Official Panasonic TC-PxxST60 Series thread - Page 439 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13141 of 13379 Old 01-04-2015, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by davemsc View Post
Any suggestions?
A laptop with an HDMI output and set the screen resolution to 1080i.
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post #13142 of 13379 Old 01-04-2015, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by davemsc View Post
Maybe it's the cable provider but all of a sudden? Every HD channel is doing it. Any suggestions?
You could easily rule out your cable provider as the culprit by playing a BluRay disk on your player, and/or streaming video from an outside source, ie. Roku, FireTV, or even use the built-in streaming app on your ST60.
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post #13143 of 13379 Old 01-04-2015, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by davemsc View Post
Maybe it's the cable provider but all of a sudden? Every HD channel is doing it. Any suggestions?
What is your "Motion smoother" setting? Last February, in response to a question about achieving maximum smoothness (AKA soap opera effect), I posted the following:

Quote:
Originally Posted by L David Matheny View Post
I also have a P55ST60, and I also like the "soap opera effect" at least in principle. I've played with the motion smoothing settings a bit, and I decided to stick with Mid after watching a Snowy Owl episode of Nature. When the owl glides across a complex background early in the episode, I saw the moving background sometimes jump every second or so on Strong, and I concluded that the ST60 may not have enough processing power to do that much motion smoothing. OTOH, I have tried Strong while watching some of the Olympics, and I have not seen the same issue, so I guess more testing is in order.
I never did anything worthy of the term "more testing", but I seemed to prefer smoothing set at either Mid or Weak, and I finally left it on Weak because if (when) it somehow falls short, I would rather see undercorrection than artifacts of the smoothing process.
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post #13144 of 13379 Old 01-04-2015, 09:50 AM
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Quick question:

Does anybody know if the Amazon Instant Video app on the 60ST60 can be configured to stream 5.1 audio for movies that are listed by Amazon as having 5.1 audio? I streamed The Equalizer last night and only got 2.0 audio. I have read in other threads that this app was supposed to have been updated a while back to play 5.1 audio. I connected the TV to my receiver via optical digital cable. Yes, the receiver is OK because it will play 5.1 audio when I am using the cable box input via optical.

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post #13145 of 13379 Old 01-05-2015, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by cajieboy View Post
You could easily rule out your cable provider as the culprit by playing a BluRay disk on your player, and/or streaming video from an outside source, ie. Roku, FireTV, or even use the built-in streaming app on your ST60.
Yeah, the blu ray and netflix is fine. I was wondering if the update did anything with how the tv handles 1080i or 720p from a cable box?

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post #13146 of 13379 Old 01-05-2015, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by davemsc View Post
Yeah, the blu ray and netflix is fine. I was wondering if the update did anything with how the tv handles 1080i or 720p from a cable box?
OK, that is narrowing it down a bit, and it's my guess that it isn't the TV. Maybe that cable box is defective?
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post #13147 of 13379 Old 01-05-2015, 01:56 PM
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Yeah, the blu ray and netflix is fine. I was wondering if the update did anything with how the tv handles 1080i or 720p from a cable box?
It might just be weather, snow or ice on the satellite dishes the cable company uses.
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post #13148 of 13379 Old 01-05-2015, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L David Matheny View Post
What is your "Motion smoother" setting? Last February, in response to a question about achieving maximum smoothness (AKA soap opera effect), I posted the following:
i


I never did anything worthy of the term "more testing", but I seemed to prefer smoothing set at either Mid or Weak, and I finally left it on Weak because if (when) it somehow falls short, I would rather see undercorrection than artifacts of the smoothing process.
I would not set motion smoother to Strong, this will produce motion artifacts. If you like the Soap Opera Effect, and some do like this, then use mid or weak. For the purists, we like to keep it OFF.
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post #13149 of 13379 Old 01-07-2015, 07:07 AM
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When the family was over, they managed to push a button that has caused my TV on startup to always boot the main screen to the tiled look.

How do I remove this? It angers me ever time I see that crap and have to pick up the remote a second time..... :-)

Looked through settings and pushing the 'blue' button when it is on that screen (settings) but can't seem to find the option to shut it off.

