Official Panasonic TC-PxxST60 Series thread - Page 223 - AVS Forum
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post #6661 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 12:59 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I'll try contacting Cleveland plasma.
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post #6662 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bui3 View Post

I've been enjoying my 60ST60 for around 200 hours now and I've been using the settings posted here in one form or another. The question...I have been thinking of buying Calman 5 (basic). For those of you with experience with software and sensor....Is this worth the investment of time and money?
Yes, but be prepared to go down a very deep rabbit hole.

consider the source
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post #6663 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by fredou View Post

I will give a third try on this plasma TV. My 2nd 55ST60 also have dead pixel.



I wonder if running the prep slides at 100 contrast (D-nice method) does make it worst? The 2 ones I had did not seems to have any before running the slides. I hope the third that will be coming on wednesday one will be the good one. A really want this plasma TV!

Yes, don't use the slides for your third ones. If those dead pixels appears after slides break in, then the max contrast and the static slides caused overburned pixels in your case.
You will be safe using Pixel Jogger instead, I had warn the users about the slides.
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post #6664 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by iBrad View Post

Yes, don't use the slides for your third ones. If those dead pixels appears after slides break in, then the max contrast and the static slides caused overburned pixels in your case.
You will be safe using Pixel Jogger instead, I had warn the users about the slides.

Totally Inaccurate and not based on any fact
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post #6665 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by adrian s View Post

Yes, but be prepared to go down a very deep rabbit hole.
Thanks Adrian. In your opinions will this software provide better results than let's say one of the calibration discs previously recommended on this thread?
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post #6666 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by iBrad View Post

Yes, don't use the slides for your third ones. If those dead pixels appears after slides break in, then the max contrast and the static slides caused overburned pixels in your case.
You will be safe using Pixel Jogger instead, I had warn the users about the slides.

Totally Inaccurate and not based on any fact
... and lacking any diagnostic merit. The slides are nothing but monochrome shades of color and can not effect the operation of pixels or sub pixels regardless of the settings being used. .
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post #6667 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bui3 View Post

Thanks Adrian. In your opinions will this software provide better results than let's say one of the calibration discs previously recommended on this thread?

A cal with a meter and software will produce much better results than using a disc alone but there is a learning curve

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post #6668 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post

A cal with a meter and software will produce much better results than using a disc alone but there is a learning curve
Yeah, I hear what you saying, even using the common cal discs requires lots of patience. Thanks.
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post #6669 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 06:11 PM
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Dumb question here. Our 9 y.o. Panny (which was in a small condo) had no speakers. It had a built in amp and we simply hooked up speakers to the connections on each side of the panel.

I have read that there is no way to disable the built in speakers on this unit. Is that true? We have no need for any sophisticated sound system. I don't like the idea of the sound "blasting" backwards where it might disturb the neighbor on the other side of the common wall.

What I envision as a simple, straight-forward solution would be to put a sound bar beneath the panel. Our set up with the now deceased unit was having bookshelf speakers on shelves on each side of the panel. I know there is a digital audio out - but that would involve feeding it into an amp to power a speaker, wouldn't it?

Anyone have a simple solution for setting up speakers?

Thanks.
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post #6670 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 06:46 PM
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That is a commercial unit you have. They are still made today but not a wise choice for a few reasons. No stand included, based off of 2 year old Panasonic screens, and no speakers.

--To use this model, or any other "TV" you will need a receiver to power your speakers like a Denon >>> Click Here
--Mute the speakers or lower them to "0".
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post #6671 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 07:30 PM
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Replacing the battery is extremely difficult and requires a crude tool such as a knife or screw driver. Am I missing something or is this a huge flaw with the 3D glasses? Why would panasonic design such dumb glasses?
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post #6672 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 07:34 PM
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I'm looking at the 55, I have a HX909 now and cant stand the blooming...hopefully the ST60 will be a worthy replacement with better PQ01.jpg02.jpg03.jpg04.jpg05.jpg06.jpg07.jpg
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post #6673 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

That is a commercial unit you have. They are still made today but not a wise choice for a few reasons. No stand included, based off of 2 year old Panasonic screens, and no speakers.

