Originally Posted by noom
Sorry for my poor English.
I have Panasonic 50ST60 for a while but i just found magenta and cyan are under saturated.(sometimes images that have cyan color look a bit blue)
As you knew ST60 can't adjust secondary color(yellow, cyan, magenta)
I have CALMAN(newbie) but i still can't reach to the right color.
I just found second hand(in Thailand) 65VT50 2,400 USD and 65VT60 2,812 USD. Is it worth for buying? if can't fix that st60 problem.
My ST60 color gamut
That chart is way off. Either your TV or calibration is defective, and as you say you're a Calman newbie, there's a good chance it's the latter. Start by using Custom mode and set everything to defaults. Set Brightness and Contrast per AVS HD 709; you can target a specific light output later using your meter, and 67 gives me 38 fL using 2% windows, excellent for dark room viewing. Set Color Temperature to Warm 2. Set gamma to 2.6. Turn off CATS and all the "enhancements". Here's an excerpt of a message I wrote a week or two ago detailing my procedures and the results I get using just the TV controls, just to show you what is possible.
My approach to my 50ST60 is to adjust the High RGB in the 2 point White balance first, monitoring the effect it has on 70-100%; I don't touch the Low section of the 2 pt WB because it leads to red tinted blacks even after doing 10 point grayscale. Then I use the 10 point grayscale to make the Blue and Red equal to Green at each point. Then I use the 10 point Gamma to adjust the curve shape as a whole. Then I recheck grayscale and gamma and make whatever minor adjustments are needed. Then I do a slightly custom CMS at 75% Stimulus, 75% Saturation and check it over 10 point sweeps at 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100%. I find it's always oversaturated in Red and Green at the 100% saturation points, so if you just do the standard CMS pattern, which is 75% Stimulus, 100% Saturation, you will likely end up under-saturating all the points below 100% saturation, and they're more important by far. This procedure gets me the following results (Avg dE, Max dE) using 2% windows with my i1D3 profiled against a ColorMunki Photo:
10 point grayscale (.4, .69)
21 point grayscale (.47, 1.53)
25% 10 point Saturation Sweep (.61, 1.48)
50% 10 point Saturation Sweep (.61, 1.4)
75% 10 point Saturation Sweep (.59, 1.89)
100% 10 point Saturation Sweep (.95, 2.69)
ColorChecker (.69, 1.94)
ColorChecker Full, the one with a gazillion points (.81, 2.23)
The gamma tracks the BT.1886 curve very, very closely. There is no red tint to blacks, and the picture looks great at all APL levels, without green-tinted skin tones in low APL scenes I observed when using Spears and Munsil Equal Energy patterns. For the Saturation Sweeps, the largest errors are at the 100% Saturation points, and I would definitely sacrifice them a bit if it makes the other points line up better. All the same, my 100% points are far, far closer to their squares than yours as my maximum dEs all less than 3 imply. This includes the secondaries of course, and the inability to control them with CMS is not a huge weakness IMO.