Official Panasonic TC-PxxST60 Series thread - Page 355 - AVS Forum
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post #10621 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by bbtfastback View Post

Guys - really curious as to how those of you that have high quality MKV files display them on your plasma?

I have my macbook and have a lot of MKV files that I used to watch on my laptop. They are typically 4-10gb each. I tried transfering it to a hard drive, and connecting the portable hard drive to the plasma this morning, but the hard drive wasn't recognized.

I also have my PS3 if that helps, which has a LAN cable attached to it.

Really want to test an MKV file out - let me know what you guys do!

MKV is pretty much all I watch. I use a Windows-based HTPC that has Media Browser3 on it. Works great, and MB3 has various clients (windows, android, ios, roku). The way it works is that there is a Media Broswer server that runs on a Windows box. Doesn't need to be near the TV. You put the movies on there, or in NAS storage it knows about, and then it serves any devices you want to watch the content on, either inside your home network or anwhere else where you have internet access (if you enable it to serve external clients).

The way I've implemented it, I've got an HTPC that hosts the server and the Media Browser Classic client, both in the same computer. Works great. The HTPC is connected to the TV via standard HDMI. Looks great. And as a side benefit I can stream to my android tablets (or phone) while I'm at home (I haven't set up forwarding on my router to serve external to my LAN). When I get a new TV in another room, I can just hook a Roku box up to it and use the Media Browser Roku client. Sweet.

Check it out:

http://www.mediabrowser3.com/

Marc
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post #10622 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc_G View Post

MKV is pretty much all I watch. I use a Windows-based HTPC that has Media Browser3 on it. Works great, and MB3 has various clients (windows, android, ios, roku). The way it works is that there is a Media Broswer server that runs on a Windows box. Doesn't need to be near the TV. You put the movies on there, or in NAS storage it knows about, and then it serves any devices you want to watch the content on, either inside your home network or anwhere else where you have internet access (if you enable it to serve external clients).

The way I've implemented it, I've got an HTPC that hosts the server and the Media Browser Classic client, both in the same computer. Works great. The HTPC is connected to the TV via standard HDMI. Looks great. And as a side benefit I can stream to my android tablets (or phone) while I'm at home (I haven't set up forwarding on my router to serve external to my LAN). When I get a new TV in another room, I can just hook a Roku box up to it and use the Media Browser Roku client. Sweet.

Check it out:

http://www.mediabrowser3.com/

Marc

This setup sounds intriguing.

I have a PC in the basement, with my TV in the family room on the main floor. I don't download content onto the PC (I download onto my macbook), but can, if it means that content will be easily accessible.

1) How do I know if my PC is an HTPC? (EDIT: just googled and realized an HTPC is a separate stand alone hardware) - any recommendations on which HTPC to purchase?
2) You mention that you have connected your HTPC to the TV via HDMI - i would assume your HTPC isrelatively close to your TV?
3) All the 'streaming that happens from the source (macbook, pc) to HTPC would occur over the internet and therefore utilize more internet cap space, or is this not related?

(head slowly spinning!)

Thanks!!
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post #10623 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by bbtfastback View Post

Last question that requires a separate post. My sound bar sits on top of the mantle and blocks the TV's IR for the remote. Is there an extension for the TV I can purchase to extend the IR reciever to switch the TV off via the remote?

I will likely be purchasing a new soundbar, but wanted to see my options.

Thanks

Get an IR repeater. I use one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IR-Remote-Extender-4-Emitter-1Receiver-Infrared-Repeater-Hidden-Kit-EU-Plug-EP98-/121185962282?pt=US_Remote_Controls&hash=item1c373f092a

You can get them for less but I don't know how well they work. This one works fine for most stuff, the only thing I've found it doesn't work with is a DirecTV HD-DVR.
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post #10624 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbtfastback View Post

This setup sounds intriguing.

I have a PC in the basement, with my TV in the family room on the main floor. I don't download content onto the PC (I download onto my macbook), but can, if it means that content will be easily accessible.

