Official Panasonic S60 Series Discussion Thread - Page 124 - AVS Forum
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post #3691 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by greenland View Post

Pro Setting: Panel Brightness High(It provides the best Contrast and Black Level. You can try it with Mid Setting, but do not use the low setting)

Panel brightness High causes excessive dithering especially noticeable in dark scenes. I'd stick to Mid personally. The Vivid preset uses Panel Brightness High if that tells you anything. tongue.gif

Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings
Panasonic 50" S60 calibrated settings
HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT660 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60
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post #3692 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by greenland View Post

It does not cause its on my set, but of course no two sets are manufactured precisely the same.

Maybe the 42" model doesn't display this behavior. For me it's very very noticeable and re-produceable on my 50". You turn panel brightness to High while looking at say the AVS HD709 black clipping pattern (you can even pause the pattern while the gray/black steps above 17 are flashing), and you see the steps instantly get noisier than when it's at Mid panel brightness.

Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings
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HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT660 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60
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post #3693 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 10:26 AM
 
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Originally Posted by WaveBoy View Post

i'll finally be getting a 55" Panasonic S60 within the next couple of weeks before BestBuy's sale ends on Sept 19th. But i've got to say, for the most part i'm just not a big horn dog for HD when it comes to film...Call me crazy, but I feel like it just doesn't really add much nor is the difference as mind blowing as people make it out to be Vs watching bluray in 480i via component cables on a good Sony CRT SDTV. Bluray looks clear enough on my CRT, i don't need the higher res. Plus, 1080HD isn't stable on my S30... There's still some 'slight' blurring going on and i find it a little distracting, especially when being so used to a CRT.

My mid 2000 entry 27" Sony Wega trinitron using component cables delivers one phenomenal picture....Honestly, i've done comparisons between my 60" 1080p plasma and my CRT and i honestly don't even need 1080HD OR progressivescan. 480i through component cables be it DVD or bluray looks absolutely spectacular on my CRT and it's perfect motion handling, accurate color, fantastic blacks, no ABL, no crazy video noise and NO white clipping make for one enjoyable film experience. The downside is that the screen is tiny, but that's fine. It's perfect for SD(AND HD) content, and that's exactly why i have it in the first place, + for retro gaming purposes. wink.gif

In the end, I'll just have to adjust to the weaker motion handling and agressive ABL of the S60 for Bluray and Wii U content. Probably won't watch too many DVD's on this bad boy, knowing that they'll probably look blown up and soft just as they do on my S30. tongue.gif Anyways! looking forward to the S60 as it's going to be a giant leap over my severely flawed S30, never let an S30 in your home guys, you've been warned! lol

Wow, you're comparing a 27" CRT to a 60" plasma ? If you can't see the advantage of HD it's either because you have below average sight, or it's because you're comparing a 27" to a 60" from the same viewing distance.

Sure, sub 30" CRT's look good from 8ft away, but a 60" SD CRT would look like crap anywhere within 15ft.

Also, it may also be because you're comparing it to a low end Plasma. If you were comparing to say an ST60, or a mid to upper range LED/LCD and you still couldn't see a difference, then you should be declared legally blind.
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post #3694 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 10:26 AM
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There is too much blue in Normal color temp. I thought it looked good for a while, then tried Warm1 and loved it. That is the happy medium as I still can't adjust to Warm2.
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post #3695 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 11:02 AM
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Just picked up the S64 last night and can't wait for football. biggrin.gif

I think I'll hold off on video games for the next week and stick to Netflix TV shows and slides overnight. I also picked up the Disney WOW on DVD from eBay for $10, so that will be nice.

Bottom line, this thread and forum are super ******* helpful. smile.gif
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post #3696 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 11:40 AM
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Bump from post 3558


Costco ***Inventory Update***

One week ago Costco on-line finally had inventory levels back with 130 units of the Panasonic TC-65PS64. Three days later that number had dropped to 39 (yes the sales of this TV have been very strong the previous three days).

History of recent inventory that I've been tracking:

On-line inventory went back up to 119 units (they added 80 more to their inventory).

