Official Panasonic S60 Series Discussion Thread - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mphfrom77 View Post

I thought the AR filter was the same on the S64 as it was on the ST60. Is it not?

makes sense, the s64 has the ar filter which would lose some light I'd think. My S60 has no filter whatsoever, it's a total mirror. Still trying to decide if I can get used to it or not. I have 14 days left to decide.
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post #992 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Moonchilde View Post

60 fps motion resolution, what do you mean you notice a drop? Does it tend to blur a bit during fast horizontal panning? Is that what happens?
Exactly what I mean. smile.gif There's no "blur", per-se, because the phosphors aren't trailing, but there is a slight loss in resolution when panning fast. Keep in mind, I'm sitting about 4 feet away from the 60-inch screen when gaming, so I'm prone to catch onto things that may not matter to someone who games more casually.
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Originally Posted by sawfish View Post

That's an inconsistent statement. I've had one S60 and two ST60s in my house, and they all buzzed similarly. All were easily audible with CATS off and contrast above 50 from 10 feet while watching high APL content like the typical Family Guy living room scene. Background music has to be more prominent than is typical in such scenes to drown it out, or dialogue has to be continuous, which it never really is.
I noted the same thing in an earlier post. I think it's got something to do with the bezel, particularly the chrome trim. Pressing on it, particularly at the corners, makes similar noises to the popping sounds the set makes all the time it's on and for an hour or two after it's off. Tightening screws both internal and external doesn't help. (Tightening internal screws also doesn't help the buzzing for either S60 or ST60.) This was a major reason I returned the S60 for another ST60. Neither of the two ST60s I've had made the popping sounds the S60 made. Moreover, pressing on the ST60 bezel doesn't cause any noise. The only things I found the S60 improves on the ST60 is in the input lag and the operation of the menus; both ST60 samples were prone to doubling up remote button presses, while the S60 doesn't suffer from this. The reason I tried an S60 was the hope it would have less rainbow effect, as was said about the U50; well, it's just as bad as the ST60. The buzzing wasn't improved, either. So I'm back to the ST60 and giving it a couple more weeks to see if I can live with the RBE and buzzing. I really can't see going back to LCD!
Interesting. Towards your first point, you must be listening to your shows with a pretty low volume, or you truly have bad luck with getting buzzing sets. Mine is nowhere near that bad (even watched an episode of Family Guy last night).
Per the popping, pressing the chrome bezel only makes a different kind of pop. The one I'm hearing is reverberating more with the back of the TV.
Finally, if RBE is bothering you that much, you may have no choice but to go back to LED/LCD. Local-dimming LED TVs have great picture (at least, better than edge-lit ones), so you may want to check some of those out?

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Originally Posted by Leon! View Post

Wait what are the pops, visual or audible?
Audible.

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Originally Posted by MountainMichael View Post

El Matadurr, were you using fairchild99's calibration? Thanks for the detailed review. I believe that will help me set some realistic expectations. I haven't noticed the screen popping noises nor any buzz at all on the 55ST60 yet. Suspect it is more common on larger models? I guess I'll find out. ST60 allegedly goes back Monday. 65PS64 supposedly arrives on Tuesday. I hope I'm not disappointed by some big drop in PQ, but suspect the larger screen will compensate somewhat.
I was actually using CNET's settings with 1080p pixel direct turned on. I'm waiting on either D-Nice's settings or Fairchilde's new settings with his new serious calibrator. smile.gif

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Originally Posted by rvanderwerf View Post

makes sense, the s64 has the ar filter which would lose some light I'd think. My S60 has no filter whatsoever, it's a total mirror. Still trying to decide if I can get used to it or not. I have 14 days left to decide.
I doubt the reflections are something you can "get used to". You may have to either go with a step-up model, or figure out a way to control your room's lighting. Semi-thick curtains can be had for pretty cheap---at least something that will block out direct light.
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post #993 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by El Matadurr View Post

I was actually using CNET's settings with 1080p pixel direct turned on. I'm waiting on either D-Nice's settings or Fairchilde's new settings with his new serious calibrator. smile.gif I doubt the reflections are something you can "get used to". You may have to either go with a step-up model, or figure out a way to control your room's lighting. Semi-thick curtains can be had for pretty cheap---at least something that will block out direct light.

