Official Panasonic TC-PxxST60 Series thread - Page 420 - AVS Forum
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post #12571 of 12981 Old 06-06-2014, 06:53 AM
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However Film cadence mode is still greyed out. How do I enable it?
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post #12572 of 12981 Old 06-06-2014, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V_Pl_a View Post

I found the cause of my problem (screen tearing). Today I paid attention that my TV is European model and its max refresh rate therefore is 50 Hz, while my HTPC was sending 60 Hz signal to my TV. I changed the refresh rate of my HTPC to 50. Now there is no noticeable tearing and input lag. So much trouble for a new TV. rolleyes.gif

Glad you got it fixed. Model number or country of origin may help in this forum since it's NA based.
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post #12573 of 12981 Old 06-07-2014, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by V_Pl_a View Post

I found the cause of my problem (screen tearing). Today I paid attention that my TV is European model and its max refresh rate therefore is 50 Hz, while my HTPC was sending 60 Hz signal to my TV. I changed the refresh rate of my HTPC to 50. Now there is no noticeable tearing and input lag. So much trouble for a new TV. rolleyes.gif
Maybe you can try an DVI to HDMI cable, as far as I know every Panasonic comes from the factory with many output modes built in (48,50,60,96,100,120,125 etc) even if they are not so easily accessible they are there for different reasons
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post #12574 of 12981 Old 06-07-2014, 07:04 AM
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What difference does it make to connect HDMI cable to DVI on VGA via adapter? As far as I know, they are electrically the same, save for audio output.
I have smaller PC monitor connected to my HTPC and the screens (monitor and TV) were mirrored with the refresh rate set to 60 HZ. When I turned on TV yesterday, on the home screen I saw this info "HDMI 1 ... 50 Hz" and I guessed what the problem was. I was forcing 60 Hz input into 50 Hz European TV and TV was skipping the frames. Now I have desktop extended to TV and while the monitor is 60 Hz, TV works in 50 Hz mode. So far no noticeable lag or screen tearing during media playback.

By the way, running break-in slides do really help TV or resistance to burn-in?
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post #12575 of 12981 Old 06-07-2014, 09:25 AM
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Does anybody have any setting's for sports. I use Dnice settings for movies and it looks awesome, but it seems a little dark for sports?
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post #12576 of 12981 Old 06-07-2014, 01:44 PM
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Hi there!

 

I suppose I have an European version of 50ST60 since I leave in Romania...

 

My problem is that most of the big moving objects on the screen seem to be moving jerky...like in "frames"...they are not moving fluid...Is this normal?Both on TV source and HDMI/mkvs...I was expecting a plasma to have a very fluid moving objects!!!

 

For example:while whatching football,the ball moves almost ok,with just a bit of an oily tail...But if the image zooms in a bit, and a player is mooving in the image,chances are that I see that player moving jerky,in frames...

 

Is it normal for an ST60 to have this kind of jerkynes in moving objects?

 

By the way:IFC is off ,because activating this option makes moving objects look worse .In my opinion this option(IFC or whatever its called) is broken...

 

Thank you!

 

LE:This not happens all the time...But I think it happens while camera pans left or right!

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post #12577 of 12981 Old 06-08-2014, 12:52 PM
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I'm currently running D-Nice break-in slideshow and I noticed that on the grey slides near the right bezel faint green vertical line is visible. This line is not visible on the blue, red or green slides. Is this something I should be worried about?

P.S. How to check total hours?
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post #12578 of 12981 Old 06-12-2014, 02:59 PM
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Panasonis 50st 60

Hi everyone!
I'm new here and Im hoping to get your help.
I'm debating if I should buy the Panasonic 50st60 plasma. I've read all the great reviews about it online, and it's still avalible in my country. Or should i get a Sony LED instad (w829). I've notice sd brodcasts (which are still common here) look better on the Sony in the store.
Any advice for me??
Thank you all for your help!
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post #12579 of 12981 Old 06-12-2014, 06:49 PM
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The ST60 series has better picture quality than any LCD TV you can buy regardless of price.
ril850 and sheshechic like this.

