The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 1570 Old 03-09-2013, 04:06 AM
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Hi, I wrote this in the other thread, sorry:
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Originally Posted by nbnt View Post

Hi, again

Thanks for the help guys, but just 2 days after using this TV, I think it just broke. frown.giffrown.giffrown.gif

While I was playing on my X360, I heard this sound (it's like the clicking sound when you turn it on) and suddenly, the right quarter of the screen just went black, a big black vertical bar. Just like that.

Is there any simple solution to this? frown.gif
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post #992 of 1570 Old 03-09-2013, 06:08 AM
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Return it.
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post #993 of 1570 Old 03-09-2013, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damag0r View Post

Actually... this makes me want to ask a question... the "static" looking noise I see on plasmas and DLPs when I get up REALLY close, is that the dithering? Is it the weird noise I see around movement on plasmas? Or both?

This is what I was complaining about a couple pages back. I've been complaining, but I'm alone (at least according to panasonic). But I'm trained to notice these things.
My problems are these:
1) the standard mode (out of the box) has this "noise", for lack of a better term. It may be the result of some fancy image processing, but I don't know the hardware on that level. If you reset the TV and bring up the menus to setup the TV these screens show this noise, or movement. There is a fix, change to cinema mode and turn off some of the video processing "features" and these menu images become rock solid in color. This is good for 2D.

2) 3D is a different beast, it has the same pixel movement even with a solid color image (say the menus). It doesn't matter what mode you're in, the picutre always has motion. In the old days this use to be called dot-crawl, and was ususally caused by rf-noise which was collected by the cabling. Good shielded cables would show this less. But, with the TV I'm not sure what's going on. I don't have experience with the new 3d display technologies. But I think it may have something to do with the frame sequental display processing.

Most people won't notice this noise at normal viewing distances. I'm not one of those normal people. I can see this from greater than 10 feet away, some need to get up close to see.
Imagine if your PC screen did the same thing... you eyes would be bothered. (this is one of the reasons original computer monitors were monochorme).

The biggest problem is, unlike 2d mode where a different display mode fixes most of this movement the same is not true about 3d. All 3d display modes are equally bad, although some are worse.

My concern is, I don't think it needs to be there. I'm not sure panasonic is aware this is happening and a simple fix may fix it. This may also be required, but given the way 2d operates, I'd guess otherwise. I'm trying to get to get them to look at it, but I'm only one voice. This voice has a background in video processing, but that just means I know something isn't right.
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post #994 of 1570 Old 03-09-2013, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbnt View Post

Hi, I wrote this in the other thread, sorry:
Is there any simple solution to this? frown.gif

You can try to reset the TV.

Press volume down while pressing MENU on the remote for 2-5 seconds. It should reset back to the factory default. That should at least tell you if it's a hardware or software problem.
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post #995 of 1570 Old 03-09-2013, 08:27 AM
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You shouldn't expect anything worthy from Standard mode, though, since it's the Energy Star compliant mode. It's dim, it's dull, and it just sucks. It's worthless to us, but for Panasonic they can make the TV look like it does great in terms of efficiency. I think the annual cost tag calculates out to like 130 watts, but I'm pretty sure the settings I use run around 430 watts. So it runs about that same as a computer. To me that doesn't make it an energy hog - only compared to an LED backlit TV.
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post #996 of 1570 Old 03-09-2013, 12:17 PM
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I just got my p55ut50 hooked up last night, I am pretty much only going to use this as a gaming display along with the kids watching blu-rays. I have a p65GT50 in the same room that we use for all tv/movie watching. Who's picture settings would be best for this situation. I know this is a personal preference question but figured one might favor gaming a bit, don't think the kids really care what there movies look like.
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post #997 of 1570 Old 03-09-2013, 05:00 PM
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Anikun, I had a question about your settings for 3D Cinema Mode. In the settings that were posted before (condensed in post #600,) the temperature setting for 3D Cinema Mode is Warm, but then in the white-balance settings you updated recently, we're adjusting the Cool settings. Should we be using Cool for both the white balance and temp settings in the regular settings for 3D Cinema Mode? Or am I dense and missing something? (That does happen more than I'd like to admit.)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #998 of 1570 Old 03-09-2013, 05:09 PM
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In case I didn't clarify properly, use warm for 2D and cool for 3D.
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post #999 of 1570 Old 03-09-2013, 05:22 PM
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Thank you so much! I must have missed something somewhere, and this explains why my 3D was looking a little off. Not bad, just off.
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post #1000 of 1570 Old 03-09-2013, 07:11 PM
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Well, if you used Warm and set blue to -90 clicks or whatever the setting is, I think you'd run out of color before you got that many clicks in. smile.gif
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post #1001 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 05:30 AM
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Does anyone know what the latest firmware is for the UT series? Are these updates strictly for the apps or is there anything meaningful? I ask because i will need to run a cable to the tv to do the update.
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post #1002 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 06:38 AM
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1.230 is the latest. Don't know whether or not update is about apps, but that's likely.