I updated mine already with my spectrometer. It's in my sig for the link. I will of course tweak around with it some more. Gonna try later to do a calibration with the non-APL AVS HD 709 window patterns and 100% amp/saturation color patterns while in cinema. (I think that's what D-nice ends up using with his signal generator) Also want to see what kind of calibration I can get with a 2.6 gamma which will produce around 2.4 gamma. I think custom just produces incorrect color decoding.

Cnet's are calibrated for a brighter room. They are using 2.2 gamma which in actuality will measure lower (aka brighter) so there's that.

Edit: I just tested a 100 IRE full field pattern, and it gets around 9.8-9.9 ftl This is calibrated at 80 contrast. For reference, a 100 IRE window pattern gets me around 30-31 ftl.
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post #994 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Matadurr View Post

if RBE is bothering you that much, you may have no choice but to go back to LED/LCD. Local-dimming LED TVs have great picture (at least, better than edge-lit ones), so you may want to check some of those out?

I think Sony's HX950 is the only direct lit local dimming set still being made, and it's very expensive and too big for my location. The 50" ST60 size is as large as I can go. I had a 46" HX850 for a while, but it is edge-lit and does this horrible zone-dimming, where there are 16 dimming zones, 8 on each side, each half the width of the screen. The longer I had the set, the more I noticed these zones lighting up and dimming in lots of material, and brightness fluctuations really drive me nuts. The thing is, all these LED sets rely on dimming to achieve decent blacks and uniformity, and if you turn it off to get rid of the brightness fluctuations, you're back with the crappy black levels, flashlighting, etc. I actually liked my 5 y/o CCFL LCD sets better than the HX850. There's basically no LCD set I want. So, I will continue watching the ST60, and hopefully the RBE will subside, or I will at least learn to filter it out. I love the picture quality, and it would be hard to go back to LCD.
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post #995 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 06:00 PM
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Ok, this will be my last calibration for a while. Going to start to enjoy it now with some movies and TV shows. I have some catching up to do. I went back to calibrating using the AVS HD 709 window patterns with 100% color window patterns. I did a full saturation run so you can see the primaries/secondaries fell in as good as they are going to get for me. Disregard the 0-20 IRE, as spectrometers in general aren't accurate sub 30% gray/30 IRE. As always enjoy, I know I will! tongue.gif
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* Picture Settings (currently using HDMI for Cable HDTV (Optimum iO), and HTPC. The viewing environment is in a dark room and a viewing distance of 5-8 feet (although these settings also work for daytime viewing for me). Calibration was done using a Colormunki Photo (spectrometer) + ColorHCFR fork software and the AVS HD709 window patterns with 100% color window patterns (avg gamma of with avg dE of gray scale of and avg dE of primary/secondary of )
o Picture Mode : Cinema
o Contrast : 80
o Brightness : -3
o Color : 46
o Tint : 0
o Sharpness : 0
o Color Temp : Warm2
o Vivid color : Off
o C.A.T.S. : Off
o Video NR : Off
o MPEG NR : Off

* Pro Settings
o Panel brightness : Mid
o AGC : 0
o Black extension : 0
o Color gamut : Normal

* W/B detail adjustment
o W/B high R : -1
o W/B high G : 0
o W/B high B : 0
o W/B low R : 9
o W/B low G : 0
o W/B low B : -3

* Color detail adjustment
o Red Hue : -5
o Red saturation : -28
o Red luminance : -1
o Green Hue : 0
o Green saturation : -18
o Green luminance : -4
o Blue Hue : 0
o Blue saturation : -1
o Blue luminance : 10