Thanks.

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post #13150 of 13379 Old 01-07-2015, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hearzy View Post
When the family was over, they managed to push a button that has caused my TV on startup to always boot the main screen to the tiled look.

How do I remove this? It angers me ever time I see that crap and have to pick up the remote a second time..... :-)


Looked through settings and pushing the 'blue' button when it is on that screen (settings) but can't seem to find the option to shut it off.

Thanks.
Press the "home" key on the remote twice and you can set the home page there.
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post #13151 of 13379 Old 01-07-2015, 07:22 PM
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Hate it when something like that happens. I have a complicated set up where I run everything through the Oppo 103D so when someone that's not 'trained' touches the remote- it messes everything up. That's why the rule at my casa is if you want to fiddle with the remote you better be willing to learn how to use it first Classes are once a month and I have a sing along version to help remember just like that "Modern Family" episode
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post #13152 of 13379 Old 01-07-2015, 09:42 PM
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buy used st60 for $725 or f8500 NIB for $1275

used 55 inch st 60 seller says he got in Nov '13 used it 2-3 hrs a day from NOv now has to get rid of it cause he moved into his parents house will buy a 4k tv when times are better for him. Sale will at a local Best Buy where i can check everything. yes I know he's lying about the 2-3 hrs a day.

51 inch f8500 for $1275 NIB


which one should i get? btw I'm using in the dark most of the time.
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post #13153 of 13379 Old 01-07-2015, 10:01 PM
 
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I would take the 55ST60 but what made you think the seller is lying? 2-3 hours per day sounds pretty normal
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post #13154 of 13379 Old 01-08-2015, 03:24 AM
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I don't know, though . . . the TV's already over a year old, vs. NIB . . . ? Have no idea what a f8500 commands these days.

It's easy to check the hours on the set, although you won't know if the value may have been reset at some point.

Last edited by perchancetodream; 01-08-2015 at 03:28 AM.
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post #13155 of 13379 Old 01-08-2015, 04:52 AM
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Ask in a Panasonic forum people are probably going to say Panasonic. Ask in a Samsung forum people are probably going to say Samsung. In the end the choice is yours.

Panasonic has always been more reliable than Samsung but you'll get a warranty with the Samsung.
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post #13156 of 13379 Old 01-08-2015, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spaml View Post
used 55 inch st 60 seller says he got in Nov '13 used it 2-3 hrs a day from NOv now has to get rid of it cause he moved into his parents house will buy a 4k tv when times are better for him. Sale will at a local Best Buy where i can check everything. yes I know he's lying about the 2-3 hrs a day.

Check the usage hours in the menu.
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post #13157 of 13379 Old 01-08-2015, 06:03 PM
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Just coming in to say hi! I have owned a 55ST60 since April of 13. I unfortunately am dealing with my first case of IR. I primarily use it for gaming as it is in my gaming room though it occasionally gets sports and movies and it is the screen for my home theater set up.
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post #13158 of 13379 Old 01-08-2015, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Vandy58 View Post
Just coming in to say hi! I have owned a 55ST60 since April of 13. I unfortunately am dealing with my first case of IR. I primarily use it for gaming as it is in my gaming room though it occasionally gets sports and movies and it is the screen for my home theater set up.
Just read your post in the other thread you started but figured I would answer you here.

I owned an ST60 and will say that in my experience it did not handle IR well so your experience does not surprise me.

Breaking in your panel would not have helped it handle IR any better. It does not prevent an ounce of IR but only puts hours on it so your colors would not drift as much if you wanted to calibrate it.

It could take weeks to months to remove all or most hints of the IR that you see. I would not recommend playing that game or at least see if you can lighten up or complete remove the HUD in the game that caused the IR. Some games do have these options.

Just have patience, run the pixel flipper and try to forget about it. It won't be a bid deal if you only see it on a colored slide and really look for it so the goal for me would be to just get it to clear that you cannot see it on regular content that you watch.
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post #13159 of 13379 Old 01-08-2015, 06:39 PM
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Just read your post in the other thread you started but figured I would answer you here.

