Official Panasonic TC-PxxST60 Series thread - Page 454 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13591 of 13642 Old 04-26-2016, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by EscapeVelocity View Post
I have a Samsung 51" F8500 with some IR issues. The 50" ST60 has zero IR issues and I might use it for gaming. Very excited.

I figured it might be because of the lack of processing power with the lower end ST60. But I wanted a backlit remote regardless and it wont hurt to try it out. It's an issue I can live with for the excellent picture quality. Good AR filter and bonus for my particular set, lack of IR issue.
Be at least a little cautious playing games. I played games for a long time without any problems but after a marathon session once I had some IR that took a month or more of watching TV to completely go away. I'm a little more careful playing games now and haven't had any issues since.
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post #13592 of 13642 Old 04-26-2016, 04:18 PM
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One of the reasons that plasma lost to LCD, unfortunately.

Panasonic AX-200u / Optoma Graywolf 92" / Draper Luma 92"
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post #13593 of 13642 Old 04-26-2016, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by EscapeVelocity View Post
I have a Samsung 51" F8500 with some IR issues. The 50" ST60 has zero IR issues and I might use it for gaming. Very excited.
Since you have both sets, would you mind sharing your thoughts about strengths/weaknesses?
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post #13594 of 13642 Old 04-26-2016, 04:48 PM
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Id be interested in yours, too. I havent had much time with the ST60 yet, bear in mind.

The ST60 has better black levels. They are just there, they dont require tweaking to get them. The Samsung requires more tweaking to get them. And the issue with the white crush and needing to turn up the "backlight level" and contrast doesnt help.

The Samsung has a superior AR filter, though the ST60 is pretty good too. The Samsung also has higher light output, but the ST60 isnt bad in that department either.

The Samsung Smart Features are better and much more ergononomic to use. But I dont use either, I use Roku and Amazon Fire boxes. Samsung seems to have more processing power behind the Smart Features too, being very snappy. The Samsung has better integration with technology and connectivity.

Both have good ATSC tuners.


The ST60 is superior in a darkened room, but can handle a bright room. The Samsung with it's higher light output and superior AR filter is superior in a light polluted mess of a room (which I have it in, room with walls of windows on 3 sides) but still does very good at night there.

If I could only choose one, Id probably pick the ST60...because at the end of the day it's about picture quality and the black levels are just superior on the ST60 combined with it's still higher end for a plasma light output (2nd only to Samsung) and it's a better display (as opposed to gizmo wiztechery)

EDIT: The IR issue is neither here nor there. Both sets have variations in manufacturing and some units have to greater degrees than others in both models production runs. So not really an issue.
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Samsung 51F8500 Plasma / Panasonic P50ST60 Plasma / Vizio GV42LF LCD / Vizio VP322 Plasma
Sony S790 BD / Panasonic BDT-220 / Roku 2 XS & Roku 2 (Ver. 3)
Oppo 983H Anchor Bay VRS / Panasonic S97 Faroudja Genesis / Oppo 970HD MediaTek
Aiwa MX100 Multi-region VCR / JVC S7600 S-VHS

Last edited by EscapeVelocity; 04-26-2016 at 04:52 PM.
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post #13595 of 13642 Old 04-26-2016, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by samijubal View Post
The only menu lag I see with my ST60s is when the menu is first opened, after that it's fine. I've got macros to change picture modes that can do the half a dozen different key strokes in about one second, two at the most. I have to open the menu and close it first before using the macros though because the first time the menu is opened there is a lag and the macros won't work right.
It could be that different sequences behave differently. In the two sets I purchased in April 2013, there's sometimes lag, and sometimes a single button press acts like two. Very annoying when calibrating White Balance and whatnot, because you can't leave any UI on-screen, no matter how minimal, while taking a measurement, because it can affect the measurement due to ABL. So you have to close out of the UI after making an adjustment, take a reading, and navigate back to where you were in the menus to make a change. It's very tedious when the arrow buttons sometimes register a different number of button presses than you made. I eventually wrote a program to allow me to use the TCP/IP interface, which I found doesn't suffer from this issue. (My ST60 is connected to my HTPC, and I use Autohotkey to translate the IR commands to command lines for my program.) Again, this behavior was completely absent from the S60 I briefly had in between the two ST60s.
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post #13596 of 13642 Old 04-26-2016, 06:30 PM
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Im thinking about picking up a pen or 2 for this set as they are only $5 a peice brand new.