* Gamma detail adjustment
o Gamma : 2.4

* Advanced picture
o 1080p pixel direct : Off
o HDMI content type : (Defaults)
o HDMI/DVI RGB range : Standard (16-235)
o Black level : Light

* Screen settings
o Screen format : Full
o Overscan : Off
o H size : Size 1




Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings

Panasonic 50" S60 calibrated settings

HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT150 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60

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post #996 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 06:07 PM
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That looks like a near reference calibration. At this point, I may have to give up 3D (But Shadow of the Colossus looks so amazing with depth...) and pick up a S64. So pissed off frown.gif
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post #997 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 06:21 PM
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Hey fairchild99, did you run the d-nice slides for your panel's first 100 hours? Just curious. I plan to use your settings when I get my S60 and I would like to age my panel as close to yours as I can.
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post #998 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jaleisure View Post

Hey fairchild99, did you run the d-nice slides for your panel's first 100 hours? Just curious. I plan to use your settings when I get my S60 and I would like to age my panel as close to yours as I can.

Nope, I just used it as normal. For the first few hundred hours though, I tried to limit TV channels with annoying station logos or tickers/banners as much as I could and didn't watch too much letter-boxed content. Basically I varied my content and just used it as normal. I even did a bunch of gaming on it (mostly Diablo 3).

Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings

Panasonic 50" S60 calibrated settings

HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT150 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60

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post #999 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

Nope, I just used it as normal. For the first few hundred hours though, I tried to limit TV channels with annoying station logos or tickers/banners as much as I could and didn't watch too much letter-boxed content. Basically I varied my content and just used it as normal. I even did a bunch of gaming on it (mostly Diablo 3).
thanks
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post #1000 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

Edit: I just tested a 100 IRE full field pattern, and it gets around 9.8-9.9 ftl This is calibrated at 80 contrast. For reference, a 100 IRE window pattern gets me around 30-31 ftl.

Thanks.
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post #1001 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 07:01 PM
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fairchild99,

Thanks for the latest calibration! I've saved copies of every cal you've published for the S60.
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post #1002 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 07:02 PM
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Well I finally saw some tv's in the wild today. I got to take a look at a 50S60, 60ST60, and a 65S64. The first two at Best Buy and the S64 at Sam's.

I was impressed by all of them. I forgot to look at the waviness that scooter mentioned. I just thought they all looked great. Didn't get to try the ST60 with 3D content as they apparently had it at a 3D station but with no 3D content hooked up.

I first saw the S60.

Now I am so new to tv's. In the past I just picked one that looked nice and went with a brand that I thought would be relieable. Those were lcd's, btw. This in no way is in depth.

So the S60 just seemed sexy to me. I think that is what the non filtered screen made me think. Just crisp and clear. I really liked it and it seemed to have a ton of controls allowing me change the picture just about any which way I wanted. The Best Buy loop was horrible. I'm going to have to get a demo thumbstick or something.

The ST60 was larger and in a lower secluded section. Again, really liked it. Just seemed really nice.

All in all I was a little uncomfortable at Best Buy and wanted to see if Sam's had the S64, which they did.

First thing I noticed was the larger screen size. I don't know what I was thinking when last fall I was at Sears and thought that 60" and 65" were just too big and that a 55" seemed like the perfect size...because 65" is awesome. It might have to do with Sears' showroom being smaller more intimate. I think at the time the farthest I could stand back and look at the 55" was just a couple feet. Standing back today, imaging how far away I would be at home (maybe 10 feet when reclined...idk) I realized I think I would like a larger size.