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post #1003 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 07:11 AM
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It also changes the TVs zoom to Size HD 1 overscan when entering the service menu.
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post #1004 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 08:05 AM
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Hi guys

I am from South Africa and got my 50UT50 on Thursday based on my research.Up till now I have none of the buzzing or IR after watching lots of sports and movies with logo's on the screen

I have used the settings provided and will agree that's its best at night when its the dark.

I have a problem watching cricket at 50hz.When the ball rolls across the grass there is a flicker when it rolls.

Can I fix this with a setting I might have missed out on?
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post #1005 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 10:36 AM
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hi every, Im new here just bought a p55ut50 looking for a good calibration setting thanks, cant find pathofneo settings
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post #1006 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martyvv View Post

hi every, Im new here just bought a p55ut50 looking for a good calibration setting thanks, cant find pathofneo settings

Use anikun's settings. Look back a few pages.
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post #1007 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 12:01 PM
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So after watching quite a few hockey games on the 60UT50 I just can't adjust to how the screen brightens and dims during play. I have noticed others saying this is from camera flashes in the stadium, and its just how the tv responds to this. My question is, is there any settings on this tv that can at least help reduce this effect?

Hockey next to movies is my main source of viewing on this tv, and if continues to do this distracting bright-dim thing I may just return it. Sad because PQ is the best of any tv i've ever owned.
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post #1008 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Weatherbee View Post

So after watching quite a few hockey games on the 60UT50 I just can't adjust to how the screen brightens and dims during play. I have noticed others saying this is from camera flashes in the stadium, and its just how the tv responds to this. My question is, is there any settings on this tv that can at least help reduce this effect?

Hockey next to movies is my main source of viewing on this tv, and if continues to do this distracting bright-dim thing I may just return it. Sad because PQ is the best of any tv i've ever owned.

Reducing your contrast and using normal/cool is your best bet. I'm curious what's so distracting though, I can watch hockey just fine, not that I'm an avid hockey viewer. The ABL is going to cause the ice to appear dimmer or brighter depending on if the shot is mainly focused on just the ice or if it includes a lot of the players and audience, etc. Turning down contrast will reduce that effect, and altering the color temp. will make the ice appear brighter. You won't be able to stop the effects of the camera flashes/strobe lights, but hopefully that will reduce it slightly.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

Reducing your contrast and using normal/cool is your best bet. I'm curious what's so distracting though, I can watch hockey just fine, not that I'm an avid hockey viewer. The ABL is going to cause the ice to appear dimmer or brighter depending on if the shot is mainly focused on just the ice or if it includes a lot of the players and audience, etc. Turning down contrast will reduce that effect, and altering the color temp. will make the ice appear brighter. You won't be able to stop the effects of the camera flashes/strobe lights, but hopefully that will reduce it slightly.

I will try those settings, thanks. I am an avid hockey fan (Canadian), and having over family and friends and they noticed the effect as well without my saying. It's not flashes or strobes that are annoying, rather the screen/ice brightening and staying that way for a few seconds. On my old LCD you would just see camera flashes lasting milliseconds and the screen/ice remains the same brightness which was totally acceptable in my opinion.

What does ABL stand for? Is that what i'm experiencing on the 60UT50; again at least 15-20 time per period the ice and screen brighten quickly and doesn't dim for a second, sometimes more. It's enough time to allow my eyes to adjust to a brighter ice, and in turn when it dims my eyes need to re-adjust again as it almost seems too dim.
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post #1010 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Weatherbee View Post

I will try those settings, thanks. I am an avid hockey fan (Canadian), and having over family and friends and they noticed the effect as well without my saying. It's not flashes or strobes that are annoying, rather the screen/ice brightening and staying that way for a few seconds. On my old LCD you would just see camera flashes lasting milliseconds and the screen/ice remains the same brightness which was totally acceptable in my opinion.

