The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 1571 Old 02-08-2013, 02:55 PM
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Sometimes it's the source, too. On some movies black can be tinted red, but on Diamonds are Forever, in Las Vegas, blacks were quite yellow.
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post #722 of 1571 Old 02-08-2013, 03:08 PM
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You're absolutely right, Anikun, but I've had the red tint over multiple titles. Got any tips for adjusting the WB to null that out? Such as reducing the R-Cut or boosting the G/B-Cut? Just looking for some general direction. Thank you guys so far!

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post #723 of 1571 Old 02-08-2013, 06:15 PM
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I would try reducing R-Cut one or two ticks, but it will affect your R-Gain. If your R-Gain is already FF, then you won't be able to increase it any further.
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post #724 of 1571 Old 02-08-2013, 09:43 PM
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I am seeing red specks in areas that are suppose to be black too, but these disappear completely if I adjust brightness from 50 to 47. These specks are only visible up close though.

Cisco 8742HDC - 7.2.0_5 ODN | Panasonic UT50 | Panasonic P46U1
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post #725 of 1571 Old 02-08-2013, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SanchoPanza View Post

or, get a receiver that upsacles to 1080p/24 cool.gif
Yes The DVR hooked to the 50UT50 does but I don't think the HR20 is capable. What I don't understand is if the DVR upscales why can't one change the format above 1080i. I have to spend some time trying out 2D=3D but still have not had time to hook up and run ethernet cable. Blue Ray looses signal wireless and I don't want to buy wireless extender.
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post #726 of 1571 Old 02-08-2013, 10:15 PM
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is the gamma supposed to be 2.2 or 2.4 or 2.6? i have it on 2.6


Also other settings:

Cinema
Contrast: 72
brightness: +2 (or 52)

everything else off except PNR

still have to play with advanced settings.
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post #727 of 1571 Old 02-08-2013, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therealjustin View Post

I am seeing red specks in areas that are suppose to be black too, but these disappear completely if I adjust brightness from 50 to 47. These specks are only visible up close though.

Make sure if you lower brightness that much that you brightness test pattern still shows bar 16 black and 17 still blinking. If 17 is not blinking you lowered brightness too much. pathofneo said D-Nice had 16 with dithering visible, that's where I chose to set 17. I thought is that 16 is supposed to be black so no dithering should be seen.
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post #728 of 1571 Old 02-10-2013, 12:00 AM
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Just curious why everyone uses such low contrast settings. The CNET settings have contrast at 100, due to the brightness being somewhat low on Cinema. On the U50 they even have contrast on 96 for the brighter Custom mode. I'm assuming the lower setting is because of the ABL? When I had this set it looked great in Cinema and Custom at the CNET settings, the only problem was that the set just couldn't maintain that level of brightness output. By that, I mean it wasn't even close, any sort of moderately bright content dimmed the screen considerably. I could understand if CNET was using contrast settings that were way too high, but I don't believe that was the case.
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post #729 of 1571 Old 02-10-2013, 03:38 AM
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I've been playing with anikun's settings for a week or so. I've been going back and forth between his warm wb settings and my defaults. All the standard menu settings are pretty similar with the exception of contrast. I watch in total darkness and I find contrast set around 75 is the most pleasing to the eye. I also found that having the contrast set any higher than that made some of the colors, especially red look unrealistic. Clipping? I actually prefer the default wb settings to anikun's. Changing the wb caused me to loose definition in the blacks. I went back to the brightness setting image from avs709 disk and noticed that the entire image had gotten darker and very red. When I looked up close primarily red pixels were flashing in bar 17 and far fewer of them then before. Did this happen to anyone else?

I have a 60UT50 which I'm sure could explain some of the differences. Anyone else with a 60 inch try anikun's wb settings. Maybe that's how it's supposed to look when close to d65. I did use clicks and not the actual values when setting wb. Hopefully I'll have a calman set up within the next few months. Then I can post my own findings.