Randy
TC-P55ST60, TC-P50GT50, TC-P46G10, TH-42PZ700U, TH-42PX50U, HP LC2600N, TiVo Series3, TWC Cisco 8742HDC DVR, Onkyo TX-SR333, URC R40 Remote.
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post #12580 of 12981 Old 06-13-2014, 06:11 AM
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Thanx for the quick reply

Randy thank you for your reply,
My only question is why I've noticed a better PQ on SD content on and LED. is it just calibration?
are you familiar with the Sony W829?
Thanx for your help.
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post #12581 of 12981 Old 06-13-2014, 10:11 AM
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Hey fellas, I've got something I'd like to ask the experts here. To my eyes, I've always experienced what looks like lag or a slow, choppy picture from most sets UNLESS it has the 'motion smoothing', etc ON. I know a few years ago when I was on here a lot that it was kind of a gimmicky thing that wasn't true to the source and just added fake frames or something of that nature. I've seen some that really smooth the picture motion and make it look like it was taken on a video camera (if you know what I mean..) instead of 'normal' like you'd see at a movie theater, on any normal tv, etc. What I'm getting at is when there are fast pans, there we go...that's what I was trying to say...fast pans it looks choppy and behind to my eyes. It has always bothered me, but I've always heard to turn the motion smoothing stuff off as that hurts the PQ.

Is this motion smoothing thing on this set (65st60) any good and does it hurt PQ or processing? Honestly, at times I don't like the whole motion smoothing 'look' as it looks fake, but it looks smooth to me. Anything I can do guys? Any words of advice, etc? I'm all ears and would love to learn

Panny 65st60 / Denon X1000 / EMP e55ti / EMP e56ci / EMP e5bi / (2) e1010i
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post #12582 of 12981 Old 06-13-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgpsh1967 View Post
I ended up finding the 50" ST60 for $900 at a Sears 400 miles from where I live (had to pay +$118 for delivery). Long story on how I got the deal - mainly luck and persistence. I was just happy to find a new one in the box! Getting a deal was bonus.

Impressions so far - would love anyone's thoughts:
1) Easy setup.
2) In the break-in phase, but the picture still looks good.
3) One note / question on the picture - the picture looks good but not appreciably better than my older 720P PX60U from ~2007 using 1080i source (cable). Blacks do look dark and detailed and better than my "high-mileage" PX60U (23,000 hours) but as far as "pop" or color I am not yet blown away (I have contrast set to 80 and using Home Theater mode during break in) - will calibration fix this?
4) The ST60 runs a good bit cooler than the PX60U.
5) The ST60 has no buzzing noise at sitting distance and is quieter than the PX60U if you lean your head around the back near the power supply.
6) Haven't tried the Smart features or 3D yet - don't care about these at all.
7) No issues with image retention at all (knock on wood). The PX60U had no issues either. IR susceptibility was a big concern for me - so a big thanks to the folks that urged me to jump on the ST60 if I could find one.
8) The anti-reflective filter works well. The ST-60 has the "louver" design that blocks light from above. Again, works well, BUT it does dim the screen if you view the screen slightly from above (eg walking by the tv or viewing from the kitchen) - anyone else notice this? I guess you can't have it both ways...
9) I went to Best Buy last Saturday and wanted to check out the Samsung F8500 before they get harder to find as I may just get both. I talked about the "buzzing" issues with F8500 with the salesman and he closed the door in the studio room and turned off the audio. Sure enough there was a distinct buzzing at sitting distance with the tv volume down or low. I would equate it to the buzz of a refrigerator compressor. I can see how this could be annoying to those with good hearing and kind of "listening for it". Pat -- Does yours make this noise? The Samsung picture was indeed quite bright (it was set on vivid mode) but it also ran very warm (metal backing was almost too hot to touch).
Did you turn off Eco Mode and CATS mode? I'm using Home Theater mode also (60ST60) and the picture looks great and my Contrast is in the low 70's.
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post #12583 of 12981 Old 06-14-2014, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ousooner2 View Post
Hey fellas, I've got something I'd like to ask the experts here. To my eyes, I've always experienced what looks like lag or a slow, choppy picture from most sets UNLESS it has the 'motion smoothing', etc ON. I know a few years ago when I was on here a lot that it was kind of a gimmicky thing that wasn't true to the source and just added fake frames or something of that nature. I've seen some that really smooth the picture motion and make it look like it was taken on a video camera (if you know what I mean..) instead of 'normal' like you'd see at a movie theater, on any normal tv, etc. What I'm getting at is when there are fast pans, there we go...that's what I was trying to say...fast pans it looks choppy and behind to my eyes. It has always bothered me, but I've always heard to turn the motion smoothing stuff off as that hurts the PQ.

