Official Panasonic S60 Series Discussion Thread - Page 251 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #7501 of 7525 Old 11-12-2015, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mailiang View Post


24 hz setting on a TV? The S60 has a 60 and 48 hz setting. I have my BD player set to native (24p), which allows the set do the processing. In my particular case, this renders the best results.

Ian
It's 48 Hz. Whatever. I was at work and couldn't remember. It's the setting that is not 60 Hz.
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post #7502 of 7525 Old 11-12-2015, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToonMasterTim View Post
It's 48 Hz. Whatever. I was at work and couldn't remember. It's the setting that is not 60 Hz.
Most people find that the 48hz setting produces too much flicker.

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post #7503 of 7525 Old 11-13-2015, 03:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mailiang View Post
Most people find that the 48hz setting produces too much flicker.

Ian
I know. That's what I said. But, I don't mind it. And even my wife has never mentioned it, so I suspect it doesn't bother her either.
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post #7504 of 7525 Old 11-26-2015, 09:37 PM
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Hi All,

I'm new here and not sure if it is best to start my own thread, but I have a P55S60 and it's been working great up until a week ago. A vertical black bar appeared on the very left side about 4 inches wide with a few mulitcolored vertical lines of that are very thin - close to a single pixel wide. Based on my internet Googling and a bit of reading, I took the TV apart on the off chance it was loose connectors on the C3 board. I loosened and cleaned out the connectors and a bit of dust in the housing.

Attached are pics of it's regular operation showing the symptoms (black vertical bar) as well as what it looks like if I unplugged two of the C3 boards ribbon connectors.

So, my question: Is it the panel or the C3 (or any other board)?
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post #7505 of 7525 Old 12-17-2015, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mailiang View Post
Most people find that the 48hz setting produces too much flicker.

Ian
Call me crazy, but one of the ways I can tell the brightness/contrast is calibrated properly is that the flicker almost disappears. It's there, but almost not noticeable, and not distracting the way it is otherwise.
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post #7506 of 7525 Old 12-18-2015, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceej64 View Post
Call me crazy, but one of the ways I can tell the brightness/contrast is calibrated properly is that the flicker almost disappears. It's there, but almost not noticeable, and not distracting the way it is otherwise.
David Katzmier, ISF calibrator and Senior editor of CNET, reviewed a well calibrated S60. His comments:
Quote:
Video processing: The S60 showed a couple of flaws in this category. Most importantly, unlike the ST60 it is incapable of correctly reproducing the correct film cadence of 1080p/24 sources when set to its standard (60Hz) mode. Instead, the pan over the Intrepid from "I Am Legend" (my standard cadence test) appeared relatively halting and choppy, compared with the smoother -- yet not too smooth -- look of the ST60 and other sets that handled film correctly. I tried the 48Hz mode but as usual it flickered too much for me to tolerate. Since those are the only two modes available, you have to choose between choppy motion and flicker. I'd choose the former every time.
Personally, I haven't noticed any significant judder on my S60, but regardless of which settings I have used, including those in the Cinema mode, which are similar to David's, I have to agree with his assessment when it comes to flicker. I believe that source material has more impact on these anomalies, then small differences in calibration.

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Last edited by mailiang; 12-18-2015 at 01:27 PM. Reason: Typo
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post #7507 of 7525 Old 01-04-2016, 01:55 PM
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TV crapped out. 65 inch. Square Trade is reimbursing me full price. Is this thing worth anything or worth saving or should I just throw it in the garbage.
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post #7508 of 7525 Old 01-05-2016, 08:27 AM
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TV crapped out. 65 inch. Square Trade is reimbursing me full price. Is this thing worth anything or worth saving or should I just throw it in the garbage.

Probably $300 in parts if you have the time and storage.

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post #7509 of 7525 Old 01-05-2016, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by MJ DOOM View Post
TV crapped out. 65 inch. Square Trade is reimbursing me full price. Is this thing worth anything or worth saving or should I just throw it in the garbage.

I would definitely get it repaired if possible. Plasmas are no longer being made, and the amount you'll have to spend for comparable picture quality is several thousand at least.
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post #7510 of 7525 Old 01-05-2016, 01:05 PM
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I would definitely get it repaired if possible. Plasmas are no longer being made, and the amount you'll have to spend for comparable picture quality is several thousand at least.
Well, if it's just the board, yeah that could be replaced likely, but if it's the panel...you're telling me you'd pay to have the panel replaced which certainly would be same as the original TV price.

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post #7511 of 7525 Old 01-05-2016, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Cravit8 View Post
Well, if it's just the board, yeah that could be replaced likely, but if it's the panel...you're telling me you'd pay to have the panel replaced which certainly would be same as the original TV price.

I probably would, yes. This set is just that good. It probably is just a board or perhaps even a faulty connection somewhere (if you're lucky).
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post #7512 of 7525 Old 01-05-2016, 02:27 PM
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I probably would, yes. This set is just that good. It probably is just a board or perhaps even a faulty connection somewhere (if you're lucky).
Absolutely could be a faulty connection, extremely rare, but possible, more so if someone lives in colder weather. I'll always be surprised at how a device can fault from a connection that seemed fine for years.

Unless there was one nearby that I could pickup, I wouldn't replace the panel though, but that's just me.
I'm not going to search out of curiosity but I would be extremely surprised to even find one available. Panasonic isn't stocking them as far as I know.