I owned an ST60 and will say that in my experience it did not handle IR well so your experience does not surprise me.

Breaking in your panel would not have helped it handle IR any better. It does not prevent an ounce of IR but only puts hours on it so your colors would not drift as much if you wanted to calibrate it.

It could take weeks to months to remove all or most hints of the IR that you see. I would not recommend playing that game or at least see if you can lighten up or complete remove the HUD in the game that caused the IR. Some games do have these options.

Just have patience, run the pixel flipper and try to forget about it. It won't be a bid deal if you only see it on a colored slide and really look for it so the goal for me would be to just get it to clear that you cannot see it on regular content that you watch.
Thanks for the reply! Yeah I figured I had a long battle ahead of me. The game is Destiny and unfortunately it does not have the option to remove the HUD. I have heard that running pixel flipper or the on board screen wipe for 15-30 minutes after playing can help prevent future IR? Also when I am running the movies to help get rid of the IR should I have it on vivid mode to boost up the contrast or just keep it at the 44 I normally run things at?
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post #13160 of 13379 Old 01-08-2015, 06:55 PM
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Thanks for the reply! Yeah I figured I had a long battle ahead of me. The game is Destiny and unfortunately it does not have the option to remove the HUD. I have heard that running pixel flipper or the on board screen wipe for 15-30 minutes after playing can help prevent future IR? Also when I am running the movies to help get rid of the IR should I have it on vivid mode to boost up the contrast or just keep it at the 44 I normally run things at?
To be honest, there is no exact science to clearing things up. Running it to brought in vivid mode will just kick in ABL more often.

I would just let the pixel flipper run through the nights when you are sleeping at a brighter level then what you watch the TV at. No one can really tell you if it will go away and how long it would take. Every situation is unique and different. Good luck and let us know if it gets better.
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post #13161 of 13379 Old 01-08-2015, 07:02 PM
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To be honest, there is no exact science to clearing things up. Running it to brought in vivid mode will just kick in ABL more often.

I would just let the pixel flipper run through the nights when you are sleeping at a brighter level then what you watch the TV at. No one can really tell you if it will go away and how long it would take. Every situation is unique and different. Good luck and let us know if it gets better.
will do!
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post #13162 of 13379 Old 01-09-2015, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post
It could take weeks to months to remove all or most hints of the IR that you see.
I can confirm this could be the case. I had stubborn IR from a particular station with a solid bright logo. I thought I would be stuck with it forever as anything I tried did not seem to be able to remove it. It eventually went away after MONTHS (i.e. several hundred hours) of watching stuff and occasionally running slides / the white bar. But it did go away.

Since then I lowered the contrast to 30-40 for the TV input and only have it in the 80s for my streaming and media player stuff.
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post #13163 of 13379 Old 01-09-2015, 03:40 AM
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Fellow ST60 owners,

What mode do you calibrate, Cinema or Custom?
I find Cinema and Custom behave completely different with the exact same settings and require different calibration settings.

Cinema mode will clip above step 240 so peak Contrast is at this step.
Custom mode will not clip till 255 so I have to use several more Contrast clicks so the image will have the same brightness at the same step.

Moreover, Chroma behaves differently.
Copying my calibrated (i1DPro) settings from Custom to Cinema yields desaturated colors on the Cinema mode as measured by the calibration device.
To properly calibrate Cinema mode I have to choose the "Native" color mode, whether in Custom mode "Normal" is almost spot on.

Personally, Custom mode is the only mode worth bothering with calibration.

Last edited by James Freeman; 01-09-2015 at 03:52 AM.
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post #13164 of 13379 Old 01-09-2015, 04:23 AM
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Quote:
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Fellow ST60 owners,

What mode do you calibrate, Cinema or Custom?
I find Cinema and Custom behave completely different with the exact same settings and require different calibration settings.

Cinema mode will clip above step 240 so peak Contrast is at this step.
Custom mode will not clip till 255 so I have to use several more Contrast clicks so the image will have the same brightness at the same step.