But then I thought, I really dont want to write on my plasma and mar the AR coatings.



What are the best 3D glasses for the ST60 out of curiosity? Not that I use 3D much. I have 2 pair that came with the set, that looks like most 3D glasses that came with HDTVs. Used once or twice then never used again >great condition.

Panasonic AX-200u / Optoma Graywolf 92" / Draper Luma 92"
Samsung 51F8500 Plasma / Panasonic P50ST60 Plasma / Vizio GV42LF LCD / Vizio VP322 Plasma
Sony S790 BD / Panasonic BDT-220 / Roku 2 XS & Roku 2 (Ver. 3)
Oppo 983H Anchor Bay VRS / Panasonic S97 Faroudja Genesis / Oppo 970HD MediaTek
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post #13597 of 13642 Old 04-26-2016, 11:29 PM
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sometimes a single button press acts like two.
They do that whether using the Panasonic remote or a universal. I was hoping they'd fix that with a firmware update but I guess not.

Funny thing, and I never thought about it until now, I don't think it does that when I use the macros to change picture modes, if it did the macro wouldn't work right and I don't remember having problems with the macros.
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post #13598 of 13642 Old 04-27-2016, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by samijubal View Post
They do that whether using the Panasonic remote or a universal. I was hoping they'd fix that with a firmware update but I guess not.

Funny thing, and I never thought about it until now, I don't think it does that when I use the macros to change picture modes, if it did the macro wouldn't work right and I don't remember having problems with the macros.
It could be that your macro has sufficient delay between presses to avoid the issue, or maybe different parts of the menu behave differently WRT the issue. I've spent an awful lot of time in the calibration controls, and besides the lag/jumping, it is possible to encounter really screwed up situations like the UI showing that you're adjusting the 50% white balance level when you're actually adjusting the 60% level. You really need to be very deliberate when working in that part of the menu, and it's all the more frustrating since you have to exit and navigate through it over and over again as I previously described.
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post #13599 of 13642 Old 04-27-2016, 10:23 AM
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It could be that your macro has sufficient delay between presses to avoid the issue, or maybe different parts of the menu behave differently WRT the issue. I've spent an awful lot of time in the calibration controls, and besides the lag/jumping, it is possible to encounter really screwed up situations like the UI showing that you're adjusting the 50% white balance level when you're actually adjusting the 60% level. You really need to be very deliberate when working in that part of the menu, and it's all the more frustrating since you have to exit and navigate through it over and over again as I previously described.
I was thinking the opposite on the macros. They work fast, it only takes a second or so to do the half a dozen commands needed to change modes and it doesn't have time to do a double before the next command. The last one is OK/enter, whichever it is on the original remote I don't remember, so I wouldn't know if it doubles that one since nothing would happen pressing OK twice. If it did a double other than the last command using the macros I'd know, they wouldn't work right. I already have to open and close the menu, I can do that as fast as I want they just have to be opened, and exit the menus at picture settings for the macros to work.
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post #13600 of 13642 Old 04-27-2016, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EscapeVelocity View Post
Im thinking about picking up a pen or 2 for this set as they are only $5 a peice brand new.

But then I thought, I really dont want to write on my plasma and mar the AR coatings.



What are the best 3D glasses for the ST60 out of curiosity? Not that I use 3D much. I have 2 pair that came with the set, that looks like most 3D glasses that came with HDTVs. Used once or twice then never used again >great condition.
You can use Panasonic or Samsung glasses, just make sure they are Bluetooth not IR glasses. LG glasses don't work.
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post #13601 of 13642 Old 04-28-2016, 08:58 PM
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Buying a TC-P50ST60

Hello I have a opportunity to purchase a 50ST60 for $500.00. Keep in mind this tv is in excellent condition. I would like input on wether this is a good deal or not. Thanks!
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post #13602 of 13642 Old 04-28-2016, 09:31 PM
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It's a daisy of a deal. The only thing it's equal is OLED.