EDIT: Just changed to 121 units in-stock. Edited - 08/25/2013 at 10:37 am

EDIT: Now 109 units in-stock. Edited - 08/26/2013at 3:46 pm

EDIT: Now 98 units in-stock. Edited - 08/27/2013 at 9:05 am

EDIT: Now 73 units in-stock. Edited - 08/28/2013 10:52 am

EDIT: Back up to 82 units. Edited - 08/28/2013 12:42 pm

EDIT: Now 53 units in-stock. Edited - 08/29/2013 8:18 am

EDIT: Now 25 units in-stock. Edited - 08/30/2013 8:32 am

EDIT: 3 hours later Costco now has 78 units in-stock (just added 50+units). Edited - 08/30/2013 11:30 am

EDIT: Now 61 units in-stock. Edited - 08/31/2013 2:51 am

EDIT: Now 38 units in-stock. Edited – 09/01/2013 7:45 am

EDIT: 12 hours later: Only 9 units in-stock.

EDIT: There were 3 this morning, Now SOLD OUT. Edited - 09/02/2013 12:23 pm


EDIT: Now 6 units back in stock.
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post #3697 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 11:46 AM
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Well I gave warm1 a fair shot and the experiment is over as I'm going back to warm2. The whites looked great of course and the blue sky looked amazing instead of dull, but the blue was just too much. I must say that fairchilds latest setting is by far the best and I can't wait until he touches it up. Fairchild: you said it's harder to calibrate the television on warm1 instead of warm2 but would you ever consider giving that a shot, or is warm2 always the way to go? Also, if I put the contrast to 85 like you've always had (I have about 500 hours in so far) would that affect the picture quality or would it just be more bright and dull the whites a bit? I'm a noob when it comes to calibration.

I just got my 6500k bias lights from cinemaquestinc which is the best for bias lighting. I'll install it today and give you my impressions in 3-4 days or so. My room is completely dark and it will be nice to help with the eye strain a bit and it should give the picture a little pop. I know the light output has to be less than 10% of the brightest white on the television but I have no way of testing that but even if it's not 100% accurate it should help. It's my first venture into bias lighting and I'm excited. $75 is steep, but it comes with an extra bulb and 100% accurate 6500k which is another good reason to go back to warm2.
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post #3698 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by xx2000xx View Post

Well I gave warm1 a fair shot and the experiment is over as I'm going back to warm2. The whites looked great of course and the blue sky looked amazing instead of dull, but the blue was just too much. I must say that fairchilds latest setting is by far the best and I can't wait until he touches it up. Fairchild: you said it's harder to calibrate the television on warm1 instead of warm2 but would you ever consider giving that a shot, or is warm2 always the way to go? Also, if I put the contrast to 85 like you've always had (I have about 500 hours in so far) would that affect the picture quality or would it just be more bright and dull the whites a bit? I'm a noob when it comes to calibration.

It'll throw off the calibration a bit since changing the Contrast will affect the luminance that the set puts out (light output) and that will in effect cause the colors to be off and the grayscale adjustments. I changed it back to 80 as I also like to watch in a dark room and wanted to lower the light output a bit.

Edit: I'm going to do a new calibration based on the GCD 10% window patterns to make use of the new color-checker feature that Zoyd just added to HCFR. So the settings will change from what I have now, since I'll be going from the Mascior 4% window patterns with the 75%/75% color patterns to the GCD 10% window patterns with the 100%/100% color patterns. I'm also going to use my colorimeter profiled off my spectrometer to get a more accurate idea of what is actually happening at the low-end of the grayscale. (since the spectrometer doesn't produce accurate and repeatable readings at low light levels)

Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings
Panasonic 50" S60 calibrated settings
HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT660 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60
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post #3699 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 12:34 PM
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First let me thank all who responded to my Red push issue and screen photos.

After further reflection I now realize that taking accurate screen photos is a daunting task since it’s important to get the right camera White Balance to accurately portray screen color.
I hadn’t explored this WB Camera setting issue in the photos I had uploaded.
I'm now exploring different camera WB settings to more accurately resemble actual screen images and I will use better Facial image content to hopefully make a better presentation of MY issues and desires.

The main point I can say at this point is that screen PQ is a subjective issue and a purely technical approach doesn’t take into account an individual’s vision subjectivity and desires.
In my uploaded pictures, the S64 Facial image looks very purplish and the CRT Facial looks more normal…..to ME!

So bottom line what I’m asking is what kind of tweaking can I do to get Facial color to have less Red, more yellow/peach which is more pleasing to me.

In my next post I will also show screen pix on my LCD PC monitor, which seems to have good color rendition.