Moreover, Chroma behaves differently.
Copying my calibrated (i1DPro) settings from Custom to Cinema yields desaturated colors on the Cinema mode as measured by the calibration device.
To properly calibrate Cinema mode I have to choose the "Native" color mode, whether in Custom mode "Normal" is almost spot on.

Personally, Custom mode is the only mode worth bothering with calibration.
That is consistent with my experience with the ST60.

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post #13165 of 13379 Old 01-09-2015, 05:31 AM
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That is consistent with my experience with the ST60.
Glad to read that.

I've been trying to calibrate Cinema mode for couple of months but no matter what the CMS just did not behave well.
Only when I switched to Custom and everything fell into place in a snap, and the CMS behaves as it should in Custom mode.

A few calibration tricks of mine:

The gamma curve resembles a BT.1886 curve instead a power law.
I use Black Extension (2 or 3) to bring it closer to power law instead of the individual 10 Gamma steps.
Only step 100IRE is tweaked to make the brightest part of the gamma to behave.

I don't touch the W/B 10 steps because I find they destroy the transitions between greys (yes it's because APL +ABL).
I only use the High and Low RGB gain adjustments but very slightly, I find that tweaking the Low gains makes the most difference.
Currently I have -2 on Low Green, that's it.
Strangely enough, calibrating by eye to match my i1-display-pro calibrated IPS panel gave me the best results.
Using my perfect APL picture (keep reading).

I use a HTPC and HCFR to calibrate the screen which is secondary in my OS.
I use the perfect (IMO) APL background which is made of a bunch of small screen shots of several scenes from several movies.
Only then HCFR displays a 1% windows on top of that background which is behind the window ("GDI No Background" in HCFR).
The 1% window is to not effect the APL the background creates.

I use the "Screen Wipe" function as much as I can between measurements for consistency and against image retention.

IMO plasma is the hardest display to calibrate, but after few months of pain, frustration and tears I finally got it.
The trick was to maintain a stable movie like APL, and calibrating using the smallest window.

Here is the background I use for the perfect APL (16-235):


Here's how I do:
Its a 1920x800 version because I mainly watch 2.39:1 movies.
The phone camera can't capture all that contrast (not enough f-stops) which is only on 60.

Last edited by James Freeman; 01-09-2015 at 06:09 AM.
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post #13166 of 13379 Old 01-09-2015, 07:00 AM
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Press the "home" key on the remote twice and you can set the home page there.
That was easy - Thanks.

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post #13167 of 13379 Old 01-09-2015, 11:34 PM
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older firmwares

Does anyone still have a backup copy of firmware 2.727 ?
Older is fine too: 2.720, 2.712

The only link I found was
eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/support/en/tv/2013/P132_2720.zip
which no longer works.
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post #13168 of 13379 Old 01-10-2015, 12:01 AM
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Does anyone still have a backup copy of firmware 2.727 ?
Older is fine too: 2.720, 2.712
Why what's wrong with the latest?
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post #13169 of 13379 Old 01-10-2015, 01:21 AM
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Why what's wrong with the latest?
So I'm having Audio-Video out of sync issues when trying to add a sound bar. I still have access to 3 different soundbars right now, and can't get any of them to sync 100% perfectly.

At first blush, what seems to be going on is the audio is later than video, due to the soundbar's DSP's having too much processing delay.

Except, I think what's also going on is the ST60 firmware "lip sync fix" is additionally buffering audio to bring it inline with the video processing delay.

I would like to add an audio delay circuit at this point so I can move on and choose a soundbar just on fidelity, but I would need to bring the ST60 audio output back to ahead of the video with a wider margin. I'm hoping a Firmware downgrade to before their "fix" would accomplish this.
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post #13170 of 13379 Old 01-10-2015, 02:12 AM
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Just purchased a 60" ST60 off craigslist with 1400 hours for $525. I've very happy. Much improved picture over my 6 year old panny 50".

And to think I was very close to laying down $1500 on a LG or Samsung LCD.

I know. Cool story bro.

But I just had to share.
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