1) How do I know if my PC is an HTPC? (EDIT: just googled and realized an HTPC is a separate stand alone hardware) - any recommendations on which HTPC to purchase?
2) You mention that you have connected your HTPC to the TV via HDMI - i would assume your HTPC isrelatively close to your TV?
3) All the 'streaming that happens from the source (macbook, pc) to HTPC would occur over the internet and therefore utilize more internet cap space, or is this not related?

(head slowly spinning!)

Thanks!!

I'll try to reply in more detail later (got work stuff to do!), but in short:
-Right, HTPC is just a term for any PC (usually, but not always, Windows) that is used to host content and display it on the home theater. Hence, Home Theater PC, or HTPC. This used to be as much a culture as a hobby, but these days it's VERY EASY to set up a computer and use it as an HTPC. The thing is, with Media Browser 3, you actually don't need to do this any more, as the Roku client can work just fine.

In my case, in 2009 I built an HTPC (with some hardware upgrades since then), specifically so that I could connect it to my TV and use Windows Media Center (for TV recording/playback, like a DVR) and Media Browser (very old version back then, but worked fine) to play movies I ripped from DVD and bluray. So, it was in an attractive (more or less) box, located right near the TV. It's just a dual core AMD 2.7GHz system, with currently an ATI 5670 graphics card (ancient, by today's standards). And it's got about 2.5 GB of hard drive space, which is enough for the amount of stuff I keep handy for watching, including ripped movies and recorded TV.

Since I've put the server and the Media Browser Classic client on the same computer, for me it's all in one box. But many people run the server piece on some ugly old box in a closet or something... doesn't need to be pretty. And then they put either a thin HTPC client next to the TV or just use a Roku box. The server streams over the LAN to the HTPC/Roku (not using any internet bandwidth at all, just LAN) and as long as you've got decent network connectivity within your home, you get snappy, beautiful video on your TVs. Note the use of plural. The server can serve multiple streams at once, no problem, to different devices/TVs.

The icing on the cake is if you set it up to forward outside your LAN, so you can amaze your friends when you whip out a tablet when you are at your buddy's house and start playing Pacific Rim on your tablet.

As for "what HTPC to buy" there isn't any standard. Most of us build our own, but off the shelf computers will usually do fine. These days it's more about the software than the hardware. You've gotta control what kind of bloatware is on it so that you don't experience difficulties.

Look into the Media Browser page and also give recent pages in this thread a look:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1302559/assassins-simple-beginner-htpc-buying-guide

Marc
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post #10625 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc_G View Post

I'll try to reply in more detail later (got work stuff to do!), but in short:
-Right, HTPC is just a term for any PC (usually, but not always, Windows) that is used to host content and display it on the home theater. Hence, Home Theater PC, or HTPC. This used to be as much a culture as a hobby, but these days it's VERY EASY to set up a computer and use it as an HTPC. The thing is, with Media Browser 3, you actually don't need to do this any more, as the Roku client can work just fine.

In my case, in 2009 I built an HTPC (with some hardware upgrades since then), specifically so that I could connect it to my TV and use Windows Media Center (for TV recording/playback, like a DVR) and Media Browser (very old version back then, but worked fine) to play movies I ripped from DVD and bluray. So, it was in an attractive (more or less) box, located right near the TV. It's just a dual core AMD 2.7GHz system, with currently an ATI 5670 graphics card (ancient, by today's standards). And it's got about 2.5 GB of hard drive space, which is enough for the amount of stuff I keep handy for watching, including ripped movies and recorded TV.

Since I've put the server and the Media Browser Classic client on the same computer, for me it's all in one box. But many people run the server piece on some ugly old box in a closet or something... doesn't need to be pretty. And then they put either a thin HTPC client next to the TV or just use a Roku box. The server streams over the LAN to the HTPC/Roku (not using any internet bandwidth at all, just LAN) and as long as you've got decent network connectivity within your home, you get snappy, beautiful video on your TVs. Note the use of plural. The server can serve multiple streams at once, no problem, to different devices/TVs.

The icing on the cake is if you set it up to forward outside your LAN, so you can amaze your friends when you whip out a tablet when you are at your buddy's house and start playing Pacific Rim on your tablet.