Greenland: I'll try your settings, thanks.
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post #3700 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 12:51 PM
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I tried doing a Print Screen (using keyboard PrtScrn key) of a DVD image on my LCD Monitor. I opened the file in MS Paint and the image looked like an exact color copy of the original screen.
I then saved the image file. When I opened that file the image showed a totally black screen image!
Can anyone explain why this happened and is it possible to successfully save and recall a PrtScrn image?
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post #3701 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

It'll throw off the calibration a bit since changing the Contrast will affect the luminance that the set puts out (light output) and that will in effect cause the colors to be off and the grayscale adjustments. I changed it back to 80 as I also like to watch in a dark room and wanted to lower the light output a bit.

Edit: I'm going to do a new calibration based on the GCD 10% window patterns to make use of the new color-checker feature that Zoyd just added to HCFR. So the settings will change from what I have now, since I'll be going from the Mascior 4% window patterns with the 75%/75% color patterns to the GCD 10% window patterns with the 100%/100% color patterns. I'm also going to use my colorimeter profiled off my spectrometer to get a more accurate idea of what is actually happening at the low-end of the grayscale. (since the spectrometer doesn't produce accurate and repeatable readings at low light levels)

Out of curiosity, how long does it take to do your calibrations?

Also, I talked about bias lighting. I'm in no way going to pay or do my own calibration, but with bias lighting would that actually make my settings out of sync? I know it's strict to be under 10% of the brightest white, which I think they say that to not screw up the settings but I'm curious of you know about bias lighting at all with calibration.
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post #3702 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fibonacci3 View Post

First let me thank all who responded to my Red push issue and screen photos.

After further reflection I now realize that taking accurate screen photos is a daunting task since it’s important to get the right camera White Balance to accurately portray screen color.
I hadn’t explored this WB Camera setting issue in the photos I had uploaded.
I'm now exploring different camera WB settings to more accurately resemble actual screen images and I will use better Facial image content to hopefully make a better presentation of MY issues and desires.

The main point I can say at this point is that screen PQ is a subjective issue and a purely technical approach doesn’t take into account an individual’s vision subjectivity and desires.
In my uploaded pictures, the S64 Facial image looks very purplish and the CRT Facial looks more normal…..to ME!

So bottom line what I’m asking is what kind of tweaking can I do to get Facial color to have less Red, more yellow/peach which is more pleasing to me.

In my next post I will also show screen pix on my LCD PC monitor, which seems to have good color rendition.


Greenland: I'll try your settings, thanks.

Originally Posted by fibonacci3 View Post

"Again my settings are definitely not neutral," I agree with your statement after trying your settings. However I'm looking for a more neutral setting that would give good,accurate facial tones without the Red bias.
After trying many posted settings , the best I've found so far to give pretty good facial skin tones with minimal red bias is this set which is a slightly tweaked version of Fairchild's latest (7.27.13).

Settings:
· o Cinema mode
· o contrast 85
· o brightness -2
· o color 44
· o tint 9
· o sharpness 0
· o warm 1,2
· o vivid off
· o cats off
· o videoNR off
· o mpegNR off

Pro settings
o Panel Brightness Mid
o AGC 0
o Black extension 0
o Color gamut normal

W/B detail
o high R -4
o high G 0
o High B 1
o low R 7
o Low G 0
o low B -4

Color Detail
o Red hue 2
o Red saturaion 0
o Red luminance 2
o Green hue 0
o Green saturation 0
o Green luminance -4
o Blue hue 0
o blue saturation 0
o Blue luminance 7

Gamma 2.2, 2.4

Advanced picture

HDMI content type Off
HDMI range Nonstandard
Black Level Light.

I show 2 settings for color temp. and gamma...the choice depends on OTA broadcast content/resolution.
I don't understand why it's so difficult to neutralize the red bias without severely degrading picture quality.


I used that for a few weeks and if you don't want the red tint that is the best I've come across. It worked for a while, and even used warm 1 (you need to bump up the color 4 notches). You won't see red blotches on faces and the red is subdued and I got used to warm1. But the blue bias and not being 6500k bugged me. With the warm1 the whites are actually white and the blue sky is blue, but it was just too much. What you need to do is plug those settings in on both cinema and custom. Now with custom it's not the same, so you need to drop the color down 3-4 notches (every tv is different) and go back and forth between the 2 settings so they look 90% the same. Keep the custom mode then plug in the latest fairchild settings on cinema and then compare the two. I have 500 hours in now unlike his 1400 hours. I found that his latest settings weren't as dull for the red, but he made a point to kill the red bias that was going on. It's all about panel age and different sets, to plug in settings from somebody else is kind of silly as they talked about that at length in the general forum with this years Panasonic.