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post #7513 of 7525 Old 01-05-2016, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Cravit8 View Post
Absolutely could be a faulty connection, extremely rare, but possible, more so if someone lives in colder weather. I'll always be surprised at how a device can fault from a connection that seemed fine for years.

Unless there was one nearby that I could pickup, I wouldn't replace the panel though, but that's just me.
I'm not going to search out of curiosity but I would be extremely surprised to even find one available. Panasonic isn't stocking them as far as I know.
If it's the panel, you're out of luck. You may want to have a tech look at the set.

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post #7514 of 7525 Old 01-05-2016, 04:55 PM
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Yes, if it's the panel you may be out of luck. It probably isn't the panel though, and might only be a simple fix.
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post #7515 of 7525 Old 01-05-2016, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravit8 View Post
Absolutely could be a faulty connection, extremely rare, but possible, more so if someone lives in colder weather. I'll always be surprised at how a device can fault from a connection that seemed fine for years.

Unless there was one nearby that I could pickup, I wouldn't replace the panel though, but that's just me.
I'm not going to search out of curiosity but I would be extremely surprised to even find one available. Panasonic isn't stocking them as far as I know.
The TV is in my basement, gets cold down there with the vents closed. Could be a connection fault or the panel. What would I check if its a connection fault?

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post #7516 of 7525 Old 01-05-2016, 08:08 PM
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I recently had a lightning strike near me/power surge that killed my antenna input and Ethernet/wireless connection. HDMI still works. Last year about this time my daughter cracked the screen, so I guess it's time to replace my 50". I've been holding out for an reasonably priced HDR set.
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post #7517 of 7525 Old 01-06-2016, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MJ DOOM View Post
The TV is in my basement, gets cold down there with the vents closed. Could be a connection fault or the panel. What would I check if its a connection fault?
Heat has much more impact on electronics then cold. Unless your basement is very damp, the cooler temperatures shouldn't even be an issue. A bad or lose cable or faulty board can also be the cause of your problem. IMO, since you received re-reimbursement, it pays to at least have a qualified tech to check out.

Ian
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post #7518 of 7525 Old 01-06-2016, 12:28 PM
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The TV is in my basement, gets cold down there with the vents closed. Could be a connection fault or the panel. What would I check if its a connection fault?
I don't disagree with Ian on about the heat part, but coldness makes things contract, so if 2 connections are not inserted fully, the 2 wires contracting back could be enough to remove that copper to copper connection.

That really is a long shot. Open the case and give it a visual inspection. If you don't see something, than a capacitor blew, a board went out, or the panel is broken.

I can't believe I didn't pay for the square trade warranty for mine, stupid younger me.

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post #7519 of 7525 Old 01-24-2016, 05:05 PM
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I just bought an indoor antenna that is just a coax, was wondering if there was a way to get the audio to my AVR. Can't seem to figure it out...I'm not seeing any options on which output to use. Currently have an HDMI on HDMI2.

I thin I figured it out, using the digital audio out option. Just not sure if I'm going to be able to get to it since my TV is mounted...bah.

Turn it up!

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post #7520 of 7525 Old 01-24-2016, 05:11 PM
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I just bought an indoor antenna that is just a coax, was wondering if there was a way to get the audio to my AVR. Can't seem to figure it out...I'm not seeing any options on which output to use. Currently have an HDMI on HDMI2.

Optical out of the tv to optical in of the AVR. That should get you sound.


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post #7521 of 7525 Old 01-24-2016, 08:28 PM
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Optical out of the tv to optical in of the AVR. That should get you sound.


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Yep, I was able to get to it. Thank you

Turn it up!
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post #7522 of 7525 Old 01-27-2016, 07:10 PM
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Is your Netflix app working on your sets? Mine hasn't worked since 4 months (I think)... I have a TC-P50S60.
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post #7523 of 7525 Old 01-27-2016, 09:16 PM
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Is your Netflix app working on your sets? Mine hasn't worked since 4 months (I think)... I have a TC-P50S60.
Yep. Like a charm.


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post #7524 of 7525 Old 01-29-2016, 03:32 PM
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Is your Netflix app working on your sets? Mine hasn't worked since 4 months (I think)... I have a TC-P50S60.

Like a year ago someone else also had a netflix problem. You'll have to search this thread for keywords and sift though them; I think the solution was posted.

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post #7525 of 7525 Old Today, 10:48 PM
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So I went out and got a colorimeter, the i1 Display Pro. I have a lot of questions with the optimal setup. I've already gotten great results on my IPS monitor.

I was wondering if it's ideal to use 1080p pixel direct(4:4:4) and/or 255 color range with the TCP50S60? Is 10/12-bit color (deep color?) supported? Is RGB full preferable to any of the Ycbcr color formats in Nvidia CP? I'll be using the TV as a PC monitor for PC games and movies mainly. Also are you supposed to measure with the device from 10+ inches away or right on the display?

So down to the calibration, I'm using DisplayCal 3.1

Here's what I'm aiming for right now:
Pre calibration wb high adjustments for balancing the color temp
Gamma TV setting: 2.4
Target gamma: bt 1886
Color space: RGB
Color range: 255
Color temp: D65 target (warm 2 on tv as baseline)
Mode: Custom
Target lumens: 120
Actual lumens: 36-124?
1080p pixel direct: enabled

That's all I can think of now. Will update this later if need be.
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