I really liked the 65S64 as well. I did play around with the settings slightly, even programmed in fairchild99's settings. It seemed like a solid tv. If I were to guess, I'd say the AR filtered seemed to be like 63% reflective as the 50S60 at Best Buy. But they were in two different settings, so my opinion should not count for much. Just that what scooter said of 90-95% seemed pretty far off imo. I feel like I definitely did notice a difference. Just not sure which one I would like more, if they were both 65 inches side by side in my basement. I am assuming I would like the S60 a little more down there in the dark, but again I could see me moving that upstairs in a couple years where it is brighter (way brighter), so I still lean towards the S64's AR filter. I wouldn't be surprised to see some of the nice VT and euro's GT tech come down to the lower models over the next couple years creating quite a value, not to mention an uproar here on avs, even more so than the S60 and ST60 of this year. So I am kind of leaning towards looking forward to them and moving this one later to the upstairs / wifes tv room.

Again the Sam's loop was horrible. So I just couldn't get much real viewing material. But at one point I played with the color temps during a cooking show and man the ingredients the guy was using, like herbs and vegetables just looked amazing. I mean the picture looked superb in my opinion.

IDK. Like I said, I really liked the S60. But the idea of the AR filter I can't shake. Either one I think will be a solid choice. Today I got to see them in person, and sure enough they looked great. I will probably go back with some demo material, and give them all a little closer inspection.

The wife. She likes the big ones. She thinks we need a 65" and as a matter of fact she thinks it really is not all that big. For reference our biggest tv now is a 37".

I am most likely leaning towards the 65S64, but only over the S60 because it seems a better value for my long term plans. If I wasn't concerned about what was going to come out over the next couple of years, and knew this set was just going to be in my dark basement forever, then I would lean more towards the s60. But then again maybe I am, in the end, leaning more towards a future ST/VT with no lag, and a lower blowout price tag. Fact is I need a tv now that can hold its own with the rest of my entertainment system (along with console gaming), and the S64 seems to fit the bill. If I don't get another tv for 6 years then it will still be great down their I am sure. I'm not sure why it took me this long to consider getting a new tv. I've had my surround sound for a while. Guess I just didn't realize how big of a difference a nicer, larger tv could make.

So from here I will look into the Costco Squaretrade deal. Sam's offers an additional 1 year of warranty if you put it on their credit card, which I think I still have active on my account there. But they don't currently have any 0% programs on electronics which I mentioned to someone that they might. Instead I am looking at doing one of those slickdeals credit card things from Chase in which if you spend $3,000 within the first 3 months you get 50,000 points. 5,000 points get you a $50 Amazon gift card. Was planning on buying a couch and tv so, this way I can do that and get back $500 in Amazon gift cards. IDK, I need to reasearch it all, that deal may not be available anymore. If that doesn't pan out at least Discover card gives back $100 for a purchase over a $1000 right now, and I am pretty sure they add a year of additional warranty.

But at my Sam's the 65S64 was $1448. I understand it is at Costco for $1400. I will have to check into the warranty differences, and Costco membership fees (I am not a member there).

Unfortunately I did not get to see a VT60 or a F8500, but those are out of my price range this time around or at least in the size I am now wanting. I would have liked to have seen one in a 50" size just for comparison purposes, but it didn't happen. Seemed like the only other tv's around were LED's.

Anyways, basically, I came away impressed.
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post #1003 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 07:04 PM
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It seems like all I hear about the S60 is Glare Glare Reflection Glare! Is it really THAT bad? Is it worse than the UT50? That had no filter and I didn't hear nearly as many glare comments about that model last year. I saw a UT50 in a friend's house and I didn't think the glare was that bad.
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post #1004 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainMichael View Post

fairchild99,

Thanks for the latest calibration! I've saved copies of every cal you've published for the S60.

Can you provide a guess as to what changes to start with using this calibration on an 65PS64? I'm thinking brightness/contrast/gamma though I expect changing those will mess with other key elements..

Or maybe it would be better to start with the calibration you made described as having more punch/pop...

mm

I would verify with a pattern that the brightness is actually set right for your set. The AVS HD 709 has a good brightness pattern. I make sure to remove all dithering from 16 and down. Everything else you change will affect everything else. Without a meter + software you can't really verify if the settings are right for you're set.