Baraka is visually stunning and really helped me dial in my contrast. If you haven't seen it, you should.
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post #730 of 1571 Old 02-10-2013, 09:34 AM
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I must be blind but I cannot find Neo/Rich B's UT50 settings anywhere on this thread that you all keep talking about. Can somebody please re-post?
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post #731 of 1571 Old 02-10-2013, 03:16 PM
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Hello, newbie here. Just got my Panasonic 55UT50 at Costco for $750, great deal right! I am seeing some unusual "stutter" or "frameyness" to the image when the image moves around at certain speeds. It occurs most when the image is panning left to right or visa versa. I am not a AV guru at all so my ability to eve describe these issues is limited.

Is there a way to limit this effect with some settings or calibration? Once I started seeing it I can't stop seeing it. I've had the set for only 2 days and about 6 hours of on time.

Another issue I am seeing is this "vibration" effect to the image pixels, when i get my face up to the screen. For example I see these blue pixels in say the blacks when i don't think they should be there. This problem is less of a concern to me because from a viewing distance you can't see it but from a couple feet you can.

Appreciate any advice, thank you.
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post #732 of 1571 Old 02-10-2013, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meandmunch View Post

Hello, newbie here. Just got my Panasonic 55UT50 at Costco for $750, great deal right! I am seeing some unusual "stutter" or "frameyness" to the image when the image moves around at certain speeds. It occurs most when the image is panning left to right or visa versa. I am not a AV guru at all so my ability to eve describe these issues is limited.

Is there a way to limit this effect with some settings or calibration? Once I started seeing it I can't stop seeing it. I've had the set for only 2 days and about 6 hours of on time.

Another issue I am seeing is this "vibration" effect to the image pixels, when i get my face up to the screen. For example I see these blue pixels in say the blacks when i don't think they should be there. This problem is less of a concern to me because from a viewing distance you can't see it but from a couple feet you can.

Appreciate any advice, thank you.

I imagine that's normal, but you can always try the smoothing option to see if it's something you would prefer. Your blacks not being completely black is either due to the particular scene you were watching or perhaps your brightness is set too high.
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post #733 of 1571 Old 02-10-2013, 04:35 PM
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post #734 of 1571 Old 02-10-2013, 06:22 PM
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How could the "Stutter" be considered normal? I mean, either my set has a problem, others can't see it or others consider it acceptable.

Any one else experience this?

I was watching an episode of doctor who, the camera panned along the top of a table slowly, showing the audience these little items and such, but holy crap it felt like it was refreshing a frame ever quarter to half second and as soon as the camera stopped panning from right to left if I remember right the picture was stable again.
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post #735 of 1571 Old 02-10-2013, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyohhh View Post

Okay folks, I just gave Anikun's WB settings (via Buddha's click procedure) a shot on my 50UT50. The colors popped, skin tone was great.. but the blacks... they were red-ish! Like, disturbingly RED! I imagine this is because not every TV has the same WB settings from default so I wanted to see if there was a way I could combat this tinting if I show you my defaults.

R-Cut -- 80
G-Cut -- 80
B-Cut -- 80

R-Drv -- FF
G-Drv -- F0
B-Drv -- 7C

All-Cut -- 80
All-Drv -- FF

Any ideas how to correct those reddish blacks? That seemed to be the only issue I could see. Thanks!

UPDATE: So it may have been the movie's fault! I tested the settings at the beginning-of-time scene from the Blu-Ray "The Tree of Life" and that shot may have just been tinted a little more red per the swirling clouds. I tested "Constantine" and "Apollo 13" and they looked pretty solid. Maybe I'm just being a little paranoid, lol. Is it worth it to mention though that when it's a black image, there are only red "pixels" dancing (phosphors, if that's the correct term)? No green or blue to be found.