Panasonic AX-200u / Optoma Graywolf 92" / Draper Luma 92"
Samsung 51F8500 Plasma / Panasonic P50ST60 Plasma / Vizio GV42LF LCD / Vizio VP322 Plasma
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post #13603 of 13642 Old 04-28-2016, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by GTIME View Post
Hello I have a opportunity to purchase a 50ST60 for $500.00. Keep in mind this tv is in excellent condition. I would like input on wether this is a good deal or not. Thanks!
I've never seen a used one that cheap here. Haven't seen very many though, 6-8 or so is all.
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post #13604 of 13642 Old 04-28-2016, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EscapeVelocity View Post
Im thinking about picking up a pen or 2 for this set as they are only $5 a peice brand new.

But then I thought, I really dont want to write on my plasma and mar the AR coatings.



What are the best 3D glasses for the ST60 out of curiosity? Not that I use 3D much. I have 2 pair that came with the set, that looks like most 3D glasses that came with HDTVs. Used once or twice then never used again >great condition.
I left this out last time, you need active shutter glasses.
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post #13605 of 13642 Old 04-29-2016, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by EscapeVelocity View Post
Id be interested in yours, too. I havent had much time with the ST60 yet, bear in mind.

The ST60 has better black levels. They are just there, they dont require tweaking to get them. The Samsung requires more tweaking to get them. And the issue with the white crush and needing to turn up the "backlight level" and contrast doesnt help.

The Samsung has a superior AR filter, though the ST60 is pretty good too. The Samsung also has higher light output, but the ST60 isnt bad in that department either.

The Samsung Smart Features are better and much more ergononomic to use. But I dont use either, I use Roku and Amazon Fire boxes. Samsung seems to have more processing power behind the Smart Features too, being very snappy. The Samsung has better integration with technology and connectivity.

Both have good ATSC tuners.


The ST60 is superior in a darkened room, but can handle a bright room. The Samsung with it's higher light output and superior AR filter is superior in a light polluted mess of a room (which I have it in, room with walls of windows on 3 sides) but still does very good at night there.

If I could only choose one, Id probably pick the ST60...because at the end of the day it's about picture quality and the black levels are just superior on the ST60 combined with it's still higher end for a plasma light output (2nd only to Samsung) and it's a better display (as opposed to gizmo wiztechery)

EDIT: The IR issue is neither here nor there. Both sets have variations in manufacturing and some units have to greater degrees than others in both models production runs. So not really an issue.
I've had both in my possession as well. Sold the ST60...still have the F8500. I actually had two ST60s and both had pretty horrible uniformity (which REALLY bugs me). The Pannys also seemed to develop short term IR more easily. But the contrast ratio IS roughly double that of the F8500 due to the superior black level and IMO the Panny had superior motion handling. I also saw more color breakup on the Panny (similar to single chip DLP RBE but nowhere near as bad).

Both sets have their strengths and weaknesses.
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post #13606 of 13642 Old 04-29-2016, 03:14 PM
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Well, my particular sets the Samsung has mild IR issues (I wouldnt play video games on it but other than that, dont concern myself with it too much)

My particular Panasonic ST60 has no noticeable IR.

Anyways, I lucky to own them both.

Panasonic AX-200u / Optoma Graywolf 92" / Draper Luma 92"
Samsung 51F8500 Plasma / Panasonic P50ST60 Plasma / Vizio GV42LF LCD / Vizio VP322 Plasma
Sony S790 BD / Panasonic BDT-220 / Roku 2 XS & Roku 2 (Ver. 3)
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post #13607 of 13642 Old 04-29-2016, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTIME View Post
Hello I have a opportunity to purchase a 50ST60 for $500.00. Keep in mind this tv is in excellent condition. I would like input on wether this is a good deal or not. Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by samijubal View Post
I've never seen a used one that cheap here. Haven't seen very many though, 6-8 or so is all.
Dang, I wonder how much my 60ST60 could go for? Thinking about going 4K.

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post #13608 of 13642 Old 05-11-2016, 11:08 AM
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Now using the Panasonic 50ST60 with a Yamaha YAS-103 soundbar.

Nice combo.