Again every panel is different, but the past few days people are talking about how good cnet settings are for the TV? For me, wow, it was horrible and fairchild's settings are 40x better. I never liked his earlier settings though, but I think he is on the right track right now. Maybe because he's doing tweaks and my panel is now more aged. My thumbs have literally hurt by switching to custom/cinema and plugging in different settings non-stop but it's just a never ending conquest to get your TV great without paying a massive amount for calibration.

TV's are different and we might be all rubes because fairchild didn't do the 100 break-in with the slides like most of us have done, so because of that his settings are probably off than ours as there is no correct way of doing it unless it's professorially calibrated.
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post #3703 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by xx2000xx View Post

Out of curiosity, how long does it take to do your calibrations?

Also, I talked about bias lighting. I'm in now way going to pay or do my own calibration, but with bias lighting would that actually make my settings out of sync? I know it's strict to be under 10% of the brightest white, which I think they say that to not screw up the settings but I'm curious of you know about bias lighting at all with calibration.

Calibrations can vary on goals, if just a touch-up can take 20-30, if doing from scratch like I just did like an hour or two. As for bias lighting, generally you don't want to use crazy colors and want to use as neutral as a white as you can. I think it's actually recommended to use a light which is as close as possible to your calibration goal. So if you are calibrating to D65 then you want a 6500k bias lighting option.

Here's my latest calibration, it's looking hella good to my eyes. I threw some of my reference content and dare I say it's looking like the best work I've done on this set. This coupled with lots of experience and the new HCFR, it is looking very good. I didn't do a saturation run, since it appears to be bugged, but I did do a 24-pt color checker and it looks good. My green is a bit off on the CIE chart, but I doubt that will be visible with real content. Here you go:







Quote:
MadVR used at 0-255, rgb full pixel 0-255 with AMD 7870, nonstandard in HDMI2
gs 1.06 dE, gamma 2.23, colors 0.85 dE, color checker 1.16 dE, 32 fTL at 100 IRE

Picture Mode : Cinema
o Contrast : 80
o Brightness : -1
o Color : 46
o Tint : 0
o Sharpness : 0
o Color Temp : Warm2
o Vivid color : Off
o C.A.T.S. : Off
o Video NR : Off
o MPEG NR : Off

* Pro Settings
o Panel brightness : Mid
o AGC : 0
o Black extension : 0
o Color gamut : Normal

* W/B detail adjustment
o W/B high R : 0
o W/B high G : 0
o W/B high B : -1
o W/B low R : 5
o W/B low G : 0
o W/B low B : -3

* Color detail adjustment
o Red Hue : -3
o Red saturation : -2
o Red luminance : 0
o Green Hue : 0
o Green saturation : 0
o Green luminance : -4
o Blue Hue : 1
o Blue saturation : 2
o Blue luminance : 2

* Gamma detail adjustment
o Gamma : 2.4

* Advanced picture
o 1080p pixel direct : Off
o HDMI content type : Off
o HDMI/DVI RGB range : Nonstandard when using HTPC and Standard for Cable box
o Black level : Light

* Screen settings
o Screen format : Full
o Overscan : Off
o H size : Size 1
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post #3704 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 03:36 PM
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Just to be clear, changing the settings to match Fairchilds' settings would be calibrating my TV, right? Or is calibration a separate process that needs to be done.
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post #3705 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcorrie1121 View Post

Just to be clear, changing the settings to match Fairchilds' settings would be calibrating my TV, right? Or is calibration a separate process that needs to be done.

Its a form of calibrating. Professional calibration uses hardware and software to measure the TV and give the calibrator the info they need to change the settings.

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post #3706 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mcorrie1121 View Post

Just to be clear, changing the settings to match Fairchilds' settings would be calibrating my TV, right? Or is calibration a separate process that needs to be done.

No, copying settings is not a calibration. Your set could have variance in it and would make the calibration not be as accurate as the set that was actually calibrated with a meter + software + patterns. There is no harm in trying settings though and alot of people are happy using other's settings.
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post #3707 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

Calibrations can vary on goals, if just a touch-up can take 20-30, if doing from scratch like I just did like an hour or two. As for bias lighting, generally you don't want to use crazy colors and want to use as neutral as a white as you can. I think it's actually recommended to use a light which is as close as possible to your calibration goal. So if you are calibrating to D65 then you want a 6500k bias lighting option.

