Official Panasonic S60 Series Discussion Thread - Page 58 - AVS Forum
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post #1711 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

As already stated you'll only get 720p and/or 1080i out of a cable box or DVR as those are the only two broadcast standards for HD. Pressing the INFO key on the Panny remote simply tells you what kind of signal the TV is getting from your DVR.

That said, i've found that setting my cable DVR and HD Tivo output format settings to output everything at 1080i Fixed gives a crisper and more detailed HD image compared to setting it at 720p fixed or native, especially on the 720p channels. This holds true on all of my various HD TVs and those of my friends. Try it for yourself and see if you notice it.
Wow that's a huge jump! Your 65" screen is a whopping 266% larger than your 34" screen.

Your 34 incher's Total viewing area is 494.32 sq inches
Your 65 incher's Total viewing area is 1808.73 sq inches

Screen Size Calculator
http://www.cavecreations.com/tv2.cgi

I have my cable box set to output 1080i. I don't see any setting for fixed or not, just 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i. I've always used 1080i, even on my old 1080i CRT, so I wouldn't know what setting to 720p looks like, but it's nice to know there is no reason to use that setting. The Panny INFO key is handy to verify whether I'm actually on an HD or SD channel, which my eyes can usually tell - this set really shows the difference between SD and HD.

Yes, bigger is definitely better, and there is significant difference between 65" and the 60" that I originally started off shopping for to replace my 34". A 60" is "only" slightly more than 2.5x (2.62x) as big, while the 65" is more than 3.5x (3.65x) as big! So my WAG of 3-4x was right on. Actually my previous jump from a 20" to a 34" was nearly as big at 3.4x, although a 34" is technically only a 27" when considering 4:3 content, which would only be 1.8x. Hopefully 10 years from now (which is about the lifetime of my TVs) they will make 100" 4k plasmas, and I'll still be able to get a nice 2.36x increase plus 4x resolution. biggrin.gif Thanks for the link Randy - let me get my geek on. rolleyes.gif The nice thing is I paid $500 less for my 65" than my 34". cool.gif
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post #1712 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by HDTimeShifter View Post

...The pixel orbiter setting is confusing. It only has options for On or Auto, no Off. I looked up my printed version of the eManual, and it does not tell the difference between On and Auto. I'll have to search through this thread, but can anyone save me the trouble and tell me what each means?

Pixel orbiter set to "Auto" is OFF - at least with current firmware.

To others re: PQ - Below is lengthy. Synopsis: I definitely like my 65PS64 better than my 55ST60 and for good reason. The main diff in PQ I saw: My ST60 had red push I couldn't get rid of trying everything I read in here without trading it for green push. Not saying a pro couldn't get rid of the red push or at least reduce it some. My S64 doesn't have red push. If that handles it for ya', save yourself some time and scroll out.

More details: I haven't seen an S60 so I can't comment on that model. I didn't get to see my 55ST60 at the same time as my 65PS64 due to logistics and space constraints - so no direct comparison IRT.

Also, as stated before, I think some difference is measurable based on what I've read - or maybe even visible to some knowledgeable cinemaphiles. Though I would like to see which most experts would like in direct comparision; fc99's settings on the S64; D-Nice's settings on the ST60... mask off the bezels to prevent that "tell"... I suppose most COULD spot the ST60 due to the all too common red push - though I doubt that would make them like it better. tongue.gif ST60ers hold the flames, please. It's a super nice panel too and I know it.

With the admitted caveat that there were a few days delay between viewing the 2: My personal opinion & for my usage: I've definitely gained some things important to me and lost only 3D. I figured I'd only use 3D a few times a year, but who knows. Not gonna re-hash details about the problems I had with 96hz and how I handled the 24p workaround again.

fc99's settings are working extremely well on my S64, so I credit that with a lot of why I'm so happy with it. Also, I admit that my opinion is affected because I lucked out getting a plasma with: No dead pixels, no popping, no buzz that I can hear and no shipping damage whatsoever.

Had my ST60 not started with intermittent problems and had I hired a pro calibration, I think then I might have a different opinion of PQ comparison. But then again, maybe NOT.