Panasonic AX-200u / Optoma Graywolf 92" / Draper Luma 92"
Samsung 51F8500 Plasma / Panasonic P50ST60 Plasma / Vizio GV42LF LCD / Vizio VP322 Plasma
Sony S790 BD / Panasonic BDT-220 / Roku 2 XS & Roku 2 (Ver. 3)
Oppo 983H Anchor Bay VRS / Panasonic S97 Faroudja Genesis / Oppo 970HD MediaTek
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post #13609 of 13642 Old 05-14-2016, 10:54 AM
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Hey all...I have the 65ST60 that I purchased back in July of 2013, it has been great, calibrated with either D-Nices' or another sources great settings can't really remember but picture looks great, it has around 3,500 hours on it and been wall mounted ever since. I know I can get several more years out of it but I would love to go 4k and especially OLED 4K, so I'm wondering how difficult would it be to sell it? What route is best to list it for sale?and What would be a reasonable price?

P.s. It has 2-years of extended warranty left on it.

Any input would be helpful, Thanks!
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post #13610 of 13642 Old 05-18-2016, 07:20 AM
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Hey all...I have the 65ST60 that I purchased back in July of 2013, it has been great, calibrated with either D-Nices' or another sources great settings can't really remember but picture looks great, it has around 3,500 hours on it and been wall mounted ever since. I know I can get several more years out of it but I would love to go 4k and especially OLED 4K, so I'm wondering how difficult would it be to sell it? What route is best to list it for sale?and What would be a reasonable price?
P.s. It has 2-years of extended warranty left on it. Any input would be helpful, Thanks!
The general population won't pay a fair price for a Plasma TV, but a knowledgeable enthusiast would. You should check Craigslist ads in various cities and states to see if other 65ST60's are for sale and what the owners are asking for them.

Do you still have the original box and all the packing foam? If not, shipping it is probably out of the question (they get broken a LOT even with the original box, and it's expensive to ship too). Local sale is always best, but we don't know where you are.

You should post a For Sale ad in this forum's Classifieds section, and make sure to say what city/state you're in. You could also sell it on Craigslist, and on Ebay for local sale only.

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post #13611 of 13642 Old 05-21-2016, 06:28 PM
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What kind of comb filter does the Panny ST60 have? Thanks!

Panasonic AX-200u / Optoma Graywolf 92" / Draper Luma 92"
Samsung 51F8500 Plasma / Panasonic P50ST60 Plasma / Vizio GV42LF LCD / Vizio VP322 Plasma
Sony S790 BD / Panasonic BDT-220 / Roku 2 XS & Roku 2 (Ver. 3)
Oppo 983H Anchor Bay VRS / Panasonic S97 Faroudja Genesis / Oppo 970HD MediaTek
Aiwa MX100 Multi-region VCR / JVC S7600 S-VHS
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post #13612 of 13642 Old 06-21-2016, 05:39 AM
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5 Blinking Lights

Hey guys,

I don't know if anybody is still around this thread but if so I would appreciate some thoughts.

I was out of the country for 8 months and the Panny sat around unused for 5 months or so, and then a friend used it sparingly for the final 3 months before our return.

I was a bit nervous when I fired it up, but it started, and my wife and I fell in love with the picture all over again. (After 8 months with a Vizio M series - not a bad TV in it's own right).

Our luck continued for a month but then I got the 5 blinking lights and the TV shut itself off. I unplugged it and let it sit for a day and restarted it. It worked and stayed on! I have followed this regime successfully for about a week now, but I am going to order a power board from the states and have a friend bring it down here.

Has anyone else had this problem and employed this "fix"?

Also, it is very hard to get this beast to a repair shop down here (I had to do it once before for a main board) so I am thinking about replacing the board myself. Anyone attempted this before? There are a couple tutorials from "Shop Jimmy" on the net for this but not specifically for the ST-60.

I am not ready to give up on this picture yet so I will do what I have to in order to keep the experience going for just a bit longer!
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post #13613 of 13642 Old 06-21-2016, 02:31 PM
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If it's still working fine, don't do anything. Once in a while the electronics (somewhere within) can get 'tripped up' and you need to unplug the set for a little bit, but there may not be anything wrong or that will cause future failure. Unless it happens again and/or some other problem shows up, I would strongly advise doing nothing and just enjoy the set.


It couldn't hurt to have the power board on hand though just in case you end up needing it.
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post #13614 of 13642 Old 06-21-2016, 03:04 PM
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If it's still working fine, don't do anything. Once in a while the electronics (somewhere within) can get 'tripped up' and you need to unplug the set for a little bit, but there may not be anything wrong or that will cause future failure. Unless it happens again and/or some other problem shows up, I would strongly advise doing nothing and just enjoy the set.