What does ABL stand for? Is that what i'm experiencing on the 60UT50; again at least 15-20 time per period the ice and screen brighten quickly and doesn't dim for a second, sometimes more. It's enough time to allow my eyes to adjust to a brighter ice, and in turn when it dims my eyes need to re-adjust again as it almost seems too dim.

I see. You're not really being affected by the brief flashes then, you're just seeing the difference in light output due to the ABL. The ABL stands for Automatic Brightness Limiter, it's built in and can't be turned off. Depending on how bright the overall screen is, it will dim the overall brightness output. The screen can stay bright enough that it's not very intrusive on most content, but if the screen needs to be very bright it's easily spotted. On second thought I would try leaving the contrast alone and altering the temperature first. If that still doesn't work for you then you're going to have to turn down the contrast to the point where the changes due to the ABL are much less intrusive. Of course by doing that you risk viewing a dimmer looking picture so that all views remain consistent, but it might help you adjust better.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Smith View Post

Hi guys

I am from South Africa and got my 50UT50 on Thursday based on my research.Up till now I have none of the buzzing or IR after watching lots of sports and movies with logo's on the screen

I have used the settings provided and will agree that's its best at night when its the dark.

I have a problem watching cricket at 50hz.When the ball rolls across the grass there is a flicker when it rolls.

Can I fix this with a setting I might have missed out on?

Bump anyone
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post #1012 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Smith View Post

Bump anyone

I'm going to say no, but I don't see why it would flicker either.
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post #1013 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

I see. You're not really being affected by the brief flashes then, you're just seeing the difference in light output due to the ABL. The ABL stands for Automatic Brightness Limiter, it's built in and can't be turned off. Depending on how bright the overall screen is, it will dim the overall brightness output. The screen can stay bright enough that it's not very intrusive on most content, but if the screen needs to be very bright it's easily spotted. On second thought I would try leaving the contrast alone and altering the temperature first. If that still doesn't work for you then you're going to have to turn down the contrast to the point where the changes due to the ABL are much less intrusive. Of course by doing that you risk viewing a dimmer looking picture so that all views remain consistent, but it might help you adjust better.

Thanks JSpectre, I'll try it on the cool setting with high contrast first. I don't think I could enjoy with the contrast lowered anyways. Appreciate the information on the ABL, and maybe i'll get used to this feature over time.
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post #1014 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 06:31 PM
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So I had my UT50 delivered on the 6th, I hooked up my Hopper to HDMI1 and that worked fine, but when I went to hook up my PS3 to HDMI2 I got nothing. I held down the power button on the PS3 to reset the display settings and still nothing. I hooked it up with my component cables and I get a picture but its in black and white. With both cables hooked, up the PS3 recognizes the HDMI cable but it doesnt want to work. I hooked it up to my old tv with the component cables and the picture was right. Has anyone ever experienced this? Its pretty annoying that I cant get my PS3 set up. One more question, are there only certain wifi adapters that work with this tv? If anyone has anything that will help I will really appreciate it! Thanks for the help
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post #1015 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 08:46 PM
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I will need the Panasonic Wifi adapter, although there were posts of a different brand possibly working. I keep my TV connected by cable, it's more reliable. Check on your PS3 for the output settings, make sure it's set to HDMI in case it's not set properly. I don't have a PS3, but I would expect the option to be similar to the S580 and S590 that I own.
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post #1016 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

I will need the Panasonic Wifi adapter, although there were posts of a different brand possibly working. I keep my TV connected by cable, it's more reliable. Check on your PS3 for the output settings, make sure it's set to HDMI in case it's not set properly. I don't have a PS3, but I would expect the option to be similar to the S580 and S590 that I own.

