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post #1 of 25 Old 06-25-2012, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I was wondering what you guys thought about if the price difference between the TCP50GT50 and the TCP50ST50 was worth it? The sale ends today so I kinda have to make a decision now.

The GT is - $1249.99
The ST is - $999.99

Both with free shipping. I don't watch a lot of tv, mostly connect my laptop through the receiver and watch a lot of blu rays. I was planning on getting a ps3 to sometimes game on the tv too. I hope this doesn't cause any burn in issues. I know to be careful with the HUDs in some games...

Coming from a Vizio 27'' 720p worthless POS tv here.... This will be in a very very dark bedroom/theater sorta thing where the seats are about 5-6' away from the tv.

Thanks guys!

This is what the sale guy said

"Yes there is a huge difference between the ST and the GT Model, the GT has almost double the shades of gradation, you will get better white and better black, it is also THX certified meaning it is calibrated much nicer from the manufacture."
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post #2 of 25 Old 06-25-2012, 04:23 PM
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I have not been able to compare the two directly myself; however, the general consensus seems to be the the ST and GT have the same picture quality, and the increased steps of gradation of the GT are not perceivable to even those with the most discerning eyes (even after a full professional calibration). The picture adjustments available in each are the same too. Unless you need the additional features of the GT, it is generally considered to not be worth the extra $250
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post #3 of 25 Old 06-25-2012, 04:25 PM
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According to many top calibrators and reviewers, the ST is more of a value since the extras on the GT are either not really visible or are not needed if you do a user custom calibration (as good or better than THX mode)
Unless you really need some of the extra GT features like one extra HDMI port, the VGA port, dual core CPU for faster internet apps, the ST is a great value.
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post #4 of 25 Old 06-25-2012, 04:27 PM
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From a PQ standpoint, the two are virtually identical.

From a feature standpoint (things that do not affect or enhance PQ), the GT has more going for it. Whether those things (dual processor, extra HDMI and USB ports, extra modes, etc) are worth $250 is up to you.
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post #5 of 25 Old 06-25-2012, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright, I am ordering the ST right now.
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post #6 of 25 Old 06-25-2012, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Aus1095 View Post

Alright, I am ordering the ST right now.

Good decision.smile.gif
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post #7 of 25 Old 06-25-2012, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RWetmore View Post

Good decision.smile.gif

My first actual nice tv, being 16 it takes awhile to save up for all this home theater stuff. I am very excited, should be way way better then the Vizio I have now. I will burn the break in disk in the next few days. I am leaving for a week to go on vacation with my family. I was wondering If I could leave it running on the burn in disk while I am gone but I am too afraid to leave it on for over a week in case something freezes up.
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post #8 of 25 Old 06-25-2012, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Aus1095 View Post

My first actual nice tv, being 16 it takes awhile to save up for all this home theater stuff. I am very excited, should be way way better then the Vizio I have now. I will burn the break in disk in the next few days. I am leaving for a week to go on vacation with my family. I was wondering If I could leave it running on the burn in disk while I am gone but I am too afraid to leave it on for over a week in case something freezes up.
Firstly it's a "break-in" disc, not burn-in, That word is verboten around here. biggrin.gif. Also make sure you know what you're using the break-in disc for? Many people that are new to Plasma think the break-in disc slides are to help reduce image retention and they are in fact not at all for that. If you are going to have your TV calibrated then that should be the only reason to use the break-in slides. If not then just watch TV as usual during the first 200 hours of natural break-in. During this time it would be a good practice to avoid any TV programs with letterbox or a heavy use of network logos as the TV will be fussier about getting rid of any IR during the first 200 hours. Over the course of owning a plasma you will occasionally get IR but it will disappear shortly after watching normal TV.
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post #9 of 25 Old 06-25-2012, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HLdan View Post

Firstly it's a "break-in" disc, not burn-in, That word is verboten around here. biggrin.gif. Also make sure you know what you're using the break-in disc for? Many people that are new to Plasma think the break-in disc slides are to help reduce image retention and they are in fact not at all for that. If you are going to have your TV calibrated then that should be the only reason to use the break-in slides. If not then just watch TV as usual during the first 200 hours of natural break-in. During this time it would be a good practice to avoid any TV programs with letterbox or a heavy use of network logos as the TV will be fussier about getting rid of any IR during the first 200 hours. Over the course of owning a plasma you will occasionally get IR but it will disappear shortly after watching normal TV.