It couldn't hurt to have the power board on hand though just in case you end up needing it.
Thank you for your response. It is nice someone is still checking in on this thread.

Good advice. I probably will get the power board just to have around.
I LOVE THIS SET! Not ready to say goodbye yet.
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post #13615 of 13642 Old 06-21-2016, 03:10 PM
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Fwiw I am still subscribed here and love my 60ST60. Sorry, couldn't help with the tech issue though.

Sometimes, I see dead pixels...
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post #13616 of 13642 Old 06-21-2016, 11:35 PM
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I'm still here and our ST60 60" is still working fine. We never had a professionally calibrated. However, for me, the picture looks perfect.
We streamed The Big Lebowski from Amazon last night. The quality was much better than we get from Comcast. Even Netflix is not quite as good most of the time. I can't imagine any picture quality being any better than what we saw last night.

Side question: now that plasma is dead, what technology on the market would be considered the best available?
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post #13617 of 13642 Old 06-22-2016, 07:41 AM
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I'm still here and our ST60 60" is still working fine. We never had a professionally calibrated. However, for me, the picture looks perfect.
We streamed The Big Lebowski from Amazon last night. The quality was much better than we get from Comcast. Even Netflix is not quite as good most of the time. I can't imagine any picture quality being any better than what we saw last night.

Side question: now that plasma is dead, what technology on the market would be considered the best available?
I think fully realized HDR/4K is the next leap forward, but it will be several years, or more, until it is sorted, and there is sufficient content and affordable standardized media players to go with the display technology. I question how quickly widespread streaming capability will come along to support HDR so it will probably be available only in disk form (like blu-ray/HD DVD was initially the only source for true HD). I know some of this stuff is available now, and relatively affordable, but the standards and technology are still in development. What you buy now may disappoint in several years.

Not to mention the price tag, which is beyond a poor slob like me. I was always an early adopter but I am older, wiser and more frugal these days. So we all hope our ST60s will hold up for awhile! I believe that these sets are still the best picture quality available at this time (as well as the VT & ZT) for an affordable price. I have not, however, been able to check out the new Vizio M & P series.
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post #13618 of 13642 Old 06-22-2016, 10:52 AM
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side question: Now that plasma is dead, what technology on the market would be considered the best available?
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post #13619 of 13642 Old 06-25-2016, 08:09 PM
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Hello forum. Just bought a used P50ST60 so that I can give my P50S60 to my brother. This ST60 was calibrated in detail 2.5 years ago and supposedly has 3000 hours. All my viewing is via HTPC, mainly on VLC and the Win10 Netflix app.
My question is about the RGB range (0-255, 16-235). I can set the Radeon graphics to output RGB full, RGB limited, or YCbCr; and of course the TV can be set to RGB 0-255 or 16-235.
What would you do, and why? And most importantly, how does your choice affect my calibration? (for example, will brightness and contrast need readjustment, or is the entire calibration thrown off?)
Thanks and may our plasmas live long and phosphor.
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post #13620 of 13642 Old 06-26-2016, 05:23 AM
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Hello forum. Just bought a used P50ST60 so that I can give my P50S60 to my brother. This ST60 was calibrated in detail 2.5 years ago and supposedly has 3000 hours. All my viewing is via HTPC, mainly on VLC and the Win10 Netflix app.
My question is about the RGB range (0-255, 16-235). I can set the Radeon graphics to output RGB full, RGB limited, or YCbCr; and of course the TV can be set to RGB 0-255 or 16-235.
What would you do, and why? And most importantly, how does your choice affect my calibration? (for example, will brightness and contrast need readjustment, or is the entire calibration thrown off?)
Thanks and may our plasmas live long and phosphor.

Yes, depending on which setting you use, you'll have to re-adjust 'brightness' (i.e. black level) and color saturation.


Blu-ray discs are mastered 16-235. As far as the best results, you'll have to experiment. I have the S60 and get the best results sending RGB using '1080p direct' mode. I experimented using 0-255, as my Blu-ray player can output it, but I didn't seem to quite be able to get results I liked.


BTW, how much better is the ST60 vs. the S60 in your view?
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