During the days it took for the swap, I was frequently apprehensive thinking I was going to have regrets going to a "lower" model line - maybe even setting myself up for that -shoulda' been a self-fulfilling prophecy, etc..?

I'm surprised, but I have no regrets at all. smile.gif So glad I took the chance. biggrin.gif I'm early retired (since 2004) and have more time than anything else. As such, I'm a real cheapskate and pinch every penny so I'm obsessed with max bang for the buck on every purchase. With WAY more time than money, if I didn't truly like the S64 better, I would absolutely return it and get something else. Especially due to the following absolutely unnecessary bad customer relations...

Why it maybe should have gone sour?:

Sam's reps and supervisors were rude smart asses eek.gif regarding refusing to match their own price drop - so at some times I thought it would serve them right to get the panel back and let the sale go anywhere else. It's one thing to say "no", it's quite another to gloat and act cute about it. IOW, some of them were trying to provoke. It seemed to anger one woman that she just couldn't get under my skin. Small win there, but a win nonetheless.

People here say many Sam's employees hate their jobs with a passion. Noted. Still, that sort of customer handling is just wrong.

My point is: Even during the recurring attempted provocations from Sam's hiring mistakes, I just couldn't bring myself to return the panel based on principle - though principle almost always takes precedence with me. I just like the panel and PQ too much. I had decided to cancel my membership but keep the panel - but just about then, I was transferred to a super nice gal in "member cancellations" (the first friendly and genuine rep or supervisor I'd spoken with) who immediately made things right. So I ended up keeping the panel and the membership. Unequivocally on the former, provisionally on the latter... cool.gif

Secondary moral of the story: Don't buy from Sam's. If you do, the only real customer service available is in "member cancellations". rolleyes.gif

Had I not fallen head over heels for the 65PS64, 60ST60 was next on my short list. I was skeptical enough before receiving my S64, I figured I'd be doing just that by now. But no.

I think I'll just link this post in the future when a non-owner of the S64 says it isn't as great as the other 2 (S60 and ST60).

To add to that purpose, let's add again: D-Nice and other pro's in the shootout agree that an AR filter does NOT detract from PQ AT ALL. That notion is a MYTH.
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post #1713 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 02:57 PM
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Can someone touch upon the S60/S64's "lower lines of motion resolution"? Or possibly link to somewhere talking about it? It's confusing to me. If a TV has a 1920x1080 pixel resolution, what does someone mean when they say that it has 700 lines of motion resolution?

Or maybe a better question is - if motion looks fine on my parents' 6 year old plasma (at least to me...something like Rayman Origins seems to scroll very smoothly with no noticeable blur), is this something I'd even need to concern myself with? This isn't something out of the ordinary for a plasma in this price range right?
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post #1714 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PogueSquadron View Post

Can someone touch upon the S60/S64's "lower lines of motion resolution"? Or possibly link to somewhere talking about it? It's confusing to me. If a TV has a 1920x1080 pixel resolution, what does someone mean when they say that it has 700 lines of motion resolution?

Or maybe a better question is - if motion looks fine on my parents' 6 year old plasma (at least to me...something like Rayman Origins seems to scroll very smoothly with no noticeable blur), is this something I'd even need to concern myself with? This isn't something out of the ordinary for a plasma in this price range right?

I could be very wrong, but I thought that was in reference to 3D use only.
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post #1715 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 03:30 PM
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I just posted an S64 owner's poll thread over here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1474301/panasonic-tc-65ps64-and-tc-50ps64-owners-poll

S64 owners: Please vote.

Thank you,

Micke
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post #1716 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PogueSquadron View Post

Can someone touch upon the S60/S64's "lower lines of motion resolution"? Or possibly link to somewhere talking about it? It's confusing to me. If a TV has a 1920x1080 pixel resolution, what does someone mean when they say that it has 700 lines of motion resolution?

If you want to know how it is tested by CNET, that is discussed here and here.

Quote:
Or maybe a better question is - if motion looks fine on my parents' 6 year old plasma (at least to me...something like Rayman Origins seems to scroll very smoothly with no noticeable blur), is this something I'd even need to concern myself with?