As for "what HTPC to buy" there isn't any standard. Most of us build our own, but off the shelf computers will usually do fine. These days it's more about the software than the hardware. You've gotta control what kind of bloatware is on it so that you don't experience difficulties.

Look into the Media Browser page and also give recent pages in this thread a look:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1302559/assassins-simple-beginner-htpc-buying-guide

Marc

Thanks again Marc.

I think I need to find out if I can use my current PC as an HTPC. If I can, then it sounds like all I need to do is get a Roku to put near the TV and Bob's your uncle.

(sigh) just when i thought my work was done after getting the tv installed - now need a new speakerbar and the more (it seems) complicated task of getting the content from my computers onto the tv!!

please do post more detail if you can - i've started googling a lot about htpc's, and it's all greek to me. Will check out your link - and thanks again!
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post #10626 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 09:11 AM
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I called Panasonic today for a service call on my 3 week old 60ST60 due to the buzzing.  Is driving me nuts. Hopefully they will be able to resolve it.


Update... Had my service call.  Tech agreed that it was very loud buzzing. He tightened every screw on all the boards and checked all cable connections to make sure they were tight. Buzzing seemed. to be coming from the S board, which if you are looking at the tv from the rear of the set, would be the board in the upper right corner of the set. He opened a new bag of screws and was going to replace all the screws on the board with screws that had both a lock washer and a regular washer, but then noticed upon removing a screw that the screw hje removed from the board had both the lock washer and regular washer already.  He said it was the first set he has seen with the new screws.

 

So after all the tightening, he powered up the tv. I didn't have any cable back attached then, but I did still have the SD card with Dnice's slides in the tv, so I accessed the white slide figuring this would be the worst case scenario, all white screen, for buzzing. We were still getting a buzz, but not as bad as before. 

 

He ordered both the S and C boards and said it would be about a week for him to get them and he would then come and install them. (Still not at that point yet).

 

After he left, I reconnected my OTA coax, and WOW, what a difference!  There really is not much discernible buzzing.  Note that the buzzing had been so bad that it was causing headaches. Now I am quite happy with the set and think I am good.

 

Question for people with non-buzzers...Do you get a low level buzz with a all white screen, as in with the white slide?

 

I find it hard to believe that they don't  bench test these sets for buzzing before they get packaged for shipment. It seems the screws just weren't as tight as they should be. They must be spending a lot of money on perhaps un needed services calls had qc been better.

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post #10627 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by oakster623 View Post

Question for people with non-buzzers...Do you get a low level buzz with a all white screen, as in with the white slide?

I find it hard to believe that they don't  bench test these sets for buzzing before they get packaged for shipment. It seems the screws just weren't as tight as they should be. They must be spending a lot of money on perhaps un needed services calls had qc been better.

I get a very faint buzz on bright screens, but if there is any content playing, even at low volumes, there is no buzz whatsoever. My experience is normal for plasmas. If your buzz was giving you a headache, your experience was definitely NOT normal. Sounds like you fixed the problem!
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post #10628 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bbtfastback View Post

Last question that requires a separate post. My sound bar sits on top of the mantle and blocks the TV's IR for the remote. Is there an extension for the TV I can purchase to extend the IR reciever to switch the TV off via the remote?
I will likely be purchasing a new soundbar, but wanted to see my options.
Thanks
There are solutions, however the solution's I know of are expensive..........

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post #10629 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 09:28 AM
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Try formatting the drive with ExFat and be sure to use external power (as opposed to USB power).
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post #10630 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 09:43 AM
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Try formatting the drive with ExFat and be sure to use external power (as opposed to USB power).

Will try - my current hard drive doesn't have external power (i don't think)

The other alternative could be to get a 16 or 32g usb stick, no?
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post #10631 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 09:51 AM
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Will try - my current hard drive doesn't have external power (i don't think)

The other alternative could be to get a 16 or 32g usb stick, no?
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Originally Posted by bbtfastback View Post

i had no idea that a powered HD was needed - man, that's disappointing. I thought it would be plug and play just like other USB keys. Maybe that's the secret? Get a 16GB USB key?? wink.gif

I'm using a 64g USB stick formatted ExFat - works just fine.
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post #10632 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 10:22 AM
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My 60ST60 was Breaking Bad.......Netflix TV mini series Breaking Bad that is :)

When purchased I did the brake in thing for 300 hr - No sidebars  ,station logos etc with Directv 720p video source picture looked excellent panel time at 700 hr.