Is this motion smoothing thing on this set (65st60) any good and does it hurt PQ or processing? Honestly, at times I don't like the whole motion smoothing 'look' as it looks fake, but it looks smooth to me. Anything I can do guys? Any words of advice, etc? I'm all ears and would love to learn
It has to do with converting film to video. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telecine
What you are seeing is refereed to as 3:2 pulldown.
If you are watching from a source that is capable of sending out 24hz, on this set, I find that setting the source (example blu-ray, media player, etc) to 1080p 60hz (instead of 1080p 24hz) produces a more natural 3:2 pulldown effect. I'm not a fan of the way this Panny handles motion. You can enable the motion smoothing & set it to low, I find that doesn't distort too much. However, on some scenes you can tell it's on.
You could also send this set a 24hz signal & turn the tv to 96hz, but I don't find it works well with all films. I found the best for me, is to send the tv a setting of 1080p 60hz.
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post #12584 of 12981 Old 06-15-2014, 05:25 AM
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Just tried to connect my macbook pro via HDMI. The set doesn't recognize the new connection. Any suggestions, I thought it would recognize the macbook automatically. The Macbook recognizes the Panny.

Thanks
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post #12585 of 12981 Old 06-15-2014, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadett View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ousooner2 View Post
Hey fellas, I've got something I'd like to ask the experts here. To my eyes, I've always experienced what looks like lag or a slow, choppy picture from most sets UNLESS it has the 'motion smoothing', etc ON. I know a few years ago when I was on here a lot that it was kind of a gimmicky thing that wasn't true to the source and just added fake frames or something of that nature. I've seen some that really smooth the picture motion and make it look like it was taken on a video camera (if you know what I mean..) instead of 'normal' like you'd see at a movie theater, on any normal tv, etc. What I'm getting at is when there are fast pans, there we go...that's what I was trying to say...fast pans it looks choppy and behind to my eyes. It has always bothered me, but I've always heard to turn the motion smoothing stuff off as that hurts the PQ.

Is this motion smoothing thing on this set (65st60) any good and does it hurt PQ or processing? Honestly, at times I don't like the whole motion smoothing 'look' as it looks fake, but it looks smooth to me. Anything I can do guys? Any words of advice, etc? I'm all ears and would love to learn
It has to do with converting film to video. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telecine
What you are seeing is refereed to as 3:2 pulldown.
If you are watching from a source that is capable of sending out 24hz, on this set, I find that setting the source (example blu-ray, media player, etc) to 1080p 60hz (instead of 1080p 24hz) produces a more natural 3:2 pulldown effect. I'm not a fan of the way this Panny handles motion. You can enable the motion smoothing & set it to low, I find that doesn't distort too much. However, on some scenes you can tell it's on.
You could also send this set a 24hz signal & turn the tv to 96hz, but I don't find it works well with all films. I found the best for me, is to send the tv a setting of 1080p 60hz.

Thanks for the reply. My source for most is a DVR box from Cox Communications (the new, smaller black boxes), but I don't see any kind of option for 24hz/60hz/90hz. My other source is my WDTV-live, but I don't think that has that option either. I might just have to turn the motion smoother on the tv to low/mid and see if I can deal with it.

Panny 65st60 / Denon X1000 / EMP e55ti / EMP e56ci / EMP e5bi / (2) e1010i
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post #12586 of 12981 Old 06-16-2014, 11:50 AM
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Just tried to connect my macbook pro via HDMI. The set doesn't recognize the new connection. Any suggestions, I thought it would recognize the macbook automatically. The Macbook recognizes the Panny.

Thanks
With everything off, connect the laptop to the TV, boot up the laptop then turn on the TV.
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post #12587 of 12981 Old 06-17-2014, 02:06 AM
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When I turn on my TV via remote, before the screen lights up, the red LED on the TV turns to green and blinks rapidly for like 20 times. What does rapid blink mean?
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post #12588 of 12981 Old 06-17-2014, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V_Pl_a View Post
I'm currently running D-Nice break-in slideshow and I noticed that on the grey slides near the right bezel faint green vertical line is visible. This line is not visible on the blue, red or green slides. Is this something I should be worried about?

P.S. How to check total hours?
That green line is the green sub pixels on the right side. Using the gray slide you may see a purplish color on the left side also. It's normal to see it up close since the subpixel layout is Blue/Red/Green.

On the 20 blink thing, you may want to remove all cables and power then restart with just the power cable hooked up. Here's a post from a much older tv that may be relevant. That 20 blinks thing doesn't show up much. Is the tv dead?

Issue with TH-42PD50U.....power led blinks 20 times and remote unresponsive
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post #12589 of 12981 Old 06-17-2014, 05:14 AM
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No, God forbid, the TV works just fine. But this blink bothers me. How can I power the TV without power cable?