Just throw up some grayscale ramp patterns, some color step patterns, some actual content, and check if everything looks ok. Particularly skin tones using reference blu-ray's such as Avatar or the Dark Knight.

I wouldn't use the custom settings, I have a hunch it's color decoding is off. Cinema seems to be where it's at from my experience. Again, don't know how everything will look on a 65" S64 since the size and AR coating might affect things some.
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post #1005 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

I would verify with a pattern that the brightness is actually set right for your set. The AVS HD 709 has a good brightness pattern. I make sure to remove all dithering from 16 and down. Everything else you change will affect everything else. Without a meter + software you can't really verify if the settings are right for you're set.

Just throw up some grayscale ramp patterns, some color step patterns, some actual content, and check if everything looks ok. Particularly skin tones using reference blu-ray's such as Avatar or the Dark Knight.

I wouldn't use the custom settings, I have a hunch it's color decoding is off. Cinema seems to be where it's at from my experience. Again, don't know how everything will look on a 65" S64 since the size and AR coating might affect things some.

Thank you. Much appreciated
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post #1006 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mphfrom77 View Post

The wife. She likes the big ones. She thinks we need a 65" and as a matter of fact she thinks it really is not all that big. For reference our biggest tv now is a 37".

IMO, you should not go smaller than 65" at 10'.
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post #1007 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sawfish View Post

I think Sony's HX950 is the only direct lit local dimming set still being made, and it's very expensive and too big for my location. The 50" ST60 size is as large as I can go. I had a 46" HX850 for a while, but it is edge-lit and does this horrible zone-dimming, where there are 16 dimming zones, 8 on each side, each half the width of the screen. The longer I had the set, the more I noticed these zones lighting up and dimming in lots of material, and brightness fluctuations really drive me nuts. The thing is, all these LED sets rely on dimming to achieve decent blacks and uniformity, and if you turn it off to get rid of the brightness fluctuations, you're back with the crappy black levels, flashlighting, etc. I actually liked my 5 y/o CCFL LCD sets better than the HX850. There's basically no LCD set I want. So, I will continue watching the ST60, and hopefully the RBE will subside, or I will at least learn to filter it out. I love the picture quality, and it would be hard to go back to LCD.
Ah, well that's a shame. I hadn't really kept up with the other technologies as much as I needed to after I went full plasma. I thought local-dimming TVs were still quite prevalent (and they didn't have any more fluctuating problems...).

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Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

Ok, this will be my last calibration for a while. Going to start to enjoy it now with some movies and TV shows. I have some catching up to do. I went back to calibrating using the AVS HD 709 window patterns with 100% color window patterns. I did a full saturation run so you can see the primaries/secondaries fell in as good as they are going to get for me. Disregard the 0-20 IRE, as spectrometers in general aren't accurate sub 30% gray/30 IRE. As always enjoy, I know I will! tongue.gif
Plugging it in now. Will use it for a while. Though I see you didn't do the D-Nice calibration method, I'm sure you took good care of your first 100 hours. smile.gif Quick question, your ordering of white balance high and low B seems to be backwards compared to how it is laid out in the menu. Am I correct?

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Originally Posted by jaleisure View Post

It seems like all I hear about the S60 is Glare Glare Reflection Glare! Is it really THAT bad? Is it worse than the UT50? That had no filter and I didn't hear nearly as many glare comments about that model last year. I saw a UT50 in a friend's house and I didn't think the glare was that bad.
Let me put it this way: I would never watch the TV with ambient light in the room if I could control it. That said, it's not unwatchable when the lights come on, but the PQ takes a noticeable hit (depending on the amount of light).
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post #1008 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 07:56 PM
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Oh, that's just a typo, I'll fix it. The sequence is correct, just my labeling was wrong. It'll stay like that in the picture, since i'm not going to re-upload again ;-) I just copy and paste the template, will have to make sure to correct it everywhere now.

Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings

Panasonic 50" S60 calibrated settings

HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT150 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60

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post #1009 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 10:19 PM
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Am I the only one bugged by the banding in the iron man/audi ads and any other similar video? I dont recall seeing this in my d6500 sammy upstairs in the 2yrs i've had it
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post #1010 of 7067 Old 04-27-2013, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mphfrom77 View Post


The wife. She likes the big ones.

Must. Not. Make. Comment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mphfrom77 View Post

She thinks we need a 65" and as a matter of fact she thinks it really is not all that big. For reference our biggest tv now is a 37".

I am most likely leaning towards the 65S64, but only over the S60 because it seems a better value for my long term plans. If I wasn't concerned about what was going to come out over the next couple of years, and knew this set was just going to be in my dark basement forever, then I would lean more towards the s60. But then again maybe I am, in the end, leaning more towards a future ST/VT with no lag, and a lower blowout price tag. Fact is I need a tv now that can hold its own with the rest of my entertainment system (along with console gaming), and the S64 seems to fit the bill. If I don't get another tv for 6 years then it will still be great down their I am sure. I'm not sure why it took me this long to consider getting a new tv. I've had my surround sound for a while. Guess I just didn't realize how big of a difference a nicer, larger tv could make.

So from here I will look into the Costco Squaretrade deal. Sam's offers an additional 1 year of warranty if you put it on their credit card, which I think I still have active on my account there. But they don't currently have any 0% programs on electronics which I mentioned to someone that they might. Instead I am looking at doing one of those slickdeals credit card things from Chase in which if you spend $3,000 within the first 3 months you get 50,000 points. 5,000 points get you a $50 Amazon gift card. Was planning on buying a couch and tv so, this way I can do that and get back $500 in Amazon gift cards. IDK, I need to reasearch it all, that deal may not be available anymore. If that doesn't pan out at least Discover card gives back $100 for a purchase over a $1000 right now, and I am pretty sure they add a year of additional warranty.

But at my Sam's the 65S64 was $1448. I understand it is at Costco for $1400. I will have to check into the warranty differences, and Costco membership fees (I am not a member there).

.

Costco for $1399 + $99 gives you the 65S64 with a 5 year warranty. Plus 1% cash back if you use your Amex card. I don't think Sam's comes within a hundred bucks of touching that package deal.

My room is pretty brightly window-lit and the S64 looks awesome.
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post #1011 of 7067 Old 04-28-2013, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jaleisure View Post

It seems like all I hear about the S60 is Glare Glare Reflection Glare! Is it really THAT bad? Is it worse than the UT50? That had no filter and I didn't hear nearly as many glare comments about that model last year. I saw a UT50 in a friend's house and I didn't think the glare was that bad.
It should be identical or near identical to the UT50 in terms of reflectiveness.

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post #1012 of 7067 Old 04-28-2013, 01:43 AM
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So, as someone who usually preaches common sense with viewing content with plasmas to prevent IR and burn-in, I'd think that I wouldn't run into the problem. As I even mentioned in my brief review, the S60 seems more prone to IR than I thought it would be. I went on a 5-hour stint of Bioshock: Infinite (the final act of the game just hooked me in, had to finish it in one sitting...) and found---only half-surprisingly---that the health/tonic/ammo hud bars in the upper left/bottom left/bottom right side (respectively) are all leaving behind a false image.

I've switched the TV over to full-screen content for an hour. Not much change. Have been running the slides (at calibration, not prep settings) for a couple hours. Maybe marginally better. I haven't used the scrolling white bar yet, though I doubt it will do anything different. Since I've never run into this problem this bad before, I have to ask: how does one determine if a panel is only suffering from retention (temporary) or burn-in (permanent)? Any more methods to try to get rid of it to find out?