I have had the exact same experience when plugging in the SM settings posted here! I'm not so sure it is content dependent however, because it appears to be the case when calibrating the brightness and contrast with the Disney WOW bluray disc. I'd REALLY like to be able to maximize the pq of this set, but FOR ME the service menu adjustments don't seem to be the ticket. I have to say though that I'm more than pleased with my 50UT50 thus far! It was between this and the Samsung PN51E530 (which my dad already owns,) and I can say without hesitation that I'm glad that I went with the UT50.
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post #736 of 1571 Old 02-10-2013, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by wildcatstrat View Post

I have had the exact same experience when plugging in the SM settings posted here! I'm not so sure it is content dependent however, because it appears to be the case when calibrating the brightness and contrast with the Disney WOW bluray disc. I'd REALLY like to be able to maximize the pq of this set, but FOR ME the service menu adjustments don't seem to be the ticket. I have to say though that I'm more than pleased with my 50UT50 thus far! It was between this and the Samsung PN51E530 (which my dad already owns,) and I can say without hesitation that I'm glad that I went with the UT50.

No matter what anyone says WB varies from set to set there is no substitute for a diy or pro cal with a meter, yes you can get close in some cases with others settings but not always.

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post #737 of 1571 Old 02-10-2013, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post

No matter what anyone says WB varies from set to set there is no substitute for a diy or pro cal with a meter, yes you can get close in some cases with others settings but not always.

That definitely seems to be the case. Like I said though, I'm more than happy with the results I've gotten with the Disney WOW bluray. I just want to get the absolute most out of my new set without having to get it "professionally" calibrated.
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post #738 of 1571 Old 02-10-2013, 07:46 PM
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post #739 of 1571 Old 02-11-2013, 01:10 AM
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Hope someone could help me with the following 2 problems. smile.gif
I have an HTPC on FM2 Basis with the A6 5400 Black Edition APU and a Asus FM2 A85 Motherboard. So, everytime i boot i can not see the Bios.The Screen on the UT50 is black, or with diffrent colours, till to Windows Login Screen.From then on everything is normal.
Is this a known problem or a specific problem only on my UT50 ?

Next, when i turn on the UT50, i have no TV picture and sound but i see the Menü and everything else. I must push the TV off and on, then it is ok.

Have anyone else problems like this or an answer to fix this ?

I have 2 days left to bring the TV back or change it...
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post #740 of 1571 Old 02-11-2013, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolguyf View Post

Here are my white-balance settings:

R-Cut: 6E
G-Cut: 6A
B-Cut: 6A

Default R G B Drive. I believe All-Cut changes automatically when reducing R-Cut.

Here are my picture settings: Custom:

Contrast: 100
Brightness: 56
Sharpness: 50
Color: 48
Tint: -1

Color Temp: Normal

Noise Reduction: Auto

Motion: Strong (probably whatever your preference is)

RGB Range: Standard
Content: Off or Auto

The key to making this TV look awesome are mainly the R-G-B-Cut settings. Give it a try.


You can't adjust the color brightness values and leave color contrast values and expect to have a proper calibration. Changing one value affects all the others, which is why you need a meter. It might look good, but that doesn't guarantee that it's right.
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post #741 of 1571 Old 02-11-2013, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

You can't adjust the color brightness values and leave color contrast values and expect to have a proper calibration. Changing one value affects all the others, which is why you need a meter. It might look good, but that doesn't guarantee that it's right.