Oh woops, Wow if that wasn't the most backward things... lol

Keep the contrast and brightness low for awhile? I wasn't planning on having it calibrated for awhile, I may at some point but I don't have the extra money right now for it. Can I watch normal Blu-Rays too? Any other tips? I thought everyone was supposed to do the BREAK-IN disk....
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post #10 of 25 Old 06-25-2012, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Aus1095 View Post

Oh woops, Wow if that wasn't the most backward things... lol
Keep the contrast and brightness low for awhile? I wasn't planning on having it calibrated for awhile, I may at some point but I don't have the extra money right now for it. Can I watch normal Blu-Rays too? Any other tips? I thought everyone was supposed to do the BREAK-IN disk....

Since the ST50 doesn't have the THX modes (which offer the best settings during the break-in period and thereafter) then you may want to check out some threads (not sure if the sticky up top offers settings) recommending proper settings during the break-in period. Contrast kept below 60 would be a good practice since higher contrast settings raises the chances of IR. Not sure if brightness matters in regards to which setting is best. Yes the usage of the break-in slides is probably the most misunderstood here. I thought at first it was to reduce my chances of getting IR but after reading from the experts here it is a great waste of time unless you are planning on having your TV calibrated soon after.
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post #11 of 25 Old 06-25-2012, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus1095 View Post

Oh woops, Wow if that wasn't the most backward things... lol
Keep the contrast and brightness low for awhile? I wasn't planning on having it calibrated for awhile, I may at some point but I don't have the extra money right now for it. Can I watch normal Blu-Rays too? Any other tips? I thought everyone was supposed to do the BREAK-IN disk....
D-Nice actually calls them prep slides, and the purpose of them is to prepare the panel the same way his reference panel was to eliminate that variable to get the best results possible when you plug his settings in. If you don't plan on using his settings, then there's no need to run them. Calling them break-in slides might give the wrong idea.
edit: I'm guessing you guys are talking about the break-in DVD in the sticky. IMHO, you don't need to run those either. I would just do what I recommend below.

Basically during the first 100-150 hours or so is when plasma TV's phosphors shift the most, so if you're getting your set professionally calibrated, you don't want to waste your money on doing it out of the box, only for the panel to significantly shift away from accuracy after 100-150 hours. You could call this the break-in period.

Some say to keep the Contrast down to avoid burn-in/image retention, but others say that plasmas are no more or less susceptible to IR/burn in in the first 100-150 hours. My opinion is to just set contrast to a comfortable level, avoid static images for long periods of time, watch fullscreen content, and especially mix up your viewing content for the first 100 hours. You want to age the phosphors somewhat evenly before you get it calibrated. Setting the contrast higher actually ages the phosphors faster, but only do this if you can completely avoid static logos.

After the break in period, you don't have to watch fullscreen content all the time, but I would still mix up your viewing content and avoid static logos for long periods of time. And whatever you do, don't use Vivid mode. This applies to all models/plasmas. The break-in process is pretty much the same for any plasma. The only thing that might be different from model to model is how long you have to wait before you start calibrating, but generally it's between 100-200 hours. 100 hours is long enough to wait before you can calibrate the 2012 Pannys. Of course, waiting longer doesn't hurt.
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post #12 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 02:19 PM
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I was wondering If I could leave it running on the burn in disk while I am gone but I am too afraid to leave it on for over a week in case something freezes up.