Here's my latest calibration, it's looking hella good to my eyes. I through some of my reference content and dare I say it's looking like the best work I've done on this set. This coupled with lots of experience and the new HCFR, it is looking very good. I didn't do a saturation run, since it appears to be bugged, but I did do a 24-pt color checker and it looks good. My green is a bit off on the CIE chart, but I doubt that will be visible with real content. Here you go:







The past few televisions I did the d-nice settings, but he didn't do it for this batch and you step up to the plate. Thank you for all your hard work. You would know better than 95% of the ppl, if you connect to the net on the TV (maybe it changed in the past 3 days) but there was no firmware update. However I hit the site and did the firmware upgrade, and it's for stability? Did you ever do research on what they actually did with the firmware update as they didn't provide any information. Stability seems crucial, yes I have the pops like a mofo like other ppl talk about, but I'm used to it by now. After 20 min of it shutting off I'll get a boom even, but no biggie. I had the 2010 model 50 inch and that was great.

For people who are talking about lcd/led, come on now, there is no debate, once you have your TV set up plasma it's by far the best. And there is no debate about that.
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post #3708 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xx2000xx View Post

The past few televisions I did the d-nice settings, but he didn't do it for this batch and you step up to the plate. Thank you for all your hard work. You would know better than 95% of the ppl, if you connect to the net on the TV (maybe it changed in the past 3 days) but there was no firmware update. However I hit the site and did the firmware upgrade, and it's for stability? Did you ever do research on what they actually did with the firmware update as they didn't provide any information. Stability seems crucial, yes I have the pops like a mofo like other ppl talk about, but I'm used to it by now. After 20 min of it shutting off I'll get a boom even, but no biggie. I had the 2010 model 50 inch and that was great.

For people who are talking about lcd/led, come on now, there is no debate, once you have your TV set up plasma it's by far the best. And there is no debate about that.

There is always a debate. Plasma will be beaten also. The best TV is the one YOU like. wink.gif

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post #3709 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 04:14 PM
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There is always a debate. Plasma will be beaten also. The best TV is the one YOU like. wink.gif

Mty 50 inch 2008 was great then, with d-nice settings, it was just plug the settings and forget it. It seemed cool because you had to go to the service menu to actually hit the hard core settings also.

With this set, it did improve, better pq, but the tv pops like a mofo. I'll take the pops with the higher pq than my 2010 modle. Yes it's annoying and the red plush is so high on this, but we will figure it out.
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post #3710 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by greenland View Post

I would suggest that you not bother posting pictures. They will not help at all, because unless everyone is looking at them with perfectly accurate monitors, they will not be viewing a realistic view of what you are seeing in person.

Greenland, your suggestion is very profound and makes me realize I'm spinning my wheels trying to get accurate screen photos when the subject is so vaiable both on my end and the forum members end depending on individual vision variations and monitor variations. So it seems like almost a hopeless task of trying to communicate the intricacies of color management...even with pictures. So what does one do to achieve PQ satisfaction? We start off from some middling calibration and then tweak from there. The problem I have is that there are too many parameters under the pro settings to be able to do a parametric analysis due to the large number of trials to check all combinations and permutations.
And panels keep aging, calibrations keep getting updated. Who ever thought that getting a plasma TV would lead to so much effort for personal viewing satisfaction.

Futuristicallly what we need is technology that automatically reads our brain and vision and then adjusts the TV parameters to give optimum viewer satisfaction.


However I have only 3 weeks left to get personal satisfactory PQ before my return deadline. My only other thought is I wonder if I have a panel that is 'bad' color wise...and should I buy another and see if there is any difference?
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post #3711 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by fibonacci3 View Post


Greenland, your suggestion is very profound and makes me realize I'm spinning my wheels trying to get accurate screen photos when the subject is so vaiable both on my end and the forum members end depending on individual vision variations and monitor variations. So it seems like almost a hopeless task of trying to communicate the intricacies of color management...even with pictures. So what does one do to achieve PQ satisfaction? We start off from some middling calibration and then tweak from there. The problem I have is that there are too many parameters under the pro settings to be able to do a parametric analysis due to the large number of trials to check all combinations and permutations.
And panels keep aging, calibrations keep getting updated. Who ever thought that getting a plasma TV would lead to so much effort for personal viewing satisfaction.

Futuristicallly what we need is technology that automatically reads our brain and vision and then adjusts the TV parameters to give optimum viewer satisfaction.


However I have only 3 weeks left to get personal satisfactory PQ before my return deadline. My only other thought is I wonder if I have a panel that is 'bad' color wise...and should I buy another and see if there is any difference?