No. Personally, I consider motion resolution a non-issue with plasma TVs. It's a concern with LCDs, but motion resolution will be fine on any plasma you buy.
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post #1717 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

i've found that setting my cable DVR and HD Tivo output format settings to output everything at 1080i Fixed gives a crisper and more detailed HD image compared to setting it at 720p fixed or native, especially on the 720p channels. This holds true on all of my various HD TVs and those of my friends. Try it for yourself and see if you notice it.
That really depends on the quality of the scaler in the signal source vs the quality of the scaler in the TV. Most of my calibration customers have Time Warner boxes (Cisco or Scientific Atlanta) and several customers have seen significant quality improvements when NATIVE is used vs outputting 10800i on 720p sources.

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post #1718 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 07:24 PM
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What is everyone's opinion on the 99$ extended warranty from Costco? I have about 2 weeks left to purchase it on my S64, and I am still undecided. More than likely I wouldn't imagine having to use it, but it is always nice to have that extra peace of mind.
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post #1719 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bamaboy1234 View Post

What is everyone's opinion on the 99$ extended warranty from Costco? I have about 2 weeks left to purchase it on my S64, and I am still undecided. More than likely I wouldn't imagine having to use it, but it is always nice to have that extra peace of mind.

Opinions will vary. My take: From various sources, modern flat panels have too many failures to chance it. My 55ST60 may or may not have failed from rough handling. But from reading too many stories of "fail", my suggestion is: Buy it.

Furthermore, for $99, CostCo is killing everyone else for that warranty.

However, being that I've just been through a panel failure, it is possible that I'm over-reacting.

"...ya' makes yer bets and ya' takes yer chances..."

I bought the frickin' extended warranty for my S64 for whatever that's worth.

mm
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post #1720 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaboy1234 View Post

What is everyone's opinion on the 99$ extended warranty from Costco? I have about 2 weeks left to purchase it on my S64, and I am still undecided. More than likely I wouldn't imagine having to use it, but it is always nice to have that extra peace of mind.
How long? If it is 5 years, I would jump on it. 2 years, not so sure.

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post #1721 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 08:22 PM
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How long? If it is 5 years, I would jump on it. 2 years, not so sure.

If you buy the Tv from Costco it is 5 years.

1yr Factory warranty + 1 yr Costco extended + 3 year Square Trade

It is only 4 if you buy it from someone else(Sams Club).
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post #1722 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bamaboy1234 View Post

If you buy the Tv from Costco it is 5 years.

1yr Factory warranty + 1 yr Costco extended + 3 year Square Trade

It is only 4 if you buy it from someone else(Sams Club).

Wicked good deal, IMO.
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post #1723 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by joedog000 View Post

The display of 24fps content is my #1 hesitation in purchasing an S64 - I'm an avid movie watcher and currently spoiled by my DLP TV, which can play 24fps content no problem.

I'll have to set my blu-ray to output 60fps and see if it bothers me on my current set before I make a purchase.

Still, it's hard to justify an approximately $1000 difference between a ST60 and a S64 if film cadence my only major concern between the two sets (well dithering is too, but I don't think I'd notice it in real world content too much).
If you don't mind a bit of flicker, 48hz mode looks fine on the S60. Flicker is noticeably less than on the ST30 (just took a look at my old set with the same scenes in Avatar).

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Thanks for all the help everyone. Have we seen any official input lag tests on this thing? I'm reading everything from "it hardly has any lag" to "I hear it's pushing around 4 frames of lag". Has anyone done any actual tests beyond just an initial impression?
You're confusing the S60 for the lag-prone ST60. S60 has essentially no lag.

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I was wondering if the S30 and S60 both shared similarities with each other, or is it in name only? I was thinkin maybe that had something to do with why they both seem to have good input lag. Do the guts in the TV have anything in common?
In name only. They're both plasmas, but are separated by two years (S30, U50, S60). The S60 is a much better panel.

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Originally Posted by bamaboy1234 View Post

What is everyone's opinion on the 99$ extended warranty from Costco? I have about 2 weeks left to purchase it on my S64, and I am still undecided. More than likely I wouldn't imagine having to use it, but it is always nice to have that extra peace of mind.
If you buy it from Costco, for the 5-year warranty, it's a pretty good $20/year investment.
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post #1724 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 09:14 PM
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I usually play 24p content, so which is the better TV for me? S60 or ST60?
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post #1725 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 10:06 PM
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I usually play 24p content, so which is the better TV for me? S60 or ST60?
The ST60 is the better display if you don't care about input lag. It will also process 24p content better than the S60.