So basically without a meter I'm wasting my time messing with the service menu settings? That's okay if that is in fact the case. There's no way I could PERSONALLY justify (or convince my wife) spending another couple of hundred dollars on one, so I suppose I will leave well enough alone. As I said before, I am absolutely thrilled with the pq of my new set, especially after tweaking it with the Disney WOW disc. Just curious though...is there a test that can be performed with the Disney disc to properly set white balance? I'm guessing the answer is, "No. You need a meter for that," but I just thought I'd ask. Thanks so much for all of the insight!
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post #742 of 1571 Old 02-11-2013, 11:44 AM
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You need a meter in order to see what you're actually doing. But white balance, on a two point system is just like setting brightness and contrast, except it's for each primary. Increasing or decreasing one affects the other and adjusting one color affects the balance of all three.
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post #743 of 1571 Old 02-11-2013, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

You need a meter in order to see what you're actually doing. But white balance, on a two point system is just like setting brightness and contrast, except it's for each primary. Increasing or decreasing one affects the other and adjusting one color affects the balance of all three.

I understand. Well....I understand that much of this is beyond my level of experience. I'm sure that I'm probably not getting a completely accurate picture by only calibrating basic parameters (contrast, brightness, color, tint, etc.,) but I can live with that and be satisfied with what I do have: a $699 tv that I quite possibly prefer to the Samsung PN51D6500 that cost nearly double that I purchased for my living room in 2011.
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post #744 of 1571 Old 02-11-2013, 03:00 PM
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If you were considering paying Geek Squad $250 to calibrate, you could spend that and get an i1 display pro and be able to calibrate when you want and fix changes. The HCFR software is all right, it works, and you can calibrate with it. It's true that calman and chroma pure are much easier to understand for a new calibrator.
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post #745 of 1571 Old 02-12-2013, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

If you were considering paying Geek Squad $250 to calibrate, you could spend that and get an i1 display pro and be able to calibrate when you want and fix changes. The HCFR software is all right, it works, and you can calibrate with it. It's true that calman and chroma pure are much easier to understand for a new calibrator.

I never seriously considered professional calibration (i.e. Geek Squad.) It took a lot of convincing for me to even buy the tv itself, so I'll just be content with what I have....for now. wink.gif Maybe somewhere down the road I'll be able to invest a little bit more into it, but there are lots of other things that are a higher priority than my home theater system. I greatly appreciate all of the helpful advice and honest answers though. So glad zee internet is here, otherwise I'd really be clueless!
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post #746 of 1571 Old 02-12-2013, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pistol-pete View Post

Here is everything you need. Getting into the service menu and making adjustments isn't as difficult as it sounds and it make a HUGE difference in picture. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1412033/the-official-panasonic-ut50-settings-issues-thread/600#post_22834972

I'm apprehensive to screw with the service menu since:
  • Difficult to change back if I think the results look off.
  • TV has only seen 120 or so hours of use and the panel isn't fully settled in, nor will it be for a while.
  • Don't want to do anything to mess with the 90 day return policy.
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post #747 of 1571 Old 02-12-2013, 06:18 PM
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If youre apprehensive about it dont do it

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post #748 of 1571 Old 02-12-2013, 09:27 PM
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Maybe someone can tell me if this is normal or not. My UT50 when I'm on my HTPC and I open a window like "my computer" for instance the screen dims a little. When I minimze the window the image goes back to the original brightness. When I open the window back up it goes back to dim. Seems its trying to keep the contrast down automatically but i have CATS disabled.

I've swapped out video cards and used a different HDMI cable not going through my avr. Anyone else experience this?
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post #749 of 1571 Old 02-12-2013, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rigo Contreras View Post

Maybe someone can tell me if this is normal or not. My UT50 when I'm on my HTPC and I open a window like "my computer" for instance the screen dims a little. When I minimze the window the image goes back to the original brightness. When I open the window back up it goes back to dim. Seems its trying to keep the contrast down automatically but i have CATS disabled.

I've swapped out video cards and used a different HDMI cable not going through my avr. Anyone else experience this?

You're describing the ABL. It's been a standard feature in plasmas since 2008. It cannot be turned off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHndICrpxqs
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post #750 of 1571 Old 02-12-2013, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

You're describing the ABL. It's been a standard feature in plasmas since 2008. It cannot be turned off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHndICrpxqs

Thanks for the quick response that is whats happening.
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