Oh no, definitely don't do that. That's way too long and too risky.
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post #13 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 04:17 PM
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GT50 has the THX mode which comes pre-calibrated and 300$ more , why buy ST50 and spend more money on calibration - which would end up as the same price as GT50 ?
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post #14 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 04:23 PM
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GT50 has the THX mode which comes pre-calibrated and 300$ more , why buy ST50 and spend more money on calibration - which would end up as the same price as GT50 ?
It's not 'pre-calibrated', it's a picture preset that meets THX's specific standards. Due to panel variations in the manufacturing process, it's good for a picture preset, but it's far from being accurate. A calibration will improve things significantly. In other words, a calibrated ST50 (or GT50 for that matter) would be better than an uncalibrated GT50 (or VT50 for that matter) in THX mode. THX modes are a little more accurate than the ST50 in Cinema mode.
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post #15 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 04:26 PM
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If you have a bright room the gt50 has the 'bright room' mode which makes it very easy to watch the sety in the daytime, then simply change the mode at night.

Does anyone have actual experience with this, does it work great?
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post #16 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 04:28 PM
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If you have a bright room the gt50 has the 'bright room' mode which makes it very easy to watch the sety in the daytime, then simply change the mode at night.
Does anyone have actual experience with this, does it work great?
Yes they work well in that regard... that's one of the benefits of having them. Again, THX modes aren't 100% accurate, but they're not bad.
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post #17 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 04:35 PM
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THX modes look wonderful but do need a little tweeking, however huge changes cannot be made. For those who want reference then Custom on both the ST & GT will need to be calibrated.

If you don't fully understand what I just said, then you will be happy with THX modes, and can make adjustments to the basic settings (just like mom and dad did way back when wink.gif) to your suit your own tastes.

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post #18 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 04:36 PM
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Yes they work well in that regard... that's one of the benefits of having them. Again, THX modes aren't 100% accurate, but they're not bad.

Hey! If they had a pat on the back smilie or badge I'd give you one for all that you've done today. wink.gif

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post #19 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 04:44 PM
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Not much else you can do when you're sitting at home sick. mad.gif
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post #20 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 05:22 PM
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Oh I'm sorry to hear that, get well soon. I work from home and that's why I'm here so often. The past week has been different though since we are tiling the first floor of our house.

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post #21 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 05:41 PM
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Thanks, appreciate it. smile.gif
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post #22 of 25 Old 06-27-2012, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

THX modes look wonderful but do need a little tweeking, however huge changes cannot be made. For those who want reference then Custom on both the ST & GT will need to be calibrated.
If you don't fully understand what I just said, then you will be happy with THX modes, and can make adjustments to the basic settings (just like mom and dad did way back when wink.gif) to your suit your own tastes.

Thats correct, since only the Custom mode allows for the pro settings including the important gamma setting.
The calibrators have all been using a gamma of typically 2.6, but the cinema and THX presets don't have the pro settings so have a fixed gamma that is lower causing a lighter picture.
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post #23 of 25 Old 06-28-2012, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Not much else you can do when you're sitting at home sick. mad.gif

Hey man, hope you get to feeling better! Thanks for all the advice!

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Originally Posted by dzt41j View Post

If you have a bright room the gt50 has the 'bright room' mode which makes it very easy to watch the sety in the daytime, then simply change the mode at night.
Does anyone have actual experience with this, does it work great?

I take it the ST50 doesn't have that? My room is always pitch black, I have blinds with a curtain that claims it blocks 99% of the light out, I like to sleep till noon sometimes but I can't sleep in a bright room. redface.gif I guess that's good for the plasma though biggrin.gif

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Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