That is plenty of time left for us to help you find some settings that look good in your eyes. Plug in the ones I posted, and let them stay on your TV for a day or so, just to become accustomed to them. Watch them during the daytime, and also at night with no lights on. Look at some of your favorite Blu-ray movies also, and watch some golf and baseball tomorrow to evaluate if the settings look fairly close to natural, when people are not wearing makeup and using studio lighting tricks etc.

One step at a time. Keep it simple. Good luck.smile.gif
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post #3712 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by WaTaGuMp View Post

There has to be some reason the ST60 is the best TV cnet has ever tested, FOR NOW. biggrin.gif
You seem to have left out the "for the money" bit. rolleyes.gif
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post #3713 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mcorrie1121 View Post

Just to be clear, changing the settings to match Fairchilds' settings would be calibrating my TV, right? Or is calibration a separate process that needs to be done.
It's an amateur calibration on his set. Your set and room are different. His settings may improve the PQ on your set, but that doesn't mean that your set has been calibrated.
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post #3714 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 06:16 PM
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Sam's dropped the price on the 65S64 this week, a week too late for me to get the credit for the difference...$130! It's now $1159!

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post #3715 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by fibonacci3 View Post


Greenland, your suggestion is very profound and makes me realize I'm spinning my wheels trying to get accurate screen photos when the subject is so vaiable both on my end and the forum members end depending on individual vision variations and monitor variations. So it seems like almost a hopeless task of trying to communicate the intricacies of color management...even with pictures. So what does one do to achieve PQ satisfaction? We start off from some middling calibration and then tweak from there. The problem I have is that there are too many parameters under the pro settings to be able to do a parametric analysis due to the large number of trials to check all combinations and permutations.
And panels keep aging, calibrations keep getting updated. Who ever thought that getting a plasma TV would lead to so much effort for personal viewing satisfaction.

Futuristicallly what we need is technology that automatically reads our brain and vision and then adjusts the TV parameters to give optimum viewer satisfaction.


However I have only 3 weeks left to get personal satisfactory PQ before my return deadline. My only other thought is I wonder if I have a panel that is 'bad' color wise...and should I buy another and see if there is any difference?

Honestly, if you cannot get the look you so desire from playing around with the colour settings in the pro menu then just plug in fairchild, cnet, or who ever settings you like, adjust the saturation and colour temperature to your preference, and then just let yourself get used to it.

You are used to the way your CRT looks, this is a different tv, using a different technology, it will take some time to get used to. When I first got the set, I plugged in Fairchilds settings and hated the look. It was too dim, too warm, and not saturated enough. But i told myself that this is the way it is generally supposed to look, so I forced myself to keep them. Now I love them, turning it to my old settings just looks ridiculous.

Time heals all wounds as they say smile.gif
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post #3716 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 08:24 PM
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Thanks for the calibration info, guys!

One more question: Is there a max length of time I should have my TV on, even if none of the images are static? Should I rest it every so often?

The room is kept cool so overheating isn't a worry.
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post #3717 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcorrie1121 View Post

Thanks for the calibration info, guys!

One more question: Is there a max length of time I should have my TV on, even if none of the images are static? Should I rest it every so often?

The room is kept cool so overheating isn't a worry.
No need to rest it that Im aware of. I ran mine for 100 hrs straight with no problems.

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post #3718 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by xenon9887 View Post

Time heals all wounds as they say smile.gif
I think that in your case it's education that sets you free. biggrin.gif
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post #3719 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcorrie1121 View Post

Thanks for the calibration info, guys!

One more question: Is there a max length of time I should have my TV on, even if none of the images are static? Should I rest it every so often?

The room is kept cool so overheating isn't a worry.
No need to rest it that Im aware of. I ran mine for 100 hrs straight with no problems.
I agree. Today's TVs are computers from an electronic point of view. Have you ever heard of resting a server farm?

All electronics are most vulnerable at power on. The more power cycles, the more risk. But, I turn my set off when it's not in use. Oh, I can't turn it on any more. Last Friday afternoon I turned it on, and got nothing blue LED diagnostic lights blinking. eek.gif

The extended warranty company authorized replacing the main board today. My personal opinion is that if I had used the Kuro feature to not display the signal (saving phosphor), but left the set on, it would still be working. On the other hand, I would have paid for and waisted a lot of electricity. It's a complicated world out there. wink.gif

Turn it off when you're not using it, and watch it as long as you can keep your eyes open.

Actually, all most all the time except for some NFL Sundays, our set was on only one time a day.
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post #3720 of 7199 Old 08-30-2013, 09:47 PM
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