--To use this model, or any other "TV" you will need a receiver to power your speakers like a Denon >>> Click Here
--Mute the speakers or lower them to "0".

Thanks. I was spoiled by that "commercial" unit. I never used a stand - always hung it on a wall. This "consumer" model has the distracting reflective bezel - altho someone here said you do get to ignore it after a while. With the old unit I also liked the idea of simply wiring in a couple of external speakers. I'm not about to put in a huge sound system in the small condo unit in Okld.
I guess there is no compromise with this new unit. I was hoping there was some cure other than getting a sound system that wouldn't work in this location.

BTW - you said Panny still makes commercial units? but uses 2 y.o. technology in them?

We have a 50" Panny, about 5 years old in Miami. That does have a somewhat ugly silver bezel - but it is dull silver so it doesn't reflect every bit of ambient light. Its builtin speakers are forward facing.
We just bought a low end Vizio to put in an extra bdrm - and it has a mostly dull black bezel with a strip of the bezel being in shiny black. No bright silver border.
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post #6674 of 12752 Old 06-30-2013, 09:22 PM
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The 65" uses 2 year old screens as it is still a TH-65PF30U being sold. The smaller sizes end in 50U are based on last years panels. I think you need to look at the TC-P55VT60, TC-P60VT60, or TC-P65VT60 as this unit has no bezel at all, edge to edge glass. Better looking than the Commercial unit and any other plasma made today by anyone. You can use a receiver for 2 channel just like your old system, but at that point I think you should go with a sound bar wink.gif Either way these receivers or sound bars start at $299. You have many options..........
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post #6675 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

The 65" uses 2 year old screens as it is still a TH-65PF30U being sold. The smaller sizes end in 50U are based on last years panels. I think you need to look at the TC-P55VT60, TC-P60VT60, or TC-P65VT60 as this unit has no bezel at all, edge to edge glass. Better looking than the Commercial unit and any other plasma made today by anyone. You can use a receiver for 2 channel just like your old system, but at that point I think you should go with a sound bar wink.gif Either way these receivers or sound bars start at $299. You have many options..........
While the VT60 has edge to edge glass, isn't there actually a large bezel under the glass? While it won't be any more reflective then the rest of the screen because of the glass there is a lot more black around the actually picture.
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post #6676 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jonsinbox View Post

Replacing the battery is extremely difficult and requires a crude tool such as a knife or screw driver. Am I missing something or is this a huge flaw with the 3D glasses? Why would panasonic design such dumb glasses?

It sounds like a big deal, but all you have to do is push down the tab on the backside of the battery cover and it will slide off. You don't have to pry at the tab.

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post #6677 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by cadett View Post

It can soften the picture some, but when using any video that is compressed(DirecTV, Netflix, & compressed video files), I tend to set it to low with no visual loss in sharpness.

Thanks. I have found the same to be true.
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post #6678 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 08:36 AM
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Just ordered my TV from Appliances Direct. Should be delivered by Friday. I plan to calibrate after 100 or so hours and was wondering if it's possible to track the number of hours you've watched through the TV, or would I have to do that manually?
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post #6679 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ricardoht View Post

Any idea of a site where they have this set in stock? I need the store to let me ship to an address different from my billing address.

Just bought one from Paul's....
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post #6680 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 08:39 AM
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Any idea of a site where they have this set in stock? I need the store to let me ship to an address different from my billing address.

Just bought one from Paul's....
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Just bought one from Paul's....

I've looked there and what seems like everywhere else and it's listed as "out of stock" or "backordered" at all the places that I have looked.

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post #6682 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 01:51 PM
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Charles Cooper calibrated my p60st60 on Saturday.

He spent eight hours getting everything just right. He calibrated the night mode first, which took a majority of the time, and then calibrated a day mode and looked at some things in 3d.

I was really impressed with the difference.