BTW I have no antenna connected to TV, only HDMI.
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post #12590 of 12981 Old 06-17-2014, 05:31 AM
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I turned off the TV, disconnected power cable from the wall socket and other cables, then powered on with only power cable. Blinked two or three times. Then again powered off and connected HDMI. Blinked two or three times during power up.
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post #12591 of 12981 Old 06-17-2014, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by seanfoh View Post

My contrast is also 79 and I am a very avid gamer. I had some troubles with IR in my early days of owning the set. It can be quite persistent, especially with bright white HUDs. I had the health bar from Dead Island: Riptide stay up and be noticeable on it for nearly two weeks when I stupidly played for 10+ hours straight when I only had a couple hundred hours on the set. It did eventually go away though.

However, the IR time *drastically* reduced once I hit over 2000 hours on the set and keeps being less and less of an issue as time goes by. Just keep being careful with it and eventually it won't be an issue at all. Once you hit a certain point stuff should fade pretty easily no matter how long you play a game for. White HUD pieces will stay the longest. Colored HUD pieces, especially non-bright colors, basically won't stay at all.
That's what I like to hear, I was worried when I had the race time and the Xbox One logo staying on the screen for a while. Both of those elements are 100% white. I'm just not getting closer to 800 hours and I got my fingers crossed I'll see the same thing you did.
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post #12592 of 12981 Old 06-18-2014, 12:32 PM
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Hi,

I have found that when playing games I need to set the Game Mode to On and when watching TV I need to turn it off. This is done a bit in to the menu so the question is if there is a command I can use for my Logitech Harmony One+?
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post #12593 of 12981 Old 06-21-2014, 10:56 AM
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I recently hooked my computer back up to the ST60 via HDMI port 3 and since I don't have D-Nice's settings on there I'm using Cinema mode I think which doesn't do video games a whole lot of justice. I was just curious, before I plug D-Nice's settings into that input, what settings do you guys use for gaming?

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post #12594 of 12981 Old 06-23-2014, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Lethean View Post
I recently hooked my computer back up to the ST60 via HDMI port 3 and since I don't have D-Nice's settings on there I'm using Cinema mode I think which doesn't do video games a whole lot of justice. I was just curious, before I plug D-Nice's settings into that input, what settings do you guys use for gaming?
Im not using D-Nice´s settings at all, never really saw tha point. All panels is diffrent so there is not really any point to callibrate according to another panel. The best you could do is to manually set it up yourself, set it as you like it, you may even find a setting that looks better (to you) then the D-Nice´s.

The only changes I have made to the factory settings is

- BIO mode when dark in the room and NORMAL when bright
- Game mode on when gaming and off when doing other stuff (game mode removes a couple of feautures)
- Lower the extra motion flow a couple of steps. I really like the smoothness this gives. I know that alot of dont. (this option is not available in game mode)

Im really happy with the factory setting on this TV, the last LG TV I got I hade to change ALOT to get a picture I liked. Vary happy with this TV
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post #12595 of 12981 Old 06-23-2014, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lethean View Post
I recently hooked my computer back up to the ST60 via HDMI port 3 and since I don't have D-Nice's settings on there I'm using Cinema mode I think which doesn't do video games a whole lot of justice. I was just curious, before I plug D-Nice's settings into that input, what settings do you guys use for gaming?

I personally use D-Nice's panel prep and settings for my 50ST60. I've noticed Games really shine using these settings particularly because the colors look phenomenal with these settings.

I actually think Game Mode doesn't work properly for Games and leave it off. But you should test it on various games to see if there is a decline or improvement in the picture according to your eyes.


Last edited by MetalMX23; 06-23-2014 at 01:26 AM.
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post #12596 of 12981 Old 06-23-2014, 01:56 AM
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I actually think Game Mode doesn't work properly for Games and leave it off. But you should test it on various games to see if there is a decline or improvement in the picture according to your eyes.
In what way is it not working? I have the europe version and here it is a big diffrence in input lag? Without the game mode I would never even concidering playing high precision games like Battlefield and Grid.

I also have a HTPC with Windows connected and when moving the mouse I can notice a BIG diffrence between game mode on/off?

I know that input lag is a known problem on this TV set and I agree but with Game mode on it gets okay. My prev LG TV hade lower input lag, so low that it was never noticed.

I have however not notice any big diffrence in picture quality more then a couple of feutures that are disabled when game mode are on(like extra motion flow).