A  week ago I signed up for Netflix free trial & started viewing Braking Bad in Super HD aka 1080p completing seasons 1 - 5 in 6 days with some hardcore viewing.

Last night I fired up DTV HR24 720p  finding  pixels have come to life ,Colors are more vivid , Shadow detail etc it looks freaking amazing thanks to many hours of Netflix 1080p viewing.

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Display : Panasonic 60ST60

Blu-Ray : Sony BDP S5100

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Speakers : Polk RM6750 5.1

Center Speaker : Polk TL2

 

 
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post #10633 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 02:14 PM
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Is there an agreed upon best HDMI color mode setting for the Panasonic BDT110 player with the ST60?
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post #10634 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 07:54 PM
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I've had my 60ST60 for a week and a half now, and it's starting to really grow on me.  I suspect that I was expecting way too much after reading all the glowing reviews, but once I got my expectations in line with reality I've decided I'm really happy with the picture.  I've been somewhat careful with avoiding letterboxing, logos, etc. during break in.  But I've also decided I'm not going to be militant about it, or it stops being fun and I'm not going to enjoy the TV.  I did watch normal programming during the evening, and then ran D-nice's slides at night and during the day when I was at work.  I'm just using the default Cinema setting, but did adjust brightness levels using HD 709. 

 

One thing I've noticed, is that if I watch Netflix on my bluray, I can use the zoom button to get rid of the letterboxing.  But if I watch it using the app on the TV, the screen format button on my remote seems to be dead.  I can't zoom in at all.  Am I missing something, or is this functionality disabled with the internal app?  It seems to be an odd thing for Panasonic not to allow, given the concern with IR.  I'd like to move my smart BR to a different room and replace it with a dumb one and use the TV's Netflix, but not sure if that's a great idea now. 

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post #10635 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by G-Money1572 View Post

I've had my 60ST60 for a week and a half now, and it's starting to really grow on me.  I suspect that I was expecting way too much after reading all the glowing reviews, but once I got my expectations in line with reality I've decided I'm really happy with the picture.  I've been somewhat careful with avoiding letterboxing, logos, etc. during break in.  But I've also decided I'm not going to be militant about it, or it stops being fun and I'm not going to enjoy the TV.  I did watch normal programming during the evening, and then ran D-nice's slides at night and during the day when I was at work.  I'm just using the default Cinema setting, but did adjust brightness levels using HD 709. 

One thing I've noticed, is that if I watch Netflix on my bluray, I can use the zoom button to get rid of the letterboxing.  But if I watch it using the app on the TV, the screen format button on my remote seems to be dead.  I can't zoom in at all.  Am I missing something, or is this functionality disabled with the internal app?  It seems to be an odd thing for Panasonic not to allow, given the concern with IR.  I'd like to move my smart BR to a different room and replace it with a dumb one and use the TV's Netflix, but not sure if that's a great idea now. 

You don't need to zoom as long as you vary your content. You are being way too paranoid.

TV - Panasonic 55GT50 Main Speakers - Klipsch Gallery G28's Center Channel- Klipsch RC-52Sub - Klipsch Sub 12Surrounds - Klipsch RS-52 II Bluray/Game - HTPC/PS3, Receiver - Onkyo RC-360 HTPC- Intel Core i3, HDMI,Windows 7,XBMC,Bluray,3 TB,wireless WMC keyboardVideo processor - Darbee
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post #10636 of 12939 Old 12-23-2013, 09:46 PM
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Thanks again Marc.

I think I need to find out if I can use my current PC as an HTPC. If I can, then it sounds like all I need to do is get a Roku to put near the TV and Bob's your uncle.

(sigh) just when i thought my work was done after getting the tv installed - now need a new speakerbar and the more (it seems) complicated task of getting the content from my computers onto the tv!!

please do post more detail if you can - i've started googling a lot about htpc's, and it's all greek to me. Will check out your link - and thanks again!