And yes, a couple guys on here that know me from HDJ can feel free to smack me in the back of my head for my own stupidity.
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post #1013 of 7067 Old 04-28-2013, 01:54 AM
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That's ok. Within my first 100 hours I went about 14 hours in 2 days with Darksiders 2. Had the Right Trigger UI button graphic stuck on my screen. It didn't go away for weeks, however it was barely noticeable. What got rid of it was a DVD someone loaded up here somewhere, which I can't find at the moment, run for a few hours. If you would like, I could send the VOB file to you, which you only need put on a root of a USB stick and then run from the media tools.
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post #1014 of 7067 Old 04-28-2013, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Moonchilde View Post

That's ok. Within my first 100 hours I went about 14 hours in 2 days with Darksiders 2. Had the Right Trigger UI button graphic stuck on my screen. It didn't go away for weeks, however it was barely noticeable. What got rid of it was a DVD someone loaded up here somewhere, which I can't find at the moment, run for a few hours. If you would like, I could send the VOB file to you, which you only need put on a root of a USB stick and then run from the media tools.
Much appreciated. Is it something like a screen "static" loop?
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post #1015 of 7067 Old 04-28-2013, 10:08 AM
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I watched a few scenes from Avatar last night on my TC-65PS64 and it blew my mind. I'm going off of memory here... I'll clarify after testing it tonight... but I had my PS3 24p output setting on Auto, and when I pressed info on my TV it said 1080p/24... as far as motion went, I was very, very impressed. I noticed very little judder, and when I did, it looked natural. I'm going to turn the 24p output setting to Off later in my PS3 and press info on the TV remote, and I'm assuming it'll read 1080p/60 or whatever... I'll try to compare the judder differences of letting the PS3 apply the 3:2 pulldown (in 24p Off in PS3) vs the TV applying the 3:2 pulldown (in 24p mode Auto/On in ps3). I'm guessing I'll either not be able to tell the difference, or if anything letting the TV apply the pulldown would be smoother, as the TV is a 2013 model and the PS3 is like 4-5 years old... one could only assume a newer device, and particularly the display, would be more effective at this. And lastly on this post, I would like to note that the the motion seems slightly better than my old 60ST30. I was a bit concerned with the whole "700 lines of moving resolution" vs the "800 lines of moving resolution" on my old set, but I swear it looks better on the new TV.
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post #1016 of 7067 Old 04-28-2013, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Matadurr View Post

So, as someone who usually preaches common sense with viewing content with plasmas to prevent IR and burn-in, I'd think that I wouldn't run into the problem. As I even mentioned in my brief review, the S60 seems more prone to IR than I thought it would be. I went on a 5-hour stint of Bioshock: Infinite (the final act of the game just hooked me in, had to finish it in one sitting...) and found---only half-surprisingly---that the health/tonic/ammo hud bars in the upper left/bottom left/bottom right side (respectively) are all leaving behind a false image.

I've switched the TV over to full-screen content for an hour. Not much change. Have been running the slides (at calibration, not prep settings) for a couple hours. Maybe marginally better. I haven't used the scrolling white bar yet, though I doubt it will do anything different. Since I've never run into this problem this bad before, I have to ask: how does one determine if a panel is only suffering from retention (temporary) or burn-in (permanent)? Any more methods to try to get rid of it to find out?

And yes, a couple guys on here that know me from HDJ can feel free to smack me in the back of my head for my own stupidity.
You must have turned off the pixel orbiter. I have mine on and have no signs or symptoms of ir. Even after long sessions of gaming or googling.

Panasonic Plasma Fan TC-P65ZT60 TC-P65S1 TC-P65S60 TC-60PU54-2 TC-P50U50-2 2 pioneer elite Vsx 42's XBOX 360 PS3 Verizon Fios QIP 7232 2
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post #1017 of 7067 Old 04-28-2013, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by OCMike80 View Post

You must have turned off the pixel orbiter. I have mine on and have no signs or symptoms of ir. Even after long sessions of gaming or googling.