D-Nice actually calls them prep slides, and the purpose of them is to prepare the panel the same way his reference panel was to eliminate that variable to get the best results possible when you plug his settings in. If you don't plan on using his settings, then there's no need to run them. Calling them break-in slides might give the wrong idea.
edit: I'm guessing you guys are talking about the break-in DVD in the sticky. IMHO, you don't need to run those either. I would just do what I recommend below.
Basically during the first 100-150 hours or so is when plasma TV's phosphors shift the most, so if you're getting your set professionally calibrated, you don't want to waste your money on doing it out of the box, only for the panel to significantly shift away from accuracy after 100-150 hours. You could call this the break-in period.
Some say to keep the Contrast down to avoid burn-in/image retention, but others say that plasmas are no more or less susceptible to IR/burn in in the first 100-150 hours. My opinion is to just set contrast to a comfortable level, avoid static images for long periods of time, watch fullscreen content, and especially mix up your viewing content for the first 100 hours. You want to age the phosphors somewhat evenly before you get it calibrated. Setting the contrast higher actually ages the phosphors faster, but only do this if you can completely avoid static logos.
After the break in period, you don't have to watch fullscreen content all the time, but I would still mix up your viewing content and avoid static logos for long periods of time. And whatever you do, don't use Vivid mode. This applies to all models/plasmas. The break-in process is pretty much the same for any plasma. The only thing that might be different from model to model is how long you have to wait before you start calibrating, but generally it's between 100-200 hours. 100 hours is long enough to wait before you can calibrate the 2012 Pannys. Of course, waiting longer doesn't hurt.

I would like to have it calibrated at some point but I'm not sure how much it usually cost...

When you say full screen content, do I set the plasma to a full screen setting somewhere? Most of my blu-rays leave the black strips across the top and bottom of our tv.... I thought when you set it to full screen it cuts some of the movie off? That would be a issue as I hate that... I could live with it for the first 150 hours or so though.

When you say mix up the viewing content, do you mean like dark and light movies, some news, and random tv shows stuff like that?

After about 200 hours, can I game on it for about a hour or two without issues? I don't usually game for several several hours (3-4+) anyways.

Ok skip the Vivid mode gotcha ya!

What mode should I run it in for the first 150-200 hours? Or should I run it on custom with everything turned down a little?

I think I'll shoot to have it calibrated around 200 hours, is there someone you all have had great luck with?

Does the ST have that screen wipe thing? I read about it in another thread that after movies, you just run it and then the TV will shut off. What do you guys think of that feature?
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post #24 of 25 Old 06-28-2012, 02:37 PM
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If you are in a perfectly dark room then the advantage the bright room modes give you on the GT isn't worth it. A matter of fact you don't need the filtering the ST (and GT) give you, you might want to look at the UT line which is a lot cheaper but doesn't offer the filters. Some people think the picture on the UT without filters is even better than the ST.
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post #25 of 25 Old 06-28-2012, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus1095 View Post

Hey man, hope you get to feeling better! Thanks for all the advice!
I take it the ST50 doesn't have that? My room is always pitch black, I have blinds with a curtain that claims it blocks 99% of the light out, I like to sleep till noon sometimes but I can't sleep in a bright room. redface.gif I guess that's good for the plasma though biggrin.gif
I would like to have it calibrated at some point but I'm not sure how much it usually cost...
When you say full screen content, do I set the plasma to a full screen setting somewhere? Most of my blu-rays leave the black strips across the top and bottom of our tv.... I thought when you set it to full screen it cuts some of the movie off? That would be a issue as I hate that... I could live with it for the first 150 hours or so though.
When you say mix up the viewing content, do you mean like dark and light movies, some news, and random tv shows stuff like that?
After about 200 hours, can I game on it for about a hour or two without issues? I don't usually game for several several hours (3-4+) anyways.
Ok skip the Vivid mode gotcha ya!
What mode should I run it in for the first 150-200 hours? Or should I run it on custom with everything turned down a little?
I think I'll shoot to have it calibrated around 200 hours, is there someone you all have had great luck with?
Does the ST have that screen wipe thing? I read about it in another thread that after movies, you just run it and then the TV will shut off. What do you guys think of that feature?
Just try to avoid black bars and watch content that fills the screen in the first 100 hours... after that, don't worry about it.
By mixing your viewing content, I mean don't game or watch static logos for several hours straight, night after night. If you do, try to watch something else for a while to even it out.
Run it in whatever mode you find looks the best. Honestly, other than watching everything fullscreen and being a little more careful, I don't treat my set much differently when I'm breaking it in.

This is just my opinion. There is some benefit in running the slides for the first 100 hours, but I just don't think that it's worth it.
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