Marc's setup is ideal

I am sure your current PC could be used as a HTPC, just put in a cheap dedicated HTPC video card. Something like a 5450 only costs 30 bucks and has hdmi out port.
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post #10637 of 12939 Old 12-24-2013, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by G-Money1572 View Post

I've had my 60ST60 for a week and a half now, and it's starting to really grow on me.  I suspect that I was expecting way too much after reading all the glowing reviews, but once I got my expectations in line with reality I've decided I'm really happy with the picture.  I've been somewhat careful with avoiding letterboxing, logos, etc. during break in.  But I've also decided I'm not going to be militant about it, or it stops being fun and I'm not going to enjoy the TV.  I did watch normal programming during the evening, and then ran D-nice's slides at night and during the day when I was at work.  I'm just using the default Cinema setting, but did adjust brightness levels using HD 709. 

One thing I've noticed, is that if I watch Netflix on my bluray, I can use the zoom button to get rid of the letterboxing.  But if I watch it using the app on the TV, the screen format button on my remote seems to be dead.  I can't zoom in at all.  Am I missing something, or is this functionality disabled with the internal app?  It seems to be an odd thing for Panasonic not to allow, given the concern with IR.  I'd like to move my smart BR to a different room and replace it with a dumb one and use the TV's Netflix, but not sure if that's a great idea now. 



Hi, I'm glad your liking your ST60, it's a great panel. As far as Netflix goes I don't believe you can zoom in within the app at least I can't, same for Vudu, but they're both full screen with no bars. Wait until you calibrate it or use one of the suggested settings and you'll see a huge difference over the preset settings, IMO they are way off and just there to have options. I used the S&V settings and although not perfect with all content they are a big jump up in PQ.
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post #10638 of 12939 Old 12-24-2013, 04:15 AM
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You don't need to zoom as long as you vary your content. You are being way too paranoid.

 

I will agree that I'm probably still being too paranoid.  But sometimes, I actually like to watch movies in non-letterbox mode.  I like a closer in, more detailed view that uses all my TV screen.  I know those are fightin' words to a movie purist, but sometimes that's the way I like to watch them. 

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post #10639 of 12939 Old 12-24-2013, 04:31 AM
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Hi, I'm glad your liking your ST60, it's a great panel. As far as Netflix goes I don't believe you can zoom in within the app at least I can't, same for Vudu, but they're both full screen with no bars. Wait until you calibrate it or use one of the suggested settings and you'll see a huge difference over the preset settings, IMO they are way off and just there to have options. I used the S&V settings and although not perfect with all content they are a big jump up in PQ.

 

I'll give the S&V settings a try.  I tried CNET's (thought it was too green) and D-Nice's (lots of red tones and really dark unless I took it to Warm1).  My untrained eye couldn't tell a whole lot of difference between them and stock Cinema mode,  so I settled on Cinema for a couple days. Most reviews seemed to say that was the most accurate out of the box setting.   There isn't a calibration in my near future - I had to fight to sell the wife on plasma to begin with.  $500 more for a calibration would pretty much sink my ship....

 

It is interesting listening to the responses when I tell people I got a plasma.  Most people get this "oooh" look, and start acting like I just bought a piece of junk.  I've been told that plasma is a dead technology (I'll give them points because they are halfway right), LCD's do a much better job of dealing with motion in sports and movies, they are thicker than LED TV's, etc...  I think it's an interesting how the marketing machine has so effectively sold people against plasma and has them convinced LCD is THE technology.  I think both have their pros and cons, but it's not the one sided battle that everyone thinks it is.  For disclosure, I was one of those people before I started reading forums.    

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post #10640 of 12939 Old 12-24-2013, 04:36 AM
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Is the remote sensor on the 55ST60 on the bottom of the TV, or on the front of the tv? I am buying a soundbar that will be quite tight against the bottom, and am worried about the sensor being blocked.

Basically, if I leave the entire front of the tv exposed, will I be okay? Or do I have to leave the "underneath" of the TV exposed too?

THANKS!
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post #10641 of 12939 Old 12-24-2013, 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bbtfastback View Post

Is the remote sensor on the 55ST60 on the bottom of the TV, or on the front of the tv? I am buying a soundbar that will be quite tight against the bottom, and am worried about the sensor being blocked.