It's up to you to decide if the ST60 is worth the extra cash. Honestly though, 99% of people will never notice any issues with the S60s processing of 24p content.
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post #1726 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 11:13 PM
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The ST60 is the better display if you don't care about input lag. It will also process 24p content better than the S60.

It's up to you to decide if the ST60 is worth the extra cash. Honestly though, 99% of people will never notice any issues with the S60s processing of 24p content.

I have an AVR that can output the signal to 1080p/24hz or 1080p/60hz... is the job converting 24hz to 60hz better done by AVR or the TV?
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post #1727 of 7282 Old 05-25-2013, 11:15 PM
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I usually play 24p content, so which is the better TV for me? S60 or ST60?

I've been thinking about this issue myself as I prepare to make a purchase, so please someone correct me if I am wrong but with a modern blu-ray player - it won't matter.

ST60 = can properly display 24fps content, S60=can not properly display 24fps content.

However...even though the S60 can't process 24fps content, your blu-ray player probably can. Set the blu-ray player to send a 60fps (60hz) signal to the S60. The blu-ray player is doing the work that the S60 can't do. Problem solved.

Similar issue with decoding DTS or Dolby Digital sound - either your blu-ray player or your AVR can decode the sound. Doesn't matter which one does it, you'll get the same sonic experience.
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post #1728 of 7282 Old 05-26-2013, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by joedog000 View Post

I've been thinking about this issue myself as I prepare to make a purchase, so please someone correct me if I am wrong but with a modern blu-ray player - it won't matter.

ST60 = can properly display 24fps content, S60=can not properly display 24fps content.

However...even though the S60 can't process 24fps content, your blu-ray player probably can. Set the blu-ray player to send a 60fps (60hz) signal to the S60. The blu-ray player is doing the work that the S60 can't do. Problem solved.

Similar issue with decoding DTS or Dolby Digital sound - either your blu-ray player or your AVR can decode the sound. Doesn't matter which one does it, you'll get the same sonic experience.

joedog,

I think you're on track. I'd probably put it like this: the ST60's do that conversion exceptionally well whereas the S60/64's are maybe only average. Some blu ray players can handle the conversion better than the S60 variants, some can't.

My "phatso" ps3 seems to handle it nicely for my S64, fwiw.
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post #1729 of 7282 Old 05-26-2013, 05:27 AM
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Even during the recurring attempted provocations from Sam's hiring mistakes, I just couldn't bring myself to return the panel based on principle - though principle almost always takes precedence with me. I just like the panel and PQ too much. I had decided to cancel my membership but keep the panel - but just about then, I was transferred to a super nice gal in "member cancellations" (the first friendly and genuine rep or supervisor I'd spoken with) who immediately made things right. So I ended up keeping the panel and the membership.

Sometimes you have to threaten to cancel to get decent customer service. Phone company for example. But their service retention people still ripped me off by charging me for some special service which they had claimed was free or low cost for a customer of 13 years and I ended up cancelling later anyway - no longer a need for land lines with mobile (regrettably I have to admit to having worked for said company as a consultant before they got bought by Qwest and went to sh*t). The cable company also plays games where you have to call every time a special expires and ask for another special to reduce your rates - but my bill is still too expensive and I'd like to save $100 someday by cancelling all but broadband.