OK, I'm an idiot; I'm guessing that Panasonic has another name for the pixel orbiter...? How do I turn it on or off?
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post #1018 of 7067 Old 04-28-2013, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by moshock View Post

I watched a few scenes from Avatar last night on my TC-65PS64 and it blew my mind. I'm going off of memory here... I'll clarify after testing it tonight... but I had my PS3 24p output setting on Auto, and when I pressed info on my TV it said 1080p/24... as far as motion went, I was very, very impressed. I noticed very little judder, and when I did, it looked natural. I'm going to turn the 24p output setting to Off later in my PS3 and press info on the TV remote, and I'm assuming it'll read 1080p/60 or whatever... I'll try to compare the judder differences of letting the PS3 apply the 3:2 pulldown (in 24p Off in PS3) vs the TV applying the 3:2 pulldown (in 24p mode Auto/On in ps3). I'm guessing I'll either not be able to tell the difference, or if anything letting the TV apply the pulldown would be smoother, as the TV is a 2013 model and the PS3 is like 4-5 years old... one could only assume a newer device, and particularly the display, would be more effective at this. And lastly on this post, I would like to note that the the motion seems slightly better than my old 60ST30. I was a bit concerned with the whole "700 lines of moving resolution" vs the "800 lines of moving resolution" on my old set, but I swear it looks better on the new TV.
Since you're outputting in 24p, have you given 48hz a try yet? You may be pleasantly surprised as I was.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OCMike80 View Post

You must have turned off the pixel orbiter. I have mine on and have no signs or symptoms of ir. Even after long sessions of gaming or googling.
See that's where I'm confused. With 1080p pixel direct on and overscan set to off, turning on the pixel orbiter seems to do literally nothing. I think I have to turn 1080p direct off and/or set it to overscan before the TV will take those few lines from the sides of the screen to allow it to shift.
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post #1019 of 7067 Old 04-28-2013, 12:16 PM
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Ok stopped at BB and took a picture of the S60 vs a matte Samsung LED below it so you guys could see the difference in the screens. The S60 is way more mirror like and to be fair so were most of the glossy screened LED tvs and the other plasma's they had out. The only difference on the higher end plasma's (Samsung and Panasonics) was during a full black screen the reflection wasn't as clear and more muted. I do think however the S60 without the AR coating looks sharper and colors seem to pop more but hell hard to tell with BB feeds!?!?
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post #1020 of 7067 Old 04-28-2013, 02:33 PM
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New 65PS64 - In Love.

I am running slides with a few short sessions of watching random things.

After the "turns grey and looks like crap when in a lit room" reports that I was reading I was pretty concerned. I have this thing in a room with 6 windows and it is performing great! The AR filter is actually very effective and I still see nice deep blacks. I haven't even had a chance to view in a dark room yet. It may just be that my DLP was that bad after all these years but I can't stop staring at it once I start some content. Once calibrated or at least set with Fairchild or D-Nice or anything other than stock it should be absolutely amazing.

That brings me to how to find one for yourself at a Costco. I know several of you are looking. Here is the process I used to get one from the first (and likely only for some time) shipment in my area:
  • Call your nearest Costco and choose the option to reach the Administrative staff
  • Ask if they can check stock on a product you are looking for
  • Give them item #865640 (65" PS64)
  • If they do not have any ask them to check if they have any on order
  • Here is the key - If they say no ask them to check their Depot. Once they get into that screen they should be able to see all inventory available in the region and provide you with details on where it has gone, is headed or is on order for.
  • Call the nearest store that has or will be getting inventory - In my case that was one store in the whole state, 100 miles away (Admin staff again)
  • Confirm in-stock or on-order status with ETA
  • Get there and buy it! Don't forget your 5 year warranty (Should hold me until OLED 4K or 8K is affordable)

Hope that helps some of you. This is not a VT/ZT and probably won't satisfy the most critical videophiles among us, but it a beautiful display and a ridiculously good value. One pic of the final install (forgive the camera quality).

MD

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