Basically, if I leave the entire front of the tv exposed, will I be okay? Or do I have to leave the "underneath" of the TV exposed too?

THANKS!

The sensor is on the bottom front of the TV.

Post #10625 has the solution.
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post #10642 of 12939 Old 12-24-2013, 05:24 AM
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I'll give the S&V settings a try.  I tried CNET's (thought it was too green) and D-Nice's (lots of red tones and really dark unless I took it to Warm1).  My untrained eye couldn't tell a whole lot of difference between them and stock Cinema mode,  so I settled on Cinema for a couple days. Most reviews seemed to say that was the most accurate out of the box setting.   There isn't a calibration in my near future - I had to fight to sell the wife on plasma to begin with.  $500 more for a calibration would pretty much sink my ship....

It is interesting listening to the responses when I tell people I got a plasma.  Most people get this "oooh" look, and start acting like I just bought a piece of junk.  I've been told that plasma is a dead technology (I'll give them points because they are halfway right), LCD's do a much better job of dealing with motion in sports and movies, they are thicker than LED TV's, etc...  I think it's an interesting how the marketing machine has so effectively sold people against plasma and has them convinced LCD is THE technology.  I think both have their pros and cons, but it's not the one sided battle that everyone thinks it is.  For disclosure, I was one of those people before I started reading forums.    



Understood. I think the S&V settings will suit your taste better. Although it's not a pro calibration I bought one of the discs for $30 and I'm going to give that a try a well because I'd never pay that kind of money for a calibration either.
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post #10643 of 12939 Old 12-24-2013, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by comfynumb View Post

Understood. I think the S&V settings will suit your taste better. Although it's not a pro calibration I bought one of the discs for $30 and I'm going to give that a try a well because I'd never pay that kind of money for a calibration either.

You could diy calibration if you made a small investment buying an accurate meter and calibration software. Copying settings is a long shot and more often then not it can make your set worse then factory settings. Panel variations will change what the settings will end up at. Dnice's settings on my ST60 make the picture way too red in the whites and darks/blacks. They don't work for my set. I have a meter and software and calibrate the tv myself.
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post #10644 of 12939 Old 12-24-2013, 07:44 AM
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You could diy calibration if you made a small investment buying an accurate meter and calibration software. Copying settings is a long shot and more often then not it can make your set worse then factory settings. Panel variations will change what the settings will end up at. Dnice's settings on my ST60 make the picture way too red in the whites and darks/blacks. They don't work for my set. I have a meter and software and calibrate the tv myself.



To be honest I'm not that critical as far as having the perfect picture goes. It has to look and I will run the Spears & Munsil disc, but I'm pretty happy with S&V settings. I'm a little more serious about my sound quality.
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post #10645 of 12939 Old 12-24-2013, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by comfynumb View Post

To be honest I'm not that critical as far as having the perfect picture goes. It has to look and I will run the Spears & Munsil disc, but I'm pretty happy with S&V settings. I'm a little more serious about my sound quality.
If you are satisfied and not wanting to persue protfessional calibration or DIY calibration then enjoy your tv. I would still use a setup up disk like the one you have and just set up your basic user menu settings, Contrast, Brightness, Sharpness, Color/Tint , disable all the ehancements, Digitial Noise Reduction, AGC, BlackExtention, Motion Smoother.
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post #10646 of 12939 Old 12-24-2013, 09:54 AM
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I've had my 60ST60 for a week and a half now, and it's starting to really grow on me. 
Well if you did not like it you can probably sell it for more than you paid for it. 50, 55, and 60 are basically gone. 65ST are the only one's that might still be around.

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post #10647 of 12939 Old 12-24-2013, 09:56 AM
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For those of you who got Amazon to PM to Fry's a few weeks ago, and who also purchased (or plan to) Squaretrade coverage...