I had my first good night viewing significant content on my 65S64 - actually watched a movie (1080i via cable), and with power saving off, CATS off, pixel orbiter off, vivid off, and in standard mode, the colors seem almost too colorful (unrealistically bright like LCDs). I think I'll try cinema mode next to see if the picture is more realistic there. Also I do notice a bit of red push - maybe setting to Fairchild's calibrations will fix this? I only have one DVD to calibrate, but it is a standard DVD, not Blu-ray - but I might try it later. The other thing is that while the off button would turn off my AVR as well as the TV, yesterday morning when I turned on my TV the rear panel speakers came on and there was no longer any sound through my floor standing speakers. When I went through the menus, I discovered that Viera Link had been turned on and turned it off. However, the next time I turned the TV on, I got no sound at all and after turning everything (TV, AVR, and cable box) off and back on again, I get sound again through my 4 floor standing speakers and the AVR says Digital Dolby (with my old CRT via analog audio outputs, it was either Neo or PLII that I had programmed). Next couple times I turned it on, the sound was ok. Later I fiddled through the menus and turned Viera Link on again and suddenly the sound died and didn't return when I turned Viera Link off again until I power cycled everything again - so I figure I can't use Viera Link for 1-touch off for both the TV and Denon AVR. While listening to the rear panel for sound, I did notice some buzzing while the cable box settings screen was on (white with settings text in black) - but this is only with no audio through my speakers and my head behind the panel with ears right next to the speaker holes. A few other things I don't understand with the TV settings are the format settings - they seem to modify the screen even with HD channels - I thought this setting is only for 4:3 (480 pixel) content. Also even with sound set to 0, the audio surround and AI settings are still active and not greyed out - you'd think they would be disabled with panel speakers disabled and passed through to the AVR - I hope it's not passing simulated surround sound to my AVR - although AI equalizing sound to all channels and equipment would be useful as it seems the auto sound equalization on my Denon lowers the volume too much and requires I crank up the volume much more (the main reason for replacing my old non-HDMI AVR was for this feature [to avoid commercial volume blasting]) more so than just getting full HDMI switching.
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post #1730 of 7282 Old 05-26-2013, 12:22 PM
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...I had my first good night viewing significant content on my 65S64 - actually watched a movie (1080i via cable), and with power saving off, CATS off, pixel orbiter off, vivid off, and in standard mode, the colors seem almost too colorful (unrealistically bright like LCDs). I think I'll try cinema mode next to see if the picture is more realistic there. Also I do notice a bit of red push - maybe setting to Fairchild's calibrations will fix this?...

HDTimeShifter,

Glad to hear you have a favorable impression of the panel so far. smile.gif According to some well respected AVS members, using someone else's settings may or may not yield good or even acceptable results.

Having said that, I've been getting excellent results with fc99's 6th iteration settings. Some feel they are a bit dim, but please try watching them for a half hour and then see if you still think that. For my panel, I believe them to be "the butter zone" for about 80% of my room lighting conditions. Directors use a lot of dimly lit scenes. These are maybe the most impressive to me due to all the detail I'd never seen before. However, when they do a bright scene outdoors or a night scene with a bright flare, these settings show that they can go VERY bright. I found a searchlight in a night scene to be blinding when viewed in my moderately dim nighttime theater lighting.

OTOH, if you have to have brighter, his 7th iteration settings have more pop. I don't think they are still posted but fc99 would probably give 'em to ya'. Or with his permission beforehand, I could pm them to ya' 'cause I save all his tuneups. fc99 said the 7th set were pushing some things a bit too far and causing some minor issues. Even so, I still really like his 7th settings with curtains open and sunshine pouring in.

Regarding red push, I had that pretty badly with my ST60. Howzabout with my S64? At about 67 hours of slides & 60 hours of content with my S64, I gravitated towards the wild assed guess that the slides might be gradually increasing some slight red push. I won't make any recommendations for anyone else, but I chose to follow my instincts and stop slides.

The red push has been decreasing. Here's a maybe more consistent observation than my slides hypothesis: My panel is nearing 300 hours which I believe is where fairchild99's panel was when he worked up his 6th iteration... and guess what? Running 6th iter. that very slight red tinge I was seeing in the one oval grey stepped Amazon Vids screen is almost gone.

To more directly answer your question: Yes, I think you will like fc99's settings a lot. I think the red in the phosphors in S64's may tend to be a bit "hot" early on, but that's just IMHO. No proof to offer. However, look for them to settle down heading towards 300 total hours. fwiw, while I have seen a bit of red with my S64, it is drastically less than with my ST60 & D-Nice settings on that one & after precise 100 hours continuous slides on my former ST60.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but: I don't believe you can cause any harm whatsoever by trying fc99's settings - or anyone's for that matter. The question is whether they will give accurate picture - but no harm at all in trying. I suppose this may not be true if settings were totally whack-a-mole and run for a long time, but that's not what we're talking about here.