Here's the report.

cooper.pdf 1095k .pdf file
Attached Files
File Type: pdf cooper.pdf (1.07 MB, 88 views)
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post #6683 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 02:25 PM
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I've looked there and what seems like everywhere else and it's listed as "out of stock" or "backordered" at all the places that I have looked.
50", 55", 60" are just about impossible to get right now......
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post #6684 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 02:30 PM
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I have a question about CALIBRATION:
Why wouldn't the settings that are optimal for Ryansebiz also work for anyone else with the same panel?
I probably shouldn't say this, but I got my first plasma in 2001. It had to be mail ordered since local B&M stores didn't stock them. Cost $5K for a 42" that wasn't true HD. Then bought a 50" in about 2004 and another in 2007 or 08. NEVER had any of them calibrated.
It would seem to me that the source materials varies so widely - that a calibration for yesterday's hockey game might be "way off" for watching Game of Thrones. And those settings might be wrong for an outdoor event like baseball.

IF I am convinced that it would be worthwhile - how does one locate a professional "calibrator"? Maybe the local store where I bought it?
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post #6685 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snidely View Post

I have a question about CALIBRATION:
Why wouldn't the settings that are optimal for Ryansebiz also work for anyone else with the same panel?
I probably shouldn't say this, but I got my first plasma in 2001. It had to be mail ordered since local B&M stores didn't stock them. Cost $5K for a 42" that wasn't true HD. Then bought a 50" in about 2004 and another in 2007 or 08. NEVER had any of them calibrated.
It would seem to me that the source materials varies so widely - that a calibration for yesterday's hockey game might be "way off" for watching Game of Thrones. And those settings might be wrong for an outdoor event like baseball.

IF I am convinced that it would be worthwhile - how does one locate a professional "calibrator"? Maybe the local store where I bought it?

They vary because each panel varies to some degree, you are right source material varies but if you set is calibrated to reference any abnormality seen is the source not the display. There is a sticky in the calibration sub forum that is an excellent place to start looking for a calibrator.

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post #6686 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 04:10 PM
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Planning on picking up a 55ST60 this week. Looking at the manual online it makes it seem like there are differences in the HDMI input ports. HDMI1 shows "AV IN", HDMI2 shows (ARC), and HDMI3 is not labeled. My sources will be a Time Warner Cable box, a Blue Ray player, and/or a camera or laptop. Does it make any difference which port I connect any of these sources to?
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post #6687 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by HDT2 View Post

Planning on picking up a 55ST60 this week. Looking at the manual online it makes it seem like there are differences in the HDMI input ports. HDMI1 shows "AV IN", HDMI2 shows (ARC), and HDMI3 is not labeled. My sources will be a Time Warner Cable box, a Blue Ray player, and/or a camera or laptop. Does it make any difference which port I connect any of these sources to?

If you don't have an HDMI receiver, than you are fine connecting your components to any HDMI input. If you do have one, than connect all your components to receiver , than HDMI to HDMI2 arc on tv and if you have an older receiver with no HDMI than connect everything to tv than connect an optical cable to receiver to get sound.

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post #6688 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TdotLee View Post

I've looked there and what seems like everywhere else and it's listed as "out of stock" or "backordered" at all the places that I have looked.

Sears still lists this as a current product for $1449. However, it lists it as unavailable in the Bay Area. Same for the 55". They will ship the 65" - and I assume that means they will ship that anywhere in the U.S. They charge about $150 for shipping.
Sears does have the 60" available in stores in Fresno and L.A.

Edit: Meant to add that Sears says the 55" and 60" unavailable for shipping - just the 65"
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post #6689 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 05:04 PM
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I was watching The Avengers this weekend and noticed a brief bit of halos/line bleed and rainbow effect. This was played through my PS3 at 24p.

Halos/line bleed: 37:20

  • White lines from railing extending across Captain America's face
  • While the railing is white, it appears dark in his face
  • Almost looks like his face is semi-transparent and I can see through his face to the railing behind him (especially the second and third lines)



Rainbow effect: 1:08:47

  • Running 96hz mode
  • The camera pans around Captain America & Nick Fury
  • As it pans their bodies turn from normal to red and then green
  • In 60hz the rainbow effect goes away, but there seems to be a judder to the motion (just not red/green)
  • I couldn't get a pic of this because it only occurred during movement (pausing it removed the rainbow effect)


Any ideas on how to prevent this from happening? Have you experience this before?

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post #6690 of 12752 Old 07-01-2013, 05:17 PM
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It cant be prevented. Line bleed is just a quirk of plasmas. Same goes with rainbow effect. Not everyone can see it, you are one of the lucky few (along with me).
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