Did you purchase coverage based on your original purchase price or the adjusted (PM) price? The original price would have a different coverage limit and cost, when it came to a ST policy. It'd be nice to save a few bucks, but it seems like you'd be giving up the ability to replace it with a similar model if you went for the lower priced option. Plus, when Amazon PMs, they don't update the invoice, so I don't think there is any good documentition of the price matched price.
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post #10648 of 12939 Old 12-26-2013, 12:40 PM
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Hey ST60'ers, I am having LED issues. It's a 120hz LC-60LE650 on sale for $999 and overall it's a good LED. Fantastic bright room performance and PS3 gaming hasbeen as good as expected. Except, it has some flashlighting/edge bleeding in the bottom 2 corners. It's very minimal, in fact I believe if I called Sharp to come take a look at it, they would say it's within limits, and not actually do anything to fix it. So, I only bought it on Monday a few days ago, but did not notice the flashlighting/clouding corners until watching a Blu Ray last night in a fully dark room.
I plan to take it back to Sears and exchange it for another of the same model, cross my fingers, that maybe, just maybe this new LED I get does not have any of the clouding/light bleed issue.
But I'm not holding my breath.
I fully expect the new one to have the same problem.
So with that, I will want to return that one as well, except I will give up on edge lit LED's, and go for the Panny P60ST60 that they have there.
They have none in stock. They only have the floor model left. THey are asking $1499 for a new one, but they dont' have any in stock, and none are on the way, ie sold out. So what do you think the floor model would be worth? I could check the hours counter in the user menu while I'm there and see how many hours are on it. But it looks 100% perfect and mint to me, I don't see any dead pixels like I do on some of the LED display models. You think they'd sell me the floor model for $1200 ish? Has anyone asked and negotiated a floor model purchase of a plasma like this? Does it have the same 12 mo. warranty, even though its been used for commercials purposes on display? Thx for any pointers.

Panasonic 60ST60, Pioneer SC-1522-K, Polk RTiA9, PS3 Slim
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post #10649 of 12939 Old 12-26-2013, 01:03 PM
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Hey ST60'ers, I am having LED issues. It's a 120hz LC-60LE650 on sale for $999 and overall it's a good LED. Fantastic bright room performance and PS3 gaming hasbeen as good as expected. Except, it has some flashlighting/edge bleeding in the bottom 2 corners. It's very minimal, in fact I believe if I called Sharp to come take a look at it, they would say it's within limits, and not actually do anything to fix it. So, I only bought it on Monday a few days ago, but did not notice the flashlighting/clouding corners until watching a Blu Ray last night in a fully dark room.
I plan to take it back to Sears and exchange it for another of the same model, cross my fingers, that maybe, just maybe this new LED I get does not have any of the clouding/light bleed issue.
But I'm not holding my breath.
I fully expect the new one to have the same problem.
So with that, I will want to return that one as well, except I will give up on edge lit LED's, and go for the Panny P60ST60 that they have there.
They have none in stock. They only have the floor model left. THey are asking $1499 for a new one, but they dont' have any in stock, and none are on the way, ie sold out. So what do you think the floor model would be worth? I could check the hours counter in the user menu while I'm there and see how many hours are on it. But it looks 100% perfect and mint to me, I don't see any dead pixels like I do on some of the LED display models. You think they'd sell me the floor model for $1200 ish? Has anyone asked and negotiated a floor model purchase of a plasma like this? Does it have the same 12 mo. warranty, even though its been used for commercials purposes on display? Thx for any pointers.


Sears Floor model discount range between 10% - 15%.

Seeing your returning a defective product speak with manager he or she may cut you a better deal.

Yes 12 month factory warranty & 30 day return are still in place


Display : Panasonic 60ST60

Blu-Ray : Sony BDP S5100

HD-DVR : Directv HR24/100

AVR : Pioneer VSX-1020-K 7.1

Speakers : Polk RM6750 5.1

Center Speaker : Polk TL2

 

 
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post #10650 of 12939 Old 12-26-2013, 02:31 PM
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Has anyone with this model had any gaming experience with their unit? I was looking at picking one up (depending if I can still find one), and the CNET review mentioned the S60's had less lag and were more for gaming and that the ST60 was more for movies, etc.

However from everything I have read the ST60's are the superior TV. Just hesitant of picking up an ST60 and popping say Forza 5 in for the Xbox One and having any sort of stutter / lag.
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