YMWV.

edit: Another setup I like with bright room/sunshine: cadett's ST60 settings. Ya' can't use every last setting 'cause our S64's don't have as many fine detail adjustments, but for whatever reason, it's a good setup for my panel. However, some say they see some green push in facial tints with it on their S60 variants.

next edit: With the 2 brighter settings I mentioned: If I fall asleep for 4 or 5 hours with Amazon vids menu static on screen, there will be some IR; well, probably not really IR; more like "image static" for maybe a half hour the next day. With less overly bright settings, I seldom see this at all after nodding off. I don't think it's a big deal either way. Just sayin'. First time I saw this, I kinda' panicked a little and ran pixel flipper. But since then, I've learned it isn't anything to worry about. No need to flip. biggrin.gif

mm
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post #1731 of 7282 Old 05-26-2013, 02:15 PM
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I re-checked my Cinema calibration today. I went into the SM to check my hours, and I was at 702 hrs. I don't know how accurate that count since I use the Sleep Timer feature with the Screen Display Off feature, and I don't know if the SM adds those hours into the total tally. If it doesn't know the difference then I could in fact have many less hours on my set.

Either way, everything was good with my dE's on both my grayscale and colors. I only had to do two total changes to Red in the Color detail adjustments. (Red hue went to 0 and Red saturation went to -13) I was expecting to make a bit more changes but it's good to know the calibration is holding steady. I'll look at it again in a few hundred hours.

I originally had gone in to try to perform a lower light calibration with Low Panel brightness, but trying to get the grayscale stable was more than I could handle at the time. Changing settings were having way too drastic changes on some steps and it was just too finicky. I think the sweet spot for this panel is Mid Panel brightness.

Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings
Panasonic 50" S60 calibrated settings
HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT660 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60
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post #1732 of 7282 Old 05-26-2013, 03:22 PM
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I'm going to try custom mode for at least a day and night before I try anyone's custom settings. I don't think I'll try running slides as it's in the upper 80s all weekend and don't want it on to add any more heat into my house, plus I've been too tired and either falling asleep for an hour or so or just turning it off and going to my bedroom to pass out the last couple of nights (last week was a killer - working 14 hours on Wednesday, and 'til 8 and 7 pm Thursday and Friday). I meant to take photos Friday night, but fell asleep. Yesterday I had it on the last couple of hours before dusk and didn't notice any window blind reflection (don't know if it was cloudy since I keep all my window blinds closed and didn't bother to look outside as I was trying to wolf down dinner before dark to have time to mow the lawn and strip the porch steps stain off). The large maple tree in my west facing backyard has fully grown all it's leaves since 2 weeks ago, so it could be filtering out the horrendous light I was getting from those 3 huge west facing windows plus 2 weeks ago I had the blinds angled downward instead of upward to let warm sunlight in since the weather was still cold. NBC Sports had their annoying station graphic on the lower right even during commercials during the Senna biography 6-8:30 pm, but I didn't see any IR later last night. Fortunately they don't run that graphic during the F1 Monaco GP coverage, which on Speed in the past has been up to 7 hours including all practice, qualifying, and previous race recaps. I was going to take some pictures viewing DVR'd practice Friday night, or last night, but ended up deleting it for qualifying, except qualifying sessions are rainy with bad exposure lighting. (Nobody tell me the results as I haven't finished viewing qualifying and hopefully will take some photos tonight when I watch the race.) Yeah, watching qualifying on a 65" screen is so realistic, that it brings back memories of my trip to Italy and Monaco 2 weeks before the race in 2007 when I snapped some scenic scenes of the harbor, hillsides, and pre-race setup of the stands and signs. I did take some midday 1:30 pm photos the day I had my dryer delivered and S64 put into place, but that's an anomaly as I almost never watch that early in the afternoon, even on weekends (except during Bronco season). I plan on posting those and some good night photos later to show what the 65S64 looks like in a bright room v. nighttime.
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post #1733 of 7282 Old 05-26-2013, 03:24 PM
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fairchild99,

Thank you for keeping us apprised of the ongoing minor tweaks to your settings.