I am using feutures that depends on game mode on/off so I always have to switch game mode on/off based on what I are about to watch. If I miss I will notice it instantly.
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post #12597 of 12981 Old 06-23-2014, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by snowjim View Post
In what way is it not working? I have the europe version and here it is a big diffrence in input lag? Without the game mode I would never even concidering playing high precision games like Battlefield and Grid.

I also have a HTPC with Windows connected and when moving the mouse I can notice a BIG diffrence between game mode on/off?

I know that input lag is a known problem on this TV set and I agree but with Game mode on it gets okay. My prev LG TV hade lower input lag, so low that it was never noticed.

I have however not notice any big diffrence in picture quality more then a couple of feutures that are disabled when game mode are on(like extra motion flow).

I am using feutures that depends on game mode on/off so I always have to switch game mode on/off based on what I are about to watch. If I miss I will notice it instantly.

I believe the input lag (~73ms) is only an issue when you are playing fast paced video games and particularly online e.g COD etc. Otherwise i find it distorts the picture similar to the way turning ON a motion smoother or noise reduction filter does.

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post #12598 of 12981 Old 06-23-2014, 02:27 AM
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I believe the input lag (~73ms) is only an issue when you are playing fast paced video games and particularly online e.g COD etc. Otherwise i find it distorts the picture similar to the way turning ON a motion smoother or noise reduction filter does.
Have you even tried to move a mouse around in game mode off? Its alot of lag and I notice it clearly in most games I play, even state of decay that are not that fast of a game. Yhea I know that some games are supose to feel sluggish in the control but it is way to much with game mode off. I supose that games like civ and so on could do with off setting.

Interesting, you are the first that says that you notice a distortions in picture qulity with game mode on. Can you explain exacly what that distortion is?

When running motion smoother at max you will often notice distorations around the moving objects? is it these distortions you are refering to? I have set mine motion smoother on medium but yes it does generate som destortions from time to time but the motion flow is so nice that I can live with it

Sorry, dont kow anything about the noise destortions, im letting my receiver handling the sound for me.
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post #12599 of 12981 Old 06-23-2014, 05:06 AM
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Trouble with contrast and brightness settings P65ST60

Have the 65 inch ST60 (good ole HH Gregg floor model) and am having some difficulty with calibration. Hoping to afford a real calibration sometime in the future but for now, am using the Disney WOW disc to set the basics of contrast, brightness, color, and tint. In both custom (contrast 81 and brightness 11) and cinema (contrast 82 and brightness 5) modes is that if I set the contrast and brightness to the corresponding test screens, the image looks too dark. I thought initially this was due to being used to the over saturated pop of my former LCD so waited to get used to it. After a while, it still seemed dark so I upped the contrast in each mode to around 86 and this brought before unseen details out in the picture- for example in dark scenes, when I turned it up, background images suddenly appeared from out of the dark. So I put the WOW disc in to see how the test patterns match with the upped contrast and of course, the whites are clipped and unclip once I back the contrast back down again. Any ideas? Figured I would post here first and then try the WOW forum. BTW, the PQ is fantastic either way. Thanks!
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post #12600 of 12981 Old 06-23-2014, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowjim View Post
Have you even tried to move a mouse around in game mode off? Its alot of lag and I notice it clearly in most games I play, even state of decay that are not that fast of a game. Yhea I know that some games are supose to feel sluggish in the control but it is way to much with game mode off. I supose that games like civ and so on could do with off setting.

Interesting, you are the first that says that you notice a distortions in picture qulity with game mode on. Can you explain exacly what that distortion is?

When running motion smoother at max you will often notice distorations around the moving objects? is it these distortions you are refering to? I have set mine motion smoother on medium but yes it does generate som destortions from time to time but the motion flow is so nice that I can live with it

Sorry, dont kow anything about the noise destortions, im letting my receiver handling the sound for me.

I only play Xbox 360 games on my ST60 i don't hook my laptop up to the TV to use for gaming.

My mistake turning on Game Mode in GTA V just now has improved the lag a good deal. I'm not sure why i saw it otherwise perhaps because there was a bit of judder in the Game mode.

I set Noise Reduction, MPEG Noise Reduction - OFF for all content. Only Intelligent Frame Creation i either use at Max or OFF. I want to see all images as naturally intended the motion smoother's tend to produce an artificial appearance . I find Intelligent Frame Creation to be the only useful image enhancer and it appears to keep the image natural during use but it adds input lag to gaming so best left OFF for games. NR and MPEG NR should also be left OFF for games.


Last edited by MetalMX23; 06-23-2014 at 09:04 AM.
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