I keep mine connected via cat5e as well for reliability. Only down side to that is the remote app for iphone will only work with the tv connected via wifi. Way to go eh.
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post #1017 of 1570 Old 03-10-2013, 09:06 PM
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post #1018 of 1570 Old 03-11-2013, 03:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff D View Post

This is what I was complaining about a couple pages back. I've been complaining, but I'm alone (at least according to panasonic). But I'm trained to notice these things.
My problems are these:
1) the standard mode (out of the box) has this "noise", for lack of a better term. It may be the result of some fancy image processing, but I don't know the hardware on that level. If you reset the TV and bring up the menus to setup the TV these screens show this noise, or movement. There is a fix, change to cinema mode and turn off some of the video processing "features" and these menu images become rock solid in color. This is good for 2D.

2) 3D is a different beast, it has the same pixel movement even with a solid color image (say the menus). It doesn't matter what mode you're in, the picutre always has motion. In the old days this use to be called dot-crawl, and was ususally caused by rf-noise which was collected by the cabling. Good shielded cables would show this less. But, with the TV I'm not sure what's going on. I don't have experience with the new 3d display technologies. But I think it may have something to do with the frame sequental display processing.

Most people won't notice this noise at normal viewing distances. I'm not one of those normal people. I can see this from greater than 10 feet away, some need to get up close to see.
Imagine if your PC screen did the same thing... you eyes would be bothered. (this is one of the reasons original computer monitors were monochorme).

The biggest problem is, unlike 2d mode where a different display mode fixes most of this movement the same is not true about 3d. All 3d display modes are equally bad, although some are worse.

My concern is, I don't think it needs to be there. I'm not sure panasonic is aware this is happening and a simple fix may fix it. This may also be required, but given the way 2d operates, I'd guess otherwise. I'm trying to get to get them to look at it, but I'm only one voice. This voice has a background in video processing, but that just means I know something isn't right.

I think we're seeing two different things. What I'm talking about I notice on all plasmas I've seen. Also, I notice the "static" with DLP projectors too... but it's only noticeable if I'm like inches away from the screen. I never use standard mode, and I've yet to try out 3d even though I bought a pair of glasses. There's also the dithering noise when there is movement but it's become harder and harder for me to notice... I really only notice when I'm sitting like 5ft or less away. It's still WAY better than the kind of blur/ghosting I see on all LCDs when there is movement though.
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post #1019 of 1570 Old 03-11-2013, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr Smith View Post

Bump anyone

Did you make any changes to the motion smoothing mode? It's under advanced picture settings. What I saw with this on was jerky movement (of people) on the screen. It may be something to play around with and see if you can find a better mode. Turning it off was the only option for me.
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post #1020 of 1570 Old 03-11-2013, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff D View Post

This is what I was complaining about a couple pages back. I've been complaining, but I'm alone (at least according to panasonic). But I'm trained to notice these things.
My problems are these:
1) the standard mode (out of the box) has this "noise", for lack of a better term. It may be the result of some fancy image processing, but I don't know the hardware on that level. If you reset the TV and bring up the menus to setup the TV these screens show this noise, or movement. There is a fix, change to cinema mode and turn off some of the video processing "features" and these menu images become rock solid in color. This is good for 2D.

2) 3D is a different beast, it has the same pixel movement even with a solid color image (say the menus). It doesn't matter what mode you're in, the picutre always has motion. In the old days this use to be called dot-crawl, and was ususally caused by rf-noise which was collected by the cabling. Good shielded cables would show this less. But, with the TV I'm not sure what's going on. I don't have experience with the new 3d display technologies. But I think it may have something to do with the frame sequental display processing.

Most people won't notice this noise at normal viewing distances. I'm not one of those normal people. I can see this from greater than 10 feet away, some need to get up close to see.
Imagine if your PC screen did the same thing... you eyes would be bothered. (this is one of the reasons original computer monitors were monochorme).

The biggest problem is, unlike 2d mode where a different display mode fixes most of this movement the same is not true about 3d. All 3d display modes are equally bad, although some are worse.

My concern is, I don't think it needs to be there. I'm not sure panasonic is aware this is happening and a simple fix may fix it. This may also be required, but given the way 2d operates, I'd guess otherwise. I'm trying to get to get them to look at it, but I'm only one voice. This voice has a background in video processing, but that just means I know something isn't right.

If dithering really bothers you that much and you see it at your nornal viewing distance you are wasting your time with plasma, It is inherent in the technology nothing you or anyone else can do about it. You can call Panasonic a 1000 times and it won't change the basic screen rendering technology. It is definitely worse in standard mode but as others have mentined that is a baiscally worthless picture mode.

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