mm
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post #1734 of 7282 Old 05-26-2013, 04:07 PM
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This being my first non-CRT set, I can't really compare to LCD, but with Standard mode and Vivid, CATS, and power saving all off, it certainly is brighter and more vivid and has more pop than my old 34XBR800 CRT. So those fearing it would not be as bright an vivid as a LCD, the S64 certainly is bright enough even with the AR filter and during the day. The only thing is a white screen is not totally white - but that's probably only a problem if you are using for a computer screen. Now, being an audiophile and aspiring videophile, my only concern is with reproduction accuracy - I don't want pop or warmth - just true imaging to the original - otherwise it would be coloration and distortion. Viewing of live material like Formula One in Monaco is very true to reality. The too vivid maybe unreal colors was viewing of Robin Hood: Men in Tights last night, so I don't know if this is due to artistic photography and not real scenery. I can't wait to watch Survivor on this set - some of those shots of scenery are phenomenal.
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HDMI ARC question for the thread:

Ok, so I have my pre-HDMI AVR working fine with optical audio in. So since it ain't broke, naturally I'm going to fix it. rolleyes.gif In a moment of weakness, I bought a Yamaha RX-A820 AVR on sale from Newegg last night. In reading customer feedback about various panel TV's and AVR's, it appears to me that there are fairly frequent problems trying to keep ARC and HDMI control working consistently.

I have a Harmony remote, so I don't have to have ARC or HDMI control... do I? Would I be better off bypassing the ARC and/or HDMI control features and just using simple HDMI in/out?

Don't be too surprised if any of the above is garbled; I'm new to this whole HDMI thing.

Digging for an HDMI 101 thread now..

mm
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post #1736 of 7282 Old 05-26-2013, 05:39 PM
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F1 Monaco GP.
Go Scuderia Ferrari! smile.gif
RIP Ayrton Senna.

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post #1737 of 7282 Old 05-26-2013, 05:54 PM
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HDMI ARC question for the thread:

Ok, so I have my pre-HDMI AVR working fine with optical audio in. So since it ain't broke, naturally I'm going to fix it. rolleyes.gif In a moment of weakness, I bought a Yamaha RX-A820 AVR on sale from Newegg last night. In reading customer feedback about various panel TV's and AVR's, it appears to me that there are fairly frequent problems trying to keep ARC and HDMI control working consistently.

I have a Harmony remote, so I don't have to have ARC or HDMI control... do I? Would I be better off bypassing the ARC and/or HDMI control features and just using simple HDMI in/out?

Don't be too surprised if any of the above is garbled; I'm new to this whole HDMI thing.

Digging for an HDMI 101 thread now..

mm

Posts 17 in the below. Appears it will depend on whether individual TV model, AVR model and Harmony will play well together. I'll probably not use ARC.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463195/arc-or-no-arc-what-do-you-prefer-and-why
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post #1738 of 7282 Old 05-26-2013, 06:01 PM
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Posts 14 and 16 in the below. Appears it will depend on whether individual TV model, AVR model and Harmony will play well together. I'll probably not use ARC or rarely.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463195/arc-or-no-arc-what-do-you-prefer-and-why

I would probably just let the Harmony handle everything. ARC is only used if you want to pass audio back from tuner or internet apps. Viera Link is panasonic's HDMI control name. Just make sure you enable it on the TV if you want to use it.

I just have my harmony turning on the TV and AVR, and switching the AVR to the correct input and leaving the TV on HDMI 2.
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I would probably just let the Harmony handle everything. ARC is only used if you want to pass audio back from tuner or internet apps. Viera Link is panasonic's HDMI control name. Just make sure you enable it on the TV if you want to use it.

I just have my harmony turning on the TV and AVR, and switching the AVR to the correct input and leaving the TV on HDMI 2.

Thanks! Sounds like the plan.
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Originally Posted by MountainMichael View Post

Posts 17 in the below. Appears it will depend on whether individual TV model, AVR model and Harmony will play well together. I'll probably not use ARC.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463195/arc-or-no-arc-what-do-you-prefer-and-why
I have a Harmony 650. Panasonic 60ST50. Yahama RX-V675. I do not use ARC. It is not necessary with the Harmony and using the digital optical out from tv to AVR.
I tried ARC briefly but it was finicky.
Once you get the A820 you will be fine! smile.gif
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