I find my gamma settings? I haven't seen anything mentioning gamma in either the user settings or service menu.
I apologize. I am running back and forth between about 25 threads. Gamma is in the "Pro Settings" which are only available on the STs and up. If you think 100 contrast looks good I am not going to tell you how to set your tv. Just be aware that you are increasing the chances of ir. Most don't set it higher than 90 for the 2012 Pannys. Not just because of ir but because there is no gain in pq.

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post #655 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I apologize. I am running back and forth between about 25 threads. Gamma is in the "Pro Settings" which are only available on the STs and up. If you think 100 contrast looks good I am not going to tell you how to set your tv. Just be aware that you are increasing the chances of ir. Most don't set it higher than 90 for the 2012 Pannys. Not just because of ir but because there is no gain in pq.
That's fine, I'm not saying I'll keep it at 100. 90 is fine. I just want it set closest to how it looked on the director's monitor. All the calibration guides seem to say to set the white level as high as possible while still being able to see the specified off-white areas. Based on that, it seems like higher contrast is more accurate, which would be 90 in this case. 50 might be more accurate, but it seems less likely based on how the calibration guides are made.

How can I tell what is most accurate between 50 and 90?
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post #656 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idec Sdawkminn View Post

That's fine, I'm not saying I'll keep it at 100. 90 is fine. I just want it set closest to how it looked on the director's monitor. All the calibration guides seem to say to set the white level as high as possible while still being able to see the specified off-white areas. Based on that, it seems like higher contrast is more accurate, which would be 90 in this case. 50 might be more accurate, but it seems less likely based on how the calibration guides are made.

How can I tell what is most accurate between 50 and 90?
Buy some exotic testing equipment and learn how to use it or hire a professional calibrator. There is far more to picture accuracy than your contrast setting.

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post #657 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Buy some exotic testing equipment and learn how to use it or hire a professional calibrator. There is far more to picture accuracy than your contrast setting.
I realize that. I'm saying that so far, nothing seems to specify how to set Contrast besides looking at white clipping images. Is Contrast more of a personal preference and doesn't affect PQ? Some people set it to 50, some 60, some 70, etc. Is that because the white clips higher than that, making it less accurate? Or is it because they just don't like it brighter and it has nothing to do with accuracy?
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post #658 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idec Sdawkminn View Post

I realize that. I'm saying that so far, nothing seems to specify how to set Contrast besides looking at white clipping images. Is Contrast more of a personal preference and doesn't affect PQ? Some people set it to 50, some 60, some 70, etc. Is that because the white clips higher than that, making it less accurate? Or is it because they just don't like it brighter and it has nothing to do with accuracy?
The latter mostly but where you set the contrast has to do with where some of the other settings are as well. They all affect each other. It also depends on each particular panel and the environment that you are viewing it in.
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post #659 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 07:33 PM
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Had the 60 for a little over a month from amazon. Loving it. Using the cnet settings for TV/Blurays exept with contrast down to like 78 for break in and now at like 87 and trying brightness at like 52 instead of 56 as I think I read that could help with grain in grey/dark scenes. Most blu rays and good tv channels look incredible, but just watched Dredd on blu ray and the grain in the backround on all the grayish scenes was almost unbearable, and obviously some tv channels/movies just look like crap no matter what.

Anyone have any good settings for videogames? Been using game mode, normal color mode, with sharpness 10-20, brightness 56 and contrast around 80. Rest default. Not sure how optimal this is?

Overall this is a fantastic tv, could not be more happy considering the price. I view smart tv/3D as worthless gimmicks, I mean you can buy a $70 blu ray player or hook up any video game system and bam smart tv... so this set is perfect to me.

Klipsch RF-3 Fronts
Klipsch RC-42-II Center
Klipsch RF-3 Side Surrounds
Klipsch RS-41 II Rear Surrounds
Klipsch KSW-12 Sub
Yamaha Rx-V667
Panasonic TC-P60U50 Plasma
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post #660 of 1067 Old 01-18-2013, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

The latter mostly but where you set the contrast has to do with where some of the other settings are as well. They all affect each other. It also depends on each particular panel and the environment that you are viewing it in.
Thanks, that's what I was confused about. It probably affects gamma a lot. Once I get some meters one way or another, I'll have to figure out what the areas the Red cutoff affects and what areas the Red drive affects. I'm assuming cutoff is 0-50% and drive is 51-100% or something.
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